The Fresh Loaf

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varda's picture
varda

Baking with home milled and bolted flour

Lately I have been baking with flour home-milled from hard red winter wheat from Upinngil Farm in Gill Massachusetts.     I have also been experimenting with sifting the milled flour to achieve different results, and after reading about bolting - see Andy's post and note below - with bolting as well.   My first attempt at bolting using a knee-high nylon didn't go well.   The less said the better.    Then I realized that cheese cloth has a fine mesh and might possibly be well suited for the task at hand.    So I have been playing around with using cheese cloth to bolt fresh milled flour, without much good baking results.   

Today, I came back to it and made another attempt.    I decided to use my regular white starter, rather than working with a whole wheat starter, which adds another layer of complexity.   And also constrained the process by determining that I would only use the Upinngil whole wheat for the final dough.   

I proceeded as follows:  

1.  Mill 514 g of wheat berries at medium setting

2.  Sift with #24 wire strainer

3.  Mill what is caught in the sieve at fine setting

4.  Sift with #30 wire strainer

This process removed 50g of bran.

5.   Place flour on top of a square of cheese cloth and form a bag by folding up corners and securing with a twist tie

6.  Shake, bounce, bump, etc. into a wooden bowl.    (Note this step takes awhile.)

At the end of this process I had 226g of golden flour with only tiny flecks of bran in it, and left in the cheese cloth was 226g of a coarse flour / semolina mix.  

I decided to make two loaves - one with the more refined flour, and one with the less refined flour.  They both came out quite breadlike.

The one with the refined flour was a bit better behaved than the other.

I would say both tasted good with the second loaf with a much more rustic, coarse crumb.

Here are the formulae:

 

Starter builds

 

 

 

 

 

12/7/2012

 

2:30 PM

9:30 PM

Total

Percent

Seed

29

 

 

 

 

KAAP

16

47

95

158

95%

Whole Rye

1

3

5

9

5%

Water

12

34

67

113

67%

 

 

 

 

280

9.7

12/8/2012

 

 

 

 

 

 

Final

Starter

Total

Percent

 

KAAP

 

71

71

24%

 

Whole Rye

 

4

4

1%

 

Bolted Upinngil Tier 1

226

 

226

75%

 

Water

149

50

199

66%

 

Salt

5

 

5

1.7%

 

Starter

125

 

 

25%

 

 

 

 

505

 

 

Factor

0.45

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Final

Starter

Total

Percent

 

KAAP

 

71

71

22%

 

WR

 

4

4

1%

 

Bolted Upinngil Tier 2

226

 

226

69%

 

Med Rye

25

 

25

8%

 

Water

182

50

232

71%

 

Salt

7

 

7

2.1%

 

Starter

125

 

 

23%

 

 

 

 

565

 

 

Factor

0.45

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I mixed the first dough for 10 minutes, and the second for 20.    It was necessary to add a bit of medium rye to the second dough to make it adhere.   I was very worried about over fermenting and proofing these loaves so I erred on the side of under-doing it.    I fermented the first loaf for 2 hours, and the second for 1.5 hours, both with two stretch and folds.   Then proofed each of them for only 45 minutes.   They were baked together at 450F with steam for 20 minutes, and without for 25.  

Note:   Bolting is an old (say 17th century) method of refining flour by passing milled wheat through successively finer and finer cloth mesh tubes.   See for instance http://www.angelfire.com/journal/millbuilder/boulting.html%C2%A0%C2%A0   So technically I have done a hybrid of metal sifting and cloth bolting, as I only have one cloth mesh size.  

[Addendum:  For those of you who think that milling, sifting, and now bolting is too messy, please note that only 13g of flour was missing in action.    I'm sure it will be all cleaned up in the fullness of time. ] 

 

greedybread's picture
greedybread

Festive/ Xmas bread of Lake Como- MATALOC !!

The Xmas bread (but also festivals) of Lake Como.

Mataloc is also offered as a dessert………with a bit of mascarpone

This is what we want!!

This bread is chocca block with goodies and not so much butter that its too rich.

Very similar to panettone but the taste is a little different.

This bread needs a serious warning!!

Seriously addictive….

So light, yet not overly sweet, so that you can munch away and OHHHHH its all gone !!

