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FYI: Calculation Errors in Calvel's Book 'The Taste of Bread'

trijezdci's picture
trijezdci

FYI: Calculation Errors in Calvel's Book 'The Taste of Bread'

I would like to make it known that the conversions for protein and ash contents between dry matter (as decreed by law in France and other EU countries) and "as is" 14% moist matter (as used in North America) in Raymond Calvel's book "The Taste of Bread" are all wrong.

For a moisture content of 14%, the corresponding dry matter is 100 - 14 = 86%.

It thus follows that in order to convert between dry matter percentage and 14% moist matter percentage, one has to use a conversion factor of 0.86. However, all of the figures in the book are based on a conversion factor of 0.84.

In all those years, nobody appears to have dared to question the professor's figures.

Anyone who might be inclined to believe that this is not a mistake but on-purpose for an unknown reason, should visit the website of the Canadian Miller's Association, and they will find that they publish protein and ash content for commonly used flours in Canada in both systems, one set for dry matter and one for 14% moist matter. And indeed, those value pairs have a ratio of 0.86.

http://www.canadianmillers.ca/productspecs.php

Thus, if you are using French (or other European) bread recipes with US and Canadian flours, don't use the table in Calvel's book. Calculate it yourself and use the correct conversion factor of 0.86 instead.

  • to convert 14% moist matter precentage to dry matter percentage, multiply by 0.86.
  • to convert dry matter percentage to 14% moist matter percentage, divide by 0.86.

I hope this is of help to somebody.

PS: I have notified the publishers of the error. 

mwilson's picture
mwilson

I too couldn't work out how they came up with those numbers!

Although it must be noted, the data table in his book is stated to be... "Courtesy of National Banking Center, Minneapolis, Minnesota."

You're mathematical approach is correct and I have made the calculations just as you describe when looking at this. I got confirmation by way of the formula listed on page 30 of...

Wheat Flour Milling, 2nd Ed (2004) E. S. Posner, A. N. Hibbs, American Association of Cereal Chemists

Very Important: I must add, this difference of moisture basis only applies to physio-chemical data which is rarely available publicly, the exception being with Italian mills.

In the EU, protein found listed under "Nutritional Values" includes moisture (might be 14% basis, not confirmed). But further to that is the difference of a Nitrogen multiplication factor.

EU Nutritional values = Nx6.25 (by product weight including moisture)

USA = Nx5.7 14%mb
Italy = Nx5.7 (physio-chemical data) dm.

mb = moisture basis
dm = dry matter

Thankfully ash is simply the difference between 14% and 0%.

Relevant reading: https://www.millermagazine.com/english/flour-testing-in-the-quality-control-laboratory/

trijezdci's picture
trijezdci

Thanks for the reference to Posner & Hibbs.

As for the nitrogen conversion, this won't make a difference (between Europe and the US) because whenever the protein contents is determined by nitrogen conversion, a factor of 5.7 for wheat is universally accepted and used worldwide. In this regard there is no difference between Europe and the United States*. The only difference remains whether to state the values (regardless of how they have been obtained) as a percentage of moist or dry matter.

[*] The US department of agriculture gives a nitrogen conversion factor of 5.7 for wheat.

 

trijezdci's picture
trijezdci

I am not sure where you get the figure of 6.35, I have obtained data from several mills in various European countries and thus far every single one of them has quoted a factor of 5.7.

trijezdci's picture
trijezdci

Something is fishy with this forum software. Last attempt to add this info before I give up.

 

I asked one of the millers and got this reply:

"Following nutritional labelling laws, any nutritional information on a package is given 'as is' with a generic food correction factor of Nx6.25. However, when we quote on flour specifications and test in the laboratory we use Nx5.7."

In other words, when you buy a 1 Kg pack of wheat flour in a European supermarket, it will be moisture based (with 14% moisture) and use a generic nitrogen conversion factor of 6.25, but if you buy flour from the mill, you will almost certainly be quoted on dry matter basis with a wheat specific conversion factor of 5.7.

mwilson's picture
mwilson

All spec sheets that describe physio-chemical data include protein as Nx5.7.

NxY where Y is the Jones' factor, 6.25 is the default for all foodstuffs and has been for over 75 years (Mariotti, Tomé and Mirand, 2008).

Consumer labelling adheres to EU law found here: http://data.europa.eu/eli/reg/2011/1169/oj

Most of us on this forum are home bakers and we in the EU and UK get our protein values from the Nutritional values found on the packet. Although in the UK I suspect even flour delivered to many independent bakers comes in the same consumer focused labelling.

