The Fresh Loaf

News & Information for Amateur Bakers and Artisan Bread Enthusiasts

Pain de campagne - Pâte fermentée

rudirednose's picture
rudirednose

Pain de campagne - Pâte fermentée

the loaf

detail upper rim

pdc_detail_crackling_crust

 crackling crust

pdc_crumb

 crumb

pdc_detail_crumb

 detail crumb

This bread has different 'fathers'!

The first 'father', a friend of mine, made Pâte fermentée with rye, no success, dead end! So he did not give up and made a mixed one fifty-fifty, success, that worked! He told me and so I made my PF with the amounts of wheat and rye as used in our regional peasant-breads:

  • wheat - first clear - 70 %
  • rye - medium rye - 30 %
  • water - 60 %
  • fresh yeast - 2 %
  • seasalt - 2 %

I feed once a week or so and one day before use. After feeding 1 h rest on the bench at roomtemp and then he lives all the time as compagnion with my sourdough in the fridge. He now is at least 1 y old!

The next 'father' is Richard Bertinet. In his book 'DOUGH' he has a recipe for 'pain de campagne' with a 'rye dough' as 'starter'. It is a french rye-bread with 20 % rye-flour, and this 'rye dough' is nothing but a PF!

The other 'father' is Gontran Cherrier. In his book 'GONTRAN FAIT SON PAIN' he has two recipes from the Normandy, each with a high amount of PF!

The last 'father' am I. I mixed these recipes, tested and corrected and got finaly this bread!

 

My Formula:

  • PF - 260 g - 28 % total weight - (french notation, formula see above)
  • AP - 280 g - 75.7 % - (this time I used french T55)
  • medium rye - 70 g - 18.9 %
  • VWG - 20 g - 5.4 % - (this against the biodegradation in the old PF)
  • water - 240 g - 64.9 % - (the water good warm, mine was arrond 43C/110F)

mix, cover, and let sit 1 h on the bench for an integrated autolyse at roomtemp, then add

  • fresh yeast - 5 g - 1.3 %
  • seasalt - 10 g - 2.7 %
  • 2nd water - 15 g - 4 %
  • smoked dry potato granules - 20 g - 5.4 %
  • another water - 30 g - 8 %  - (to correct the dough if needed)

knead as used.

bulk-f : 1.5 h

s&f : every 30 mn

shape : boule, the seam well dusted with rye-flour!

final-f : 1 1/4 h at roomtemp or in the fridge at 4-6C/39-43F for 5-10 h  (I had 6.5 h this time) placed with seam-side down in a linned banneton, well dusted with rice-flour to the linnen side and rye-flour to the loaf-side. For isolation in a sealed plastic-bag.

baking :

preheating the oven with pressureless steam until the oven-temp ist near 98C/210F, then load into the oven seam side up

  • 5 mn <= 98C/210F steam only
  • 10 mn <= 240C/465F steam + convection mode (increasing temp)
  • 10 mn 230C/445F convection mode + bottom heat
  • 10 mn 210C/410F convection mode
  • 20 mn 180C/355F convection mode, removing steam several times by opening the door

 

After the 'normal' baking-time I tested a tip from 'dmsnyder'. He wrote somewhere here that after baking he let his bread cool down a while in the oven with the door a little bit open. I did this for 20 mn and think, it works for me! Thx David!

This bread is very delicious. Hard, splintering crust, soft, creamy crumb, complex taste from the PF and a fine scent from the smoked potato granules. Like a vegan ham-sandwich! ;-)

 

happy baking

rudi

Comments

trailrunner's picture
trailrunner

and crust. Love the cracks !!  You have obviously come up with an excellent blending of techniques and ingredients. c

rudirednose's picture
rudirednose

Yes, I allways try to do my best!

As you can see with my breads before, this 'seamside up' was not mine! I trained some loafs and now I had success! This time! ;-) Maybe next time there is no succes! That's life!

But I will keep on with my training!

happy baking

rudi

isand66's picture
isand66

Terrific bake.  Love the cracked crust and the crumb looks perfect.

I'm intrigued by the smoked potato granules.  Where did you find those?  I'm a sucker for anything smoked so I need to investigate for sure.

Regards,
Ian

rudirednose's picture
rudirednose

I was sure, someone will ask for this! ;-)

I invented this while I was thinking about WFO-Scent in non-WFO-bread! I thought, if I could integrate the flavor of smoke in any way it could work!

First I tested Hickory-Smoke-Salt. This salt is verry intensiv but the overall amount in the bread is not enough that an effect could be felt.

Second I tested smoked flour. I asked my friend (the one from above, he smokes at home some ham, sausages, cheese, fish, aso), for cold-smoking some flour and he did, rye and wheat. Cold, because hot smoke destroyes the gluten and starch in the flour. I made some bread and there was a fine scent of smoke, but not enough.

Long time I had no idea up to the moment when in a bbq-forum I read about hot-smoked vegetables!

So I took some potatos, the one with the highest amount of starch, pre-cooked them for 10 mn, peeled them, cut them into half and hot-smoked them in my portable smoker with wooden chips. From these smoked potatos I put 30 % warm into my bread. Full success! That was absolut great! Full, intensive flavor of smoke!

For the recipe I took JH 'roasted-potato bread' with 'smoked potatos' instead of 'roasted' and with 30 % instead 25 %!

Next step was my other friend, a steel-worker. He was enthusiastic about this idea and he build a 'cold-smoke generator' just for fun. And with this machine he smoked some potatos for me with different smokes, wood and peat, and after smoking he dried these potatos and granulated them. And from these, the peat-smoked, are my 'smoked dry potato granules'.

You can go one step back and use the fresh coocked hot-smoked ones.

I have some recipes and pictures from this 'relay race' but I think, that would give an other thread.

What do you mean?

Best wishes to you Ian

rudi

 

isand66's picture
isand66

Wow...I must give smoking some potatoes a try.  I cook potatoes all the time on my grill but have not smoked them for some reason....time to give it a go.  Thanks for the inspiration.

Regards,
Ian

rudirednose's picture
rudirednose

Good luck and much success!

I'm curious of your 'smoked potatoes' and what you do with them. ;-)

Happy baking

rudi

Cedarmountain's picture
Cedarmountain

That's great looking bread Rudi...the colour, crackly crust, lacy crumb, opening along seam lines...beautiful!

Cedarmountain's picture
Cedarmountain

That's great looking bread Rudi...the colour, crackly crust, lacy crumb, opening along seam lines...beautiful!

rudirednose's picture
rudirednose

Yes, I had to take some run-up for this 'seam-side up'-thing! This time success. Hope the next will follow! ;-)

Happy baking

rudi