The Fresh Loaf

News & Information for Amateur Bakers and Artisan Bread Enthusiasts

Le Fleur d’Ours (Flower of the Bear) and Other Goodies

GSnyde's picture
GSnyde

Le Fleur d’Ours (Flower of the Bear) and Other Goodies


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This week’s baking—and cooking-- were inspired by Fresh Loaf masters proth5, Wally, SylviaH, Hansjoakim, and AW.   There was duck confit, whole wheat bread, sandwich buns, and Pat’s “Getting the Bear” baguettes (aka “Bear-Gets”), including a Margueritte-shaped thing—"Le Fleur d’Ours".


First, let me tell you about the three-day duck.  After reading Hansjoakim’s blog post (http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/21880/totally-not-bread-confit-de-canard), I tried to resist the temptation to make duck confit.  I could not.  I love duck, especially duck leg confit.  Han’s pictures and description started to wear down my resistance. Reading Michael Ruhlman’s blog post on the subject (http://ruhlman.com/2010/09/how-to-make-duck-confit-fall-is-here-time-to-preserve-duck.html) was the capper.


So I found a six-legged duck (Chernobyl brand).  Just kidding…actually I found a nice California-grown Muscovy duck and 4 extra duck legs (from a different duck…err…probably several).  I cut the legs off the duck so I’d have six for confit.  Friday morning, I rubbed the legs (the ducks’, not mine) with kosher salt, fresh ground pepper, crushed garlic, thyme and oregano, and put them in a zip-loc bag in the fridge for 24 hours.  Meanwhile, the excess fat from the duck and legs was rendered on the stove.  The legless duck was sprinkled with poultry seasoning, allspice, onion salt and garlic salt and roasted for dinner Friday (with yams and steamed snap peas…yummm!).  The fat drippings from the roasted legless duck was added to the other duck fat and refrigerated.


Saturday morning, I rinsed the cured legs, patted them dry and arranged them tightly in the bottom of our old Dutch oven, I melted the chilled duck fat in the microwave and poured it over the legs.  I added enough olive oil so that the legs were fully submerged.  Then I heated the Dutch oven slowly on the stove until just before the oil boiled, and put it in the oven at 180 degrees F. It stayed in that oven for 12 hours, except for an hour or so when I needed the oven for the sandwich buns described below; during that hour, I put the Dutch oven on the stove on low simmer.  I also made stock from the roasted duck bones.


Saturday evening, I pulled the Dutch oven out of the oven and let it cool for a couple hours, then put it in the fridge. 


They say the flavor of duck confit improves if you let it sit for days or weeks.  I’ m not sure this batch will last more than a couple days.  It made a splendid dinner Sunday.   I roasted two of the legs in a hot oven for 30 minutes, and served them over a bed of lentil ragout (French lentils, shallots, garlic, parsley, diced celery, diced carrot, duck stock and some good Syrah).


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This confit recipe was not a difficult process (I skipped the stretch-and-folds with no apparent detriment to the texture), though it takes several days in elapsed time.  I have to say it is totally worth the effort.  The best possible preparation for a sexapedal waterfowl.   And the lentil ragout (my attempt to replicate a dish served at a wonderful local bistro called Fringale) was a great success.  Recipe provided on request.


Now, about the breads…starting with a 37.5% whole wheat sandwich bread.


I hadn’t made a whole wheat sandwich loaf since I was a real beginner (back last September), and it was only so-so.  But my wife and I do love whole wheat bread, and I recently acquired some special whole wheat flour from Central Milling: the high-protein, fine ground organic whole wheat flour they sell to Acme Bread.   I searched TFL for a recipe and found AW’s post with her friend Ben’s formula, which has become very popular on TFL (http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/16345/whole-wheat-sandwich-bread).


I followed AW’s formula, substituting vegetable oil for shortening and a combination of honey and molasses for brown sugar.  In an embarrassing lapse of baking sense, I forgot to reduce the water to compensate for the liquid sweeteners, so the bread took a while longer to bake than prescribed, and the crumb is very moist.  Not gummy or unpleasant, just very moist.  It is soft but holds together well when sliced.   I also under-proofed the loaves and they blew out.  It’s not the prettiest bread I ever baked, but the flavor is outstanding!  Wheaty and molasses-y, it tastes healthy, but it’s good.  It made good duck breast sandwiches.


