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hearthbakedtunes's picture
hearthbakedtunes

 Oh Boy! Oh Boy! Oh Boy! This is by far the most exciting and interesting Vollkornbrot that I have ever baked, and I have baked quiet a few of them! I got this idea from the Baeko recipe database. As you might expect, I made several changes to the original formula. This bread is loaded with whole grain goodness, a high amount of fermented flour, a high amount of soaked grain and a truckload of dried fruit and toasted nuts and seeds. My approach to this bread was to simply use the fruit and nut soaker idea and throw that into Hamelman's recipe for Vollkornbrot. The result was fantastic. However, first I would like to shed some light on the process and give you an in depth discussion of the taste and texture of this bread.

This bread is made with 100% whole rye, coming in the form of whole rye flour and rye chops. The rye chops are soaked in warm water overnight, but most of the whole rye flour is located in the sourdough build. What I want to spend most of my time talking about is the dried fruit and nut soaker. This soaker was made with 100 grams of dried cranberries, 100 grams of golden raisin, 100 grams of sliced dried apricots, 100 grams of toasted walnuts and sunflower seeds and 100 grams of boiling water. I used boiling water because I knew that the heat in the water would help to extract the natural sugars and flavors found in the dried fruit. It would also help to extract some of the salty-nutty flavor from the seeds and help to spread it throughout the entire dough during the final mix and fermentation/proofing stages of this bread.

There is something about golden raisins that I love. I am not sure what it is, but they are special to me. I do recall spending an afternoon with my good fried Isaac in 2006 eating handful after handful of golden raisins in our room in Jerusalem. I will admit to regretting it later, because that was a lot of fiber, as with anything else, I had to pay the ultimate price. But lets not "go" there. I also remember eating loquats, which are my favorite fruit, in ample quantities. I like them because they are weird and hard to come by as they are grown in the Middle East and in Bermuda. This soaker makes this bread a lot of fun because it fills the crusty bread with a tenderness and a sweetness that exceeds the typical caramelization of a fully baked rye bread. And this one took close to 90 minutes to bake. This is not a bread for the faint of heart and the fruit and nuts do bring a lightness to a bread that is not typically light. All of the ingredients including the rye, seeds, and fruit brings an intense bread to a whole new level of intensity. This bread is so delicious that it scares me!

 Like any other Vollkornbrot this is a very crusty bread. It is also a very dense bread whose character changes as it is allowed to rest. Much like ourselves, it start off as child, and with the passage of time, it becomes an almost wiser version of itself. But, if you let it get too wise, you will find that it will break your jaw. If this bread is kept in a plastic bag in the fridge, it will last for close to three weeks, maybe even longer. I never have a problem with bread going bad, because it is a major staple of my diet. When a bread is as nutritious and as wholesome as this one is, you never have a guilty feeling about going back for another slice. Over the past few days I have eaten this several ways but the two ways that I have enjoyed it most are "naked" and oddly, with cold pepper jack cheese. (For those of you who are new to this blog, the "naked" refers to the bread and not me.) The spiciness of the pepper jack goes wonderfully with the sweetness of the fruit. The next time I bake this bread I am going to withhold the walnuts and simply add some toasted salted sunflower seeds in their place. I would normally leave them out of the soaker, but once again, I love the salty flavor that the seeds can bring to the crumb when they are added to a boiling water soaker.


I now realize that I did not speak much on the production of this bread. I am currently on an Amtrak train on my way to Atlantic City, and do not have access to my notes, so I will only add a few notes from memory to shed light on a little bit of the process. This dough is mixed on first speed only, and for ten minutes. Karen H Kerr, a baker whom I respect greatly, recommends using the paddle attachment. I gave it a whirl, but it did not work so well for me. Perhaps her formula for Vollkornbrot is much different than mine. After about four or five minutes, I put the hook on and I found it to be more effective. I am a traditional in that sense and cleaning thick dough such as this off the paddle was really a pain in the batinsky! But hey, ‘live and learn and die learning’, that is what I always say. After the dough has come together completely, the fruit soaker is added and allowed to mix until combined and spread evenly throughout. My attitude is: "get the fruit in the dough and don't worry". To me, when you have a dough with this much whole rye flour, the full bake is much more important than a perfect mix. This bread dough is really somewhere between a dough and very thick batter! I always start this bread in a hot oven (470 F) then after twenty minutes bring it down to 375 and bake for one more hour. I then remove the bread from the Pullman pan and let it finish directly on the stone for 15 minutes. This helps firm up the sides a bit and ensures the bread is baked fully! It will be dark, even the flour coating on the pan will have adhered to the bread and look very toasted

This is a bread for the ages! One that I hope one day I will be remembered for!!

Bake on!