Squisiti!

What do you need? 

The willpower of Job not to eat it all……………..by yourself…………

You will need to allow time to make this…. best start at night as it needs overnight 1st proving or at least 8-10 hours to rest.

So without further ado…

LETS GET YEASTY!! VERY MUCH SO TODAY!!

 

Ready for first rise…

For Pre- Ferment:

2tsp of dried yeast

Half a cup of warm water

Half a cup of Strong bakers flour

For dough:

Half a tsp of yeast

1 tbsp honey

1/4 cup of warm water

1 cup castor sugar

3 large eggs

3 cups of Strong bakers flour

Pinch of salt

2 tsp fennel( or anise) seeds

Grated zest of 2 oranges

Grated zest of 2 lemons

160g butter

chopped and flour dusted fruit and nuts

 

Fruit/ nut mix:

1 cup hazelnuts

1 cup pecans ( i prefer but you can use walnuts)

4 dried figs chopped

1 large cup raisins

1 tbsp flour

 

After first rise

 

Stir yeast (pre ferment) into warm water and leave 15 minutes until creamy.

Add flour and mix well, cover and let stand for an hour.

Place in mixing bowl, 2nd amount of yeast, with water and honey.

Allow to stand for 10 minutes until creamy.

Stir in the sugar and eggs, then add in pre ferment.

Add in the zest, fennel, salt and flour.

Mix the butter into dough .

Knead in mixer for 5-6 minutes until smooth but sticky.

Place in a well oiled bowl and cover with gladwrap and leave at room temperature overnight to double in volume.

Ready to add fruit and nuts

Lightly turn out dough on lightly floured area and press out the dough.

Toss fruit and nuts in flour and spread 1/3 of fruit etc on the flattened dough.

Roll up dough and flatten again, repeating the above process until all fruit and nuts are incorporated in the dough.

Allow dough to rest ten minutes in between additions of fruit and nuts.

Adding the yum!!

 

When all fruit is incorporated, place in well oiled mould.

I use a big casserole dish (see below) I have that happens to have tall sides!!

THE BIG BLUE BEASTIE!!

But I have to say that the only disadvantage to this , is that you can’t hang the cake upside down to cool.

www.thefreshloaf.com

It is so light, you need to hang it to cool so it doesn’t collapse in, which mine did slightly……..BUT my panettone hasn’t as yet:)

Panettone moulds are good.

In fact, I could put them inside my big blue beasty as I do have paper moulds…..

But they need to be WELL GREASED!!

I will use my blue dish to make monster panettone.

Panettone papers/ moulds

 

Ok, back to recipe…

Cover and allow to rise for 3-4 hours until doubles in size.

Heat oven to 210 celsius and place Mataloc in the oven.

Bake for ten minutes and reduce heat to 190 celsius and cook for another 45-60 minutes.

Remove from the mould and allow to cool on rack or try the hanging method above.

Lovely and golden

 

As soon as you are able….

Enjoy, Enjoy, Enjoy!!

A lick of mascarpone ?

Have a wedge (or two)

 

Dont be shy now!!

See the zest and the plump raisins………..

Big bite!

 

Recipe Adapted from Carol Field’s “The Italian Baker”, 2 Ed, 2011.

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

75% Whole Grain YW / SD Caramelized Onion, Wild Rice, Sprouts & Baltika Porter Bread

This is another take on a multi-grain bake we did not s long ago that you can find here;

60% Whole Grain SD / YW Bread With Caraway, Rye Chops, Coffee and Cocoa

 

This time we upped the whole grains to 75% and the hydration to a little over 85%.  We dropped the chops and added multi-grain sprouts.  The whole grains and sprouts were rye, spelt and whole wheat.  A combination we like very much as long as the rye equals the other two grains.

 

We also decided to make this bread a little more Russian by using their Baltika #6 Porter for a majority of the liquid in this bread and all of the dough wetness if you overlook the barley malt.

 

We were overcome by guilt and also knowing that The Hempster would not be her kindly self if we left out the seeds so we tossed in some caraway and coriander to perfume this dark bread in a traditional way - but not too much.