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Then, about SylviaH’s buns!!


One of my great aspirations as a baker is to make good-tasting simple sandwich buns that hold up to sloppy sandwich ingredients like saucy barbecue beef.  I’d tried the Italian bread rolls (http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/12485/sourdough-italian-bread-and-sandwich-rolls) and the sourdough potato rolls (http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/3886/sourdough-potato-bread).  Both were good, but too heavy and too chewy for what I was after.  Brother David suggested I try SylviaH’s highly-enriched sandwich buns (http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/17329/buns-sandwiches).  So, I did.


Having roasted a tri-tip (with Tony Cachere’s Cajun seasoning) during the week, I had a hankering for barbecue beef sandwiches.  I had half of bottle of the Firehouse No. 2 barbecue sauce in the fridge, so all I needed was buns.  Sylvia’s formula is easy and the results are excellent!  It’s basically a challah dough with some potato, and it tastes like delicious challah.  Eggy in a good way, tender crumb.  It held up well under barbecue beef.


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And, finally, the “Bear-Gets”.


Proth5’s baguettes are legendary for good reason.  Brother David had recommended Pat’s prior formula, and I made them several times, and always loved them.  I’ve baked her new “Getting the Bear” baguette formula (http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/20831/starting-get-bear) a couple times. It may or may not be better (which is better: magnifique or merveilleux?), but it’s real dang good.


I followed the formula, using my favorite white flour, Central Milling’s Organic Artisan Baker’s Craft, enriched with malted barley flour.  I made enough for four 9.5- ounce mini-baguettes and two 13-ounce Marguerittes, inspired by Larry’s recent adventures (http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/21929/little-baguette-fun).  I had to do three bakes because of the size of my stone.  I baked a Margueritte and a mini-baguette Saturday evening after a 6-hour retard; then two batches Sunday morning.


The dough was incredibly airy, but easy to handle.  The crumb is just about perfect.  Here’s a crumb shot of a baguette followed by a piece of La Margueritte.


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Making les marguerittes was fun.  This is the first time I’ve scissored dough, and it was a good experience.  I found the video linked in Larry’s post very helpful.  Nothing difficult about it, but there’s lots of room for improvement in the snipping and shaping.  The pull-away rolls from “le fleur d’ours” are delicious.


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Anyway…that was a long blog post.  The next one will be shorter.  Tasha’s learning to write.


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Glenn

 

Comments

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

I'd have considerable difficulty choosing off your weekend menu. Too many of my favorites.


David

hansjoakim's picture
hansjoakim

Beautiful, Glen!

GSnyde's picture
GSnyde

That's the good thing about weekends.  You don't have to choose just one thing when you can have eight to ten meals.


The confit will definitely not get a chance to age.  I have been instructed to serve it again for Valentine's Day dinner.


Glenn

arlo's picture
arlo

Fantastic baking (and cooking) Glen.

GSnyde's picture
GSnyde

Glenn

Franko's picture
Franko

What a pleasure to read your post Glenn!


It's a real treat to see someone as passionate about not only the cooking and baking of a great meal, but able to write about it in such a lighthearted and engaging fashion. You had me at the duck confit and lentil ragout, but all the great breads and buns, not to mention the BBQ beef, just added up to a very enjoyable read for me. Well done on all counts!


Franko

GSnyde's picture
GSnyde

Franko, if I ever handle dough better than I handle words, I'll consider myself a true master baker.  I'm glad you enjoy reading the stuff I so enjoy writing.


Thanks much.


Glenn

breadsong's picture
breadsong

Hi Glenn,
Everything looks just wonderful!
The shaping for your marguerites looks perfect to me.
What a nice way to give your wife 'flowers' for Valentine's Day!
from breadsong


 

GSnyde's picture
GSnyde

Thanks, Breadsong.  The photos of the breads make them look pretty good.  I'm not displeased.  But I see room for improvement.  One marguerite came unglued.  More attention could be given to the shape of the petals.  A fun craft project.


