The Fresh Loaf

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David Esq.'s picture
David Esq.

It has been more than a year, I believe, since I last tried my hand at an enriched bread.  For this one, I pulled out my trusty 13" USA Pullman Pan, and used the recipe that came with it.  Reproduced here:

 

PULLMAN SANDWICH BREAD

Pan: Pullman Loaf Pan - Large

Ingredients

  • 2/3 cup (5 3/8 ounces) milk
    1 cup (8 ounces) water
    6 tablespoons (3 ounces) butter
    2 1/4 teaspoons salt
    3 tablespoons (1 1/4 ounces) sugar
    1/4 cup (1 1/8 ounces) Baker's Special Dry Milk or nonfat dry milk
    3 tablespoons (1 1/4 ounces) potato flour
    4 3/4 cups (20 ounces) King Arthur Unbleached All-Purpose Flour
    2 teaspoons instant yeast

Directions

In a large bowl, combine the milk, water, butter, salt and sugar. Add the dried milk, flours and yeast, stirring till the dough starts to leave the sides of the bowl. Transfer the dough to a lightly greased surface, oil your hands, and knead it for 5 to 8 minutes, or until it's smooth and supple. Transfer the dough to a lightly greased bowl, cover the bowl, and allow the dough to rise until puffy though not necessarily doubled in bulk, about 1 1/2 hours, depending on the warmth of your kitchen. 

Lightly grease a 13 x 4 USA Pan™ Pullman Loaf Pan. Transfer the risen dough to a lightly greased work surface, shape it into a 13-inch log, and fit it into the pan. Cover the pan with lightly greased plastic wrap, and allow the dough to rise until it's just below the lip of the pan, 45 minutes to 1 hour, depending on the warmth of your kitchen.

Remove the plastic, and carefully place the cover on the pan, let it rest an additional 10 minutes while oven preheats to 350°F. Bake the bread for 25 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven, carefully remove the lid, and return the bread to the oven to bake for an additional 20 minutes, or until it tests done; an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center will register 190°F. Remove the bread from the oven, and turn it out of the pan onto a rack to cool completely.

Yields 1 loaf

http://www.usapans.com/cgi-bin/recipes.cgi?Pullman+Loaf+Pan

http://www.usapans.com/cgi-bin/recipes.cgi?Pullman+Loaf+Pan

This is not my traditional bread, but it was fun and fast to make, and my wife loves the toast it makes.  I tried a PB&J sandwich on it and was very pleased with how it came out.  However, I can't say that it will be replacing my boule any time soon.  It is simply not a remarkable bread.

 
STUinlouisa's picture
STUinlouisa

This week's bake is a side by side comparison of the two heirloom varieties of wheat Red Fife and Turkey Red. The procedure followed closely the epoxy method Peter Reinhart uses in Whole Grain Bread. A soaker was made of half the flour, water and salt which was left at room temperature.  The other half of the flour was mixed with starter and water then put in the fridge after sitting for an hour or so. All amounts, mixing techniques and temperature were exactly the same and both flours were freshly ground.

The next morning after the leaven was allowed to warm the two components were added together along with .25 tsp ADY, a small amount of additional flour, salt and a touch of water to get the doughs to feel right. 4 S&F done 15 min apart, an hour bulk fermentation, shaping, and an hour proof followed. Both were baked at the same time in two DOs starting at 500F lowering to 450F immediately after loading then 425F after uncovering total time was 30 min. These  loaves are half size compared to my normal which is based on 500g flour.

Similarities and differences: Both handled hydration (about 75%) and fermentation the same which somewhat surprised me. The Red Fife flour was fluffier and the Turkey Red was more deeply colored. The Red Fife dough was more elastic,  the Turkey Red more extensible. Both crumbs were light and moist and really good for 100% WW. The Turkey Red has a more nutty taste maybe because of darker pigmentation but the Red Fife also has a pleasant flavor. I think both perform better than more modern wheat when hand mixed and time is used.

It was an interesting experiment but I think the contest was a draw. I intend to keep using both in the future. 

