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isand66's picture
isand66

Chocolate Stout Amaranth Yeast Water-Sourdough Combo

My wife bought a bottle of Chocolate Stout about a month ago with the intentions of making some kind of chocolate cake.  This would have been a very good use for this stout, but since she never had a chance to put it to good use I decided it was time to give it a try in a bread.  I recently purchased another new flour which I have since found out is a very old flour called Amaranth.  I decided to combine this with some sprouted wheat flour, KAF European style flour along with a Yeast Water starter and my stock AP starter.  I used some Italian style 00 flour in the Yeast Water build which I built up in 2 stages.  If I made this again I would probably increase the hydration since it is only around 68% and I think the crumb would have been more open with a higher hydration.

Yeast Water Starter Build 1

100 grams Italian Style 00 Flour (KAF)

100 grams Yeast Water Starter

Mix the flour and Yeast Water in a bowl until thoroughly combined.  Cover the bowl and let it sit at room temperature for around 4 hours.  The starter should almost double when ready to proceed to build 2.

Build 2

Add ingredients below to starter from above and mix until incorporated.  Cover with plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature for 4 hours.

100 grams Italian Style 00 Flour

35 grams Yeast Water

Main Dough Ingredients

107 grams Refreshed AP Starter (65% hydration)

318 grams Italian  Yeast Water Starter (all of starter from above)

200 grams Sprouted Whole Wheat Flour or Whole Wheat Flour

150 grams Amaranth Flour

405 grams European Style Flour (KAF) or Bread Flour

161 grams Mashed Potatoes (I like to mash them with the skins on and used red potatoes)

503 grams Chocolate Stout at room temperature

16 grams Raspberry Champagne Vinegar

16 grams Salt (Sea Salt or Table Salt)

Procedure

Mix the starters with the stout but save 50 grams for later (no... don't drink it!) and stir to break it up.  Next mix in the flours into the starter mixture and mix for 2 minutes with your mixer or by hand.    Let the dough autolyse for 20-30 minutes to an hour in your bowl covered with a cloth or plastic wrap.  Next add in the salt, balance of Stout and vinegar and mix on speed #2 for 4 minutes or by hand.  The dough should have come together in a ball and be tacky but not too sticky.

Next take the dough out of the bowl and place it on your work surface.  Do a stretch and fold and rest the dough uncovered for 10 minutes.  After the rest do another stretch and fold and cover the dough and let it rest for 10 minutes.  Do one more stretch and fold and put the dough into a lightly oiled bowl and let it sit at room temperature covered for 2 hours.  After 2 hours you can put the dough into the refrigerator for 24 hours or up to 2 days before baking.  Feel free to do some additional S & F's if you feel it is necessary.

The next day (or when ready to bake) let the dough sit out at room temperature for 1.5 - 2  hours.  Next, form the dough into your desired shape and put them in floured bannetons, bowls or on a baking sheet and let them rise covered for 2 hours or until they pass the poke test.  Score the loaves as desired and prepare your oven for baking with steam.

Set your oven for 500 degrees F. at least 30 minutes before ready to bake.  When ready to bake place the loaves into your on  your oven stone with steam and lower the temperature immediately to 450 degrees.  It should take around 20 - 30 minutes to bake  until both loaves are golden brown and reached an internal temperature of 200 - 210 degrees F.

Let the loaves cool down for at least an hour or so before eating as desired.

 

Balloon Flower

Xenophon's picture
Xenophon

Sourdough rye Vollkornbrot with flaxseed and pinhead oats.

A couple of days ago I decided to try my hand at Jeffrey Hamelman’s Vollkornbrot with flaxseeds.  I did this with some trepidation because

a)     I’m a western expat living in New Delhi, India and THE key ingredient (rye flour) is not available here, meaning that I have to bring it in from Europe on each trip.  This one recipe  would blow about 1/7 th of my precious supply.

b)    The recipe as per Hamelman requires the  use of a sourdough starter, used to create a long fermenting sourdough and two soakers (flaxseeds and rye chops) .  To these are added the last fraction of the rye meal and the salt + some water and yeast so it’s not exactly a straight dough setup with minimal rise time.

The original recipe can be found in ‘Bread’ by Jeffrey Hamelman, I’m not going to reproduce it here for the obvious copyright reasons.

Modifications vs the recipe:

a)     I didn’t have rye chops and there’s no way for me to acquire those here.  So I used pinhead oats (also called steel cut oats) instead.  This worked without a hitch.

b)    One of the big challenges of baking breads here is dough temperature control.  We’re past the peak of summer but still, the temperature in my kitchen is about 35 centgrade.  This is an obvious problem when using ‘long’ rise times/preferments etc.  What it boils down to is that I shortened the sourdough rise time from the recommended 14-16 hours at around 21 centigrade to 9 hours at 33-35.

 

The dough (detailed instructions see the recipe in the book):

For the sourdough I used a sourdough starter that had been initiated 3 months ago, it started out as a rye sourdough starter but has been refreshed countless times with normal bread flour so it’s totally white now.  This is added to 100% rye flour and water.  Hydratation is 100% at this point.

While this is covered and put away to start its long rise, a flaxseed and –in my case- a pinhead oats soaker were prepared.  I added all the recipe’s salt to the oats soaker in order to inhibit enzyme activity (long rise at high ambient temperature).

After 5 hours I could definitely see activity in the sourdough, based on the look/consistency and the taste I decided it was ripe after 9 hours of fermentation.  Tasting/feeling/looking are imho the only sure ways to determine ripeness.  Let it ferment too long and the taste becomes harsh/vinegary.

