Russian and German Ryes
Detmolder stage 2, Russian Rye production sourdough, new wheat starter, 200% rye starter
Denial is more than a river in Egypt. When I came back from vacation at the beginning of September, my starter of over a year was only clinging to life after having lived through a power failure of indeterminate length due to a hurricane. I slowly nursed it back to life only to lose interest while exploring baking with 100% durum. The breads I made from time to time with my trusty wheat starter were getting weaker and weaker until finally they stopped rising altogether. I was forced to admit the sad truth: my starter died of neglect. I decided to start over again with a new wheat starter. Meanwhile I got Andrew Whitley's book - Bread Matters - and was onto a new project - getting a 200% hydration rye starter going and raising bread. Fortunately Juergen stepped in with a tutorial [1]on how it's done. I had hope that with patience I could do it too. Then a Noreaster paid an unexpected visit and there I was with two new starters sitting on the counter with no light, no heat, and a very bored and upset eleven year old with no school to go to since the power was out there too. This would have been a good time to let the new starters die as well, but somehow I fit in a few feedings during the four day power outage, and lo and behold when the lights turned on yesterday afternoon they were both not only alive but doing well. In fact the rye starter was frothing - the state I've been awaiting for a few weeks. I decided to try again (#5?) with Whitley's Russian Rye. At the same time, I decided to go back to a formula I had tried almost a year ago, Detmolder's 3 Stage 90% Rye in Hamelman (p. 201) because I was interested in the contrast between the Russian and German ryes. So I mixed up stage 2 of the Detmolder (I went straight to stage 2 because I was making only one loaf which would have called for just 2 g seed starter in stage 1) and the production sourdough for the Russian Rye and was ready to go today. The Russian Rye went exactly as directed. The recipe calls for 200% hydration rye starter, and 103% total hydration so it isn't a dough in any sense but rather a paste as Andy terms it. The German Rye has a bit of high gluten flour (10% of total) in the final dough, but is also high hydration - 79% - so not much doughier and sorta kinda shapable but not really. Since so much fermentation takes place during the starter stages bulk ferment is only 10 minutes and proof is an hour, whereas for the Russian Rye, there is no bulk ferment and proof is according to Whitley anywhere from 2 to 8 hours. Mine took 3 hours.
German is round, Russian is rectangular
Formulas:
Russian Rye |
|
|
|
|
Andrew Whitley |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
11/2/2011 |
| 8:00 PM |
|
|
Production Sourdough |
|
|
| |
Seed | 50 |
| Total |
|
Whole Rye | 17 | 150 | 167 | 100% |
Water | 33 | 300 | 333 | 200% |
|
|
| 500 |
|
11/3/2011 | 8:30 AM |
|
|
|
| Final | Starter | Total | Percent |
Medium Rye | 330 |
| 330 | 69% |
Whole Rye |
| 147 | 147 | 31% |
Water | 200 | 293 | 493 | 103% |
Salt | 5 |
| 5 | 1.0% |
Prod SD | 440 |
|
| 31% |
|
|
| 975 |
|
Mix production sourdough at least 12 hours in advance. Mix final dough and place in bread pan. Proof until it softens (3 hours for me.) No docking or scoring. Bake at 480F for 10 minutes with steam, 50 minutes without at 410.
3-Stage 90% Rye |
|
|
|
| |
Hamelman |
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 11/2/2011 | 11/3/2011 |
|
|
|
| 8:00 PM | 9:30 AM |
|
|
Starter |
|
|
|
|
|
Seed | 12 |
|
| Total | Percent |
Whole Rye | 6 | 50 |
| 56 | 29% |
Medium Rye |
| 135 | 135 | 71% | |
Water | 6 | 39 | 135 | 180 | 94% |
|
|
|
| 371 |
|
11/3/2011 | 1:00 PM |
|
|
|
|
| Final | Starter | Total | Percent |
|
Medium Rye | 261 | 135 | 396 | 79% |
|
Whole Rye |
| 56 | 56 | 11% |
|
High Gluten | 50 |
| 50 | 10% |
|
Water | 215 | 180 | 395 | 79% |
|
Salt | 9 |
| 9 | 1.8% |
|
Starter | 371 |
|
| 38% |
|
|
|
| 906 |
|
|
Please read Hamelman for starter directions - they're complicated. Mix final dough and bulk ferment for 10 minutes. Transfer to oiled bowl for proof. Proof until dough softens. Flip (and coax out of bowl) to parchment paper on peel. Bake at 480F for 10 minutes with steam, 40 minutes at 410F without.
Frustratingly, I have to wait to cut for a day. Crumb shots to follow.
And here they are:
Russian Rye
German Rye
As for taste, the Russian Rye is very moist. It has a slightly tart flavor and in general is packed with flavor. I just had a slice without anything on it, and it was so flavorful it didn't need anything. The German Rye is more what I'm used to as far as rye goes. I grew up on Jewish Rye, and it tastes very similar to that, even though Jewish Rye has much lower percentage of Rye than this. It is a very tasty bread, but I would not eat a slice without a topping of some sort. If someone stuck a gun to my head and I had to choose (who would do such a thing - a crazed baker?) I would pick the Russian hands down. It is so good that I am very reluctant to fiddle with it. It tastes like a rye pudding only in bread form. Really incredibly delicious.
And finally the storm:
It's January in October