Borodinsky with Chocolate Rye Malt
Lately I have been trying to make a passably authentic Russian Borodinsky Rye. Fortunately Russian bakers are very generous. Eliabel referred my last Borodinsky post [1] to two Russian bread bloggers - Serghei and Masha. They gave her some feedback which she very kindly translated for me. I've tried to incorporate their advice into my latest bake. A sticking point for those of us who would like to make authentic Borodinsky is the malt. The original requires a fermented rye malt called red malt. As far as I can tell this is not available in the United States. Furthermore the process for making it is not well adapted to a home kitchen. See for instance the discussion on dabrownman's post [2]. However, there are excellent rye malts available. I was able to purchase three different malts at a brewing supply store in Cambridge, Massachusetts: caramel, chocolate, and simple malted rye. The chocolate and caramel are malted seeds which are then roasted to the desired color and flavor. For the simple malted rye, the seeds are sprouted and then dried in a kiln.
The advice I got through Eliabel was pretty straightforward.
1. Kvas is not a sufficiently concentrated source of rye malt for Borodinsky
2. Molasses should go in the final dough rather than in the scald
3. Eliabel also quoted a new book on Rye Zavarka breads which says that the red malt process retains some of the diastatic enzymes of the malt.
For this bake I used the chocolate malted rye in the scald, and then added some of the simple rye malt to the final dough. I also added the molasses to the final paste rather than the scald.
Since in earlier Borodinsky attempts both Masha and Eliabel had mentioned there should be no cracking of the top, I modified a few things to see if I could avoid it. First, I went way up on the hydration to 98%. Second I took Howard's advice to dock the top, and Minioven's advice to take a spatula and separate the top of the loaf from the side of the pan prior to proofing. This is the first of many attempts in which the top did not crack. Otherwise I followed the three stage Auerman process as detailed by Andy [3]. I was again unable to cover the pan during the bake because I had added so much more water that the dough was too high. It just ended up doming slightly.
I cut in and tasted today after a 20 hour rest.
Since the chocolate malted rye had such a strong flavor, I should probably have used a bit more freshly ground coriander than I did. I had cut back because my malt in previous attempts wasn't strong enough to balance the coriander flavor. Other than that, I was pretty happy with the result.
Update: Oh, one more thing I would change. The scald was a little dry without the molasses and so hard to mix in with the rye sour. Next time, instead of adding the extra 50g of water to the final dough, I would add more water to the scald.
Borodinsky with Chocolate Rye Malt |
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Rye Sour |
| 5:15 PM | 9:00 PM |
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Seed | 60 |
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Whole Rye | 32 | 75 | 140 | 247 |
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Water | 28 | 135 | 250 | 413 | 167% |
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| 660 |
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Scald |
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Whole Rye | 104 |
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Chocolate Malted Rye | 36 |
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Boiling Water | 249 | adjusted for evaporation |
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Ground coriander | 4 |
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| 393 |
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Sponge |
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Rye Sour | 552 |
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Scald | 393 |
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| 945 |
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Total | Final | Sour | Scald | Total | Percent |
Whole Rye | 207 | 207 | 104 | 517 | 79% |
KABF | 138 |
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| 138 | 21% |
Water | 50 | 345 | 249 | 644 | 98% |
Molasses | 41 |
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| 41 | 6% |
Chocolate Malted Rye |
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| 36 | 36 | 5% |
Malted Rye | 9 |
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| 9 | 1.4% |
Salt | 10 |
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| 10 | 1.5% |
Ground coriander |
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| 4 | 4 | 0.6% |
Sponge | 945 |
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| 552 | 393 | 1400 |
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Sour factor | 0.84 |
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Feed starter as above |
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At second feeding, make the scald |
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Leave overnight (12 hours.) Sour is frothy |
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Mix scald and starter |
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Ferment for 5.5 hours |
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Add final ingredients - mix by hand until blended |
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Ferment for 1 hour |
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Note that paste was very fluffy and aerated at this point |
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Spoon into greased bread pan. Smooth down with wet spatula. |
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Spray top with water and do so at intervals |
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Cover |
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Proof for 1 hour 55 minutes |
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Very bubbly and starting to get holey on top |
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Oven preheated to 550 for 1 hour - steam pan for last 30 minutes of preheat | |||||
Put bread in oven and bring temperature back to 550 |
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Then reduce to 350 |
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Bake for 1 hour 15 min covered with foil after first 15 minutes |
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then remove steam pan, remove bread from pan and bake for 30 minutes |