Everything was brought together with some extra rye flour and mixed at slow speed for 10 minutes.  Bulk fermentation took 15 minutes.

After bulk fermentation I had a very slack, sticky dough that proved almost unmanageable and had a very dense texture.  This was dumped in a large cake tin (no pullman form available) that had been oiled and covered in rye flour.  I used a spoon to flatten the top somewhat.

Baking:

First 15 minutes in a hot oven (245 centigrade)  with steam, followed by 1 hour 15 minutes at 195, dry.   Hamelman remarks that a full bake is imperative and I concur, given the high hydratation and the density.

Unpanning and cooling:

15 minutes before the end of the bake time, the loaf is taken out of the baking tin (very easily, no stick at all) and baked off the remaining 15 minutes to remove some extra moisture and firm things up.

After baking I was stuck with what literally seemed to be a very dense brick.  This then has to cool/rest between 24 and 48 hours so the internal moisture has time to redistribute.  It took an almost superhuman effort but I managed to wait 30 hours.  Don’t give in to temptation, I think the bread really requires this long rest before slicing.

Some pictures: 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rye sourdough with flaxseeds and pinhead oats after unpanning and cooling for 30 hours at room temperature.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As you can see, the crumb is very, very dense and looks underbaked.  However, it looked and tasted exactly like the German whole grain Vollkornbread that’s for sale in (North) Germany.  It can be sliced very thin (4 mm is not a problem at all) with a serrated bread knife and the taste is slightly sweet, nutty with a delicate sourdough tang.  If you really want an extremely pronounced sourdough taste I guess you’d have to let the sourdough ferment a couple of hours more.  The bread goes very well with cured meats, jam, (dark) chocolate spread and cheeses that have a pronounced taste.

 





Big warning: Only try this and the other Vollkornbrot mentioned by Hamelman if you really like very dense German breads like Pumpernickel (the German version, has nothing in common with what's sold as such in the US).  Do not try to make rolls or smaller loaves as the crust is very hard indeed and -in the case of rolls- these would be inedible because this bread can only be enjoyed if you slice it really thin.

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

Herbed Bialy's – Multigrain, Caramelized Onion, Chorizo and 4 Cheeses

After pinching off 100g of this combo; Yeast Water and Joe Ortiz’s Cumin, WW Sourdough starter for the donuts and English muffins this past Sunday, we used the remaining 230g of combo starter to make some semolina, durum atta and white whole wheat based herbed bialy’s that had a filling of home made chorizo, caramelized onions, 4 cheeses; brie, aged cheddar, pepper jack and pecorino cheese. The herbs were basil and cilantro.

What a beauty with the cilantro sprinkled on top.

The previous YW bialy’s we made here:

http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/27712/yeast-water-rye-ww-garlic-chive-onion-cheese-and-chorizo-bialy%E2%80%99s

where we used YW only for the levain, used much lower % of whole grains and only used a small amount of pepper jack cheese with the only herb being a garlic chive in the dough. The best thing about the old bake was the unbelievable open crumb. Everything else about the new bake turned out better than the old one.

Chorizo and onion mix before caramelizing.

This bake built on the previous one without autolyse, but we gussied it up and baked it with Sylvia’s steam this time while making it a totally hand made dough. Because of the steam and50 Flower temperature, the bake took longer than the previous one that was 10 minute long. This one took 5 min of steam and then 10 more minutes to finish.

These bialys were just delicious with a slight SD tang that we hope will develop over the next 24 hours. We continue to be impressed with the JoeOrtizSDstarter and when mixed with the YW created a nice, light, open crumb and a crust that was thin and chewy. The filling was built up from the bottom starting with fresh basil a cube of double creme and a cube of Alpine Lace Swiss, then a tablespoon or so of the chorizo and caramelized onion mix, with 4 cubes of cheese on top (2 cubes of pepper jack, 1 cube of pecorino and a cube of aged, super sharp cheddar.

Before proofing.

The Method

was straight forward. The combo YW SD was built up over (2) 3 hour builds and (1) 2 hour build and then it was refrigerated for 72 hours. But there was no need to refrigerate it other than to fit my scedule

The chorizo and onions were sautéed until caramelized and refrigerated until needed.

Spooned and docked after proofing.

After warming up, the levain was mixed with the dough water to break it up and the salt, flour, dried potato flakes, barley malt, molasses and butter were added to the mix. After combining by hand, the dough was emptied out to a slightly floured surface and kneaded by hand for 5 minutes. It was fully developed and the dough rebounded immediately when two fingers were poked into the dough. The dough was rested for 20 minutes and then 2 sets of 4 S & F’s each were done on 15 minute intervals. The dough was then allowed to ferment for 1 ½ hours until it had nearly doubled.

Sylvia's Steam in the microwave heating up.

The dough was divided into (10) roughly 100g pieces and hand formed into tight balls. These balls were rested for 10 minutes and then formed into little pizza shapes by picking them up and hanging them in the vertical while pressing out the centers.

Mis en place for filling the unspooned and undocked bialys

These were placed on semolina sprinkled parchment paper on un-rimmed baking sheets. The centers were then pressed out again before covering with plastic wrap to proof for another hour. At the 30 minute proofing mark the oven was preheated to 500 F regular bake and Sylvia’s Steam was prepared in the microwave and placed in the bottom of the oven.

Basil and brie first then Alpine Lace went in too on this level but not shown for som reason..