Mariotti, F., Tomé, D. and Mirand, P.P., 2008. Converting nitrogen into protein—beyond 6.25 and Jones' factors. Critical reviews in food science and nutrition, 48(2), pp.177-184.

trijezdci's picture
trijezdci

I have worked for quite a few bakeries and they all get their flour in 25 Kg sacks from the mill or a bakery supply wholesaler. As this is not a consumer product, it is quoted dry matter and with N=5.7.

As for home baking, I am not sure what kind of supermarket sells the kind of flour one would want to use for bread making. I order my flour from a specialty store or directly from a mill. These usually come in in 5 Kg, 10 Kg, or 25 Kg sacks and they are not considered consumer products either. Since I can't inspect the labels before I buy, I will ask the mill (or intermediary supplier) for the data and then they give me the same data they will give to bakery/restaurant customers.

mwilson's picture
mwilson

I am in the UK and there are some differences to be noted.

Yes larger volume bakeries will for the most part receive flour bagged with no consumer labelling, delivered on palates. It has been a while since I worked in the baking industry but as a consumer I still buy in bulk.

One particular mill from where I buy 16Kg bags are sold in consumer packaging and include nutritional values. Yet a different mill that also sells bulk bags to consumers contain no information whatsoever.

High quality flour can be found on supermarket shelves over here. Even speciality flours milled by small suppliers. Its great over here!

trijezdci's picture
trijezdci

I am not across the pond, more like across the arctic ocean as I am in Japan.

None of the bakeries I have seen from the inside (in Japan and across Europe, including the UK) have ever been using flour in consumer packaging, most of them small. That doesn't mean there aren't any that do, but I think it is rather unlikely. 

I was in France, Germany and Switzerland last year, and the in terms of flours, my shopping experience at supermarkets was rather disappointing. The flours I saw in supermarkets were mostly T45/405 and T55/550, in some you get wholemeal flour, but more often they sell wholemeal bread mixes instead.

Whilst it is possible to make bread with T55/550 flours, I prefer not to. If I use T55/T550, I blend with other flours, for example rye or durum flours, and those I found difficult if not impossible to find in supermarkets. In Switzerland I was told I could get Ruchmehl in supermarkets but when I tried to buy some, I couldn't get it. In Germany, I was looking for semolina di grano duro rimaccinata for making Puglian bread and could find none. I called up an Italian restaurant and they gave me a phone number and said call Luigi on this number. Luigi turned out to be a small wholesaler in a garage catering to Italian restaurants. And he stocked Altamura durum in 5, 10 and 25 Kg bags. In France, I could not find any épautre, none whatsoever. And this was in Alsace where you will find all kinds of spelt based breads in bakeries. At least in Germany I found some Dinkel T630 in one shop selling health foods. So, even if you do find flours other than T45/405 and T55/550, the more interesting flours are hard to come by in retail shops, it is far less time consuming to order from a mill or bakery/restaurant supplier.

And once I have to buy from a mill or wholesaler for some of my flour anyway, I might as well buy all my flour that way. So the supermarkets are simply of no interest to me. I buy salt and potato starch in the supermarket and that's about it.

Here in Japan, the supermarkets only sell cake flours and what Americans call all-purpose flours. Trust me, you do not want to use those for baking bread. It may be all-purpose, but bread is not one of those all-purpose purposes. For bread, you have to use flour that explicitly says "for bread use" on the package: パン用. In some supermarkets you may see such flour occasionally but you can't rely on it being available. Instead, you buy your bread flour from a mill or a wholesaler.

There is one company that caters exclusively for home bakers. They're called TOMIZ and they rent shelf space in the food sections in upmarket department stores (think Selfridges or Harrods). But even so, home baking in Japan is largely understood as a housewife hobby and most of it is cakes and confectionaries. They do carry bread flours but it is not their focus. And since they have to pay the supermarket for the shelf space they will only place items they know will sell in large quantities. So when you go there to get that extra fine wholemeal flour you like to add to your baguette for a rustic touch, or that rye grist you use for Rhenanian black bread, more likely than not, it won't be on the shelf. You then have to order it. But if you have to order it anyway, you may as well order it directly online and get a 25 Kg sack instead of 500 g bags.

And if you want buckwheat flour, despite it being a staple food in the form of soba noodles, it is very difficult to find and even then usually comes in 200 g or 300 g packages that cost as much as a 1 Kg pack from a soba miller. And brown rice flour is impossible to find in retail. Same for sorghum flour, although I found two lonely 600 g packs of Bob's Red Mill Sorghum once at a 24/7 department store called Don Quichote, known simply as Donki, that caters almost exclusively to foreign tourists hunting for curiosity items they perceive to be typically Japanese.

mwilson's picture
mwilson

Shouldn't it be that...

Calculating from 14% moisture to dry matter should result in an increase. i.e. divide by 0.86
and
Calculating from dry matter to 14% moisture should result in a decrease, i.e. multiply by 0.86