And, yes, edible flowers make a nice present.


Glenn

jombay's picture
jombay

Hey Glenn,


Great looking food and a heck of a post. That said, I'm really interested in the lentil ragout recipe.


Thanks,


Matt

GSnyde's picture
GSnyde

Matt--


The recipe is on my home computer.  I'll post it tonight. 


Thanks for your comment.


Glenn

GSnyde's picture
GSnyde




Here's the recipe.  I don't measure anything (when I cook), so these are estimates.


Ingredients


2 Tbsp bacon fat


¾ cup chopped shallots


1 cup chopped celery center stalks, including leaves


¾ cup chopped carrots


2 Tbsp minced parsley


2 Tbsp minced garlic


2 ½ cups small green lentils (lentils du puy)


1 ½ cups hot duck, veal or beef stock (plus more if needed)


¾ cup red wine (Syrah is good) (plus more if needed)


1 Tbsp tomato paste (or substitute ½ cup chopped tomatos)


Salt to taste (I used fleur de sel)


Fresh ground pepper to taste


1 tsp thyme


Directions


In large saucepan, sauté shallots, celery and carrots in bacon fat on medium heat five minutes. 


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Add garlic and parsley and sauté five minutes.


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Rinse lentils and add to pan, along with stock and wine.  Stir in tomato paste.  Add salt, pepper and thyme.  Bring to simmer.


Simmer  gently45 minutes to an hour, until lentils are tender.  Add additional stock and wine if the lentils get dry.


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Enjoy!


Glenn

 

Franko's picture
Franko

Thanks Glenn!


I've been waiting for this recipe all afternoon, and it's very close to how I imagined it would be. Wish I had some duck stock, but I do have some nice veal stock that should  do the trick. Definitely on my menu for the coming week.


Franko

jombay's picture
jombay

Thanks a bunch Glenn.


Matt

proth5's picture
proth5

Thanks for trying my formula again.  After a long time with pure levain breads I really do enjoy the dough handling on this one.


But the formula is still "under construction" - if I get it right, I'll let you know!


Got to apply bandages to this week's bear bites....

GSnyde's picture
GSnyde

...are works in process.  Having engaged in the work of perfecting techniques over some decades, I know one can be immensely pleased with a product and still dissatisfied.  That goes for cooking, baking, golf, musical performance, public speaking, and many other pursuits.  All of those are more or less 90% effort and 10% magic/karma/luck/blessedness.  And one can't depend on that 10%.


I doubt you would have created such a great formula if you were easily (or ever) satisfied.  You may think it needs work, but, man, it's good!


Thanks for always keeping at it.


Glenn

SylviaH's picture
SylviaH

Wow, Franko said it so well!  Your post made my day, always so enjoyable to view and read, what you have been doing.  


What a nice recipe...thanks for posting! 


Thank you for trying the buns and I'm glad you enjoyed them.  They came in handy for me to have with my chicken soup when I was getting over a bad cold.  I have been adding black sesame seeds on these buns...very nice.


Sylvia

GSnyde's picture
GSnyde

Sylvia, thanks for your comment.


The buns were great as garlic bread with dinner last night (vampires are known to frequent these parts on Valentine's Day).  I will try black sesame seeds on them some time.


Glenn

hanseata's picture
hanseata

to Tasha's posts in TFL - maybe she would prefer mouse confit...


Your photos look very appetizing, Glenn, just the right thing to warm you up in this cold.


Karin


 


 


 

annawilliams's picture
annawilliams

Here are today's rye breads that began as fully ripe rye sour on
Thursday. I put together a preferment yesterday morning, then mixed
the dough last night, kept it in the fridge until 6am, shaped it at 8
and baked it 3 hours later. The loaves about half rye and the rest of
the flour is mixed up among several KA varieties... AP, first clear,
and a high gluten one called Sir Lancelot. There is caraway in the
dough and nigella sprinkled on top.

Since things were going to be fermenting for awhile, I got into the
groove and started a sauerbraten, too. That is the last photo and will
end up being tomorrow's dinner. Love to share my great experience also by sending http://www.flowers2world.com to my family.