Three-Stage 80% Sourdough Rye Bread from Hamelman's "Bread"
One of my thoughts in purchasing a Brød & Taylor Folding Proofer was that I would be able to make Three-Stage Detmolder rye breads with more precise temperature control than I could otherwise achieve. After using this device for fermenting other starters, fermenting doughs and proofing loaves over the past couple of months, I my first rye by the three-stage Detmolder method employing the Folding Proofer this weekend.
My one previous bake of a Detmolder 3-stage rye was almost 3 years ago. (See: http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/12742/hamelman039s-70-3stage-rye-sourdough [1]) I do recall that bread as having a delicious, sweet, earthy, complex flavor. The bread I baked this weekend was the very similar 80% Three-Stage Rye from Bread. This bread has an hydration of 78%. 37.8% of the flour is pre-fermented.
As described by Jeffrey Hamelman in Bread (pg. 200), this method, developed in Germany, “develops the latent potential of a mature rye culture through a series of builds,” each of which optimizes the development of yeast growth, lactic acid and acetic acid production, respectively. The builds differ in hydration, fermentation temperature and length of fermentation.
Hamelman calls the three stages or builds “Freshening,” “Basic Sour” and “Full Sour.” The first build encourages yeast multiplication in a moist paste fermented at a moderate temperature. The second build is much firmer and is fermented for a long time at a relatively cool temperature to generate acetic acid. The third build is, again, moister, and it is fermented at a warm temperature for a short time. This build is to increase the lactic acid content of the sour. After that, the final dough is mixed.
Freshening | Wt (g) | Baker's % |
Medium Rye flour | 8 | 100 |
Water | 12 | 150 |
Mature rye culture | 4 | 50 |
Total | 24 |
|
Ferment 5-6 hours at 77-79º F.
Basic Sour | Wt (g) | Baker's % |
Medium Rye flour | 100 | 100 |
Water | 76 | 76 |
Freshening sour | 24 | 24 |
Total | 200 |
|
Ferment 15-24 hours at 73-80º F. (Shorter time at higher temperature.)
Full Sour | Wt (g) | Baker's % |
Medium Rye flour | 270 | 100 |
Water | 270 | 100 |
Basic sour | 200 | 74.1 |
Total | 740 |
|
Ferment 3-4 hours at 85º F.
Final Dough | Wt (g) |
Medium Rye flour | 422 |
High-gluten flour | 200 |
Water | 422 |
Salt | 18 |
Instant yeast (optional) | 8 |
Full sour | 740 |
Total | 1810 |
Procedures
Mix all ingredients 4 minutes at Speed 1 then 1-1 1/2 minutes at Speed 2. DDT=82-84º F. (Note: Hamelman's times are for a spiral mixer. If using a KitchenAid, I double these mixing times.)
Bulk ferment for 10-20 minutes.
Divide into 1.5-2.5 lb pieces and shape round.
Proof about 1 hour at 85º F.
Dock the loaves. Bake for 10 minutes at 480-490º F with steam for the first 5 minutes, then lower temperature to 410º F and bake 40-45 minutes for a 1.5 lb loaf and about 1 hour for a 2.5 lb loaf.
Cool on a rack. When fully cooled, wrap in linen and let rest for at least 24 hours before slicing.
These loaves scaled to 807 g. After baking and cooling, each weighed 700 g.
Crumb and loaf profile
Slices
I sliced the bread after it had sat, wrapped in linen, for 24 hours. The crust was chewy, and the crumb was moist and tender. The flavor was very mellow and balanced. It was not as sweet as I remember the 3-stage 70% rye being, but that was 3 years ago(!). The sourdough tang was present but subdued. A lovely flavor.
I had been planning on leaving the loaves unsliced for another 12 hours, but my wife decided she wanted rye with smoked salmon as an appetizer for dinner. How could I refuse such a tempting proposition?
Delicious!
I also made a couple loaves of Hamelman's Pain au Levain today. As simple and straight-forward as it is, this is one of my favorite breads.
Pain au Levain bâtards
Pain au Levain crust
Pain au Levain crumb
David
Submitted to YeastSpotting [2]