The Fresh Loaf

News & Information for Amateur Bakers and Artisan Bread Enthusiasts

Most bookmarked

  • Pin It
dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

Pizzas at Pelican Point

In addition to the Greek bread, about which I wrote yesterday, I made a couple of pizzas while visiting with family this week. I used the pizza dough formula in Hamelman's bread, but used Pivetti typo 00 flour from nybakers.com, made the dough with sourdough rather than commercial yeast, and did all the mixing by hand. 



Ham & Pineapple Pizza 



Chanterelle, Crimini, Leek, Olive, Mozzarella and Parmesan Pizza



Slice



Jonathan & Glenn watching Pizza TV


The chopped veggies were for the fab barbecued turkey gumbo brother Glenn made for dinner. The pizzas were just an appetizer.


David

Shiao-Ping's picture
Shiao-Ping

Miche 50/50/50

I read in MC's beautiful blog, farine-mc.com, that Miche is not her favorite bread but that she can understand how someone can go wild about it.  She said, "It is a majestic bread ... rich with the lore and fervor of the old days."    That is exactly how I feel about Miche!  "... rich with the lore and fervor of the old days." 


The word, Miche, conjures up for me images of a past full of hardship and labour, and yet, romances, at the same time.  Romances, not in the true sense of the word, but in a nostalgic way, referring to the simple, unsophisticated, and natural way of living.


One of the pseudo-Miche I made was Sourdough 50/50 nearly four months ago.  I was not happy with the bread at the time and had wanted to re-make it ever since.  But, No, I had to do something slightly different.  I could not even follow my own script.  I introduced one more element into my Sourdough 50/50 to make this Miche 50/50/50.  In addition to 50% levain, and 50% Poolish, of the final dough flour, I added 50% old dough.  The old dough was a piece of dough reserved from a previous bake a couple of days ago.  This piece of dough did not go through bulk fermentation or proofing.  It was sectioned off and placed in the refrigerator straight away.


Apart from being whimsical and having fun, I had but one purpose for doing this - to see how adding a piece of old dough would improve the flavour of the crumb, along with the levain and Poolish which I already had.  This is nothing new.  Many people have done something similar.  And here is my Miche 50/50/50:


 


                


 


                                                         


                        


 


 In order to be able to score the dough easily, I went for an overall lower hydration of 63%, compared to 68% for Sourdough 50/50.  I wanted to have some sort of Chinese tofu look  on the crust.  As a result, I gave up some openness of the crumb.


  


               


 


                        


 


The crumb was exceptionally flavourful, which might come through the close-up shot below:


 


                             


 


The crumb is very sour to my taste, due to the lower hydration too. 


When I prepare my Poolish, I did not put in a pinch of instant yeast, which one would normally do.  I wonder if this has anything to do with the slightly dense interior structure of the Miche.


If you are interested in trying the idea in this post, I would suggest a dough hydration of no lower than 67 - 68%, and definitely a pinch of instant yeast to go with your Poolish!


 


                                             


Shiao-Ping               

CaptainBatard's picture
CaptainBatard

It takes a village to raise a Pan D'oro....

It takes a village to raise a Pan D'oro... the village is all the people who impart their knowledge and encouragement here at the  Fresh Loaf and out in the blogosphere.  I really want to thank Susan@ Wild Yeast for her step by step directions and formula , MC@Farine and Foolishpoolish and many more for sharing their experience and inspiring baking blogs....without them i would still be making quick breads.


Pan D'oro, or bread of gold, and it's cousin Panetonne, have a long history in Italy dating back to when ancient Romans sweetened a type of leavened bread with honey. In Italy and France, the panettone comes with an often varied history, but one that invariably states that its birthplace is in Milan (Wikipedia) Throughout the ages this "tall, leavened fruitcake" makes cameo appearances in the arts: it is shown in a sixteenth century painting. The Pan D'oro is, by any stretch of the imagination, not a quick bread. It takes time and patience, but what it really takes to raise a Pandoro is millions and millions of beasties that make up the strong sweet starter. I also found an interesting scientific explanation of the whole fermentation process here and time table that I will read when I have some time. I have seen pictures of Lievito naturale legato or bound sourdough and it still remained a mystery. I basically used a 100gr starter-50w-100f with a 4 hour refreshment cycle at 85* and it worked just fine.