 

Hanseata, probably in a fit of non-hempness, is also the creator of her very fine wild rice bread that we like so much.   Thinking she would still be upset that there are no hemp seeds in this bread, we plunked in some cooked wild rice hoping to appease Her Hempness with one last gesture of jester.

 

Keeping with the black theme this bread was calling out for, we also added in some caramelized onions, quite a lot actually, with its deglazed reduced juices as Eric, Andy, Ian and so many TFL bakers are wont to do out ofa  honed professional education and experience for many of them that know what they are doing and a playful, inquisitive wonderment of the strange for Ian and myself.

  

One last shot at anti-establishment went to the Combo YW and SD rye and Desem starter and levain we cooked up over two builds.  As we contemplated the dark path we were about to trip along, in total disregard of anything sane or normal, my apprentice became edgy, quite uncomfortable really and took on the look of one sick puppy. No, it wasn’t Toady Tom’s Toasted Tidbits at fault here even though we put 15 g of them in the mix.

  

It is a look that I see most often right before she upchucks - which she did... then murmuring under her lowly growl something about death to all dark baking masters or another…….. It seemed she got sick after noticing that the bread lacked nuts.  She recovered quickly after the upheaval when she realized there were already plenty of nuts out of their shells in the kitchen as it was - so no extra nuts were required for this Holiday bake.  

  

After all of what would pass for bread 101 on Empress Ying’s home planet, we hoped that this bread would be a shade darker than a dark one should be and also one that we could be proud to pair with the fine Pate Maison that we had baked and smoked up for the Holidays the day before.  Hopefully, both will pair well with a nice Malbec from Argentina, if one could afford it and a plate of various exotic cheeses from other places even more expensive.

 

Hey, it’s the Holidays and who needs another pair of Santa socks, snowflake ties and Snowman stocking caps anyway.  So, as an option, save enough bread by not getting those things and splurge on some foreign hooch and cheese to share with family and friends instead - all while making the bread and pate that much better.

The crust came out dark, shiny and crispy but, after a 24 hour wait before slicing, it went soft with a slight chew.  This bread cut ¼” slices easily without crumbling.  The crumb was not heavy, slightly open, soft and very moist with little gloss.

 

The taste was where this bread really shines.  Subtle coriander and caraway flavors combine with a stronger caramelized onion taste and the chew of the wild rice and sprouts to go with the complex flavors of the porter, cocoa and coffee.  Very tasty indeed. 

 

We have now eaten it plain, toasted with butter, as a sandwich and toasted with pate – just delicious and the perfect pate platter mate.    

  

Method

The method was straight forward if you remember to start the WW sprouts a day before the spelt and rye sprouts since they take 48 hours to chit instead of 24.  The levain was built over (2) stages of 8 and 4 hours each with an overnight retard of 12 hours following the 12 hours on the counter

The flours, salt, Toady Tom’s Toasted Tidbits, ground flax seed and the red and white malts were autolysed with the Baltika  #6 Porter for 1 hour after my apprentice had tasted about 205 ml of the 500 ml bottle to make sure that it wasn’t a covert left over cold war poison of a 3rd kind.

Once the autolyse and levain came together, we did 10 minutes of French slap and folds and then 3 sets of S&F’s on 30 minute intervals where the seeds and rice were incorporated in the 2nd set and the sprouts on the 3rd set. 

The dough was allowed to ferment and develop for 1 hour before being shaped into an 800 g and one near 500 g loaf and panned. The dough was allowed to proof for 1 hour in a trash bag on the counter before being retarded for 12 hours in the fridge. 

Once out of the fridge the small loaf was allowed to proof for 4 hours on the counter.  The larger one proofed for 4 hours on the counter at 65 - 68 F and an additional 1 ½ hours at  85 F in the make shift microwave proofer that had a cup of boiling water in it. 

Both of these should have been baked in the mini oven but Big Betsy was preheated to 500 F instead with 2 of Sylvia’s steaming pans and a 12”cast iron skillet full of lava rocks on the bottom rack.  The stone was put on the very top rack of the oven to project radiant heat downward to the top of the loaves.

As soon as the small pan went in the temperature was turned down to 450 F for 15 minutes of steam. When the steam was removed the temperature was turned down to 350 F, convection this time.

