The Fresh Loaf

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manicbovine's picture
manicbovine

I make a variation of this bread each Sunday; I've done so for the last several months. The result has steadily improved.



 


      My goal is a whole-grain bread that stands on its own. I don't eat many sandwiches, but enjoy slices of bread for lunch or breakfast. I have practical demands from the bread I make: long shelf-life, versatile, and relatively easy to produce.


      I've experimented a lot (pumpkin seeds in one week's loaf, not a success), but none of it has mattered much. I'm such a novice that I think the bread has improved through practice. I had hoped to eventually post with an absolutely perfect formula and method. I realize that I'm not going to achieve this, so I'd rather just post and ask for feedback.


Levain Build


100% Hydration Rye Starter       5%


Whole Rye Flour                          100%


Water                                          60%


 


1.) Mix, aerate well, and let sit for 12-18 hours.


 


Final Dough


WW Flour                                     66%


Whole Rye                                   14%


Whole Spelt                                 20%


Water                                          67%


Levain                                          20%


Salt                                              4.5%


Molasses                                     5.6%


Olive Oil                                       3.5%


 


1.) Mix flours, water, molasses, and oil. Let rest for 45 minutes at room temp.


2.) Mix in salt and starter.


3.) Knead well, moderate gluten development. It's wet, but comes together eventually. By hand, it takes around 20 minutes with a resting period.


4.) Bulk ferment 2 hours @ room temp, stretch and fold, ferment another hour, stretch and fold.


5.) Shape, place into fridge for 18 hours.


6.)  Bake straight from fridge in 475F oven for 15 minutes under regular steam. Lower temp to 425 and bake until done. (It darkens quickly in my oven, so I place a piece of tinfoil on top to prevent too dark a crust.)


Notes: I live in Arizona, which is very dry. My flour is thirsty! I'd adjust the hydration in a normal climate. Also, some of the rye flour can be replaced with rye meal. This improves the rye flavor and provides an interesting texture.


 


The result is a sour loaf with a complex rye/wheat flavor; spelt adds a sweet hint. It toasts well, dips well in soup, and stands up to Dijon. 


 


Cheers.

breadsong's picture
breadsong

Hello,


Here are today's efforts (gifts for a friend, so I can't cut them to take a crumb shot!):
Rose Levy Beranbaum's French Country Sourdough Boule
Jeffrey Hamelman's Oatmeal Bread (straight dough)


Mr. Hamelman's Oatmeal Bread is delicious! But I wanted to make special mention of the French Country Sourdough - I really like the flavor provided by the combination of sour and flours in this loaf. The recipe is also spiked with instant yeast, so when I have planned poorly or am otherwise rushed for time and want to complete a sourdough loaf in a shorter timeframe, this is the recipe I turn to. 


Rose's original recipe was created for those without their own sourdough starter, and so calls for a powdered sourdough starter by Lalvain called "Pain de Campagne". Rose's formula for Liquid Sourdough Starter is:
100g bread flour
.4 grams Lalvain Pain de Campagne starter
100 g water, room temperature (70F-90F) 
Stir together for 3-5 minutes until very smooth (will be very liquid). Cover bowl tightly with greasted plastic wrap (or place starter in a 2-cup food-storage container with a lid) and place it in a warm spot (70F-90F); let sit for at least 12 and up to 20 hours. It will be full of bubbles and will have risen by about one third. It is ready to use to make the dough, or it can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.

I have substituted an equal amount of my sourdough starter and this has worked out OK. The formula below is identical to Rose's recipe, except for the type of starter and my adjustment to the amount of instant yeast used. The formula I use is:
200g sourdough starter
300g water
flours: 312g bread , 80g rye, 58g whole wheat
2g instant yeast
11.6g salt


I find this makes just over 2 pounds of dough - about right for my 9" banneton.


I feed my sourdough the night before, and when it is risen, I begin making the bread. As it is a very sticky dough, Rose's instructions are to combine starter and water in Kitchen Aid mixer bowl, sprinkle on the flours and yeast, mix on low (#2 speed) until a rough dough is formed, cover bowl and autolyse 20 minutes.