Stu

 

 

 

 

Lazy Loafer's picture
Lazy Loafer

This is one of my favourite simple loaves - Ale & Yeast Poolish from Richard Bertinet's "Crust". The flour is 85% bread flour and 15% whole wheat, and the pre-ferment is a 100% hydration poolish made with ale (in this case, my husband's home made light hoppy ale). The dough is a dream to handle and it always behaves so well! The crumb tends to be fairly open and creamy, though the bread tastes quite different from a naturally leavened (i.e. 'sourdough') bread with similar blend of flour and same hydration.

I can't post a photo of the crumb today - this loaf (and 5 of its siblings) is for the little bread shop. :)

Zhiface's picture
Zhiface

After finding out my son has somewhat severe dairy and egg allergies it's really gotten me to realize how hard it is to find pre made foods that don't come in contact with either of these. My mom always baked bread growing up so I had some idea how to do it, but for some reason my dough is never the same as hers, even though I use her recipe. 

so I've began to make breads, they aren't quite what I'm aiming for so every friday I plan to experiment a little bit until I've found something im happy with. 

 

I made a basic white bread this week it was okay, I am going to keep making it until I get it right. the finished bread was a bit too soft and the loaves weren't as big as I had hoped. I'm also having trouble shaping them so they are nice and smooth looking I think this is because my dough is so sticky. 

 

im not really sure what any of that means, I think im going to try adding more flour next time. 

 

this  the recipe I'm using - not quite the same as my moms I changed it a bit. I use a mixer. 

1.5 tbsp active dry yeast, 1 tbsp sugar, 1 cup warm water - mix together and let the yeast bubble away. 

1/3 cup oil (lately I've been using lard and I think it makes my dough softer), 1/2 cup(minus 1 tbsp) white sugar, 1 tsp salt - be together until thick. 

Once the yeast is ready I add that to the oil mixture and combine. I then add 3.5 cups of warm water and 4 cups of flour. Once this comes together I switch to my dough hook and add roughly 5 cups of flour until the dough is a bit sticky but cleans the sides of the bowl and I let it knead for 5 minutes.  then rest in an oiled bowl covered with a tea towel in the oven for about 20 minutes. Punch and rest 20 again. Form loaves and rest again then bake at 350 until golden on top. 

Im not really sure if my recipe is missing anything or if ratios are right but it's a work in progress 

i also made some pulled pork stuffed buns. mmm delicious! I will be doing that again  

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

After the last over bake of no levain, old school pumpernickel which made a brick that couldn’t be cut with a ban saw, Lucy decided to go back to 3 starters for this bake.  We had some left over olives from the New Year’s pizza and we have always wanted to make SD version of that dough to bake as an olive Italian style bread or focaccia.  We finally got around to it.

 

We followed our usual procedure of 3 stage, 12 hour levain build but no retard of the levain this time.  We did our usual 1 hour autolyze with the dough flour and water with the salt sprinkled on top.  Once the levain hot the mix we did 3 stets each of 30 slap and folds and 4 stretch and folds on 30 minute intervals with the olives, sun dried tomatoes and rosemary going in during the first set of stretch and folds.

We did not use a heating pad to speed things up this time and just let the 68 F kitchen temperature do its thing.  We let the dough bulk ferment for an hour in an oiled bowl before shaping and placing the bread in a rice floured batard basket for an 18 hour, shaped cold retard in the fridge.

We unmolded and slashed the batard before baking it at 450 F on a stone with Mega Steam for 15 minutes after warming up and finishing proofing on the counter for 3 hours the next morning.   We turned the oven down to 425 F convection and continued baling for 15 more minutes after the steam came out.

It sprang blistered and bloomed well under steam and browned up nicely after the steam came out.  We will wait for the crumb shot and hope it is better than the last bake.  

This is one tasty bread.  The olives really come through as do the sun dried tomato and rosemary.  An Italian table in one bite.  The crumb is open, soft and moist.  We like the sour and the thin crust too.  We like this bread a lot.  Can't wait to grill it and dip it.

