Semolina [Durum] Bread and Sourdough Seed Bread
Semolina [Durum] Bread and Sourdough Seed Bread.
I've been home-based all Easter weekend, so I decided on Thursday that I would make an inroad into the Hamelman Challenge set up by Brian: see http://thebreadchallenge.weebly.com/ [1]
I've already done quite a bit on baguettes for the Lesaffre Cup I was involved in http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/17118/competing-louis-lesaffre-cup [2] and I posted last weekend on the Horst Bandel Black Pumpernickel http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/17254/horst-bandel039s-balck-pumpernickel [3]
I'm posting all the production details and photographs below. I haven't been totally faithful to Hamelman's formula, but will point out where and why at the relevant points.
Semolina [Durum] Bread
Hamelman, Jeffrey 2004 "Bread: A Baker's Book of Techniques and Recipes" New Jersey; John Wiley and Sons. pp.135-136
Recipe and Formula:
Material |
Formula [% of flour] |
Recipe [grams] |
"Sponge" |
|
|
Strong White Bread Flour |
19.7 |
365 |
Water |
13.8 |
255 |
Sugar |
1.9 |
36 |
Biga Naturale [from stock] |
34.9 [flour 20.6; water 14.3] |
644 [flour 380; water 264] |
TOTAL |
70.3 |
1300 |
|
|
|
Final Dough |
|
|
"Sponge" from above |
70.3 |
1300 |
Strong White Flour |
29.85 |
550 |
Semolina |
29.85 |
550 |
Water |
33.5 |
620 |
Salt |
1.8 |
33 |
Olive Oil |
4.9 |
91 |
TOTAL |
170.2 |
3144 |
Pre-fermented flour: 40.3%. Hydration: 61.6%
Method:
- As you can see, the first change I made is that I used "Biga Naturale" in this recipe instead of a sponge. Partly because I had some old biga in stock, partly because Alison, my wife, is happier if I can keep the bakers' yeasts out of the formula. I had about 150g of biga in stock, so fed that to give me sufficient for the 644g needed for the recipe, plus some to keep back for another day. I did this "élaboration" approx. 16 hours before making the "sponge".
- The sponge was made at 28°C, but given 2½ hours to ripen. It would have taken a little more than this, but was obviously active. The original recipe specifies 1¼ hours, but it uses bakers' yeast.
- The next change I made was that I used an "autolyse" technique with the semolina only. Let me explain that the semolina I used would be quite different to the type the author would most likely be considering for his recipe. I buy the semolina from a local miller in Northumberland. It is coarse and gritty, and quite a bit more brown than the golden varieties sold in UK supermarkets. I love it; it's a great way to use up some of the by-products from making this gentleman's very fine pizza/ciabatta flour. I mentioned the Gilchesters Organic Flour in this post: http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/15974/sour-dough-leaven-refreshment-and-ash-content [4] I wanted to try and maintain the hydration levels of the original formula [62%]. In order to do this I exchanged the durum used by Hamelman in the sponge for strong white flour. Given the durum wheat used in the US will be a very hard grain, and the Gilchesters grain is grown in the North of England, which is hardly our "bread basket", you can maybe understand my switch.
- The autolyse worked really well. The semolina is very coarse and unrefined, so a good soak allowed for plenty of absorption.
- I mixed the dough by hand, achieving a DDT of 24°C, as required. The dough was strong, and I gave it plenty of work on the bench.
- From there I followed the recipe directions, using 1½ hours bulk, with a stretch and fold at the mid-point.
- I made 3 large loaves in bannetons and set aside for final proof.
- I baked these breads after 2½ hours final fermentation, again, due to the biga, fermentation time was a good hour longer; I was happy with this. The oven had been pre-heated for nearly 2 hours, and I used steam by pouring boiling water onto a pan of hot stones. I set the bread at 240°C, dropped to 200 after 15 minutes, then to 180°C after 40 minutes for the remainder of the bake.