 


                                                                                  


 


Another important consideration is the temperature of the Lievito naturale during fermentation... a whopping 85*, it being winter in the North East and my house hovering around 62-65*(by choice). I would have to fall back on the old pot holder trick (3 folded pot holders=76*) in the stove door with the light on. It works in a pinch but, I always run into this problem of proofing temperature. In the summer it is too hot (I can't bake or i have to use ice water baths) and in the winter it is too cold. I've been tooling around with many ideas on how to make a proofer work... a small car refrigerator/cooler or wine vault for the summer and a heater/light bulb for the winter. The Pan D'oro made it happen. I turned again to the internet village bakers and found a design for a proofer that Steve@Bread cetera posted @Fresh Loaf, and I took it a step further. I went looking for a thermostat for reptiles.... ended up at Craigs list with the perfect solution... a Ranco ETC microprocessor =based temperature controller thermostat that plugs into the heating unit or refrigeration system. It really takes the prize and i got it for a good price from a home brewer who started making babies and his wife made him stop making suds. So I now have a proofer in my insulated pantry cabinet that i can set at any temperature and forget about. Well almost... you have to remember the basics: set your timer and remember what temperature you set it at last!


 


                                                                                         


 


Well.. can you tell what is coming? I crawled into bed about 1 o'clock after making chocolate biscotti, a batch of sour dough challah, stollen and got the Pan D'oro tucked away for it's final rise. It took me a minute to fall asleep but I woke up startled from a dream of sugar plum fairies way too early! I lay in bed thinking I had till noon before I would have to bake them off... and then it hit me..."Oh S***t...I left the proofer set at 85*!" I ran down the stairs and opened the door to the proofer and just laughed when i saw the dough going way over the top of the mold. I quickly turned on the stove to pre-heat and made some coffee. The overflow problem was two fold. When I went on line to see how much dough my Italian mold would take, I made an incorrect assumption. The smaller Portuguese molds takes 500gr. so I thought for that for this big mold, 1000grs did not seen out of line. Wrong. But it was a mistake that could be easily fixed and no one would know  (and Sara and I got to taste what I had to cut away.) I must say.... the stollen and the Pan D'oro were the exclamation points to a delicious Christmas Day dinner at Rick and Rita's. (Folks liked the Challah and the double-dipped chocolate biscotti too. )   Hapy New Year to all.




                                                


 


                                                


 


                                           


 


 


                                 




                                                                        I am submitting this to Susan@Yeastspotting

HUGO's picture
HUGO

A mock sour dough loaf

Has anyone tried to create a sour dough using lemon juice, various vinegars, buttermilk, or even vitamine C ?   I notice that my sourdough starter weakens the gluten and changes the texture compared to commerical yeasts. Also the crumb seems to have much smaller holes in the crumb using a sourdough starter.  ANY REPLY WOULD BE MOST WELCOME    Happy New Year to everyone.

ericb's picture
ericb

Pain Rustique with Whole Wheat

Pain Rustique with Whole Wheat


The inspiration for this formula derives from Hamelman's Pain Rustique, which is a high hydration dough made with a commercial yeast poolish. The crumb is very open and moist, much like a ciabatta, perfect for dipping in olive oil.


I had some neglected starter in the fridge which I decided to use in place of the yeast in the poolish. I suspected that it wasn't strong enough to raise an entire loaf, but I knew it would add a little extra flavor. Also, I used whole wheat flour in the poolish. I think this lends a mild sourness without covering up other flavors. This is especially true in bread made primarily with white flour.


The end result was as you would expect from a high hydration dough: open crumb, soft crust, and almost-buttery overtones. It was very much like a no-knead loaf, or Reinhart's pain a l'ancienne.



OVERALL FORMULA    
Bread Flour 21 ounces 84%  
WW Flour 4 ounces 16%  
Water 17 ounces 68%  
Salt 0.5 ounces 2%  
Yeast 0.35 ounces 1% (2.7 tsp)
Total 42.85   171%  
         
POOLISH        
WW Flour 4 ounces 100%  
Water 4 ounces 100%  
Starter 1 ounces 25%  
  9   225%  
FINAL DOUGH      
         
Bread Flour 21 ounces    
starter 9 ounces    
Water 13 ounces    
Salt 0.5 ounces    
Yeast 0.35 ounces    

     
         
       

Method

1. Mix poolish and ferment in a warm place for 8-12 hours. Should be bubbly.

2. Autolyse: Mix poolish, flour, and water, let rest for 20 minutes.

3. Mix final dough: add salt and yeast, mix well until gluten strands form. I did a few impromptu "slap and folds" in the mixing bowl. This requires wet hands.

4. Primary Fermentation: 70 minutes. Fold at 25 and 50 minutes.

5. Turn out dough onto well floured bench. Cut in half and shape loosely. I make boules, but you could also just leave the dough as rectangles.

6.a Preheat over to 500F.

6b. Proof: Let dough rest for 20 minutes. I placed my floured-side down (seam side up) on a proofing towel, and covered with mixing bowls to prevent drying out.

