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Umami Bomb: Seaweed Shio Koji Twisted Sourdough Bagel

Elsie_iu's picture
Elsie_iu

Umami Bomb: Seaweed Shio Koji Twisted Sourdough Bagel

I have to admit, my love for sourdough and whole grain happened more recently, bagel is the one that stole my heart first. I love it for its chewy and doughy texture that’s much more satisfying than an airy slice of sandwich bread. It’s therefore not difficult to predict at all that I gradually switched from white sandwich bread to more hearty whole wheat bread and finally to whole grain sourdough. My love for bagels still lingers, though after all the flavorful whole grain sourdough, they might taste slightly less exciting. Easy solution: incorporate whole grain, sourdough and new flavours, and you get bagels with both flavour and texture!

 

Umami Bomb: Seaweed Shio Koji Twisted Sourdough Bagel

 

Soaker:

20g      7%            Toasted wheat bran

3g        1%            Coarse masa bits

23g      8%            Water

 

For dough including soaker:

228g    80%            Whole wheat flour (20g bran from the 228g shifted out)

57g      20%            Masa (3g coarse bits from the 57g shifted out)

220g    77%            Water (23g water taken out for soaking)

30g      10%            Starter

30g      10%            Shio koji (Japanese salty fermented rice paste)

10g        3%            Vital wheat gluten

5g        1.8%           Seaweed flakes

 ___________

300g    100%            Whole grain

250g     83%            Total dough hydration (next time I’d down it to 75%)

 

Combine all ingredients under soaker and let the bran to be fully moistened overnight. Roughly mix all dough ingredients including soaker and let ferment for 8 hours at room temperature.

Stretch and fold for a few times then divide the dough into four equal portions. Let rest for 10 minutes. Take one portion and dust it with flour, roll it into a 40cm strip. Fold it along the middle so you get a U-shaped strip, cross the two strips over each other and pinch the end together so that you have a twisted rope. Connect the two ends of the rope to form a O-shaped dough. Repeat for the rest of the dough.

Let rise for 1 hour at room temperature. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 250°C/480°F with steam and boil a pot of water. Dissolve a tbsp brown sugar into the boiling water. After the 1 hour rise, boil the bagels for 30 seconds on each side and let a towel soak up excess water before placing on a cornmeal lined baking sheet.

Bake on the upper rack (I use a toaster oven) for 15 minutes with steam than bake without steam for 5 minutes more until the internal temperature reaches 190°F. 

Do note that the shio koji speeds up the fermentation process dramatically. Usually it takes 12 hour for the 10% starter to fully ferment 100-105% hydration whole grain dough yet only 8 hours are needed for this recipe even if the hydration is only 83%.

The dough is easy to handle with a moderate hydration level for 100% whole grain but I’d definitely down the hydration from 83 to 75% for a chewier texture. With this level of hydration, the bagels are a bit too soft for my liking. However, the crust is crispy and nicely developed even though there are no large blisters.

They are not beauties...but the taste compensates.

The aroma of the seaweed shines through with subtle corn sweetness from the masa. I prefer masa to regular cornmeal as the former has a much richer corn taste to me. I’ll up the shio koji to 45g next time as it is not really tasted so the bagels produced lack the complex taste profile of it and are not salty enough. (A word of caution: the shio koji I used is homemade and the salt I put is less than the common practice, do check the salt content if you use store-bought.)

Comments

PalwithnoovenP's picture
PalwithnoovenP

The combination of ingredients and the use of shio koji. Amazing! 100% agree, there's nothing more satisfying than chewing a well-made bagel! Some airy breads don't do it anymore for me.

I am quite familiar with shio-koji. It is like a milder "beanless" miso, right? You fermented it yourself? Did you buy the kome koji or you made one from scratch with some rice and koji spores? Do you also make homemade soy sauce or miso? I want to try fermenting with koji but I'm far from it now and my only experience with similar condiments is I've wild-fermented soy sauce last year. Nice to see someone with a somehow similar taste as me. :)

Elsie_iu's picture
Elsie_iu

I personally find miso and shio-koji to be quite different in taste though I love them both, the former is very rich and bold while the later taste less salty but with a slight alcohol-like bitterness. Both are fermented by koji (a type of fungus) but shio-koji is fermented rice unlike miso which is fermented soybeans with some type of grain (barley, wheat etc.) so of course it is 'beanless'.

I only ferment them with kome koji with salt at room temperature for a few days since I'm not proficient at fermenting. I keep a sourdough starter, make yogurt on a weekly basis and have tried making kimchi before but have never though of making soy sauce since there are all kinds of good quality and affordable soy sauce available in Hong Kong from all around the world. 

I'm impressed you fermented soy sauce yourself! You shouldn't hesitate at making your own shio-koji since you have experience at fermenting and it's so simple: even easier that making sourdough since you don't have to feed them!

Glad you like bagel as well! What a coincidence: I have a miso sourdough ready to be baked today!

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

unusual recipe for a bagel.  Getting the hydration down for a bagel is the way to go.  A normal bagel is 53-55% hydration so a whole grain on like this should be like 68 - 70%.or so.  Very nice indeed.

Happy baking

Elsie_iu's picture
Elsie_iu

I'm always trying to think out of the box to see if some less common flavour combinations would work. This is one of those that comes out better than expected. I can't take all the credit though since incorporating shio koji with bread was quite popular someday ago in Japanese recipes, I just added seaweed and the masa. Yet, the greater success is another miso yuzu sourdough recipe I posted yesterday, it has a more complex flavour.

Yes, I did know I shouldn't put so much water in a bagel recipe but I can't stop myself: I'm too used to higher hydration sourdough that this 83% dough felt so dry to me. I must resist the urge...Really hope I could make some beautiful bagels like yours someday!

Happy Baking to u as well!