Hobart c-210
Hi All,
I need help. Have a 1937 Hobart C-210 mixer. Had some problems so decided to "rebuild" it cautiously since parts are hard to come by.
I did not pull the transmission gears out of the case, but now I think I have to do so. Putting it back together I discovered that the key that slides in the transmission shifting keyway is broken, and is very hard to move--hard to shift gears.
I am not the first to do this on this forum, but many of the pictures are missing that describe how people have solved the challenges of removing the main transmission gears. The picture above is the gear on the backside of the main transmission. I believe that whole assembly needs to be pulled off to free up the transmission gear shaft. There are references on here about devices to pull that gear--but links are all dead. A regular gear puller will not reach behind that big circular gear to get purchase to pull it out.
I am interested in any and all help to get this sucker apart so I can fix the gear changing mechanism.
Have you looked at a Pitman arm puller? Some of these have much longer reach in under Alternatively, you could rig up something like a crankshaft puller setup where you bolt down into a plate set under the radial ribs. This would work better with the elliptical ribs as it would give an even force speed across multiple ribs and removes the risk of slipping out.
I have been putting off opening mine, but it is getting close to time where a service is needed. Sadly, there are not many resources for these. If you wouldn't mind sharing, I would love to see more images of the insides and you thoughts on any pitfalls you find.
P.S. Was the damage to those screw heads done by someone earlier? If you do need to work on those, I would suggest getting a hollow ground screwdriver with a wide enough blade to fully seat in the slot. You will kick yourself if they get any worse. The time I had to replace a screw on the old Hobart casting, the threads of the modern screw just never fit the same.
Noted about screw heads. Those are the worst so far. Had to use a impact driver on some, but screwdriver was well fit and no damage.
This is my first foray into repairing a Hobart. Have done some woodworking machine rebuilds. Company was very helpful. And those were early 1900's machines. Found manuals, etc. So this has been a little frustrating.
The fiber gear that is on motor shaft is expensive. Some guy on Ebay is selling one for $200. If you cannot get that then someone has to fabricate from scratch, $6-800. Hobart probably sold it for 15 cents.
All the planetary stuff was easy to take off. Two bearings on the main planetary shaft had a bearing number stamped on them, $15 or so to replace. And they turn very nicely now!
The lift mechanism easy to take apart, clean, buff up, paint and regrease.
My switch is broken, fell apart on last use which led to this saga. Have found a couple likely replacements on Ebay, not too expensive, will try. Should not be hard to fit one of them.
Gasket material. Measured thickness of paper-like gaskets and found some similar material on Amazon. Seems to work OK.
Oh I should also say that the grease was a bear to get off. Two gallons of DEP grease remover--also removed the paint! And boiling all the parts with a quart of Palmolive dish soap, then multiple rinses got almost everything nearly grease free.
A friend recommended I not take out the main transmission gears, they seemed to turn fine, smooth, no rough spots. So if it was not for this broken key in the gear shifting mechanism I would leave those alone. Worked very hard with a variety of small brushes to get all the gunk out.
Found a place to re-tin my bowl, but will wait on that to see if I can get it all to work first.
I see some people got their mixture powder coated. I went cheap route, good surface prep and primer and paint. We will see how that ages.
So will post more pictures later.
Thank you for that. Nice to see inside and you realise it really is more kitchen machine rather than an appliance.
Painting is probably wise....my variant is a little more insane that the stock US models and I can't seem to find a color that really works for it. They all seem to make it look like an awkward assemblage of parts. Interesting when I render it in chrome it totally works.
Sadly replacement parts are going to be custom and that means expense. Although I would say, regardless of price, these machines are worth it.
When you get it up and running, I can totally recommend the 10qt pastry knife by superdoughhook. It is the missing beater for these machines. Great mixing blade, especially good at mixing pasta and also affective for developing gluten in high hydration doughs and panettone. It has become my most used beater by far.
Is there a specific model of pastry knife that you know works with the C-210? That link sends me to a page full of dough hooks and pastry blades. THANKS!
It is listed as - JP33A SS
eBay listing or on their website (just scroll down to JP33A)
I think the photos on the web are a little distorted (on my computer they appear squished in one axis) but IRL it is amazing.
PS. my best flat screwdriver is an antique. There is something about its tip that means it never slips out. I guess it was a time where flat head screws were the norm so a great screw driver designed for them would be essential.
Good new ones are $$$ where as a good eBay vintage can be way less.
I am also working on one of these mixers for my wife, and am looking for information and parts. I use a product called "Kroil Penetrant" and have had excellent results. I use it to loosen screws, bolts, pins & stuck keys in old equipment. (I restore old woodshop equipment) and am going to try it on her mixer. I have a friend who overhauls commercial water well pumps & he said they have had some luck cutting new fiber seals if I can get the old one out for him to see and get some dimensions. If we have any luck l will let you know. First I have to get it out.
Please keep posting if you find anything new.
Thanks
Probably for many taking out the two main transmission gears was easy. For me, the elliptical arms on that large gear on back of machine were a challenge. We did something simple and slipped a small piece of metal bar behind the radial arms that we could then grip with a gear puller with very skinny grabber tips on the end.
Once that was off, the whole gear came off. The screws mounting that big casing to the transmission casing had been soaked for weeks with good penetrating oil. But one still took an impact hammer to get off.
We made a new transmission key yesterday as mine was broken off at tip (pictures soon). But we're having trouble getting the action of the 3-step transmission lever to work smoothly. That is this morning's project. If anyone has any tips on how to make that system work very smoothly I am all ears.
Getting the bottom transmission gear out was easy, but with no manual it took me a bit to figure out how to do it. Turns out that there were two retaining screws, one front in back. Once those came off I could known the gear shaft out, from front to back, then just lift the gears out. Have cleaned all the parts, but still struggling how to get the interior of the transmission case really clean. The redneck farmer in me wants to take a pressure washer to it, but it is too cold to do outside, and even I am smart enough to guess it might be messy if do that in the shop. But a high pressure spray would be sweet.
There is a screw on the upper side of the transmission case. I took it out and it looks like it is an inspection port for grease level?
Has anyone removed and repaired one of the neat little "oiling" ports?
If we are talking a cast iron part, can't you clean the transmission case in an Electrolysis bath...Just as cleaning cast iron cookware.
Apologies on not being able to assist on your detail/technical questions, but super interested in your progress and what pitfall lie ahead for my own servicing.
Hey rcr1956
How did the rebuild go. Would love to hear an update.