The Zoia Panettone Challenge

- Recipe from “Non Solo Zucchero” by Iginio Massari

Iginio Massari a name much revered in the world of Panettone yet his mentor, Achille Zoia is lesser known, but to his credit a speciality flour formulated to accommodate Zoia’s technological liking bears his name… “Panettone Z” produced by Molino Dallagiovanna is the flour of choice being favoured by many maestri for its excellent extensibility.

Publications “Cresci” and “Non Solo Zucchero” authored by Massari both feature recipes from Zoia and these stand out with respect to their formulation and presentation, typically not including any flour in the second mix, favouring high levels of sugar while utilising minimal egg content and ultimately preferring basso forms. This bold approach in omitting additional flour in the final mix appears unique with respect to the typical formulations and presents a considerable challenge to the amateur…

Where a challenge presents itself, there is this baker full of zeal! I tackled his Paradise Panettone many years ago and at that time it took several attempts and felt very difficult to achieve success, often falling from the mould, but with repetition I would find salvation.

*Honey was infused with flavourings; candied orange paste, orange zest and vanilla extract.

Crumb: Some minor defects but otherwise showing good alveolation. It might not look it, but tearing into it, the texture is feathery bread shred. A clean cut no crumbles.

The dough received 3 sets of pre-shape rounds / stretch & folds while resting on the counter in what is technically a bulk fermentation period prior to placing in the mould. After about 90 minutes, enough strength was achieved to diminish spreading and encourage it to rise upwards with vigour.

Experience with this formula demonstrates it makes for a weaker final dough, since all the flour is fermented in the primo impasto. This leads to a less oomph in the final rise, losing its strength as it reaches the high heights when using the alto forms. This weakness shows itself as large bubbles that begin to emerge at the surface.

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50% hydration refreshed mother leaven (lievito madre rinfresco).

Preparing the mother for the overnight rest in water.

Even with a pH too low, this bake ticked all the boxes, delicately light, soft, rich, and sweet but also full of flavour and rounded off by a sense of nourishing satiety.

To all the panettone bakers out there, I present to you the Zoia Panettone Challenge…

Grilling season is upon on us!  The weather is finally feeling like spring so some tasty rolls are in order for burgers and other tasty sandwiches.

I made a sweet levain by adding some dark maple syrup (the real stuff only of course) to some KAF bread flour and my stiff starter.

For the main dough some fresh milled Rouge De Bordeaux whole wheat was sifted and milled twice along with some fresh milled spelt which was  sifted  once and milled twice.  Some  more KAF bread flour rounded out the flour mix.

More dark maple syrup was also added along with some rolled oats and cottage cheese.  The total hydration of the dough takes the 81% water content of the cottage cheese and 33% water content of  the maple syrup.  The dough was nicely hydrated and very silky after fully mixing.

I have to say, these turned out amazing.  I added some grated Vermont Cheddar cheese to some rolls and some black sesame seeds and toasted onions as well.  Forget those tasteless supermarket rolls and make a batch of these for your next cookout!

Formula

Mix all the levain ingredients together for about 1 minute and cover with plastic wrap.  Let it sit at room temperature for around 5-8 hours or until the starter has doubled.  I usually do this the night before.

Either use in the main dough immediately or refrigerate for up to 1 day before using.

 Main Dough Procedure

Mix the flour with about 90% of the water holding some back for after the autolyze for about a minute.  Let the dough autolyze for up to an hour.  After an hour add the salt, cottage cheese, maple syrup and additional water as needed.  If using an Ankarsrum mix on medium low for 15 – 20 minutes until you have a well developed dough.  If using another mixer you can mix as needed until you have a well developed dough.  Remove the dough from your bowl and place it in a lightly oiled bowl or work surface and do several stretch and folds.   After a total of 1.45 hours place your covered bowl in the refrigerator and let it rest for 12 to 24 hours. (Note: I use my proofer set at 80 F, so if you are leaving the dough out at room temperature you may want to let it proof for longer.  The goal is not to have the dough double but maybe rise about 1/3 at most and it will do the rest in the refrigerator.

When you are ready to bake remove the bowl from the refrigerator and let it set out at room temperature still covered for 1 hour.  Remove the dough and shape into rolls around 135-145 grams each for nice size burger buns.  Cover the rolls with a moist tea towel or plastic wrap Sprayed with cooking spray and let rise for 1 1/2 at around 80 degrees.  The rolls should be nice and puffy and increase in size about 30-40%

Around 45 minutes before ready to bake, pre-heat your oven to 450 degrees F. and prepare it for steam.  I have a heavy-duty baking pan on the bottom rack of my oven with 1 baking stone on above the pan and one on the top shelf.  I pour 1 cup of boiling water in the pan right after I place the dough in the oven.

Right  you are ready to put them in the oven, apply an egg wash if desired and add any toppings you desire. Next add 1 cup of boiling water to your steam pan or follow your own steam procedure.

After 1 minute lower the temperature to 425 degrees.  Bake for 25 minutes or until the rolls are nice and brown.

Take the rolls out of the oven when done and let them cool on a bakers rack for as long as you can resist.

Hello folks - I just moved from UK to Spain along with my trust Panasonic SDD255 breadmaker.

I would appreciate guidance to sourcing flour, yeast and baking enhancer as substitutes for the brands I was familiar with in UK to bake for my household and friends. 

I live in the Malaga area so I am looking for any specialist outlets as well as online sources. My Spanish is not yet fluent although I can read/translate

Many thanks