The Fresh Loaf

News & Information for Amateur Bakers and Artisan Bread Enthusiasts

Most bookmarked

tony's picture
tony

high extraction flour

Does anyone know where to obtain high extraction wheat flour? I've made my own from flour I've milled myself, and it's too much work with the rudimentary tools I have. So far, Google hasn't found me a source. Another question is Does anyone know of a bolting machine or other sifting device for making high extraction flour that is appropriate for home use?

Yet another question is Does adding white flour to whole wheat produce a flour close enough to high extraction flour to make the search for the real thing unnecessary?

Thanks,

Tony

Luber's picture
Luber

Ersatz Hopfister Oko-Schwabenlaib sourdough rye bread

My German roommate complained that he couldn't get bread here like at home, so he brought me a loaf to try and emulate. It was
heavy and dense with a great crust. Here's the official description: http://www.hofpfisterei.de/hpf_sortiment_natursauerteigbrote.php

I hadn't baked for a few years, but since I'd worked as a baker for a while I figured it was
like riding a bicycle. However, I hadn't worked with sourdough before, so after reading a bit here, at rec.food.sourdough and
elsewhere and getting some good advice from a few people, especially Samartha, who's made a serious study of it and shares it here:

http://samartha.net/SD/index.html

I went ahead and made a starter as he described and tried a loaf or two. After three iterations, the results are pretty darn good! My
roommate from Munich said it's almost like the real thing, 90% the same - anyway I like it. So I thought I'd share it. I used the
Detmold 3-stage process as he describes here: http://samartha.net/SD/procedures/DM3/index.html he even has an online calculator!
He does everything by weight like a real baker, but I've gotten lazy and use cup measure at home, so you may have to play with
hydration a bit.


Pull starter out of fridge and warm up till active.

1) 2 Tbsp. active starter, 2 Tbsp. rye, 1.5 Tbsp. water; 80º-84ºF for 6 hr.
2) ¼ cup rye, 1.5 Tbsp. water; 70º-80º for 12-24 hr.
3) ¾ cup rye, ¾ cup water; 86º for 3 hr

Pull out 2 Tbsp. of #3 and reserve in fridge for next batch.

Autolyze: During Stage 3, in separate bowl mix

2 cups water @ 70º
2+ cups bread flour (King Arthur AP, Giusto's Baker's Choice or Gold Medal Harvest King - 11.5% protein)
2 cups clear flour (available from King Arthur)
1 cup high-gluten (eg Giusto’s Ultimate Performer)

just until wet and let sit for 30 min - 2hr. Then put this “autolyzed” mix along with the sour into the mixer and add:

1 cup rye
1 Tbsp. each salt and ground caraway
1 tsp. each ground fennel and coriander

Work up about five min in the KitchenAid, let rise till double (~1 hr @ 80-85º).
Re-roll into a ball and rise till doubled again (~for 1 hr @ 75º).

Egg wash, poke deep holes instead of slashing, bake on the stone at 450ºF for 20 min with steam, then another 50-60 min at 350º or
until the internal temp is 200-205º.

Schwabenlaib

 

 

sadears's picture
sadears

Too funny

At baking911.com there is a troubleshooting section.  One of the problems listed is 'large holes.'  I find it funny since everyone here, as far as I can tell, want large holes, or somewhat large.  It says the problem is underkneading or over rising.  The remedy is thorough kneading.  Anyway, thought I'd share.

 

Steph 

Wayne's picture
Wayne

Proofing Box

Finally got around to building my "high dollar" proofing box.  First picture is the inside of the box w/transformer to the side.  Happened to have the transformer on hand from my day's as a research chemist.  Second picture is the outside of the box showing the temperature probe and the transformer.

mountaindog's picture
mountaindog

Desem?

Does anyone make desem and if so, do you have any photos, especially of the crumb that you could post here? I read the version of the technique and recipe in the Laurel's Kitchen Bread Book and I'm intrigued, but not sure it is worth all the effort for me to try it. I would like to see what it looks like, and what those of you who have tasted it think of it - what other types of bread is it comparable to? Is it heavy and dense or light and open? Tough and chewy or tender and crispy?   Thanks...