Sprinkle on salt and mix on medium (#4 speed) 10 minutes. (I found my mixer gets warm! so I stop a bit earlier, about 8 minutes. The weights given above are double her original recipe so I'm sure that's why my mixer is working hard!). I've also mixed and kneaded by hand, trying to be careful about adding too much extra flour (usually if I'm making two boules at once - too much dough for my Kitchen Aid to handle).


Scrape the dough into a greased dough-rising container; cover; rise until double (75F-80F), 1.5 to 2 hours. Stretch and fold (2 business letter turns). Rise until double (about 1 hour).


Shape into a boule. Line banneton with a floured cloth*, and place boule inside, smooth side down. Cover. Let rise until almost doubled, about 1 hour. When the dough is pressed gently with a fingertip, the depression should very slowly fill in. The center of the loaf should come to the top of the banneton sides or a little above.
*Alternatively, flour the banneton with 50% white rice flour/50% all-purpose flour. I found some good tips and really helpful information on preparing bannetons here:
http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/3656/banneton-sticking-problems


Preheat oven to 475F one hour before baking, with baking stone on lowest level. Preheat a pan for steam.
Place parchment paper on a peel (or flat baking sheet). Place parchment-lined peel over banneton and gently invert banneton onto peel. Gently set peel on countertop, lift off banneton and gently remove the floured cloth. Slash the bread (1/4" deep), slide bread and parchment onto baking stone, steam the oven by pouring hot water or tossing ice cubes into the preheated steam pan.
Bake 5 minutes, and reduce heat to 450F. Bake for 20-25 minutes until bread is deep brown, 212F internal temperature. Remove bread to wire rack to cool completely.


With many thanks to Rose Levy Beranbaum, for her wonderful recipe and for granting permission to give formula and method details here.
Friends and family love this bread and if you make it, I hope you do too!

Regards, breadsong

wally's picture
wally

    


This past weekend I decided to continue my experimentation with ryes and hot soakers. After my experience spending 7 hours making a mash for my last rye, I took Hamelman's comment on my attempt to heart: "it's always seemed to me that historically people would have been grateful to be able to make a simple manipulation of ingredients and wind up with a little sweetness in their bread."


So I decided to trade-in further chemistry experiments in favor of seeing if greater simplicity could still yield greater flavor. I selected Hamelman's 66% rye in Bread because I wanted a sandwich loaf and this seemed like it would fit the bill - sufficient rye content to provide a flavorful loaf, yet not so much as to yield a dense crumb.


The variation on his recipe was to add a hot soaker as well as toasted sunflower seeds. To create the soaker I took his rye levain, which accounts for a little over 40% of total dough weight, and halved it, creating a soaker with equal portions of flour and water that would have gone into the levain. This also raised total hydration from 75% to 80%. I then upped the percentage of yeast slightly to account for the smaller amount of levain used.


The night before my bake on Sunday I mixed my levain, and then poured boiling water over the rye. According to Hamelman this is called brühstück (a scalded soaking) in Germany. Using equal parts water and flour you end up with a very dense mixture. Both levain and soaker were covered and left overnight.


The next morning I mixed levain, brühstück and water, and then added the remaining ingredients. My toasted sunflower seeds were salted, so I gave them a quick rinse in a sieve.


Because I wanted sandwich bread - and because the hydration was so high - I air shaped the loaf and placed it in a somewhat smaller than standard bread tin. After 55 minutes proofing it was baked at 460 F initially, after which the temperature was decreased to 400 for the remainder of the bake. I wrapped the loaf in a tea towel after it cooled, and allowed it to rest 24 hours before cutting.


                  


This, it turns out, was a good move, because it was quite moist, and over the past few days while it has dried somewhat, it remains moist. The soaker did in fact impart a noticeable sweetness that balanced nicely with the nuttiness of the sunflower seeds. Not as sweet as a mash soaker, but much simpler. This is bread I'll bake again.


    


While waiting for the rye to finish baking I was reading through old articles I've accumulated related to bread, and stumbled upon James MacGuire's wonderful The Baguette, printed in The Art of Eating in 2006 (Number 73 + 74).