 

SD Levain Build

Build 1

Build 2

 Build 3

Total

%

5 Week Retarded Rye Sour

5

0

0

5

1.11%

Witch Yeast

6

0

0

6

1.33%

Cooked Potato Starter

6

0

0

6

1.33%

20% Extraction 10 grain

20

0

0

20

4.43%

80 % Extraction 10 Grain

0

20

31

51

11.31%

Water

20

20

31

71

15.74%

Total

57

40

62

159

35.25%

      

Levain Totals

 

%

   

Whole 10  Grain

80

17.74%

   

Water

80

17.74%

   

Levain Hydration

100.00%

    
      

Dough Flour

 

%

   

LaFama AP

260

57.65%

   

Durum Semolina

80

17.74%

   

80 % Extraction 10 Grain

31

6.87%

   

 

 

 

   

Salt

9

2.00%

   

Dough Water

257

56.98%

   
      

Dough Hydration

69.27%

    

Total Flour w/ Starters

451

    

Total Water

337

    
      

Mixed Olives

115

25.50%

   
      

Hydration with Starter

74.72%

    

Total Weight

962

    

% Whole 10  Grain

24.61%

    
      

10 grain flour is equal amounts: Pima Club, barley, spelt,

  

Sonora White, einkorn, Kamut, rye, oat , wheat & emmer

  
      

1 T each of sun dried tomatoes re-hydrated and Rosemary

  

 

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

Recently, some one posted a comparison of the Tartine breads and those of Ken Forkish. This reminded me how long it had been since I had baked a Tartine Basic Country Bread. I can't find that TFL entry now, but it doesn't matter ... even if it was just in my imagination. Here's what happened:

These loaves are still cooling. I will post a crumb photo and tasting notes when I slice one.

I also baked a couple of San Joaquin Sourdough bâtards. These were cold retarded 36 hours and have been frozen to eat later.

Looking through Tartine: Bread, I am reminded that there are a number of breads there that look wonderful and that I have never  made. I guess I will add them near the top of my "to bake list."

Happy New Year, and Happy Baking to the TFL community!

David

Lazy Loafer's picture
Lazy Loafer

This is one of my favourite breads at this time of year. It smells just like stuffing and makes the best leftover turkey sandwiches! It's also great with turkey soup. This is a naturally leavened bread made with fresh, ripe sourdough starter so you can only imagine the smell permeating my kitchen when this bakes - sourdough bread with sage and onions! I usually bake the bread in the Italian bread pans in long loaves, but wanted to see how it turned out baked in the cast iron pots. In a word, it turned out good!

I used 100% hydration bread flour starter, fed and left to ripen overnight. The basic ingredient list is pretty simple:

  • 85% bread flour (I use Rogers Silver Star bread flour)
  • 15% whole wheat flour
  • 70% water (warmed to around 90 degrees)
  • 2% sea salt
  • 25% starter

Note that the overall hydration is higher than 70% as I just calculate the percentage of starter as a single ingredient, without breaking it down into flour and water percentages. As the starter is 100% hydration this affects the overall dough hydration. It works, at any rate.

The added ingredients are onion and sage. For the onion, I rehydrate dehydrated minced onion in an equal amount of boiling water and let it sit until cool. Use as much as you want (probably around a quarter cup of rehydrated onion per 750 gram loaf). The sage is sometimes chopped fresh sage from my garden, and sometimes rubbed dried sage from the bulk store, depending on the season.

Mix the flours, water and starter well and let sit for 30 minutes or so. Add salt, onion and sage and incorporate well, using whatever method suits you best. I sometimes do this in my stand mixer, and sometimes use Ken Forkish's method (folding and pincering; see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HoY7CPw0E1s).

I stretch and fold the dough three or four times over the next couple of hours, and the rest varies depending on what kind of time I have available or what my schedule is. This last batch was fermented at room temperature for about four hours, then in the fridge for another three or four hours. I then shaped it and put it in baskets lined with floured napkins (seam side down as per Ken Forkish). We then went out to see Star Wars and I left the proofing loaves, tucked into plastic bags, in the cool basement. My starter tends to be very vigorous so I didn't want them to overproof.

Once home, I pre-heated the cast iron pots in the oven at 475 degrees, for about 45 minutes. The loaves went into the pots seam side up so I didn't have to score them (they bloom naturally at the seams). 20 minutes with lids on, then another 20 minutes with lids off. The bottom crust was very dark, the top was awesome and the interior temperature was around 205 degrees. They sang as they cooled and I went to bed (late) with the scent of fresh bread filling my head!

This morning I cut a couple of slices to take to work with me, along with a pot of home made turkey soup. Very impressed with the crumb - it was moist, creamy and shiny. I had thought the dough was under-proofed when I put it in the oven, but any more proofing and it would have been a bit too holey for me. All in all, a success!