-DW, The Rye King


PiPs's picture
PiPs

I am completely amazed every time I look up from my bench and to the left and see the oven. I talk to it as I walk past it in the early morning. I feel like I know it already as I have seen it formed from the ground up. We will make great bread together ... will just take time to get to know each other.


Enzymatic Preferment

Most of my efforts have been in the kitchen this week. Extending an autolyse for flavour via increased amino acid build up is something that ars pistorica talks about on his blog ... and it is something he suggested I try.

Ars explains this process with knowledge (much more than me ... that's for sure) and vigour on his blog ... so let me just say it that it baked into some of the most delicious sourdough I have had made in a long time ...

Leaven
65% Hydration
29-30C
T80 sifted fresh milled wheat
10% inoculation
aerated 4 times
12hrs

Final Dough
Autolyse 12 hours 
75% Hydration
Inoculation 18%
Fresh milled wheat 10%
Bulk 4hrs at 25C (1 stretch-and-fold + 1 really, really gentle fold within first hour)
Final proof was  30 mins at room temp and 5hrs in cool room
Baked in very ordinary ovens :) 

YUM! ...

Cheers,
Phil

p.s. whew ... my work is finished for the week ... but have to share a pic of the sourdough from this mornings bake ... Shame that I didn't get to taste one ... they all disappeared up to the restaurant before I had the chance :(

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

Miche made with High-extraction Flour

March 20, 2013

I have been meaning to bake another miche for some weeks. Yesterday, I made one. It is quite similar to the one on which I blogged in This miche is a hit!  All the flour in both the levain and the final dough was Central Milling T85 flour. The differences were: I did the initial mix in my Bosch Universal Plus, rather than by hand. I scaled it to 2 kg, and I omitted the toasted wheat germ.

The miche was baked with steam at 450ºF for 15 minutes, then at 425ºF convection for another 45 minutes. I left it in the turned off oven with the door ajar for another 30 minutes. After cooling on a rack for 3 hours, I wrapped it in baker's linen and let it rest for 24 hours before slicing it.

 

The crust was crunchy and the crumb was tender. The flavor was wheaty and sweet with a moderate sourdough tang. Very tasty. Highly recommended.

David 

 

 

SylviaH's picture
SylviaH

I made the Pain Au Levain 'sourdough' pg. 158 from the book 'Jeffery Hamelman Bread'.

What a lovely delicious bread that has been enjoyed by many who have baked it.

When preparing my wfo for this bake, timing was very important because, I also make dinner in it before doing my baking.  

I call our dinner on Mike's work days 'time orders'.  

When he arrives home from a cycling exercise ride.  He has just enough time for showering and eating before, leaving the house.

So dinner is on table usually about 4:15.

 

I fired the oven up, mixed my bread and, roasted the chicken after the first logs burned down.  I only needed to add one log at a time to burn  a low flame for the roasting.

When the chicken was done.  I placed it into my elec. oven to keep it hot.  I made the salad, tended to my bread strectch and folds and made the pizza's.

Dinner was ready.  The pizza's only take a few minutes.  Everything was timed great and tasted delicious.

Just after dinner.  The loaves were shaped.  

Now there only some hot coals to rake over the oven floor.  Then I cleaned up after dinner.

After cleaning up the kitchen, I raked out what was left of the dying embers and ash.  Mopped my oven floor, placed the door on and left the oven to stablize for one hour and 15 minutes.  

The oven and loaves were both ready.  The timing worked out very good.

Everything was done.  Now the fun.  Baking my bread and I also put in some yams.

I had plenty of stored heat in the oven and could have baked longer.  But, it was a long day and I was tired and didn't really need the extra rustic pies I was thinking about adding to the days bake.  Easter and my birthday will be here soon.  How time flys.  Plenty of time for sweet eating and calories.

 

The neighborhood farmers market was full of fresh greens.  I should have brought my camera.  I especially wanted the Cara Cara Oranges for my roasted beet and goat cheese salad, basalmic glaze, all were topped over spinach.  Roasted walnuts were forgotten :/ would have added a nice crunch.

 

 

Whenever I fire up my oven.  I always include an organic chix.  Good for dinner, sandwiches or, what have you!

 

Lemon, Garlic and Herb Chix.  Delicious and very tender.

 

 

Mike's favorite  -  Pepperoni

The dough I had already frozen and used it today.  It was 100% Caputo 00 flour.

 

Heirloom tomato from the FMarket on this one, with a little pepperoni that was left.

 

 

Farmer's Market Squash Blossom's for this Pizza

These were the female blossom's, so I added the tiny zucc's

 

Delicious and tender

 

And now for more bread bakes. 

The lovely JH Pain Au Levain ' sourdough', melt in your mouth delicious 

 

They sprung so fast and started browning.... 10 minutes in the oven... before I got the steam pans out.  Not to much harm done.