                                                         


I've read a number of times his wonderful accounting of the history of the baguette, how French baking underwent near ruination after World War II with mechanization, and of the pivotal role played by MacGuire's friend and sometime collaborator Raymond Calvel in resuscitating the art of baking through the introduction of autolyse. James MacGuire is a master baker, but he is as well a masterful narrator and commentator on the history of bread - particularly in France. I cannot too highly recommend this article to anyone unfamiliar with it. (Reprints may be obtained from The Art of Eating.)


The surprise for me, however, was that I had neglected to ever look at his recipe for a pain tradition at the article's end. And I delighted in what I found there. MacGuire is keenly aware of the challenges baguettes present to the home baker, starting with the fact that most home ovens will not accommodate a true baguette's length, and including the travails one confronts with steaming, especially in gas ovens.


And then there too is the fact that his pain tradition is a super-hydrated dough at 80%, meaning that for the vast majority of bakers it would present formidable obstacles in shaping and slashing.


MacGuire says, in effect, Ok, you want a baguette but it is very hard to do. Here instead is a baguette dough which we'll shape to an easier profile (more like a miche), and through this achieve basically the same crumb to crust ratio a baguette has.


Again, simplicity is chosen over complicated schemes. (A theme is emerging I think).


His recipe calls for hand mixing and hand folding over many hours. Because I machine mix dough at work I'm inclined to do so at home - it just seems easier. But as I followed his process I was struck by how much more in touch you become with the gluten development of the dough. It is truly fascinating to experience over many hours what transpires in mere minutes in a mixer.


My one variation on his recipe was to give it a bulk retarding overnight in my refrigerator to develop more flavor since it is a straight dough.


Next day, after 16 hours in the fridge, I preheated my oven, and turned the dough out on a floured counter. Shaping, such as it is, is equally simple: MacGuire advises patting it out to a diameter approximating that of the bottom of your floured banneton or mold, and then plopping it in for final proof. That's easy.


Final proofing was about 75 minutes. The secret to this bread is a long bake which dries out the loaf so that its crust does not go soft after coming out of the oven. And to accomplish this means an initial bake at a fairly high temperature, followed by a long bake at a much lower temperature.


    


The loaf, just under 1 lb., was in the oven for 70 minutes. The trick is to achieve bread that has dried sufficiently, but not in the process developed a dark crust which overwhelms the delicate flavor of the crumb. The profile in terms of height is comparable to that of a baguette and it has a crisp crust and an amazingly light, airy crumb.



I love baguettes, but I tend to avoid baking them at home because the results are never as good as what I get in a commercial steam oven. And that is frustrating. But here, in this marvelous little recipe that MacGuire tucked at the end of his article, is a simple and enjoyable method of enjoying everything good in a baguette with the exception of its form.



Not a bad compromise!


Larry


 

jahocswim's picture
jahocswim

My bread was a little dense and the crust was soft not crispy.  I think it was too wet.  Any suggestions?

breadsong's picture
breadsong

Hello,


I've enjoyed the lovely bread served at the Grand Lux Cafe; I think this bread has outstanding flavor and a gorgeous crust.
I was wondering if anyone had ever tried reproducing it at home.
If yes, I would just love it if you were willing to share what you did, and how it turned out.


Regards, breadsong


 


 


 

teketeke's picture
teketeke

I have a question.


When I tried to make a Gosselin or Mr Nippon's looking baguette, They turned out  both of them were heavy baguettes. They are looking good indeed.  My question is that is right?  they are supposed to be heavy? I never had real one so that I can't figure it out. I hope that somebody tell me the fact.



 


Have you ever heard that a ratio of how much water the baguette lost ?


Here is the one that I heard of in Japan.


 


A ( The baguette's weight  before baking ) - B( The baguette's weight after baking) ÷ A x100 =  Ratio of  how much water the baguette lost.


The baguette's ratio is supposed to be around 20%-23% by Japanese bakery books. You can judge between good one and bad one depend on this.  The pictures above are around 17%


There are two of baguettes that I made today are light. see picture below:



All of them are 80% hydration. I like light baguettes.   


