The Fresh Loaf

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Sesame Whole Wheat levain batards ala PiPs

alfanso's picture
alfanso

Sesame Whole Wheat levain batards ala PiPs

Phil Agnew – PiPs, is either a baking genius or a mad man.  Or maybe a mad man genius.  Only now am I starting to pay attention to what he had published on TFL a few years ago, prior to my time trapped in this other dimension known as the TFL Zone.  I had long ago noticed and admired the Also on TFL photo and link to his Sesame Whole Wheat Levain Double Hydration batard.  And now, not only being caught up in my own batard frenzy but also with a planned glut of sesame seeds on hand, well, that just nudged me over the edge.  His photography is wonderful, and did indeed capture my attention.  After my recent forays into David Snyder’s Sourdough Italian Bread, and my sister in law’s declaration of a mutual love of sesame seeded breads, I was ripe and ready to give this formula a go.

So here am I on the exact opposite end of the earth trying this formula out.  Well, actually a few thousand miles adrift into the Atlantic according to the antipode map, but what’s a couple of time zones off between friends?  

A few weeks ago, I baked his 100% WW Levain Batard at 88% hydration, due to my noticing it on Also on TFL.  And that was way further than I had gone before in terms of hydration.  But these loaves today hover around the absurd 102% hydration mark and called my name.  Wow!  The man must be a baking genius or and expert at mirrors or...

A few differences:

  • scaled down his formula for three 500g batards
  • off the shelf whole wheat flour
  • the interior sesame seeds are white hulled instead of black unhulled
  • bench rest bulk fermentation for 1 hour, with letter folds at 20, 40 and 60 minutes.
  • retarded for 1 hour before divide, rest and shaping.
  • couched, covered and into the retarder for an overnight snooze and long proof
  • couched seam side down
  • scored and baked right out of the refrigerator.
  • used my standard forever levain starter.  Therefore this isn’t technically a 100% WW  formula, with literarily just a few grams of AP and Rye slipped in  


And the results are in, of which I’m generally quite happy about.  Not as much grigne/ear as I was expecting, nor was there significant loft.  Maybe I'll go for an even sharper angled score the next time around.  But the sheer density of the dough was a likely culprit.  The lack of color in the crumb’s sesame seeds translate into being almost transparent to the eye, but they are there.  

I let it bake for the full ~15 minutes of steam followed by ~ 30 minutes of continued bake and then an additional 5 minutes of venting.  A rather long bake for a 500g batard.

After the second hydration the dough was very loose for the majority of the French Folds, but did tighten up a little toward the end.  A one hour retard made for a very easy pre-shape and shaping the batards.  Considering the insane level of hydration - extra flour on the couche, but the dough still stuck a little.  However no damage was done and the loaves were very easy to score.

I’m not so sure that I’ll be revisiting this formula again as the whole wheat flavor is a bit reminiscent of a cross between a farm and a health foods store smell ;-) .   But it surely was fun and a challenge to take on a task such as this.

Left: ready to come off the couche.  Right: scored and ready for the oven

 

Steam released and The Kids have been rotated.

The triplets

If you look closely you can see the sesame seeds although from this shot they are difficult to discern.

alan

Comments

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

It really gives the crumb a beautiful color and the seeds on the outside set off the crust!  Nice open crumb too.  Well done all the way around and 

Happy  baking 

Isand66's picture
Isand66

Looks like you achieved great results for the first time with this recipe.  Keep in mind for next time that fresh milled WW will soak up much more water, so you may want to cut the hydration down just a bit to compensate.  That will probably improve your expansion as well.

Your crumb looks perfect for this type of bread.

If you love sesame seeds, try finding some smoked seeds.  I found some at Home Goods and I love the smokey flavor.  I'm actually about to bake a new potato, cheese durum loaf but I only added some white sesame seeds to the top of these. 

Regards,
Ian

alfanso's picture
alfanso

Not being a user of fresh milled anything*, I really didn't have a clue that they require more hydration.  I'm just so enamored with the stuff that Phil was putting out that I just had to give it a try.  As I mentioned, the bread has a bit too much of a "healthy" musk and flavor for my Bronx based palate.  I did, however like the flavor of PiPs' 100 WW levain batard (fighting gravity) that I tried a few weeks back. I get the sesame seeds at a local Italian grocery in these parts, so it is unlikely that they'll be carrying smoked anytime soon.  I'd done my version of roasting these for the mixed-in seeds.

alan

*If it doesn't come off the grocery shelf already milled, etc. I don't use it.  Not a philosophy or anything like that, but I get a kick out of seeing what I can do with plain old bags of Pillsbury AP, etc.

**see, this is a reason that I love this website.  Where else is someone going to school me on such things for my still limited but expanding knowledge of baking.

Isand66's picture
Isand66

Glad I could help.  You should be able to find a Home Goods near you and you might find some interesting add ins to try.

I find King Arthur Flour to be my favorite off the shelf brand and I usually order by mail as well as stock up when I visit them once a year in Vermont.

Ian