JMonkey's picture
JMonkey

Good eGullet Sourdough article

I was poking around eGullet this morning when I happened upon an excellent sourdough article that really helped things click into place for me, at least mentally. I'm going to be travelling for a bit and so won't get back to the kitchen for sometime.

What Jim has been saying about time, temperature and the percentage of starter in a dough made sense to me, and has helped me improve my bread (thanks!), but I still didn't understand a few things. For instance, I know that I've had a more sour bread when I retard it in the fridge, but I've also had a more sour bread when I increased the proofing temperature to about 82 degrees. Why is that?

This graph from the article, I think, might help explain it. I realize now that it's a version of the graph that Jim posted, but at the time, I didn't realize that Candida Milleri in Jim's graph was yeast.



The key factor, if I'm reading the article and Jim right, is not necessarily the level of activity, but rather the respective levels of activity between the yeast and the bacteria. At room temperature (about 70-75 degrees F), for instance, the yeast and bacteria are roughly equal in activity. However, on the edges -- lower than 70 degrees and higher than 75, bacterial activity outpaces yeast activity.

Here's what the authors say:

The right temperature is the single most critical variable. Michael Ganzle and his co-workers did some studies on this. They found the following growth rates of L. sanfranciscensis and C.milleri as function of temperature. Growth rate is ln2/generation time, i.e. a growth rate of 0.7 is a generation (doubling time) of about 1 h.

The generation times measured in laboratory media are different from that in rye / wheat / white wheat dough. If the generation time at 20 C is 1/2 of that at 30 C in my medium, the organism will also grow 1/2 as fast at 20 C compared to 30 C in dough (we checked). So, it's not the absolute numbers that matter, but the ratio of growth rate to growth rate at optimum temperature.


There are a ton of other variables, of course -- the proportion of bacteria to yeasts in the starter, the species of yeasts and bacteria in the starter, etc -- but might this explain why both retarding the dough at a low temperaure and fermenting at a somewhat elevated temperature (~82-85 F) would produce a stronger sourdough than fermenting at room temperature -- because the bacteria are more active than the yeast?

Anyway, interersting article. I'd be interested to hear what others think. Is that your take, Jim? I think I'm finally wrapping my head around this stuff ....
Floydm's picture
Floydm

Shaping a flax seed torpedo

This is the Flax Seed Wheat Bread from Dan Lepard's The Handmade Loaf (a great book, but one not easy to find in the US).

flax seed wheat bread

Recipe for the Flax Seed Wheat Bread here.

mountaindog's picture
mountaindog

Starter, technique, and recipe comparisons: this week's baking

Stayed home today to nurse my lame dog, so I have time to make some notes for myself for future reference:

For this past weekend's baking, I decided to make the Thom Leonard Country French bread (Glezer) again, but using my rye starter, and compare it to the Essential Columbia (also Glezer) my current favorite recipe. For the Columbias, however, I made two different batches for further taste comparison: one with a wet rye starter (saving the step of making a firm starter if you don't keep one) and the other with the firm white starter called for in the original recipe in Glezer's book.

Here is how the Thom Leonard bread came out:

The crumb was beautiful as was the oven spring and crust. I also used King Arthur AP flour only, rather than a mix of AP and Bread, because the protein level of KA AP is as high as other bread flours (11.7%). The last time I made this bread using KA bread flour, the crumb was way too tough and chewy, even for me who likes chewy bread. Seems like the only reason to use a very high protein bread flour like KA (12.7%) would be to strenghten mostly whole grain breads. The Thom Leonard above tasted very nice for a mostly white French bread, however, I have developed a taste for a bit more whole wheat in my bread which is why I prefer the Columbia at the moment. Of course, the original Thom Leonard recipe calls for high extraction flour, not white AP flour. If I can ever get my hands on some, I will try it again with that.

Next, I made the Columbia using a wet rye starter, and omitted the small amount of rye called for in the recipe, replacing it with additional whole wheat and white AP. To first make the levain for this recipe using the wetter rye starter rather than the stiff white starter called for, I used a bit more starter, a bit less water, and a bit more flour, until the correct consistency was achieved and the total weight of the levain as an overall ingredient in the recipe was preserved. This was a pretty slack dough, as I like to work with wetter doughs for improved crumb, so when I tried to slash it for the batard, the darn razor dragged again despite oiling and I went over the same slash too many times and compressed the dough too much in those spots, you can see the results in the crumb shot below:

Despite the spread out loaf, I still got some nice holes and the crust was gorgeous! The taste was as great as before, with a slight flavor from the rye starter that made it taste mildly like a rye bread.