After 5 minutes the bread was removed from the pan and finished baking directly on the oven rack.  The bread was turned 180 degrees every 5 minutes until the internal temperature reached 190 F. Total baking was 30 minutes when the bread was removed to the cooling rack.

The larger loaf was baked the same way through steam but took an extra 15 minutes at 350 F to reach 190 F internal temperature.

Formula

Mixed Combo Starter

Build 1

Build 2

Total

%

SD Starter

5

 

5

0.99%

Yeast Water

10

 

10

2.63%

WW

10

15

25

6.58%

Rye

30

45

75

19.74%

Spelt

10

15

25

6.58%

Water

40

75

115

30.26%

Total Starter

95

150

245

64.47%

 

 

 

 

 

Starter

 

 

 

 

Hydration

100.00%

 

 

 

Levain % of Total

20.14%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dough Flour

 

%

 

 

Toady Tom's Toasted Tidbits

15

3.95%

 

 

Whole Wheat

35

9.21%

 

 

Dark Rye

141

37.11%

 

 

Whole Spelt

35

9.21%

 

 

AP

154

40.53%

 

 

Dough Flour

380

100.00%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salt

8

2.11%

 

 

Russian Baltika Porter

305

80.26%

 

 

Dough Hydration

80.26%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Total Flour

507.5

 

 

 

Water & Russian Porter 305

432.5

 

 

 

T. Dough Hydration

85.22%

 

 

 

Whole Grain %

74.58%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hydration w/ Adds

85.51%

 

 

 

Total Weight

1,266

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Add - Ins

 

%

 

 

Red Malt

5

1.32%

 

 

White Malt

5

1.32%

 

 

Barley Malt

20

5.26%

 

 

Ground Flax Seed

15

3.95%

 

 

Add- In Total

45

11.84%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Multigrain Sprouts

 

%

 

 

WW

10

2.63%

 

 

Rye

20

5.26%

 

 

Spelt

10

2.63%

 

 

Total Sprouts

40

10.53%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Other Stuff

 

 

 

 

Caramelized Onions.

100

26.32%

 

 

Cocoa

10

2.63%

 

 

Instant Coffee

10

2.63%

 

 

Caraway Seeds

8

2.11%

 

 

Coriander Seed

5

1.32%

 

 

Cooked Wild Rice

100

26.32%

 

 

Total Other Stuff

233

61.32%

 

 

This lunch plate has some thin sliced sliced pate with 100% whole spelt bread, aged super sharp crumbly cheddar cheese, a pickled Serrano pepper, half a Granny Smith apple, some carrot coins, half an avocado, black and pinto re-fried beans, cabbage salad with black raspberries on non fat yogurt. 

 

Marc Brik's picture
Marc Brik

bagels currant and mix spice

I am not a baker. I am a chef, and therefore I got my own ideas how food can work.

I wanted a cinnamon bagel fine crumb with a nice tough crust. No egg, butter, milk or oil.

Right I did do a little research about lye, baking soda, potato water, blanching, rolling and oven temperature

Make potato water:

  • 180 gr nice golden potato can be any like annabel or agria
  • 1 ltr water

cook the potato, no salt. cool down and blend

make a starter by mixing:

  • 3 C bakers flour
  • 1 C rye flour
  • 1 t active dried yeast
  • 3  1/2 C room temprature potato water (will be creamy)

place everything in a kitchen mixer use a hook, I use a kitchen aid, wait until everything is mixed and put on full until the dough starts to crawl up the hook. This can take 10 minutes.

Covered the bowl with plastic and left it to double in volume on the bench

Back under the machine with the hook and add:

  • 3 C bakers flour
  • 2 t malt flour
  • 1/2 t dried active yeast
wait until everything is mixed and put on Medium low until the dough starts to crawl up the hook. This can take 10 minutes.
add: 
  • 1  1/2 t iodised fine salt
  • 1 C currants (dry)
  • 2 t mixed spice (cinnamon, cardamom, anise, clove)
mix very well. easy to follow just look at the colour of the spice, don't worry about the currants.

