The Fresh Loaf

News & Information for Amateur Bakers and Artisan Bread Enthusiasts

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JoeVa's picture
JoeVa

Golosaria 2009 & Petra Lab

Golosaria is a "culture and taste" exhibition. A unique event that brings to the fore the very best italian artisans. Every autumn they meet in Milano and Torino, and in spring in Monferrato to show you the most wonderful italian foods. Pasta, sauce, cheese, pastry, beer, chocolate, wine ...


                                                                          


I missed the date in Milano, so I went to Torino the following week (November 15, 2009)... and I went there as "breadaholic" to meet a master baker (Gianfranco Fagnola) and learn more about a famous miller (Molino Quaglia) and his top flour (Petra).


08:00 in the morning, get on the train to Torino (01:40 from Milano). Go straight to P.zza Mestieri Association Palace in "J. Durandi street, 13). Take a look around and stop at Molino Quaglia stand.


                        


                    


Here I spoke with the technical guy of Molino Quaglia: Giuseppe Vignato. He was really kind and he gave me a lot of information. Molino Quaglia is a big professional Italian miller located in Vighizzolo D'Esta (Padova). They build a "new concept flour": Farina Petra. In the above shots you can see Petra brochures and a loaf of Bread (Pane Bra a naturally leavened bread made with Petra by Gianfranco).


Petra is a stone milled in pureness flour made with the aid of modern technology, exalting the taste of wheat. Petra is made up of blends of selected wheat (most of them are not Italian) in order to give the taste of wheat, the protagonist, to bread, pizza and cakes. Here a few details: classified as Tipo 1 (extraction rate 80%), contains a lot of soluble fiber and the wheat germ, not malted (but checked in enzymatic activity, ie falling number), we do not have alveograph info but maybe >W300, proteins 14%, absorption 70%, milled with special stones controlled with laser technology.
They have Petra1 for bread, Petra3 for pizza, Petra5 for pastry and conTuttoIlGrano; my focus was on 1+3+conTuttoIlGrano. The last one is a whole version of Petra1 with added toasted bran (that's interesting!). Petra is perfect to be used with sourdough and indirect method (poolish and biga).


After the interview I asked Giuseppe to speak with Gianfranco, the baker. He was in the lab preparing all we would need for the afternoon (15:30) public session. So I met Giuseppe, a master and a gentleman! It was a cool experience as there were only three of us in the lab: me, Gianfranco and two baking teachers (the lab is located in the culinary school - Scuola Immaginazione e Lavoro). A lot of Q&A and hand-on tests!


Before lunch we mixed the dough for Pane Petra. (Shots: liquid levain, spiral mixer, mixed dough, Gianfranco put out the dough, Gaetano put the dough in the fermentation cell).


                 


                 


                                                         


(12:30) Then we had a lunch break. I ordered my hand notes and ate my (Pane Fermento) sandwich with a good red handmade craft beer from the microbrewery. 13:30 back to the lab!


                       


We pre-shaped the loaves, bench rest and final shaping. Back to the fermentation cell. (Shots: dough after bulk fermentation, pre-shaped loaves, Gianfranco shaping, fermentation cell)


                  


                                      


In the afternoon the lab opens the doors (there were about 80 persons). Three sessions: bread, pastry and pizza.


Here some photos of the lab (small fork mixer, small spiral mixer, sourdough temperature controlled machine, pastry ingredients, Petra ciabatta poster, the lab, tools):


        


                 


                                                                   


                


This was the bread session: Gianfranco showed two preferments, we tasted a biga and stiff sourdough, he showed sourdough refreshment and then scoring and baking. He answered to a question about starter activation, but I did not agree at all with him. (Shots: Gianfranco and Gaetano, the stiff mother dough, the refreshed stiff mother dough, scoring the dough, baking).


                 


                 


                                     


And now the information you are waiting for.


I think his "school" is the P.Giorilli's one. Gianfranco uses both stiff and liquid levain (the chef), his culture is refreshed 1:1:2 (stiff) and 1:2:2 (liquid) fermented about 04:00 at 28°C then kept stable at 12°C and used within 12:00, he feeds the culture with only white wheat strong flour (the same strong and balanced flour used for Panettone). He doesn't use (and I think he doesn't like) dough cold retardation. He says that he likes mild sourness and I don't agree with him, but after further information on the flavor I like (the French sourdough, Poilane style) he said my taste is elevated and most people in Italy do not accept this kind of flavor.


And now Pane Petra. Do not expect something unconventional, it's aligned with our processes.


Overall Formula



Petra1 100%
Diastatic Malt* 0.5%
Water 70-75%
Salt 1.8%

* this is the % for liquid malt.

Preferment

15% of the total flour is prefermented at 100% hydration (1:1:2). 

Dough consistency

Soft.

Desired dough temperature

28°C.

Process

  • Mix all ingredients except salt and malt, hold back 10% water.
  • Autolyse 00:20, then add salt and malt on top.
  • Mix on 2^ speed for about 00:15 and add slowly the remaining water to adjust the dough consistency.
  • Bulk fermentation 01:00 at 28°C 75% humidity.
  • Divide (800g) pre-shape and shape
  • Proof 03:00 at 28°C
  • Bake on stone at 240°C->220°C for 00:50 / 01:00.