The next batch of Columbias were made with the stiff white starter called for in the recipe, my stiff starter uses 75% white bread flour to 25% whole wheat flour. I fed it 3 times at 12 hr intervals before making the levain with it for this recipe. Rather than making 4 smaller loaves, I made 2 large ones using bannetons. I had trouble with slack dough sticking to bannetons before so I got over-eager with the flour on these, and I had to brush a lot of it off after baking. I also think it inhibited the crust forming nicely as in the free-form loaves above which have the nice crisp crackly bubbles. The other thing I did differently was to degas them by pressing the flat of my hand all over the dough before rounding into boules, thinking I would try to even out the crumb more, but I overdid it, and I did not get as nice holes this time - there are some big ones, but not as many as I like to have and not as even. Below are photos of the large boules made with the stiff starter, and for comparison I stacked the previous batch's smaller rye starter batard on top of the sliced boule - the pic on the right is without a flash and shows the holes in shadow a little better, while the left shows the actual color of the crumb nicely:

I also found that I prefer making the smaller batards free-form for this recipe rather than using a banneton to make larger boules. Not only does this avoid getting excess flour on the crust, but it provides a greater surface area and ratio of crust to crumb, since the crust is so good on this bread. As far as taste difference in crumb between the wet rye starter method vs. the stiff white starter, it is very hard to tell the difference, but I like the stiff starter version's flavor slightly better - it has a bit more tang and wheaty flavor and slightly less rye flavor - the rye flavor in the rye starter batch may outcompete the wheat germ and malt flavors. I would probably get the same result using my wet white starter, so I will try that next.

Lessons learned:

1) levain: using a wet starter seems to work just as well in this recipe as using a stiff one - the type of flour used will make a bigger difference in flavor than the hydration does.

2) first fermentation: do not de-gas the dough completely, just fold it 2 or 3 times for strength during fermentation 30 min. apart. I also retarded the dough overnight in the fridge after a 2 hour room temp. first fermentation.

3) shaping and proofing: handle as little as possible without de-gassing as noted above, but do gently form smaller batards rather then large boules to get more crust ratio. Without pressing out the gas, do tighten the batard into a very tight cylinder as much as possible to create enough surface tension to avoid it spreading out too much or flattening when scoring.

4) when slashing a slack dough like this, don't score over it again or it will flatten it out too much.

5) avoid over-flouring bannetons as it ruins the crust and didn't really help with the sticking anyhow, maybe a spray oil is better - I'd like to know how people avoid banneton stickiness and resulting collapse with the coiled willow baskets.

That's it for this week...

 

buh's picture
buh

Slash Top Problem

I know how to slash my bread but my brand new razor blade still drags, pulls, bread. Right now a loaf is rising for 2nd time. I smoothed on flour, then covered pans w dry kitchen towel. This way I should get a slight crust, so that my blade won't drag. But any other ideas?? Thanks.

Floydm's picture
Floydm

Trying the NY Times technique

So I set out today to try the new technique that we've been discussing from the New York Times article. I created a dough like what he described the night before and gave it an 18 hour rise.

This morning, I dusted off a Le Creuset pot I got as a gift a few years ago but have rarely used.

pot

18 hours later, the dough was extremely bubbly. Personally, I thought it smelled a little overfermented. Slightly alcoholic.

bubbly dough

Around 80% hydration, folding it was a pain.

folding

folding

folding

folding

folding

folded dough

floured bowl

Despite flouring the bowl like crazy, it stuck.

sticky mess

I baked it anyway. It came out ugly, but with pretty nice crumb.

both loaves


crumb

The pretty loaf was a sourdough I baked the same way (in the pot covered for 25 minutes, in the pot uncovered for about 20 or so at 450). It was a damp dough, but not *that* wet. More like 65-70% hydration. Much easier to handle.

sourdough loaf

I may try it again, but I'm not overwhelmed by the results. They are good and it is a little simpler, technique-wise, but I enjoy a more traditional approach too.

 

Pages