I placed the dough in a large plastic container with lid and wrapped it up in a blanket. until again double in volume.

divide into portions of 100gr and round up

 

 Bring a pan of water to the boil (apprx 5ltr) add 2 T malt flour mixed with a little cold water, and 1 T baking Soda

push your index finger through the middle and make an even hole in the middle (even better: roll into a ribbon and connect the ends with a little water, press to hold)

leave on baking paper covered tray for another 20 minutes under a cloth

blanch the bagels in the boiling water for 1 minute (1/2 minute each side, flip them over in the water) 

pre heat the oven top and bottom heat 260°C no fan (500°F) 

place back on the baking tray and let them cool, meanwhile they will rise a little

place the tray in the middle of the oven, lower the oven to 230-225°C (450°F) bake for 22 minutes 

let them cool!  let them cool! let them cool!  time will give the crust it's toughness and the bread can settle.

very nice with some aged cheddar, or dried salami it's worth the wait

 

Have fun making them and bon appetite

 

golgi70's picture
golgi70

Stollen

I've been lurking, posting, and questioning The Fresh Loaf for some years now and I figure i could share for the holidays. 

Christmas Stollen: 

This is an odd recipe but man it is delicious.  I guess the only odd thing is all the yeast goes into the sponge.  Usually I see this and make adjustments to a forumla immediately but this one is just so good in the end I haven't changed a thing.  

Makes 12 - 500 gram - loaves

Soaker

Diced Candied Lemon Peel                                   100 g

Diced Candied Orange Peel                                  100 g

Orange Zest                                                           from 3 oranges

Lemon Zest                                                            from 3 lemons

Raisins                                                                    1350 g

Almonds, sliced (toasted)                                       300 g

Walnuts (toasted)                                                   150 g

Pecans  (toasted)                                                     150 g

Vanilla Beans                                                          2 

Spiced Rum                                                             1/2 Cup

-------------------------------------------------------------------

Mix All together and let stand at room temp 12-24 hours.  

(Don't forget to remove the vanilla bean husks.  I add to my vanilla sugar or my bottle of rum. 

Sponge:

Whole Milk, scalded and cooled                               666 g

Malted Bread Flour                                                   666 g

Yeast, instant                                                              40 g

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Mix together and let sit at room temp between 1-4 hours pending temps of room and ingredients.  I look for it to double and then proceed as I think this is mostly a kick start for the yeast to get going in this heavy bread.

Dough:

Malted Bread Flour                                                      1333 g

Butter, unsalted and softened                                       900 g

Sugar                                                                              270 g

Sea Salt                                                                            40 g

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------Place Sponge in a mixing bowl with hook attatchment.  Add Flour Butter and Sugar.  Mix on Speed 1 until all is incorporated.  

Add Salt and continue until blended in.  Raise speed to medium and mix until medium development.  (showing elasticity but not passing the window pane test)

Add soaker and let rest a few minutes.  Now mix on speed 1 until fruit is getting incorporated.  Turn to speed 2 and continue until dough is smooth and the fruit well dispersed.  

Bulk Ferment:  2 hours

Shape:  See online tutorials on stollen shaping (its really easy)

Proof: 2 hours

Bake at 325 for 25-35 minutes.  As soon as they come out brush with melted butter and toss with vanilla sugar (regular sugar works too)

Now dust top, bottom, sides with powdered sugar while still warm.  

Let cool comepletely.  

Now heavily dust the entire loaf with powdered sugar and wrap tightly in parchment.  Place in an airtight container and age up to a month.  

This is delicious fresh but becomes creamier over time.  

Happy Baking

Josh

                                                             

varda's picture
varda

Chewy bagels - help!

Hi,   I just made bagels for the first time in a while, and the first after experiencing the quintessential New York bagel at Ess-A-Bagel.    I don't know if my consciousness is raised or what, but I realized the the exterior of my bagels are too chewy.    I used Hamelman's formula with two changes to make my life easier.   1.  No bagel boards.   I didn't turn the bagel in mid-bake.  2.  After boiling, I rinsed in very cold water and then put into a cold bowl of water for a few minutes.    Calling it ice water would be a bit generous.    Other than that, I tried to follow exactly.    I used KA Sir Lancelot.    Did my simplifications cause the chewy crust?    Of the many beauties of the Ess-A-Bagel bagel is the contrast of the crisp crust and the chewy interior.    Is there a secret way to get this?   Thank you.  -Varda

RunningBadger's picture
RunningBadger

When is proofing done using stretch and fold?