7. Carefully turn dough onto parchment paper, seam side down. Score with a simple square or single cut.

8. Slide into oven, steam, and turn oven to 460. Bake for 15 minutes. Open oven to let out steam, bake for another 15-20.


kibbles's picture
kibbles

What do you call the "mold" bakeware piece for subway/grinder/hoagie rolls?

Hi Everyone!


I am extremely new to cooking. I have been trying to make some grinder/subway/hoagie rolls and have been trying different recipies. I want to purchase a bakeware product online that is like a "mold" for those rolls. (For example, if you go to the Subway restaurant and watch the person take the rolls out of the oven ... there is this red silicone "mold" piece that all of the rolls are on top of and they flip that flimsy piece over and all the rolls fall out). The piece looks like it is made of silicon, and fits several rolls in there (it's like a U shape thats 1 or 2 feet long). I went to the chef store nearby and I found a baguette "mold" but it doesn't really do the trick.


Moral of the story is I want to buy those molds like Subway uses, but I don't know what they are called and have been searching for an hour to no avail. Any help would be really appreciated!!


 


THANKS!!

Doc Tracy's picture
Doc Tracy

nutrional yeast

Is there anything I can do with this stuff? My sweet husband came home with it because he couldn't find baking yeast last night while at the health food store. Hate to feed it to the dogs as a supplement but that's what I'd probably do.

Cosmopolita's picture
Cosmopolita

Escarole Pizza


This is a escarole pie with pizza dough,  the typical and traditional regional Italian cuisine.   
 


Escarole Pizza

For the pizza dough:


  • 1/4 ounce package yeast

  • 1 1/2 cups warm water

  • 3 cups flour

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil

  • Coarse salt



For the escarole



  • 2-3 head of escarole

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil

  • 3 cloves garlic

  • 10 black olives, pitted and sliced

  • 1 2-ounce can flat anchovies, chopped

  • 1/2 cup pine nuts

  • 1/2 cup raisins

  • 1 tablespoon capers, rinsed and drained

  • Freshly ground pepper



Preparation
Make the pizza dough. Dissolve the yeast in one cup lukewarm water and let it stand for five minutes, or until it has begun to ferment. If the mixture does not ferment, throw it away and use another package of yeast.

- If using a food processor, fit the bowl with a steel blade and put in the flour, olive oil, salt, yeast mixture and remaining water into the bowl. Process until the dough forms a ball - about 20 seconds. Place the dough on a smooth surface and knead for a couple of minutes, adding more flour if the dough is too sticky.

- If using the hand method, combine the flour and salt and place the mixture on a smooth working surface. Make a well in the center and add the yeast mixture, olive oil and remaining water. Gradually work the flour into the liquid, using a wooded spoon. When the dough is too stiff to work with the spoon, knead until it is smooth and shiny, about eight to 10 minutes. Add more flour if the dough gets too sticky.

Put the dough in a large floured mixing bowl. Cover with a damp cloth or plastic wrap and let it rise for two hours in a warm place (the back of the stove, for example) until doubled in size.

Meanwhile, make the escarole topping. Wash the leaves and simmer them in boiling water for five minutes. Drain, squeeze out the water and chop the leaves coarsely. Set aside.

Heat the olive oil in a frying pan and gently saute the garlic, olives, anchovies and pine nuts until the garlic begins to turn golden. Add the escarole and cook uncovered stirring frequently for 10 minutes over moderate heat. Stir in the raisins and capers and season with pepper. Tilt pan to remove excess water. Let it cool.

Meanwhile, preheat oven to 400 degrees F (200° C).
Punch down the dough, sprinkle it with flour. Cut off two third of dough and roll out the dough with a rolling pin directly onto the pan to covering bottom and sides . Spread escarole filling over crust in pan and if you want, sprinkle grated cheese and black ground pepper over the top. Roll out remaining dough into a round on a lightly floured board. Transfer to pan, covering filling. Press edges to seal. Bake the pizza for about 25 minutes.


 


Picture and recipe here:



http://croce-delizia.blogspot.com/2009/12/pizza-di-scarola.html


Pizza di scarola


 

longwinters's picture
longwinters

Chicago pizza dough blues

I have been trying to make a Chicago deep dish pizza for over a year.  I have tried copycat recipies with so so results.  The biggest problem I have is the bottom of the pizza and the crust edge getting done, too brown, before the middle is.  I have tried different temps (my oven only goes to 500), rack heights, pizza stone underneath, cast iron pans etc.   I have no problems with thin pizza as I pre-bake my crust for a few minutes and keep my moisture levels down on veggies etc...


One other problem I have is that the crust is too thick in the area around the bottom of the pan where it meets the sides.


What am I missing?