After proofing, the centers of the bialys were then pressed out flat again with a wet spoon and the centers docked with a fork to keep them from puffing in the oven. Some basil leaves were placed in the bottom with a cube of brie and a cube of Alpine Lace Swiss, a tablespoon of chorizo was added and flattened out to fill the well and 2 cubes of pepper jack and 1 cube of each of aged cheddar and pecorino were placed on top.

Chorizo, and 3 more cheeses, pecorino in the middle, flanked by cheddar and pepperjack.

The bialys were placed onto the middle oven rack with the stone one very top rack and steam below. At 2 minutes the temperature was turned down to 450 F regular bake. At 5 minutes the steam was removed and the temperature turned down to 425 F convection this time as the bialys were rotated 180 degrees on the oven rack. At the 10 minute mark the bialys were rotated 180 degree again and at 15 minutes they were done and moved to cooling racks. The fresh chopped cilantro was then sprinkled on top

Before the cilantro went on.

The formula follows the pix’s.

Cut vertical with my daughter apprentice holding before scarfing.  She liked them!

Cut horizontal.  Not as open as the first YW only ones but these tasted so much better.  Will make them again.

SD & YW Semolina, Durrum Atta, WWW Bialy's w/ Caramelized Onion, Chorizo and 4 cheeses     
      
Mixed StarterBuild 1Build 2Build 3Total%
SD Starter2000203.48%
Yeast Water3500357.61%
S. White Wheat21170388.26%
Durum Atta16017337.17%
WWW01717347.39%
Water035357015.22%
Total Starter92696923050.00%
      
Starter     
Hydration100.00%    
Levain % of Total22.14%    
      
Dough Flour %   
Durum Atta10021.74%   
Bread Flour20043.48%   
White WW5010.87%   
Potato Flakes102.17%   
Semolina10021.74%   
Dough Flour460100.00%   
Salt91.96%   
Water26056.52%   
Dough Hydration56.52%    
      
Total Flour575    
Water - 340, YW -35375    
T. Dough Hydration65.22%    
Whole Grain %46.09%    
      
Hydration w/ Adds70.09%    
Total Weight1,039    
      
Add - Ins %   
Barley Malt204.35%   
Molasses204.35%   
Butter408.70%   
Total Add Ins8017.39%   

 

Apprentice takes a nice 105 F bake herself in the backyard oven.  Dumb Doxie !!!

 

 

 

 

markwhiteff's picture
markwhiteff

Crust question

Hello,

I was wondering whether anyone has any ideas about the crust in the picture below

Bread was baked at 440 degrees for about 40 minutes and was abou 205 degrees when pulled out. The crust is actually darker than the picture shows. The crumb is very light. I was happy with the bread, but didn't like the large chunks of cracking that occurred about 10 minutes after i pulled it out of the oven. As you can see the crust is fairly thin. But it is the large cracking that i'd like to fix. Hoping somebody here will have some ideas. Thanks!

mamatkamal's picture
mamatkamal

Chebakia or Chebakiya (Mkharqua-Mkharka-Mkhar9a)/The Classic Moroccan Flower Cookies / Chabakia ou Chabakiya Marocaine!

 Since I was young I've always been intrigued by these sesame/honey cookies, called in Morocco "Chebakia", not only for their beautiful flower shape but also because they are surprisingly delicious sweet treats and I love all the flavours in them!  Chebakia is one of the luxurious, tasteful, traditional and special occasion sweet, served without fail on Moroccan Ramadan table with Harira on Ftour (Iftar) meal.  However; in some regions in Morocco, chebakia is also served at wedding ceremonies and other special feasts.  Traditionally, few days before Ramadan, the whole family usually gets together to make large numbers of these cookies, which are customarily shaped like a rose, symbolizing "Respect and Love".  

Because of chebakia popularity and its cultural significance in Morocco, this has made these sesame/honey cookies synonymous with Ramadan. In fact, no Moroccan Ramadan is complete without chebakia, which can be bought almost anywhere in the street.  My Mother taught me how to make chabakiya when I was a kid, and I remember she used to talk about how tricky making those cookies were, and how her chebakia  would never taste like her mother's even if she used to make the best chabakiya I've ever tasted!  So last weekend, I decided to make those little cookies, and they brought me back as little kid again. They made me think of my mother and where I come from.  When I prepare chebakia, I always have those wonderful memories, and so will my lovely boys, one day! 

Chabakiya or Chbakia [S H A B A K E E Y A}  = الشّباكيّة, (also spelled Chebbakiya and Shebakia) is a general term for Moroccan traditional sweet sort of fried flower dessert, and which was originally considered as a confectionery Halwa [H A L W A} =حْلْوَة, which means "Cake" because of its sweet taste and flower crispy biscuit shape. It will sound odd for some of my blog followers; "A fried cookie? Come on, really?". Yes, indeed, it is a fried, chewy and sticky cookie that, strangely enough, goes so well with HariraBUT NOT tea or coffee! The sweetness of Chabakiya is intended to offset the sour yet soft, touch of the national soup, called Harira. Give me one chebakia and a bowl of Harira any day, any time and I’d be a happy woman! . 

Chabakiya is made with ingredients, very common in Moroccan Cuisine, such as sesame seeds, almonds, aniseeds, cinnamon, gum arabic, orange flower water, honey, yeast etc.... The dough is made by kneading wheat or white flour or mixture of both, with all the ingredients and mixed together, then flattened and cut into squares using a special Chebakia mold to cut the dough, then fried in oil and submerged in sweet honey syrup (usually orange flower water flavoured).   The result is a declicious, sticky, sweet and slightly chewy cookie  that looks like flower almost, and that tastes a little bit like a spicy, crispy, savory Fekkas, and a little bit like a hot glazed, sweet Almond/Honey Breewat. Both the flavour combination and the texture of chabakiya is amazing! 