 

Browning up nicely... apx. 30 min. in the oven... I removed them.  Let them cool overnight.

 

The bakers hand fell asleep about 3/4 away down the slash on the loaf on the left.

 

Crumb was open.  No extra hydration was added.  I stuck to the books formula

 

 

I was happy with the bottom crust.  The oven floor was a nice temperature.  Oven was apx. 500F and lowering.

 

Oven's clean and ready for the next firing.  Nothing beats a self cleaning oven.

 

Sylvia

 

 

 

yy's picture
yy

I just returned yesterday from my first visit to Haiti as one of a group of 16 graduate students in public health, forestry and environmental studies, and nursing. Our route took us from Port au Prince, the capitol city devastated by a magnitude 7.0 earthquake in January 2010, through the Artibonite Valley, the epicenter of the subsequent cholera outbreak, and finally to the city of Hinche in the Central Plateau, the site of a suspected sewage dump that set off an epidemic that has killed thousands.

We spent a week in the town of Deschapelles, located in the Artibonite Valley about 70 miles north of Port au Prince. Our group stayed at an inn run by a member of the founding family of Hopital Albert Schweitzer. At each meal, we received heaping helpings of multiple varieties of starch - rice and beans, fried plantains, fried potatoes, and bread - a common cuisine in many areas located in the tropics.

With a paper-white, dense, dry crumb and a hard, smooth tan exterior, this bread can't disguise its lack of nutritional value. Unless slathered in butter, it has no flavor at all. Even when fresh, it has a stale, crumbly quality. The dough is probably made from a low-protein, low-quality flour, minimally hydrated and leavened as quickly as possible.

A 10-mile hike from Deshapelles, through a set of mountains, and to the next valley brough us to Bastien, a small town known in the local area for small, round, spongy boules of bread. Our guide called it "mountain bread," though I'm not sure what the proper name is. We saw a beehive-shaped clay oven next to one of the homes nearby.

In Bastien, we also met a lady selling fry bread. The flavor resembled that of a salty, unsweetened donut. We asked her how she made her bread, and she mentioned flour, water and salt. It seemed to be chemically leavened. I asked her in my horrible kreyol, "eske mwen kapab pran foto ou?" - May I take a photo of you - and she was happy to oblige, proudly posing for a shot with her product. Having hiked 5 miles of winding, hilly trails under the hot sun, we were quite hungry (in the first-world kind of way), and the sensation of fat and salt on our palates gave us a euphoric rush. I can only imagine what it must be like to eat a hunk of fried dough when you're truly hungry.

Ironically, diabetes and hypertension are on the rise in the Artibonite Valley in the midst of malnutrition. It seems to be an emerging trend in many developing areas - disease of excess right alongside diseases of deprivation. It's difficult to avoid starchy, high-fat, high-sodium foods when they are the most affordable and available. We're familiar with the same patterns here in the United States.

It somehow seems fitting that the bread in a place with such a complicated past and an equally complicated present should be so simple; it's a basic food that allows people to fill their bellies and go on with their lives. Spending time in an impoverished area always reminds me what a privilege it is to be able to choose what I eat, and to turn down the things I don't want to eat. It is also a privilege to have had the education to make knowledgeable dietary decisions, and to never have been forced to decide between going to school or eating dinner. For those of you who were lucky enough to have a spring break, I hope it was enjoyable, and I look forward to hearing about your adventures.

Floydm's picture
Floydm

I hope you'll forgive me for making an off topic post, but my last post didn't do justice to how pretty it is Poland right now.  I wanted to do a quick post to share pictures of a few of the sites here.  

Warszawa:

There are oodles more in my Flickr account (here and here). I'll make more posts about the food here when I get home.  So much to see and do though, so little time! 

-Floyd

AdelK's picture
AdelK

Made this for the first time having read txfarmer's extensive post on this bread. It certainly does live up to its reputation of being the softest sandwich loaf ever. The extensive dough kneading required produced a dough so silky smooth that I couldn't help myself but to have a taste of the raw dough. And disturbingly I wanted more of it. Hmm..

Good enough to be eaten as a snack.

Kong

http://stressreliefbaking.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/the-perfect-white-sandwich-loaf.html#more

welldigger's picture
welldigger

I love the crustiness I get with the Jim Lahey style bread. But if I store in in a plastic bag, it crust goes all soft. How can I keep it out on the counter for 3-5 days? Someone suggested keeping it in a paper bag. Anyone ever had luck with that?

By the way, I'm new to The Fresh Loaf but not new to bread baking. Started 40 years ago with the Tassajara method. Am now quickly become a Laher and Reinhart devotee (but I kind of miss the therapy of all that kneading).

 

 

Wingnut's picture
Wingnut

Just thought with all my experimenting I would make a basic Sourdough loaf just so I would not forget what brought me down this road.

