The Fresh Loaf

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More catch up: "milk bread" versions from July 11-13

IceDemeter's picture
IceDemeter

More catch up: "milk bread" versions from July 11-13

While reading a post from Bread Kneading http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/52316/bread-always-cracks-one-side-and-gummy-centre about an adaptation to an Hokkaido Milk Bread recipe with Tang Zhong, I started wondering how I could do with that style of bake, and what it would taste like.  I had never done a loaf using ADY, or really tried an enriched version (other than some dried milk powder), and thought that this might be a great opportunity to give it a go. 

While I was at it, I planned on doing a version with a levain as well, so that I could compare all through the process as well as the results.  I based my formula on a scaled down version of Bread Kneading's formula:

 

 

MY ADY VERSION

MY LEVAIN VERSION

INGREDIENT

AMT (G)

BAKER %

AMT (G)

BAKER %

 

 

 

 

 

TANG ZHONG

 

 

 

 

Flour (whole durum)

24

5.00

24

5.00

Water

96

20.00

96

20.00

 

 

 

 

 

LEVAIN

 

 

 

 

Starter Flour (whole durum)

 

 

10

2.08

Starter Water

 

 

8

1.67

Flour (whole durum)

 

 

90

18.75

Water

 

 

72

15.00

 

 

 

 

 

FINAL DOUGH

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Active Dry Yeast

7

1.46

 

 

Tang Zhong

120

25.00

120

25.00

Levain

 

 

180

37.50

Flour (whole soft white / durum)

456

95.00

356

74.17

Maple Syrup

34

7.08

34

7.08

Salt

6

1.25

6

1.25

Oil

25

5.21

 

 

Butter - unsalted - softened

 

 

25

5.21

Whole Eggs

50

10.42

50

10.42

Non-Fat Dry Milk Powder

30

6.25

30

6.25

Water

216

45.00

136

28.33

 

 

 

 

 

TOTAL RECIPE FLOUR

480

100.00

480

100.00

TOTAL HYDRATION

350

73.00

355

73.93

 

 

 

 

 

TOTAL DOUGH WEIGHT

944

196.67

937

195.21

 

 

 

 

 

Well, I have to say that using ADY needs a whole new skill set from using the sourdough, with timing and the look and feel of the dough being totally different.  I managed to get it all together okay, but over-fermented it (holy crap does it move fast!), and then over-proofed it, too.  That resulted in no oven-spring, but I still got a reasonable looking “sandwich” loaf.  The crumb was the super-soft, shreddable type, and, well, it was a lovely loaf of “cake”.  While I suppose it came out how it was supposed to, the flavour is mostly just “sweet”, and there is no toothiness to it at all.  While I’m glad to have tried it, it won’t be on the menu for our household unless we have a guest with a preference for this style of bread.

 

Having had the chance to try the loaf of ADY style while the naturally leavened dough was fermenting in the fridge, I decided that the texture and flavour would be better for us as rolls instead of a loaf, and that 24 “pull-aparts” in a 9” x 13” pyrex pan would be ideal.  Apparently proofing in a pyrex isn’t a great idea in my oven – even with the door open – and I succeeded in taking them past proofing and in to starting to cook…  So – I ended up with a lovely flat cake-like mass that was still “pull-apart”!  While the texture was obviously a  disaster, we did still find that the extra flavours from the natural leaven and the longer bulk made it far more to our preference, and that even with the disastrous over-proofing the texture and toothiness was actually more enjoyable for us than the sweet, soft loaf.

It’s a good thing that there are all kinds of approaches for all kinds of preferences!  One of my favourite things on this site is the exuberance and enthusiasm of all of the bakers - an attitude that absolutely inspires me, even when they are doing something that isn't one of my favourite styles.  I hope that my joy in what I am piddling around with at least gives them a smile, too...

Really, along with the fabulous flavours and the satisfaction of supplying a need with your own skills, it really is about baking happy...

Comments

Mini Oven's picture
Mini Oven

loaf makes good french toast.  Cut into slices and let it dry a bit overnight before dunking into egg and milk (a splash of vanilla, orange zest and or tiny bit of cinnamon between each drowning.)    

I bet it was fun playing with the squishy ADY dough. It's like a sponge on the verge of oozing.  ...And aromas!   I know, too close for comfort.  The ADY loaf has plenty of colour, you could have easily degassed and reshaped the dough and still had a high rise.   Try it again and leave out the sugar.  I find myself setting a timer when using yeast.   "Siri, set a timer for 30 minutes!"  "Siri, another 15 minutes please."  

IceDemeter's picture
IceDemeter

Using it for french toast is a great idea!  It is currently all sliced and frozen so pulling it out in the morning to thaw and stale a bit before soaking should work well. 

It really is a different game to play with the ADY dough --- and yup - very much like a sponge!  I had considered degassing and reshaping (I've had to do that a few times now with other loaves and it has worked well), but didn't trust my judgment on this new-to-me dough as to whether it had enough left for that.  If I do try a pure ADY again (I'm enjoying the hybrid of sourdough and ADY poolish for rolls), then I'll most definitely skip the sugar, and use your suggestion of a timer!

Thanks again, and keep baking happy!