Chabakiya is a little time-consuming but well worth the effort. It's also endlessly adaptable, substitute more modern ingredients for different flavours, use corn or ginger or orange syrup instead of honey, so chabakiya is more sticky and shiny. If you don't like sesame seeds or almonds,  replace them  for hazelnuts or pine nuts or peanuts or pistachio or linseeds etc....  which will change the flavour quite a bit, but they will taste great!  Don’t be intimidated by shaping technique of chabakiya, it is quite easy to make, and in fact you can create any shape you like! When making chabakiya, make sure not to overwork the dough (generally, 7 to 10 minutes seems reasonable).  This detail is very important, since gluten development, resulting from overworking the Chabakia dough, will make it tough when cooked. It is also important to maintain the temperature of the frying oil because if the temperature is too high or if you overcook them, chabakiya will be too hard and if the temperature is too low, or you undercook them, the resulting chabakiya will be too pale, very greasy and unappealing.  Note that chebakia will continue to colour slightly a few minutes after removed from the oil, so you will need to be careful when removing them. 

N.B.:

1-In Fes and some other regions as Rabat, Salé etc.., this same chabakiya is called Mkhar9a (also spelled Mkharqua or Mkharka = المْخَرْقَة ).

2-Whereas in Wajda (Oujda - East of Morocco) and also some parts in Fes, it is called Griwech or Griwesh or Griwchat =كريوْشْ 

3-In Agadir (South of Morocco), they have a special version of Chabakiya, called Bouchnikha = بوشْنيخَة ou Chebakiya Khyout (5yout) = الشّْبّاكيّة خْيُوطْ .

Below shows the photo of Bouchnikha, Agadir's version of Chabakia, by  Meriya (CLICK HERE FOR MERIYA'S BLOG)

4-There are several different shapes of chabakiya, the most popular one is Chabakiya Blighat or Baboush = الشّْبّاكِيّة بْليغاتْ, which has the shape of the hand-made leather shoes called in Morocco Babouche =  بَبُوشْ or Balgha (Balra) = بْلْغَة.

Below shows the photo of Chebakiya Blighat by Meriya (CLICK HERE FOR MERIYA'S BLOG)

5-There is a different type of Chebakia called " "Halwa Mja3ba" = الحلوة المجعبة. This is a very popular traditional type of Chebakia, and curiously enough, it is prepared by men only.  The dough needs very slow rising time for 17 to 24 hours, and requires a lot of practice and patience to achieve success. There is a video here by Moroccan Chef Cook Choumicha which shows how to make Halwa Mja3ba. I took the picture below of "Halwa Mja3ba" from this Cuisine Site!

I'm submitting this post to Susan's Yeastspottinga blog devoted to yeast bread.  Please check it out!

  Rosebud Chebakia / Chebakia sous forme de rose:

 

 

Ingredients for Chebakia dough : / Ingredients pour la pâte de Chabbakia:

-1 kg flour (I used strong white bread flour), sifted / 1 kg de farine tamisée (J'ai mis la farine forte blanche, je crois c'est ce qu'ils appellent en France "Farine T55", mais je ne suis pas certaine)

-200 gr brown sesame seeds / 200 gr de graines de sésame brunes

-2 tablespoons anise seeds / 2 c à soupe de graines d'anis

-2 cloves / 2 clous de girofle

-1/2 teaspoon salt / 1/2 c à thé ou à café de sel

-2 tablespoons ground cinnamon / 2 c à soupe de cannelle moulu

-200 gr blanched almonds / 200 gr d'amandes blanchies

 -60 ml white vinegar / 60 ml de vinaigre blanc

 -1/2 teaspoon saffron threads  / 1/2 c à thé ou à café de pistils de safran 

 -Few small grains of gum arabic / Quelques graines de gomme arabique 

-100 ml pure olive oil / 100 ml d'huile d'olive de bonne qualité

-1 egg / 1 oeuf

-1 egg white / 1 blanc d'oeuf

-100 ml melted butter / 100 ml de beurre fondu

-180 ml orange blossom water (use good quality) / 180 ml d'eau de fleur d'oranger de bonne qualité

-You will need about 60 ml warm water, depending on your flour quality.  Add more if you need to./ Vous aurez besoin d'environ 60 ml d'eau tiède. Il faut prendre en considération la qualité de votre farine, ajouter plus d'eau si nécessaire.

N.B. If necessary, use this water to dilute the yeast with pinch of sugar, cover and allow to rest for a few minutes. / Si  nécessaire, utiliser cette eau pour diluer la levure avec un tout petit peu de sucre, puis couvrir et laisser reposer quelques minutes.

-1 teaspoon baking powder (About 5 ml) / 1 c à thé ou à café (Environ 5 ml) de levure chimique ou patissière ou la poudre à pâte

-1/2 teaspoon (About 2.5 ml) yeast / 1/2 c à thé ou à café (Environ 2.5 ml) de levure boulangère

N.B. : I used instant dry yeast, but you might use fresh or active dry yeast as well.  /  J'ai mis la levure instantanée mais vous pouvez aussi utiliser d'autres types de levure soit fraîche ou sèche active.

