How I Roll: Old and New Favorites
Over the past couple weeks, I’ve been on a roll….Well, actually, sandwich fillings have been on a roll literally. I’ve been making rolls, but that’s not a figure of speech of which I am aware. I suppose I could say I’ve been roll-playing. Anyway…enough tropes.
Last week I made an old favorite: the highly enriched sandwich buns SylviaH introduced us to back in 2010 (http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/17329/buns-sandwiches). This is like a Challah in crust and crumb, with egg, honey, milk and butter in the mix. I’ve made these four or five times, and Sylvia’s formula is easy and the outcome is always wonderful. I’ve enjoyed it for burgers, sandwich meats, tuna salad or—most recently— oval shaped for Chicken Teriyaki sandwiches.
This weekend I finally got around to trying the “Po-Boy Rolls” that ehanner posted about way back in 2007 (http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/4329/po-boy-victory). This formula comes from Bernard Clayton, who calls it “Blue Ribbon French Bread”. I was looking for the perfect rolls for French Dip sandwiches, something with a thin crackly crust and a light, tender, regular crumb. This formula was perfect, just slightly enriched with a bit of milk and butter, very fully developed dough. Made into six rolls (instead of the two long batards Eric made), they absorbed the jus nicely, but held together. A bit of horseradish sauce, some thin sliced Tri-tip roast, and an herb- and garlic-infused jus—pretty perfect sandwich! And fresh out of the oven, with butter and jam, they were a nice accompaniment for an omelet, too.
Two very different kinds of rolls, but both certain to be regulars in my baking rotation.