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dmsnyder

“White-Wheat Blend” from Chad Robertson’s “Tartine No. 3” Book

David Snyder

January, 2018

 At the time I was taking workshops at the San Francisco Baking Institute, almost 10 years ago now, the founder and director of the institute, Michel Suas, gave an interview for some periodical. He was asked what he thought the next trend in bread baking would be. As I recall, his confident answer was “ancient grains.” Back then, the SFBI was using whole wheat in a few breads and high-extraction flours in miches, at least. I don’t recall any West Coast bakers selling breads with spelt, Kamut, emmer or einkorn at that time. I first heard of spelt from janedo onThe Fresh Loaf. Of course, I subsequently learned that spelt (“épeutre” in French, “dinkel” in German), at least, was in fairly common use in France and Germany. Time has proven Michel Suas correct. Chad Robertson’s second bread baking book describes his quest to learn more about using whole grains and ancient grains to make bread that exploits their unique flavors and nutritional advantages. 

The breads in “Tartine No. 3” are made using the same basic techniques as described in “Tartine No. 2.” Most are made with high-extraction and whole grain flours and with blends of three or more flours. There are a couple changes in technique, or at least emphasis from Tartine No. 2 to Tartine No. 3. First, Robertson has  become a fan of prolonged autolyse. He specifies a minimum of 30 minutes but clearly prefers a longer time - overnight for many breads. This is even more interesting when you realize he includes the levain in his "autolyse" mix. Second, he has increased the preferred bulk fermentation temperature from 78-82 dF to 80-85 dF. 

I have blogged about my first bake from this book - the 60% Kamut bread. This blog entry is about my second bake: The first recipe in the book, which Robertson calls “White-Wheat Blend (Ode to Bourdon).” Bourdon being Richard Bourdon, the Berkshire mountains baker with whole Robertson apprenticed after graduating from culinary school and before moving to California.

This bread is made with a blend of 50% high-extraction wheat flour, 25% whole-grain wheat flour and 25% White whole wheat flour. The flours I used were Central Milling Organic Malted T70 flour, home-milled Red Turkey Wheat flour and King Arthur Flour White Whole Wheat flour. It also includes 7% wheat germ. The dough is 86% hydration (calculated by including the flour and the water in the levain). For this bake, I bulk fermented the dough at 85 dF in my Brød & Taylor proofing box. It developed quickly and well. Bulk fermentation was about 3 1/2 hours. It was cold retarded for about 10 hours and baked in a Lodge Combo Cooker.

Because of the high percentage of whole grain flour, the dough is just a bit sticky - rather well-behaved, if the gluten is well-developed. With gentle handling, the resulting crumb is quite open for a bread with so much whole wheat. The flavor is delightful - wheaty, nutty, mildly sour and not at all grassy. 

 

Happy New Year and Happy baking!

David

alfanso's picture
alfanso

Last year I kicked off the year with two entries of 2016 in review.  The first was baguettes I baked, and the second was the batards.  This year I thought that I'd document a slew of selected baguettes from my favorite viewing angle.  Some are repeats from last year as this is not a 2017 review.  With few exceptions, all are different breads.

PalwithnoovenP's picture
PalwithnoovenP

Hello TFLers! I hope you're on to a  great start for 2018. Some photos failed to upload in my previous post, as promised here they are.







 
Bagels from another angle.





 

Another crumb shot with schmear.

 
I love cheese pimiento (that's how we call pimento cheese) so I schmeared some. This particular spread was made with Edam, a bit of mayo and home-roasted bell peppers. I think pimento cream cheese will be good on these and will be my favorite.



Turned into a sandwich. I love to eat it this way instead of a half at a time because you maximize it's toothsome texture. So satisfying! Why have I only made them now, years after a failed first attempt; they're deliciousness was just a recent discovery for me. Perhaps bagels are the bread of this year for me. I'm so excited to try different flavor combinations!


 

Ready for New Year's Eve Dinner.

I paired them with these:

A simple tuna pasta with white sauce.

And our infamous sweet spaghetti. I did not put cut-up hotdogs this time because I could not find them but our spaghetti always has them. :)

 
The bagels go well with both and makes the meal much more filling. I hope you enjoyed this post. Happy baking and Happy New Year everyone!

alfanso's picture
alfanso

Other than on his The Perfect Loaf site, I can’t remember where I saw Maurizio’s 50-50 WW SD posted by anyone.  I warehoused the formula until this week.  Not being a big fan of bread that leans too heavily on WW, I was cautious about this one.  I generally find that they taste a little too “earthy” for me.  I decided to tinker with this a bit.  I added ~12% chopped figs and ~12% pecans to the dough on the first Letter Fold.  And therefore Maurizio’s 50-50 WW became Alfanso’s 50-50 WW with figs and pecans.