Enjoy the coming spring everyone!

 

Cheers,

Wingnut

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

After the our take on Ballymaloe’s Brown Bread with Guinness and Biga, turned out so nice for St. Paddy’s Day, we wondered why we haven’t ever seen this bread baked as a sourdough at Ballymaloe?  So we thought we would give it a go with Not Mini's Ancient WW SD Starter that is almost 2 weeks old and nearly tripling after 8 hours now.

  

The starter saga can be found here:

 http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/32665/mini-ovens-no-muss-no-fuss-starter-8-days-laater

The Ballymaloe Brown Bread for St Paddy’s Day can be found here:

http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/32718/st-paddy%E2%80%99s-day-feast-sort-ballymaloe-100-ww-brown-bread-and-irish-ruben%E2%80%99s

This bread is just the perfect first loaf for Not Mini’s Ancient WW SD starter, even if only 13 days old and still a baby.

  

Some of the changes we made to the last bake were; upping the levain from 180 g to 240 g to try to account for a starter not quite on its pegs yet, adding a 100g (dry weight) scald since the last bake was crying out for one, replacing the 50 g of soft white wheat in the levain with whole red wheat,  reducing the molasses to 30 g from 45 g to make the bread less sweet, upping the VWG to 20 g from 15 to help out the new starter, adding 3 g each of red and white malt powders and 10 g of Toadies to the mix.  We love Toadies and the added flavor it imparts to the bread.  The hydration ended up 3.5 points lower at 85% due to the more dry add in ingredients and less molasses and nearly 200 g grams heavier than the last Brown Bread bake.

  

We have been reviving the 8 day old near dead and tumor bearing starter from its flour coffin for the past 5 days.   By feeding it straight WW at 100% hydration and refreshing it every 12 hours it has made progress.  We think we have it in good enough shape to try it out on this bread for its first bread.

 

The lid comes off and it had sprung an inch above the rim almost touching the top of the DO lid..

We did 30 minutes of autolyse excepting the levain and the scald.  We also changes the process this time to do 4 sets of S&F’s over 2 hours on 30 minute increments to develop the gluten further and incorporate the scalded berries during the third set and getting them really evenly distributed at the end of the 4th set. 

 

As a final change, we decided to do the bulk ferment and a final proof in a small CI enameled Dutch oven and retard it for 20 hours between the two.  The bulk ferment on the counter was 2 hours.  After taking the DO out of the fridge we let the dough final proof on the counter for 4 hours before putting it into a 425 F oven to steam for 30 minute.

We then took the lid off and turned the oven down to 350 F to bake another 10 minutes before removing the bread from the DO and finish baking it on the oven rack between two stones until it hit 205 F.  We turned the oven off and left the bread on the bottom stone for 10 minutes to crisp the crust with the oven door ajar before removing to a cooling rack. 

The loaf rose well in the fridge during retard and on the heating pad during final proof .  Unlike the previous bake, this loaf sprang well in the oven.  We are glad we decided to bake the loaf this way rather than as a pumpernickel - low and slow.  The crust was dark brown, crisp and glossy when it came out of the oven like DO's put on bread.  It smells very good and my apprentice is very proud of the Not Mini's Ancient SD starter for its first bake at 14 days of age.  It really did its job and some sour came through.

The crumb turned out fairly open, moist and glossy for a 100% whole wheat bread.  It tastes very good and a little tangy.  It isn't as sweet as the biga brown bread from SP Day.We like this one a lot but both are very good in their own way.  Now we have to bake this one like a pumpernickel :-)

Volunteer zinnia  in the front yard.  Everything is blooming in AZ except the cactus which will be very soon.

Formula

SD Starter

Build 1

Build 2

Total

%

Mini's WW Starter

30

0

30

4.80%

Whole Wheat

60

50

110

22.00%

Water

60

40

100

20.00%

Total

150

90

240

48.00%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

SD Levain Totals

 

%

 

 

Flour

125

25.00%

 

 

Water

115

23.00%

 

 

Hydration

92.00%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Levain % of Total

17.94%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dough Flour

 

%

 

 

Whole Wheat

500

100.00%

 

 

Dough Flour

500

100.00%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salt

9

1.80%

 

 

Guinness

423

84.60%

 

 

Dough Hydration

84.60%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Total Flour

625

 

 

 

Guinness and SD Starter Water

538

 

 

 

T. Dough Hydration

86.08%

 

 

 

Whole Grain %

100%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hydration w/ Adds

84.95%

 

 

 

Total Weight

1,338

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Add - Ins

 

%

 

 

Red  Malt

3

0.60%

 

 

White Malt

3

0.60%

 

 

Toadies

10

2.00%

 

 

VW Gluten

20

4.00%

 

 

Molasses

30

6.00%

 

 

Total

66

13.20%

 

 

 

 

 

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