 


Long

Shiao-Ping's picture
Shiao-Ping

Mathias Dahlgren's Swedish Rye Bread - with an apple twist

The 40-year old Swedish chef-owner, Mathias Dahlgren, has two Michelin-starred restaurants, Bon Lloc and Matsalen, the latter in Stockholm.  His style of cuisine is Swedish traditional as well as innovational (a fusion of Scandinavian, Tuscan, Californian and Oriental dishes). 


I saw a picture of his Swedish Rye Bread in Coco: 10 World-Leading Masters Choose 100 Contemporary Chefs, page 101, and decided to give it a try.  The recipe uses a rye sourdough starter.  It also has a high percentage of instant yeast and molasses, which is 4.7% and 19%, respectively, of total flour, rye gains and seeds.  The approx. dough hydration is 84%. 


The bread is exceptionally moist and flavourful.  For a person who does not normally like a lot of rye flour in bread, I find this bread quite delicious.  The bitterness from the Black Strap Molasses that I used, together with all the grains and seeds and the fermented rye flour, formed a very interesting flavor and texture.


There is something, however, not quite how I would like it in a fully-loaded bread like this one that, if no changes were made to the recipe, I would probably not make it again.  As with the Chinese concept of ying (feminine) and yang (masculine), for something to be balanced, there has to be a ying and a yang element simultaneously.  For instance, the enjoyment of a fatty and salty pork chop (the yang) is enhanced if it is eaten with, say, apple sauce (the ying) - the sourness in the apple sauce cuts through the fat while the sweetness in the fruit compliments the saltiness in the meat.  Another example: the best chocolate lava cake would have some salt in there, or the sweetness would make you sick. 


The issue with this bread for me is: it is perhaps a tad too masculine (too much "yang") because of all the rye grains and seeds in the recipe.  I have no doubt that there are plenty of people who love this bread just the way it is.  I just have a difference taste.  To address the imbalance to my taste, I am adding apple puree as a hydration for the final dough.  Also, I have changed the formula to a sourdough version.   I find molasses an attractive ingredient to add to a bread full of rye, grains, and seeds but I cut it down in my formula (below) as too much molasses makes the bread bitter (which some people may find it an attractive taste).  Here is my Swedish Sourdough Rye Bread with apple puree:


 


               


                                            SP's Swedish Sourdough Rye Bread with apple puree


 


My formula for Swedish Sourdough Rye Bread with Apple


Day 1 - soaker



  • 330 g water

  • 125 g crushed rye grains

  • 43 g rye meal flour (whole rye flour)

  • 83 g sunflower seeds

  • 53 g linseeds (flax seeds)

  • 11 g salt

  • 68 g rye sourdough starter (or any ripe starter) @100% hydration


Mix all the ingredients together and let stand at room temperature for 12 hours or at least overnight. 


Also on Day 1 - rye sourdough starter (Note: Mathias Dahlgren's original recipe uses instant yeast and so there is no rye sour build.)



  • 20 g any ripe starter @ 100% hydration

  • 123 g medium rye flour

  • 70 g water


Mix the ingredients together and let stand at room temperature for 12 hours or until ripe. 


Day 2 - final dough



  • 110 g medium rye flour

  • 123 g white flour

  • 713 g all of the soaker

  • 213 g all of the rye sourdough starter

  • 70 - 100 g molasses (Note: Mathias Dahlgren's original recipe has 140 g of molasses but I find at that quantity the bread is a bit bitter.)

  • 345 g of cooked Granny Smith apple puree or shopped-bought apple sauce  (To make your own apple puree, steam 320 g of chopped Granny Smith until cooked, then puree it with 25 g of honey)


Total dough weight 1585 g; estimated dough hydration 84 - 85%.


Procedure



  1. Mix half of the apple puree with molasses and the other half with the starter. 

  2. Then, mix all ingredients together until thoroughly combined. 

  3. Grease two bread tins. Divide the dough by two and place them in the bread tins. Cover and let rise in a warm place for 3 hours (my room temperature was 28 - 30 C). 

  4. Pre-heat oven to 220C / 425F.  Bake with some steam for the first 3 - 5 minutes, then lower the heat to 185C / 365F and bake for a further 40 minutes. 

  5. Turn out the loaves immediately after baking and let cool on a wire rack (or the bottom will be soggy). 


 


                        


 


My father-in-law and his wife came to stay for Christmas.  They are very discerning diners and both keep in good shape.  They have been told by their doctor to NOT have too much bread made of wheat flour and that if they must have bread, rye and spelt breads are the best.  Whenever they come to visit, I try to make rye and/or spelt sourdough for them.  For today's lunch I served this bread.  They loved it.


 


        


 


                                  


 


Tomorrow morning, when my father-in-law and his wife leave, they will have this little prezzie, all nicly sliced-up to go.


 


                                                      


 


Shiao-Ping

Pages