We did not have a good steamed deck oven, so Gaetano advise the use of a big rack oven. The result was good but the absence of the stone and hot deck produced a "small defect" in one loaf, we had a "tunnel"! No one is perfect!

                       

18:00 it's time to go home. And I bring with me a little piece of Gianfranco culture and 620g of Petra1 (this will be used for my "Petra test").

                        

  Gianfranco Bagnola bakery is located in Viale Madonna dei Fiori, Bra (Cuneo).

Giovanni

Mini Oven's picture
Mini Oven

Windowpane Crackers

Peter Reinhart's  Thin Wheat Crackers on p.291  in  Whole Grain Breads


My interpretation used Spelt Flour type 700 glatt (fine) with additional 30g flour to the recipe.


Twentyfour hour rest on the counter top before cutting into small shapes and making windowpanes.  Place on parchment and continue to thin out the crackers...  Keep a towel handy to wipe off oil.  If I do this again I will use two tablespoons less oil in the recipe.  I like mine without the salt wash, which does give the crackers a little more strength but the crunch is better without it.


1000 words:


turosdolci's picture
turosdolci

Chestnut Fettuccine


Chestnut fettuccine with toasted pignoli nuts and sage bring out the pasta’s smoky and rustic flavor. Chestnut fettuccine compliments grilled venison and turkey and adds a new dish to your holiday dinner.


Chestnut flour has a very strong flavor and you may want to experiment with different amounts of flour.


http://turosdolci.wordpress.com/2009/09/03/hunting-season-begins-in-switzerland-and-venison-is-on-the-menu/ 



 



 



 

Yippee's picture
Yippee

091112 My First Ciabatta - SteveB's Ciabatta Using Double Flour Addition and Double Hydration Techniques

I tried SteveB's double flour addition/double hydration techniques to make his ciabatta, one of the three beautiful breads I promised myself to learn from some of the most sophiscated, well-respected home bakers here at TFL when I first started making bread back in February this year. Since then I'd tried dmsnyder's baguettes and Susan's ultimate sourdough.  I've always tried my best to emulate the orginal formulas so that my breads would not 'disgrace' the beautiful creations by these bakers.  My ciabatta is no comparison to Steve's picture perfect creation, but at least I can say 'I've tried it'.  Thank you, Steve, for your inspiration of pursuing professional quality breads from a home kitchen.


http://www.flickr.com/photos/33569048@N05/sets/72157622813299190/show/

plevee's picture
plevee

DLX again

I bought a used DLX 9000 on eBay. I have used it twice and would appreciate a little help.


1. It is very difficult to judge hydration - the gluten development seems to be very good but the dough has been stiffer than I expected compared with hand kneading.


2. How do you know when it is kneaded enough? When it forms a doughnut? Or do you have to stop the machine every few minutes and check for a windowpane? Accounts I have read range from 5 minutes to 20 minutes for adequate development.


3. Is there much danger of overworking the dough.


So far it is not love at first encounter!


Patsy

PeterPiper's picture
PeterPiper

Best selling/favorite bread?

I've been making bread and selling it to friends and family for a while now, building up my menu to include nine different breads.  Recently I promoted a cranberry walnut brioche braid which turned out to be by far the most popular, selling very well.  I hadn't expected it to be so popular, which makes me wonder what other type of bread might be a best seller. 


I'd like to hear from my baking colleagues what bread they think I should add to my menu.  What do you find is your most requested bread for family events?  What is your favorite to eat?  i've found that my favorites (ciabatta and sourdough) don't sell nearly as well as the sweeter breads. 


Also, I'm opening a contest on my blog for a new bread nomination and the winner gets a free loaf of bread from the menu shipped to their home.  The link is below and feel free to enter.  Thanks and let's hear those nominations!


-PeterPiper


http://psoutowood.vox.com/library/post/bread-contest.html

donna322's picture
donna322

Long rise sour dough

Hello...I am a new sourdough baker and this is also the first time I have used a long rise method. I put the dough in the oven with the light on at 3:30 pm. I took it out at 6:30 a.m. and it had certaily doubled in height but a crust had formed. I wasn't sure if I should peel off the crust before punching down and kneading again. I decided not to peel it off and just kneaded it all together and it is now on its 2nd rise so we'll see what becomes if this loaf..ha ha! Did the crust form because of the light in the oven? Thanks for any help for this newbie!

Ek's picture
Ek

Milk powder in Hokkaido milky bread- Help needed !

I'm into experimenting with the Hokkaido milky bread,mainly in order to create some interesting products for the local market here.I opted for applying the recipe as recommended here ,in this forum 


http://schneiderchen.de/237Hokkaido-Milky-Loaf.html


 


For some reason,this recipe requires the use of both fresh milk and milk powder. Searching on this forum,I have found out that the only reason for using powder milk is the scalded milk issue (destroying the enzym the reacts with the gluten).In the case ,what is the reasoning for using both fresh milk and powdered milk at the same recipe?Can I replace the powdered milk with fresh milk and in waht ratio? (the original recipe calls for the use of 30 grams powdered milk).Thanks.