- The finished loaves are pictured below. The largest loaf, pictured with the long fan cuts, actually weighed in at 1.4kg. I baked it nearly an hour, directly on the hot bricks in my oven. It was still ever-so slightly doughy on the very base when we came to eat it yesterday. Maybe I should have given the "sponge" an extra half hour afterall? Anyway; the taste is fabulous, and I am really happy to have learnt another use for the semolina I buy. Up until now it's only been used for dusting purposes!
This is the semolina I used
Sourdough Seed Bread
Hamelman, Jeffrey 2004 "Bread: A Baker's Book of Techniques and Recipes" New Jersey; John Wiley and Sons. pp.176-177
Recipe and Formula:
Material |
Formula [% of flour] |
Recipe [grams] |
Liquid Levain |
|
|
Strong White Flour |
15 |
250 |
Water |
19 |
315 |
Levain [from stock] |
- |
50 [flour 22; water 28] |
TOTAL |
34 |
615 - 50 returned to stock = 565 |
|
|
|
Rye Sour [from stock] |
|
|
Dark Rye Flour |
7.8 |
130 |
Water |
13 |
217 |
TOTAL |
20.8 |
347 |
|
|
|
Soaker |
|
|
Golden Flax Seeds |
7 |
117 |
Water - boiling |
21 |
350 |
TOTAL |
28 |
467 |
|
|
|
Final Dough |
|
|
Liquid Levain |
34 |
565 |
Rye Sour |
20.8 |
347 |
Hot Soaker |
28 |
467 |
Strong White Flour |
60.1 |
1000 |
Strong Wholemeal Flour |
17.1 |
285 |
Toasted Sunflower Seeds |
11.4 |
190 |
Toasted Sesame Seeds |
6 |
100 |
Water |
22 |
368 |
Salt |
2 [1.6% inc seeds] |
33 |
TOTAL |
201.4 |
3355 |
Pre-fermented flour: 22.8%. Hydration: 75% [64% including seeds]
Method:
- Make the rye sour 16 hours ahead of making the final dough; DDT 21°C
- Use one élaboration to make the levain needed, then make the levain 12 hours before making the final dough. DDT 21°C
- Make the hot soaker at the same time. Cover with cling film and leave to cool overnight. The original recipe uses a cold soaker.
- Toast the sesame and sunflower seeds under the grill, turning as necessary, until lightly browned
- Combine all the ingredients to form the final dough. Mix by hand for 10 minutes to achieve a well-developed dough of 24°C.
- Bulk ferment for 2½ hours, with one stretch and fold midway through this period.
- Divide the dough into 3 equal sized pieces and mould round. Rest, covered for 10 minutes. Prepare 2 large bread tins, lined with shortening. Shape 2 loaves for the tins and pan them. Place the other piece upside down in a prepared banneton.
- Prove overnight in the fridge at 8°C.
- In the morning, pre-heat the oven for one hour whilst the loaves come back to room temperature. Use steam, by pouring boiling water onto a pan of hot stones.
- Set the loaf in the banneton and bake that first. Then baked the 2 tinned loaves after that. Baking time will be 45 -50 minutes; set at 240°C, reduce the heat to 200°C after 15 minutes, then 180°C after 40 minutes for the remainder of the bake.
Variations here are as follows: I used rye sour rather than rye flour. Hamelman's original formula utilises just 15% pre-fermented flour. I wanted more than this, and will always seek to use rye in a pre-fermented form if possible. Hydration level is as the original recipe. I also used a small portion of wholemeal in the final dough, where Hamelman uses all-white flour. The intensity of my baking session [I'd also made filo pastry for my wife to use to make Spanokopita for our Easter Monday visitors] meant I'd run out of white flour. However, I was more than happy to use the wholemeal. The final bread is not at all heavy, nor sour. It is very "moreish", and is being eaten at quite a rate.
All good wishes
Andy