Maurizio uses a combination of higher gluten AP flours than I do, but my KA WW has a little more protein than his Guisto’s Stoneground WW does, so all in all, it seems to be a somewhat even trade.  Mixing this by hand with French Folds yields an unsurprisingly super slack dough.  It comes in at ~89% hydration, a region that I've rarely ever visited, or even come anywhere close to. And it took the majority of the 5 Letter Folds to tighten up.  Into retard and then a late night shaping where the dough was much more cooperative. but still quite wet and slack.

From experience I know that I generally do not get a big grigne from oven spring nor much of an open crumb when there is a rather large quantity of fruit & nuts.  And especially when there is high hydration, as this monster has.  The additions to the dough have a tendency to weigh the dough down and interrupt what would probably be a more open crumb.  So there was some initial disappointment in the mid-bake outcome when I released the steam - until I remembered those few minor, but important details.

It is a lovely bread with a nice crispy crust and a soft crumb.  The figs were added to provide some sweetness to the mix, but they should have been chopped up smaller.  I may visit this bread very soon again, next time without the fruit or nuts.  I’m curious as to how the final product will play out and whether I can attain some of the beauty that Maurizio produces for his bread.

 

 

 

 

These were pretty big batards for me.  The smaller was ~600g and the larger ~1000g (and there's a reason for that).

One funny shaping incident: I originally shaped 3 baguettes and the smaller batard, couched them, and then went to retard.  Somewhere about a half hour later I realized that the baguettes were not the best solution for so much additive.  And so the retarded dough was un-retarded, the 3 baguette were un-couched, balled together and then reformed and shaped into the larger batard before going back on the couche to join the other.  A little crazed, but it seemed to work.

leslieruf's picture
leslieruf

Decided to mill some spelt and rye and use it in a simple 1:2:3 loaf and concentrate on open crumb and great oven spring.  My flour mix was 70% bread flour, 20% freshly milled rye and 10% freshly milled spelt.  

 I started off with a starter build of 1:2:3 late sunday afternoon.  Monday morning I built further 1:2:2 intending to use water at about 30°C but misjudged it and when I mixed it up it was more like 26°c. This was left at room temperature to mature.  Room temp started at 23°c.

 At 11 am mixed flours and water and left to autolyse until I was ready to carry on.  2 pm room temperature was 27°c, levain was ready so added the salt and levain to dough using Trevor Wilson’s gentle method.  left it to rest 15 minutes and did another round of gentle stretch and folds which were then repeated hourly (3 times) with a final one half an hour later before dividing and preshaping dough. After 30 minutes did final shape and placed in bannetons then retarded over night. Baked this morning at 230°c straight from fridge. One batard with 2 slashes, one with a single.  

 It is frustrating - it all went well but whilst I got a little oven spring, the dough spread more than I wanted!  Tastes really good though.  

 

Question #1:  did I not build enough dough strength? (was going to check for window pane but forgot)

Question #2:  is this a result of using freshly milled grain?  should I have reduced hydration a little - loving being able to mill grain with my Mockmill100 but still learning about how freshly milled grain responds.

Leslie

Therese3b's picture
Therese3b

Hello

I was wondering if anyone had a copy of the manual for Breville Bread Maker BB290?

If they did, would you mind please sending it to: therese3b@gmail.com  ?

Best Regards

Therese3b

kendalm's picture
kendalm

Decided to try out a 16 layer version of croissants today and unfortunately over proofed them (having realized no eggs and making a dash for the market of last minute eggwash) ... Note to self - be prepared ! Its really quite annoying having one step mess the entire bake. So unfortunately I ended up with fairly sunken croissants but the objective here was to see if 16 layers is better then 12. Typically most recipes call for a double fold followed by a simple fold - that's 4 layers from the double multiplied by 3 from the simple fold. Depending how you look at it you could call that 25 layers if you count both the butter and dough but it got me wondering as I do read articles where some bakers do two double turns for 16 (or 33 spending how you count). It seems the lower count version is more common in France and the higher count version is more of English spin on the traditional viennoise pastry. I tend to notice that my dough layers in the final product seem a bit thick and though it may be a good idea to try increasing and was wondering if anykne had an opinion on lamination ?

suminandi's picture
suminandi

and first bake of 2018. Made a batch of 50-50 fresh ground red spring wheat and AP flour. Mixed one half with olives and the other with seed blend (sunflowe, sesam, flax). Folds during NYE board game night, preshape and shape just after midnight, refridge over night, bake after the Rose Parade (~noon). Bringing to potluck this evening. 

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