 

 Sweet Honey Syrup: / Mélange de Miel :

-1.5 kg best-quality honey / 1.5 kg de miel de bonne qualité 

-2 tablespoons orange flower water / d'eau de fleur d'oranger

-Pinch of gum arabic / Une pincée de gomme arabique

-1 cinnamon stick / 1 bâton de cannelle


 For Frying Chebakia : / Faire frire le Chebakia:

-1.5 liters vegetable oil / 1.5 litres de l'huile végétale

  

Other/Autre Ingredient:

-About 100 gr golden sesame seeds, toasted, for decorating / Environ 100 gr de graines de sésame brunes pour la touche finale

  

Prepare the Chebakia dough: / Préparer la pâte de Chabbakia:

1-You have to plan ahead on this recipe, to get the sesame seeds, washed, dried and available.  Wash out the dirt and mud. Drain the seeds and let them dry in the sun, placing them on a large baking pan. This will take 1 to 2 days to dry them.  When dry, remove any small stones from brown natural sesame seeds. / Préparer les graines de sésame avant de commencer la préparation de Sellou.  Laver les graines de sésames et laisser sécher  naturellement au soleil, ceci peut prendre 1 jusqu'à 2 jours.  Puis enlever les mauvaises graines et faire attention si jamais il y a des petites pierres noires.

2-Toast sesame seeds in a small pan over medium heat until lightly browned, stirring or shaking the pan constantly.  Allow to cool. /Faire dorer les graines de sésame à la poêle en remuant sans arrêt. Laisser refroidir.

3-Grind sesame seeds into fine powder. / Faire moudre les graines de sesame au moulin jusqu'à obtention d'une poudre bine fine.

4-Toast the blanched almonds either in the oven or in a heavy, ungreased skillet or pan until golden, stirring every few minutes otherwise they will burn. / Dans une poêle ou au four, faire revenir les amandes blanchies qu'on brasse fréquemment jusqu'à coloration.

5-Grind almonds into fine powder. / Faire moudre les amandes au moulin jusqu'à obtention d'une poudre bine fine.

6-In a large bowl, place ground sesame and almond with the flour and all other dry ingredients, then add the remaining ingredients and mix well to form a stiff dough.  Knead the dough with hands for about 10 minutes. / Dans un grand bol, mélanger les graines de sésame et amandes moulues, puis ajouter tous les ingrédients secs, bien mélanger le tout, ensuite ajouter le reste d'ingrédients en formant une pâte assez ferme. Surtout la pâte ne doit être collante.  Pétrir à la main pendant 10 minutes environ.

7-Cover the dough with a towel or plastic wrap to let it rest for about 30 minutes./Couvrir avec un film alimentaire ou un torchon propre puis laisser reposer pendant environ 30 minutes.

8-Divide the dough into 6 equal parts and wrap each dough ball separately in plastic wrap./ Couper la pâte en 6 boules égales et couvrir chaque boule avec un film alimentaire. 

Shaping Chebakia : / Façonnage de Chabbakiya:

1-You don't need to flour your work surface to roll out the dough. Using a rolling pin, roll out each part into a very thin rectangle. / Au rouleau pâtisserie, étaler chaque boule en un grand rectangle très mince.  Pas besoin de fariner le plan de travail car si la pâte est bien faite, elle n'est pas supposée de coller.

 2-Use Chebakia cutter to form squares, which should have five (5) strips each. / Avec un emporte pièce de chabbakiya, couper des carrés qui doivent avoir cinq (5) lanières chacun.

 

  3-But, if you don't have a special mold for Chebakia, simply cut the the thin dough into small squares, measuring about 8 cm on all sides. Then using pastry wheel with fluted edge, make four (4) evenly spaced cuts lengthwise in each square, but not cutting through to the edges of the square. / Mais, si vous n'avez pas un emporte pièce de chabbakiya, utiliser tout simplement une roulette dentelée, puis couper des petits carrés dont les côtés mesurent environ 8 cm, puis faire 4 longues incisions parallèles à l'intérieur de chaque carré, mais sans arriver jusqu'au bord. 

 4-Now you will have little squares with five (5) strips each. / Vous aurez des petits carrés, ayant cinq (5) lanières chacun. 

5-This is Nassim's technique to fold Chebakia, very easy and clever! He inserts a straw into the square, making sure that the strips number: 1, 3 and 5 are on top of the straw, whereas strips number: 2 and 4 are under the straw. /  Ici, je vous montre une technique de mon fils Nassim, mon petit chou de 9 ans, pour façonner le Chebakia que je trouve toute simple mais efficace et bien pensée. Il insère une paille à l'interieur du carré, en veillant à ce que les lanières numéro: 1, 3 et 5 soient au-dessus de la paille, tandis que les lanières numéro: 2 et 4 soient sous la paille.

 6-He takes the straw and allows the strips of dough to slide down. He removes the straw, then, using his little fingers, turns the dough inside out. / Il prend la paille vers le haut, en laissant glisser les lanières sur un plan de travail, puis il retire la paille.  Ensuite, il travaille avec ses petits doigts pour faire sortir la fleur vert le haut.

 7-Then, he gently pinches both the opposite corners to seal the flower Chebakia, and that's it! / Puis, délicatement il attache les 2 coins ensemble pour bien sceller la rose, et c'est tout!

 8-Repeat the process with the remaining squares and the covered dough. /  Faire pareil avec le reste de carrés et la pâte recouverte du film alimentaire.

N.B. As you can see the shaping of Chebakia is not the same on the photo below, it's normal, since some were made by my lovely boys, some by my husband and others by our friend and myself.  But they all look beautiful. /Comme vous pouvez remarquer le façonnage sur la photo ci-dessous, est différent, puisque quelques uns ont été faits par mes adorables enfants, les autres par mon mari, notre amie, et moi-même, mais l'important qu'ils sont tous beaux!