Best wishes,


Akiko

Jon Morrison's picture
Jon Morrison

I spoke to a professional baker on making bagels and he told me he uses ice in his dough.  This lowers the temperature of the dough allowing for a longer mix time with the large mixer.  Has anyone else had experience with using ice?  Can you do it with other sour doughs?


 


I am currently baking 7 types of sour dough,30-40 loaves a week, no rye yet.


 


Thanks,


 


Jon

Floydm's picture
Floydm

We just spent a weekend up in Victoria BC. 



As you can see, it was beautiful.  We had a great time.  I have a new obsession now though:



The current scones at Murchie's Tea & Coffee (on the right) were unbelievably good.  We had them with tea in the afternoon the day we got there and I had to go back to have another the next morning.  So light and totally different than the biscuit-like scones I am used to.  


I've been told that using cream that is already whipped and folding it into the dry ingredients is the secret to scones like these. I will figure out how to bake them or something very like them... oh yes, I will... and share my findings here.

JoeVa's picture
JoeVa

Finalmente sono andato a far visita al Mulino Marino nel piccolo paese di Cossano Belbo in provincia di Cuneo. Che dire: un mulino speciale dove puoi incontrare delle persone speciali.

Finally I went to visit Mulino Marino in the small town of Cossano Belbo, near Cuneo. What can I say? A special miller where you can meet special people.

         

 

   

   (in primo piano, da sinistra verso destra, Ferdinando, Flavio e Felice - in secondo piano, da sinistra verso destra, Fulvio, Federico e Fausto)

   (front, from left to right, Ferdinando, Flavio and Felice - back, from left to right, Fulvio, Federico and Fausto)

Il giorno prima di andare a trovarli ho contattato Fausto e al mio arrivo sono stato accolto da lui e suo fratello Fulvio (nella foto sono i due ragazzi seduti sulle macine). In un paio di ore ho visto tutto il mulino e abbiamo discusso in lungo e in largo non solo di tutto ciò che riguarda il loro lavoro ma anche delle attività connesse quali coltivazione dei grani, panificazione, ecc.

The day before going to meet them I contacted Fausto and at my arrival I was welcomed by him and his brother Fulvio. In a couple of hours I have seen all the mill rooms and we have discussed extensively not only about their work but also about related activities such as cultivation of grain, bread baking, etc..

Fausto ha studiato biologia e si occupa del controllo qualità, Fulvio ha studiato scienze della comunicazione e fa l' "apprendista mugnaio". Mi ha fatto molto piacere incontrare due miei coetanei con la mia stessa passione, inoltre Fulvio ha la mia stessa ossessione per la lievitazione naturale!

Fausto studied biology and works at the quality control, Fulvio studied communication sciences and he is "apprentice miller". I was delighted to meet two of my peers with my passion, moreover Fulvio has my own obsession with sourdough!

     

La loro storia inizia 50 anni fa, a meta anni '50, e continua oggi con la produzione di farine da agricoltura biologica macinate a pietra. Le macine a pietra naturale francese sono periodicamente martellate per ottenere le migliori farine macinate in purezza senza l'aggiunta di miglioratori o condizionatori (come conservanti, malto, enzimi, glutine, ecc.).

Their story begins 50 years ago, around the mid of 1950s, and continues today with the production of stone grounded organic flour. The natural French stone grinders are periodically hammered to get the best stone grounded flour milled in pureness without the addition of improvers or conditioners (such as preservatives, malt, enzymes, gluten, etc.).

                                         

La macinazione a pietra naturale usa un solo passaggio. L'intero chicco, compreso il germe e la crusca, viene macinato dando vita alla farina integrale (la Macina), molto nutriente e profumata. In successivi passaggi di setaccio viene separata la crusca/cruschello producendo le farine Setaccio e Buratto. La farine così ottenute sono farine non ricostruite, farine grasse impregnate dell'olio del germe di grano.

The natural stone grounding process use only a single step. The whole grain including the germ and bran is grounded into whole wheat flour (la Macina), a very nourishing and fragrant flour. In subsequent steps of sieving, the bran is separated producing Setaccio and Buratto flour. The flour obtained is not a "rebuilt flour" (a flour obtained with a mix of white flour, bran and germ), it is a "fatty" flour impregnated with wheat germ oil.