 

 

JennyBakesBread's picture
JennyBakesBread

The last of the stollen and speculaas biscuits have been eaten. The Christmas decorations are back in their box gathering dust. The weather in Manchester is about as depressing as physically possible so it must be time for the first few loaves of 2015.

50% Whole Wheat

A 50% Whole wheat, 50% high extraction, 87.5% hydration loaf

WW_050116_2WW_050116_4

 

10% Rye

A light country bread with a sprinkling of rye - 40% high extraction flour, 40% White flour, 10% whole wheat and 10% Rye.

R10_050116_3

 

The loaves got the 'Stegosaurus' score as the loaf seemed quite delicate and I didn't trust myself to score it with a fruit knife!!

 

R10_050116_7

 

Happy Baking!

A longer write up can be found here jennybakesbread.blogspot.co.uk/2016/01/basic-whole-wheat-and-10-rye.html

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

After Gerhard posted the video of a Westphalian bakery making old school pumpernickel the same way since 1537I knew Lucy would be getting it on the bake list pretty fast since she claims the only real bread is pumpernickel if you are German like her.

 

The recipe for this one is about as short and easy as it gets – rye meal and water at 100% hydration and 2% salt.  Lucy, being the con conformist and whack job she is wont to be couldn’t leave it alone and added 12% scalded rye berries and 5% aromatic seeds where half were caraway and the other half equal amounts of anise, coriander and fennel.

But that is it.  No sourdough, no yeast.  It is then baked low and slow in monstrous Pullman pans for 24 hours in the video.  I was making a tiny one, in a cocktail pan totaling 981 g with everything in it. So I cut the baking time down to 12 hours total – 1 ½ hours at 325 F and 10 ½ hours at 225 F.

This is a mix everything, autolyze for 1 hour and dump it in the pan recipe.  Then I covered it with foil to keep the moisture in and then put the pan in a pot with 1 1/2“ of water in the bottom and then covered the pot with foil too.  Then into the mini oven it went.  You don’t want this bread to dry out because it will become harder than a brick and last longer than one as a building material too.

Not only is this a fine eating bread but it has to be the most aromatic one when baking too.  The smell is intoxicating and addicting.   The foil stuck to the top on one edge and discolored that spot.  This one needs to sit for 24-48 hours before slicing if you want 1/8th” slices like Lucy does.  So now we wait and then wait some more as the wrapped bread redistributes its retained moisture.

The holidays scream for a an eggnog cheese cake with a gingersnap crust to go with those pork ribs and salad.

 

 

alfanso's picture
alfanso

In my most recent entry, dabrownman urged/challenged me to make David Snyder's Pugliese Capriccioso boule as baguettes.  So what is a boy to do?  Hmm.

At 74.5% hydration to go along with a 75% AP : 25%Durum flour mix and 20% levain, it seemed like a fine idea.  I had to sneak this one in somewhat quickly as:

  • My brother and his wife will be here and I planned on having a batch of David's sesame semolina levain still warm on their arrival Thursday evening
  • I seem to have little control over my desire/need to bake another batch of baguettes.  I'm just starting therapy on this one now...

Violating David's instructions somewhat, I used my standard 75% hydration levain and added a few more grams of water to the mix to bring the hydration back up, finished up the bulk ferment cycle with a cold retard, divided, shaped and couched the dough overnight, and finally baked right out of the refrigerator this morning.  Timings were 13 minutes under steam, 14 minutes more and then 2 minutes of venting - 29 minutes total at 460dF.

The sesame baguette was my version of being "capriccioso" or whimsical.  I didn't particularly like my pre-shape of that baguette, so I figured that I'd bury the evidence under a layer of sesame seeds.

The dough was initially quite smooth at the outset of my French Folds, but quickly seemed to get a bit sticky and stay that way through the first set of Letter Folds before loosing the tackiness for good.  All the while the dough remained quite extensible.

Now that I've tasted it, I concur with David's assessment - nutty and sweet.

Once more, I implore you folks.  For those of you who are Dutch Oven bound, and for good reason considering the excellent results that get posted on TFL with regularity:  Try getting out of the pot, so to speak, and do some couched batard and baguette shaping and scoring to expand the repertoire and experience.  It may be a bit frustrating at first (I should know!), but you might just enjoy the freedom and change of pace.

Crumb shot added

alan

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