And here are some well-detailed photos how to shape Chebakia by the food writer Christine-Amina Benlafquih CLICK HERE / Voici aussi des photos comment façonner Chebakiya Marocaine, et que je trouve vraiment bien faites par Christine-Amina Benlafquihl'experte américaine en cuisine Marocaine, CLIQUEZ ICI

 

Prepare the honey syrup : Préparer le  sirop au miel:

-Heat the honey for a few minutes, it should be warm but not bubbling. Then add  to honey the orange flower water, gum arabic and cinnamon stick and turn off the heat. / Chauffer le miel pendant quelques minutes, attention ne laisser pas bouillir.  Puis ajouter l'eau de fleur d'oranger, gomme pilées et cannelle et mélanger le miel.  Retirer du feu.

 Cooking Chebakia / Faire cuire Chabbakiya:

1-In a deep fryer or large pot, heat vegetable oil over moderate heat. / Sur un feu moyen, faire chauffer l'huile dans une poêle à frire ou autres. 

N.B . Before starting to fry Chebakia, test the temperature by dropping a small piece of carrot into the oil; if it floats and quickly starts to brown, then you can start frying.  It is very important to make sure the oil is hot enough before frying because if the temperature is too low, the resulting product is very greasy and unappealing. To keep the oil temperature constant while frying, fry only a few Chebakia at a time. / Avant de commencer à faire frire le Chebakia, vérifier la température de l’huile de friture, en jetant dans l'huile un morceau de carotte, et s’il dore et remonte à la surface, alors vous avez le feu vert pour commencer.  Surtout n'essayez pas d'aller plus vite en mettant trop de Chabakiya en même temps dans la poêle à frire car si il y en a trop, ils vont abaisser la température de friture, ainsi vos Chabbakias absorberont beaucoup de gras et goûteront l'huile.

2-When the oil is hot, then reduce a little bit the heat, and add Chebakia, only a few at a time, and fry for 4 to 5 minutes, on both sides or until brown. Add more cold oil, if necessary, and allow a couple of minutes to return to perfect frying temperature, then continue cooking Chebakia. / Dés que l'huile est bien chaude, baisser immédiatement un peu la température.  Faire frire seulement quelques Chebakia à  la fois pour 4 à 5 minutes de chaque côté ou jusqu'à ce qu'elles soient bien dorées et gonflées.  Ajouter plus d'huile froide si nécessaire et attendre quelques minutes jusqu'à que l'huile se réchauffe et continuer à cuire le reste des Chabbakiyas de la même façon.

 Soaking the Chebakia in Honey Mixture: / Faire tremper Chebakia dans le mélange du miel:

 1-Drain and put Chebakia in the hot honey, then gently push down to submerge them in the honey. Allow to soak for 10 to 15 minutes./ Bien les égoutter, puis plonger-les dans le miel chaud, sans les entasser. Laisser le Chebakia trempée dans le miel  de 10 à 15 minutes.

 2-Remove the chebakia from the honey and sprinkle slightly with toasted sesame seeds or with almonds, coarsely chopped and toasted. Serve with Harira, Enjoy and Happy Ramadan! / Retirer et égoutter. Saupoudrer Chebakiya de graines de sésames grillées ou amandes grillées et hachées grossièrement. Servir avec du Harira et Bssaha w Raha et Mabrouk 3likom Ramdan!

How to shape Rosebud Chebakia / Façonnage de Chebakia sous forme de rose:

 1-Using a rolling pin, flatten the Chabakia dough into a very thin circle. Use the circular cookie cutter or a small glass or others to cut smaller circles out on the large circle. / Utiliser un rouleau à pâtisserie, puis aplatir une boule de pâte de Chabbakia sous forme d'un cerle très mince, ensuite couper des petites rondelles avec un emporte-pièce rond.

 2-Arrange the six (6) small circles, half stacking on top of each other. With your fingers, press the edges of the circles to make them thiner./ Placer les six (6) petits cercles en rang sur une seule ligne, de telle sorte que chaque cercle doit cacher la moitié du cercle à côté. Aplatir un peu les bords des cercles avec vos doigts.

3-Place the stuffing on top of the second circle (Roasted or fried almond or almond paste or date paste  or fig paste etc...). / Placer votre farce sur le deuxième cercle (qui peut être soit amandes roties ou  pâte de dattes ou d'amandes ou de figues etc... )

4-Start rolling from the first circle, the one near the stuffing. / Commencer à rouler à partir du premier cercle, celui qui est près de la farce.

 

 5-Press the dough gently in the centre to help open the rose./ Délicatment, appuyer sur le milieu de la pâte pour faire ouvrir la rose.

6-To open the rose, you must force the bud open by a straw or your fingers or other tools, continue pressing the petals to separate them from the bud, and until all the petals are open and full. Don't be overly gentle during this process!/ Utilisez une paile ou vos doigts ou autres outils pour ouvrir les pétales de la rose et les separer du coeur. N'accordez pas beaucoup d'importance aux petits details.

 

  

jarkkolaine's picture
jarkkolaine

Black Tea Yeast Water

Before I saw this beautiful yeast water bread by  isand66, I had never heard about yeast water. Or if I had, I had completely ignored the topic, so new it felt to me at that time.

But when I started looking into the topic, I found that The Fresh Loaf is full of people making lovely loaves of bread with this method. And I wanted to join them.

So, after an evening of reading about YW, about a week ago, I mixed a big table spoon of black tea with a cup of water and a table spoon of honey and left to rest on my kitchen table.

For the next week, I shaked the mixture a couple of times a day and watched it ferment. I couldn't stop checking on the jar and smelling it to see if something was already happening!