I'm new to using the stretch and fold method and can not figure out when the bread has finished proofing?  Before with traditional kneading I would knead till window pane and then let proof tildoughty doubled, or about there depending on the recipe.  Im not sure with S&F if I should do one morotu cycle or shape for baking.

 

Thanks for the help.

greedybread's picture
greedybread

Hoots Man!! Scottish Baps for Kiwi Burgers….

That’s if they make it that long.

Luckily I made these in the afternoon and they are going to be our burger buns…

Should I have said ” Oooouch man?’

I was trying to remember what Oor Wullie said….

Kiwiburger…

Greedy fingers will be looking at pinching buns until dinner!! but if they do…. they will be starving at dinner…

A lovely simple recipe to make and relatively fast in the yeasty beasty world. 

You could even make the dough the night before, prove and shape them, retard it overnight and then take them out of the fridge about 3 pm (or get children to do when they get home from school).

They will be ready when you get home between 5-6 pm,  to pop straight into the oven.

Bap fresh from the oven..

These are best eaten the day of making but still ok the next day….

But they are not called morning rolls for nothing:)

These baps are special as I could not find my pastry brush soooooo…..

I used one of my Bobbi Brown make up (never used) brushes as a pastry brush:)

No other bap can say it is so privileged.

I am sure Bobbi would cringe but would know it was all in a good cause.

Shhh, don’t tell Bobbi!

So let’s get yeasty!!

What will you need?

3/4 cup of warm milk

3/4 cup of warm water

2 tsp sugar

4 cups of Plain flour

Pinch of Salt

17g of dried yeast

Little oil for brushing bowl

Little extra milk for brushing

Extra flour for dusting or durum semolina.

Dough ready to prove..

Warm milk and water and combine together, mix in the sugar and then the dried yeast.

Combine well and allow to become frothy, usually about 10 minutes.

Place all dry ingredients in a mixing bowl and mix through.

Add the wet yeasty mix to the dry, forming a nice dough.

Knead for about 6-8 minutes until smooth and elasticy.

Lightly oil a bowl and place dough in there, cover and allow to prove for 90-120 minutes.

Ready to roll

Turn dough out onto a floured bench/ board.

Cut dough into 10 pieces and roll into balls.

Allow balls to sit for 15 minutes and then roll out into ovals.

Resting

Place ovals on a well floured baking tray, i also used baking paper.

Allow to rise, covered, for 45 minutes.

Pre heat oven to 210 Celsius.

Brush baps with milk and then dust with flour or as I did with 2 of them , durum semolina.

Ovals before proving

After proving and dusted

Place in oven and bake for 20 minutes.

Do not over bake as you want them to remain soft.

Cooling…

Remove from the oven and allow to cool on racks.

When cool, slice and enjoy stuffing them with bacon, egg, cheese and avocado!!

very nice!!

Or coleslaw, pork, bit of apple and cheese..

Roast beef, gravy, onion and cheese…

Hmm bit of a cheese thing going on here..

Just cheese alone with bit of pickle or chutney…

Or with sausage, onion, tomato sauce???

 

Ready to fill

Few baby baps there!!

ENJOY, ENJOY, ENJOY!!!

My only quibble with the lovely recipe is it says Britsih baps...

Baps have through out time, always been attributed to the Scots.

HA AH HA..Most Scottish people would lynch the Author for that one....

HA ha ha, bake him in a Haggis!!

Scotland is part of the British Isles but they are SCOTTISH...hence so is their baking:)

Yumminess adapted from recipe from http://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2012/10/traditional-british-baps-recipe.html

Garyd's picture
Garyd

I Need a good recipe for chewy yeasty rolls

I need a recipe for chewy yeasty rolls. Just like the ones we had back in school. 

grind's picture
grind

Classic Croissants by Jeffrey Hamelman

I hope it's cool to post these links - not sure what the etiquette is -

http://www.finecooking.com/recipes/classic-croissants.aspx

Slide show -

http://www.finecooking.com/audioslideshow/104950/index.asp

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