Il mulino dispone anche di macine a cilindri metallici per la produzione della più raffinate farine 0 e 00 sempre nel rispetto di una buona macinazione che non surriscaldi la farina. Poi c'è il piccolo laboratorio dove si trova tutta la strumentazione per le prove reologiche e farinografiche dei cereali. Tra tutte le attrezzature quella tecnologicamente più interessante è sicuramente il selezionatore ottico/infrarosso per la selezione dei chicci danneggiati, un'operazione che una volta veniva fatta manualmente.

They also have a metal roll miller to produce the finest flour type 0 and 00 always in compliance with a good grinding process that does not overheat the flour. Then there is the small lab where you will find all the equipment for rheological and farinograph test of cereals. One of the most technological and interesting facilities is the optical / infrared breeder for the selection of damaged grains, an operation that was once done manually.

Per le loro farine usano solo i migliori grani accuratamente selezionati prima dell'acquisto. Le farine di grano tenero, Tipo 00 - Tipo 0 - Tipo 1 Buratto - Tipo 2 Setaccio - Tipo Integrale Macina, sono prodotte dalla stessa miscelazione di grani di grani biologici italiani (nelle brutte annate acquistano anche del grano biologico canadese) tra cui il Taylor, il Bologna ed altri grani panificabili. La miscelazione dei grani è fatta in modo da ottenere un prodotto dalle caratteristiche costanti: W=280 P/L=0.55 FallingNumber=300s con un marigine di errore massimo del 20%. Poi ci sono i "grani antichi" quali il farro, il kamut, la segale, l'enkir, il senatore cappelli (grano duro) ed il mais "otto file".

For their flours they use only the best grain, carefully selected prior to be purchased. The wheat flours, Type 00 - Type 0 - Type 1 Buratto - Type 2 Setaccio - Type Whole, are produced by the same mixture of grains of organic Italian grains (in bad years they buy also some organic Canadian grains) including Taylor, Bologna and other grains with good quality for baking. The blend of grains is made to obtain a product with constant characteristics: W=280 P/L=0.55 FallingNumber=300s with a range error of no more than 20%. Then there are the "ancient grains" as emmer (farro), kamut, rye, enkir, Senatore Cappelli (durum wheat) and  "eight rows" maize.

  

Fulvio mi ha raccontato cosa significa passare dall'agricoltura convenzionale a quella biologica. Nei primi tre/cinque anni il terreno ormai "povero" e deturpato dai prodotti chimici fa fatica ed i raccolti sono di bassa qualità. Solo dopo alcuni anni la terra riprende il suo naturale equilibrio, fertile e piena di lombrichi è pronta a dare buoni raccolti. Coltivare biologico conviene non solo per la salute ma anche al portafoglio del contadino!

Fulvio told me what it means to switch from conventional to organic farming. In the first three to five years the field, now poor and disfigured by chemicals, has not enough power and vitality so the harvest is poor. Only after several years the land will resume its natural balance, fertile and full of earthworms is ready to give good harvests. Organic farming agrees not only to health but also to the farmer's portfolio!

Ho avuto il piacere di vedere dal vivo alcune spighe di orzo, grano tenero, senatore cappelli, segale ed enkir, tutti campioni coltivati da lui stesso in un piccolo appezzamento di terra. Il mulino si trova immerso nella natura, circondato da vigneti: siamo nelle Langhe, terra di vini pregiati come il barolo, il dolcetto d'alba ed il barbera d'Asti.

I had the pleasure to see some ears of barley, wheat, Senatore Cappelli, rye and enkir, all samples grown by himself in a small plot of land. The mill is surrounded by vineyards: we are in the Langhe, land of wines such as Barolo, Dolcetto d'Alba and Barbera d'Asti.

    

Anche Fulvio è appassionato di lievitazione naturale e mi ha mostrato i suoi lieviti, uno di frumento e l'altro di enkir e farro, pronti per la preparazione di pane e focaccia. Finalmente un mugnaio che fa il pane!