 


 


 

DonD's picture
DonD

Eric Kayser's La Tourte de Meule

Background:


In Eric Kayser's book "100% Pain", the Foreword written by the celebrated French chef Alain Ducasse waxed poetic about Kayser's Tourte de Meule, which literally translates to "Millstone Pie" and which is basically a Country Miche made with High Extraction Organic Stone Ground Flour and a Liquid Levain.


 Eric Kayser's "La Tourte de Meule"


In my last blog, I mentioned that I was able to bring back 3 types of Organic Flour from the "Meunerie Milanaise" in Quebec, the same mill that supplies Daniel Leader's "Bread Alone" bakery in Woodstock, New York. In addition to the basic Type 55 AP Flour, I also bought their Type 70 and Type 90 Organic Stone Ground flours. Having secured the proper ingredients, I decided to give EK's Tourte de Meule a try.


EK's original recipe:


- 700 g T 80 Organic Stone Ground Flour


- 300 g T 65 Organic Stone Ground Flour


- 200 g Liquid Levain


- 2 g Fresh Yeast


- 25 g Sea Salt from Guerande


- 700 g Water


Since my flours have slightly higher extraction, I decided to use half T 90 (83% extraction) and half T 70 (81% extraction) Organic Stone Ground Flour. I also halved the recipe to 500 g total Flour Mix and converted the yeast amount to 1/8 teaspoon Instant Yeast (for 500 g total flour). I used Grey Sea Salt from Guerande and Deer Park Spring Water. My Liquid Levain build was 100% hydration using T 70 Flour.


I modified the procedures slightly from Kayser's instructions. He calls for mixing all the ingredients, fermenting the dough at room temperature for 2-1/2 hours with stretch and fold at 15 minutes and then at 1-1/2 hours, shaping and proofing in banneton for 2 hours before baking.


My Procedures:


- Combine the Flour Mix and Water and autolyse for 30 minutes.


- Add the Liquid Levain, Yeast and Salt and knead with a dough hook on slow speed for 2 minutes.


- Do 10 stretch and fold in the bowl at 45 minutes interval 4 times.


- Ferment the dough at room temperature for 1 hour and retard in the refrigerator for 24 hours.


- Shape the dough into a Boule and let the dough rise in a lined Banneton for 1 hour.


- Bake in preheated 440 degrres F oven for 15 minutes with steam and at 410 degrees F without steam for 30 minutes.


Results:





The loaf had great oven spring. The exterior had a deep amber color and was nice and crusty. The smell was sweet and caramelly. The crumb was open and medium soft with a slight chewiness. The crumb color was beige with fine specks of bran, similar to a whole wheat crumb. The flavor was wheaty, tangy with a touch of acidity. When sliced and toasted, it took on a whole new dimension. The taste of toasty grain came out with an extra dose of sweetness. Overall, I was very pleased with the result.


Don


 


 


 

subfuscpersona's picture
subfuscpersona

Susan's Simple Sourdough Challenge - Take Two

SUSAN'S SIMPLE SOURDOUGH CHALLENGE - TAKE TWO


On October 4th, ehanner's blog presented Susan's Simple Small Sourdough Challenge. Eric's challenge was simple - make Susan's bread and report back. My first attempt at Susan's bread was posted to Susan's Simple Sourdough Challenge - Take One on November 7, 2009. I was so enthralled with her bread I made it a second time a few days later.


Susan's basic recipe and method can be found on her blog post of April 17, 2008. I would also recommend you check out Susan's Blog for variations and lots of great photos of her bread.


The ingredients are straightforward: sourdough starter, unbleached bread flour (either regular or high gluten), whole grain flour, water and salt. Dough hydration is 70%.


What really makes this bread special is her method (minimal kneading and periodic stretch-and-folds, a long bulk fermentation and, after shaping, an overnight proof in the refrigerator). The only change I made to her method was to add a one hour autolyse at the very beginning (combine all the flour and water, roughly mix and let rest, covered, at room temperature, for one hour). After the autolyse, the starter and salt were mixed in and from that point I followed her instructions.


The dough can be shaped as a boule or a batard. Susan usually shapes it as a boule and covers the dough with a heat-proof metal bowl for the first 15 minutes of the bake. (If shaped as a batard, she suggests using the lid of a turkey roaster). Covered baking eliminates the need to steam the oven and results in great oven spring.


For this trial, I used my 100% hydration sourdough starter, unbleached bread flour, rye flour (home milled), ordinary tap water and sea salt. I shaped the dough as a batard (I prefer this shape) and used the bottom of an enameled metal turkey roaster as the cover.


This is a wonderful bread. A nice sourdough flavor, open crumb, crispy crust. Here are photos...


Kneaded Dough Ready for Bulk Ferment


My Rising Container - a plastic basket lined with a cotton tea towel rubbed with rice flour


Risen Dough Ready to be Baked.


On the Peel (a cookie sheet) and Slashed


Cooling After the Bake


Crumb (photo is a little blurry - sorry!)

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