In two days or so, the water started bubbling and after a few days more, it smelled like the Finnish May first drink, Sima. I suppose that would have been the perfect time to try the water, but as I was travelling (the yeast water travelled with me, naturally), so I didn't get a chance to try to bake with it until yesterday. 

Here's what the yeast water looked like just before I used it:

I was worried that the YW might be overripe, but the results were very good (for a first try, at least!). Here's the formula.

Starter:

  • 100 g Yeast water
  • 100 g White wheat flour

The starter was left to room temperature for about 24 hours. It was bubbling already at 12 hours, but I felt it could use some more time (and I was busy...), so I left it to ferment a bit longer.

In the morning of the bake day:

  • All of the starter above (200g)
  • 200 g Water
  • 200 g White wheat flour

Again, I left the mixture on my kitchen table and went out for the day. When we came back about six hours later, the dough looked ripe and full of life (lots of bubbles and about doubled in size), so I decided it was time to mix the dough. 

I aimed for a 75% hydration, and a quick calculation (in my head) gave me the following numbers:

  • All of the starter from previous step (600 grams, at 100% hydration)
  • 700 g flour (out of which 100 g was fine spelt flour and the rest was bread flour from Vääksyn mylly, a smallish mill near Lahti)
  • 450 g water
  • 20 g salt 

I kneaded the dough for about 10 minutes and then added the salt just before finishing the kneading.

After two hours, I shaped the dough into two round loaves and left the rise for about two more hours. When I came back, I was surprised to see that the loaves had risen very fast, so I refrigirated them until the oven was ready and then baked in my cast iron pan (covered with a clay pot for half of the baking time).

Here's what came out of the oven:

 

 

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

What To Eat With That Rustic French Country Sourdough Bread -Smoked Etouffee!

When I was in architectural school so long ago, way before 4 legged apprentices were allowed in the kitchen, one of my best friends, a fine designer, was of Creole decent from New Orleans - the heart of Creole Country.  Cajuns weren't well thought of in New Orleans and scarcely seen then.  His wife was and still is a Cajun from the bayou country around Lafayette - the heart of Cajun Country where Creoles were shunned and hard to find.  It’s not that they hated each other, after all they were both French based to the core, but it was a bit like thick oil and thin vinegar trying to make an emulsion without any duck fat.

Uncooked veggies and chorizo just added to the not very much roux.

Creoles were the upper crust of the French in Louisiana, the New Orleans Upper Crust merchants and the plantation owners who tried to emulate the aristocracy of France.  You can think of them as the perfectly scored ‘Paris Baguette French’ even though their blood was steeped in native American and to a greater extent the Blacks from Africa.

Smoked chicken and 2 smoked sausages - one pork, one chicken.

Cajuns on the other hand were also of French decent and mingled with native Americans more and Africans less but they also immigrated from Nova Scotia to LA instead of from France like the Creoles.  They were more rustic and country than their Creole cousins and weren't into imitating any kind of French aristocracy.  You can think of them as ‘Rustic Country French Sourdough Boules’.  The two things they could agree on was that they hated the English; with the Creoles and the Cajuns coming together to defeat the British in NO ending the war of 1812 after it had already ended on paper several week before and they liked the same kind of foods.  Even if they argued mightily over their slightly different preparation and ingredients of the same dishes it was still all gumbo in the end. 

The dark roasted chicken stock.

The Africans brought the spice, peppers and tomato to the Creoles and the Native Americans brought the crayfish to the Cajuns.  Both had that French sauce; roux, in their veins.   They say that the closer you get to NO the less tomato you will see.  This is totally incorrect.  Cajuns shun tomatoes and they weren't from anywhere around NO – the Creole heart where tomatoes are fine in just about anything.  You can always tell a Creole from a Cajun by noticing if they put tomatoes in the same dishes or not – because they make pretty much the same dishes otherwise - except for the little difference in the addition of file.  File as a spice is also Creole.  With Cajuns, file is totally optional and not required.  Cajuns also tend to put less onion, celery and green peppers in their dishes too.  Cajuns like 1 part onion, 1/2 part green pepper and 1/4 part celery.  Creoles want up to a full part of each.

Stock and beer hit the veggies and the roux.  

Needless to say, my married friends from LA were like night and day when it came to cooking authentic Creole and Cajun food from NO or the Bayous.  They both made every kind of sausage, gumbo, jambalaya, etouffee, French breads and other food treats linked directly to the French in LA be they Creole or Cajun.  Both sides claim to have invented and perfected these fine dishes but, in reality, they worked together to make these dishes world famous and world class.   All of these foods have many variations depending on who makes it and who they learned from and with mixed Creole and Cajun marriages…… anything is possible!

Meat hits the pan- it's nearly time to eat.

It was so much fun cooking with my LA friends because they would always argue over how much of what to put in or not to put in every delicious meal - what ever it was.  Both were equally fine cooks – just different.  What ever we cooked always had a 6 pack of beer consumed as we waited for the low and slow roux commonality to get that deep brick red.  Another 6 pack went down with the meal.

Served over white rice.

Etouffee is usually crayfish or shrimp, when mud bugs aren't available.  The bugs give Cajun’s their main claim to authenticity especially when made with a nice mud bug or shrimp stock - depending.  This etouffee version is smoked chicken, smoked; chicken and pork sausage.   It’s  based on a great smoked shrimp and sausage gumbo I had in KC a couple of weeks ago at one of the many BBQ joints KC is known for.

After dinner bike ride rudely interrupted by a pesky sunset.