Fulvio has also my sourdough addiction and showed me his yeast, one fed on wheat and the other on farro and enkir, both ready for the preparation of bread and focaccia. Finally, a miller that bake bread!

Prima di andare via ho comprato un sacco da 5 kg di "Buratto" e Fulvio mi ha omaggiato di un pò di Enkir Integrale (da lui stesso prelevato durante la molitura). L'Enkir è un grano molto antico, tra i primi cereali addomesticati, un farro piccolo selvatico. Le sue qualità sono la resistenza e l'alto contenuto di carotenoidi.

Before leaving I bought a 5 kg bag of "Buratto" and Fulvio gifted me some Whole Enkir flour (taken by him just out of the mill). Enkir is a very ancient grain, one of the first grains domesticated, a small wild einkorn. His qualities are strength and high content of carotenoids.

Il giorno seguente, con queste farine ho preparato un pane fantastico, quello che cercavo da tanto tempo.

The next day, I baked a wondelful bread with these flours, the one I was looking for so long.

Qui i punti salienti:

  • Una pagnotta da 1.4kg (1.1-1.2kg cotta).
  • Farina Buratto per l'impasto.
  • Due lieviti naturali liquidi al 125% di idratazione, uno di Buratto e l'altro di Enkir Integrale.
  • Un impasto morbido e succoso con idratazione finale del 75%.
  • Impastamento breve con una lunga puntata di 4h cadenzata da 3 piegature.
  • Un appretto lungo a 4°C / 8°C.
  • Cottura su pietra con vapore.
Here the main points:
  • 1.4kg boule (1.1-1.2kg baked). 
  • Buratto flour in the dough.
  • Two liquid levain at 125% hydration, one on Buratto and the other on Whole Enkir.
  • A soft and mellow dough with 75% final hydration.
  • Short mix with 4h of long bulk fermentation with 3 set of folds.
  • A long cold proof at 4°C / 8°C.
  • Baked on stone with steam.

Per ricapitolare:

- 680g Farina Buratto
- 450g Acqua
- 18g Sale Grigio
- 135g Lievito naturale liquido di enkir integrale (60g farina + 75g acqua)
- 135g Lievito naturale liquido di buratto (60g farina + 75g acqua)

To recap:

- 680g Buratto flour
- 450g Water
- 18g Guérande salt
- 135g Liquid levain on whole enkir (60g flour + 75g water)
- 135g Liquid levain on buratto (60g flour + 75g water)

Nella mollica ho finalmente ritrovato intense note fruttate di mostarda, mosto d'uva, vin cotto. Il gusto leggermente acido e dolce allo stesso tempo. La crosta fantastica e la mollica perfettamente fermentata, leggermente umida, translucente e gelatinizzata. Sicuramente tutto ciò è dovuto alle qualità ed alla freschezza degli ingredienti utilizzati.

The crumb has intense fruity notes of mustard, grape must, vin cotto. The taste is a bit sour and sweet at the same time. A wonderfull crust and a perfectly fermented crumb, moisty, translucent and gelatinized. Surely all this is due to the quality and freshness of the ingredients I used.

                             
Mebake's picture
Mebake

This is a late bake from Hamelmans "BREAD", chapter 6: Sourdough Rye with Walnuts, only with Walnuts being left out (no stock). This is essentially a 50% Whole Rye Bread. I used HOVIS bread flour for remaining 50%. most of the Rye inthis recipe is fermented.


Obviously, i have done a lousy job on proofing seem side down. I had hoped to get the artisanal effect that Hansjoakim had: here. Reason may be my boule shaping, DMsnyder would you chime in here for an advise of your boule shaping experience from SBFI?


Having observed Hans Bake, i also increased the hydration to 75% to obtain a somewhat loose dough. I have used Whole Rye instead of Hans Medium Rye.






I haven't tasted the loaf yet, but i trust in hamelman's recipe.


UPDATE: now that i tasted the loaf, it is typical of 50% Whole Rye surdough breads: mild sourness, with earthy rye flavor. I think the walnuts were in the recipe for a reason. I'll add walnuts for sure next time.


khalid

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