Submitted by AlexL on October 7, 2009 - 9:19am

Thought I'd give this "web-logging" thing a try


Filed under: Things that may grow to haunt me

 

October 7, 2009

It's been awhile since my first post. I've been working on getting french bread down since then and after about 15 batches of dough I think I've finally found the delicate balance between the science and the art of it.

Yeah I wish.

I made a giant, spongy, flat batard for a dinner party a couple nights ago that I just had a bad feeling about right from the oven. One of my friends commented that it looked like an alligator lying in wait for unsuspecting prey. Gotta love those witty food critics.

 

 

My mistake was using a new recipe, using my new kitchen scale, and adhering too strictly to the measurements. It called for a 100% poolish and 66% overall hydration. Yesterday to satisfy my curiousity I carefully measured out a 60% hydration dough, which is about what I think I used to make back when I eyeballed everything and it turned out just how I like it - crisp skin and fluffy meat. I think I'm seeing a disturbing trend developing here though. This morning I weighed out my coffee grinds and recorded it in my kitchen journal with spaces saved for additional entries, then as I was weighing out my condensed milk for my coffee I had a WTF-realization moment and quickly shut off the scale and slowly backed out of the kitchen. Note to self: do not become a scale-whore.

Anyways here's my bread from yesterday:

 

 

 

Last night I decided that I've earned my baking yellow belt and was ready to learn the esoteric art of sour-do. I found a simple starter recipe using plain water and plain AP flour since I don't usually stock endangered fruit juices nor mill my own flour. I hope the other starters here won't look down on my modest little starter. What he may lack in sophistication I hope he'll make up for in street-smarts. Okay, I guess breads can't be street-smart so....let's just hope he doesn't taste like socks. Quick question: are starters generally male or female? I think mine's a boy but I'd like to make sure before I name him.

 

 

 

I'm 12 hours in and I'm nervously excited. I can't stop picking it up and looking at it. My mom used to say that that would make it fall off, so I should probably stop. It's condensing a bit on the lid and smells slightly yeasty, but hasn't risen a bit since last night. From what I've read that's still 12-24 hours away so it's all good so far. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

 

Update: 36 hours in

The smell. Dear god, the smell. I took the lid off to feed it this morning and I just woke up, on the kitchen floor. How can something so innocent looking produce such an ungodly stench? Must separate mind from body. You can do this.

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Is that the bakery in SF by

Is that the bakery in SF by the pier? wow...they must leave some of those breads there forever - I looked at that photo and thought it was one I took when we visited there over a year ago!

 

Your breads are looking good to me :) I am laughing at the male-female starter query. We should do a poll on the topic!

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I'm not sure where that photo

I'm not sure where that photo was taken. I grabbed it off google images under "alligator bread." I honestly did not expect so many results. For all I know I may have stolen your picture by the looks of it. If so I'll take it down or mail you some bread as a licensing fee.

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lol -- it's not my image I

lol -- it's not my image I dont think, and I'd hardly be complaining given the context anyway. :)

I just recognized the alligator bread. I wonder if the photo that you found was taken within the same week. Looks like the breads next to it in the window at least, had changed!

Starter

You will have much better luck getting your starter going if you include a portion of of rye or whole wheat flour. It does not have to be home-milled, but it should be fairly fresh (meaning not some that has been in the cupboard for a year). Also, be sure that your AP flour is not bleached and that your water is not chlorinated. Well water is fine, as is bottled spring water or de-chlorinated tap water. Do not use distilled or RO water, as the minerals have been removed from it and your starter needs these minerals. Stir the starter mixture vigorously and frequently to ward off any mold catching hold. Keep the mixture warmish and the consistency more wet than thick until the yeast catch hold. Once they start to grow you can thicken it up. Good luck!

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Thanks, that's good advice. I

Thanks, that's good advice. I used freshly bought unbleached AP white flour and water filtered through a Brita tap filter. I'm worried about the water now since water here in Ottawa is very soft -- 55 mg/L (4 grains per gallon) of calcium and magnesium. I'm following a rough schedule of 24 hrs intial fermentation, then 12 hour feedings at a 1:1:1 ratio for 5-7 days, all using just unbleached white AP flour. Any glaring issues here I should be concerned about, aside from using the wrong flour and wrong water? :P

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nice write-up

Alex, wait with naming the starter. I think smell determines male/female. The rest I have to leave up to you. Keep feeding on a regular basis.

Cheers,
Jw.

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recipe you used for french bread?

Your french bread looks alot better than any I"ve made.  What recipe did you choose?  Any chance of getting THAT formula or refer me to a page in a book.  I have the BBA book.

I must be missing something.  I've never named my starter.......  I think I should call her (it) miss Piggy because she gorges on the feedings I give her.

-susie

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Er, what recipe?

Thanks, but I should say the lighting and camera angles were very flattering to it :P

The recipe goes something like this: 

 

  • 2 cups of unbleached AP flour (makes two of the mini-baguettes shown above)
  • 60% warm filtered water
  • 1/2 tsp active dry yeast
  • 1 tsp sea salt
  • pinch of sugar
Scoop and weigh the flour. Mix water, yeast and sugar. Toss the salt in with the flour and stir it up with a wooden spoon. After a minute or two when the yeast has dissolved, I add about 2/3 of it to the flour, and add the rest as I stir. If the dough looks a little dry I'll add a tbsp of water (for some reason 60% water sometimes gives me nice dough and sometimes it's a little dry, weird).
Autolyze 20 min. then hand-knead until it windowpanes, <10 min. To be honest, I only "pass" the windowpane test like half the time :/ I really should be in remedial baking 101. Bulk ferment until it more than doubles in size (2.5-3 times bigger) then "french fold" 4-5 times. If it's too firm to french fold or doesn't rise more than double then I know I made my dough too dry and I get all sad the rest of the way.
Ideally I'll rise and french fold at least once more, always when it increases to 250-300% volume. After the last french fold it rests until it rises to about double the size. 
Then I just cut and preshape into two balls, rest 30 min. then shape and final proof on a cookie sheet (I don't have a couche or proofing bowls/trays or anything). This is definitely where I'm still learning. For me, having the right touch when shaping and getting the final proof right really affects the final product. I'm still figuring this part out, so any tips here would be appreciated.
500 degree oven for 10 minutes with steam, then 425 for another 20 minutes until the crust looks nice and golden. I pretty much take it out when it looks good, which is anywhere from 27-30 minutes on my imprecise non-convection oven. Btw, I don't have a baking stone, I just use a doubled-up cookie sheet on the top rack so your mileage may vary.

Edit: I forgot to note that I don't have a hard recipe -- this is just what works out for my usual small batch of bread for the ladyfriend's daily after work snack. The only cookbook I have is Mark Bittman's How To Cook Everything, and his french bread recipe has given me some gnarly results so I just disregard his baking recipes altogether.

 

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