The Brownman portion of this recipe is the Mexican; amber beer and spicy chorizo added with the veggies.   The recipe might at first seem to lean toward Cajun since no tomato is ever allowed – too sour.  Too much tomato will spoil any sofrito too.   But the file, spices, peppers and ratio of veggies is pure Creole through and through.   The Mexican influence is unmistakable too.  Us 3, the old friends and cooks, are all represented in this fine etouffee that I’m sure each of us would be proud to call our own.   But I’m certain, both of them would want to change it to better suit their Cajun or Creole tastes.  So, it is not theirs – it’s all mine.

The sunset got better a few minutes later.

I prefer it served over large French Rustic Country SD croutons just to make it more Cajun and even the Creole tilting playing field.  But this time it was served over the traditional rice.     Call it bad planning or possibly fear of too much French :-)

In tribute to the previous nights orange sunset, an orange breakfast of Stan Ginsberg's Bagels, Minneola Medium Caramelized  Marmalade and Cantaloupe.  A magnificent 24 hours of nostalgia, etouffee,  orange; sunsets and breakfasts the Cajun, Creole and Brownman way.  Wish you guys were here to enjoy it with me as I enjoyed our cooking together so long ago. 

I'm such a doofus for forgetting to post the recipe.  Where is that apprentice when you need her?

Smoked Chicken Sausage Etouffee

Ingredients

 1 pound smoked boneless chicken – your choice - we use thighs

½ pound each of smoked pork and chicken sausage

¼ pound chorizo

1 C water

2 C dark roasted chicken stock

1/8 cup grape seed oil + 1/8 C Butter for the Roux Or all oil if you want

2/3 cup flour

1 small onion - diced

2 stalks celery – diced

1 small green bell pepper – diced

1 amber beer - or less if you taste test to make sure it isn’t spoiled –Bohemia preferred

2 bay leaves

2 T Worcestershire sauce

2 T Creole seasoning – equal parts; salt, pepper, onion powder, garlic powder, dried oregano, dried thyme, smoked paprika, paprika, cayenne pepper - 1 T each for the roux and veggies.

2 T Creole seasoning for the chicken and sausages before smoking

½ tsp of Gumbo file - some say it is optional but it isn’t around here.

Tabasco sauce for individual serving heat if the Creole seasoning isn’t hot enough for you or others.

Salt and pepper to taste.

Serve over white rice with some buttered French SD bread to sop up anything left in your bowl.  We sometimes just make huge French SD croutons and serve the etouffee over them instead of rice – great for folks who don’t like rice but love SD..

Make the chicken stock ahead of time.  Etouffee deserves the very best stock.

Smoke the chicken, sausage and chicken sausage with the Creole seasoning . 

Heat oil and butter in large skillet until it is hot but not quite smoking.  Add the flou and 1 T of the Creole seasoning, turn down the heat to low and cook the roux while constantly stirring until a dark peanut butter color is achieved.  This is called a blond roux even though it will be a brick red and may take 20 minutes or more.  Add the vegetables, the chorizo and 1 T Creole seasoning and cook while constantly stirring for about 6-8 minutes until the vegetables soften and the roux gets darker.  Make sure not to burn anything.

Turn heat up to medium.  Add the beer and chicken stock, Worcestershire sauce and bay leaves. Cook while stirring until the mixture boils and thickens to correct consistency10-15 minutes.  Etouffee is a thicker sauce than Gumbo.   Add in the smoked meats and cook for about 2-3 minutes until the meat is just heated through.  The chicken should be chopped into ½" cubes and the sausages cut into ¼" thick coins. Have Tabasco ready for those who want more heat.   Serve over plain white rice or some kind of rustic French SD croutons Which is my preference.  For a more smoked flavor you can smoke the finished etouffee in the smoker too.

 If 3 Cajuns or Creoles are making etouffee you need about 12 additional beers while making it in order for them to have a good time and learn to get along while working hard on that roux that takes patience and low heat.

hanseata's picture
hanseata

Multigrain Pitas - The Tasty Pocket

The owner of A&B Naturals, the store that sells my bread, asked me one day: "Can you bake pitas, too?" I had never made them, so I said with conviction: "Yes!"

At least I knew where I could find a pita recipe!

In "Whole Grain Breads", one of my favorite baking books, Peter Reinhart has a recipe for whole wheat pitas - just the right thing for my grain loving customers.

I started my first pita dough. No big deal, until I got to the shaping part. The pitas had to be rolled out no thinner than 1/4 inch (6 mm), and to an 8-inch (20 cm) diameter. But my pitas already reached this thickness at 6 1/2 to 7 inches (16 to 18 cm.)

Pitas are shaped in three steps, first into rolls, then rolled out to 4"/10 cm. Don't skimp on the flouring!

Below: rolling out pitas to a larger round (6 1/2 - 7" or 16 - 18 cm.) Re-flour them, if necessary.

A high oven temperature is key to a pita's proper horizontal separation into two layers. This high temperature has to be maintained during the whole bake, from below as well as from above.

Many cheaper ovens don't heat up to the necessary 550ºF (280ºC.) Without that boost pitas can't produce the large gas bubble that creates a pocket. And without a pocket - no delicious filling!

A baking stone, or a rack lined with unglazed terracotta tiles (like I have), works best for keeping the  temperature stable, even when the oven door has to be opened several time during the baking process. And very hot stones make the best baking surface for pitas, too.

To reheat fast enough after each opening of the door I remembered Peter Reinhart's advice for baking pizza ("American Pie"), where the problem is the same: intermittently switching the oven to broil for a short time.

How many pitas can you bake at the same time? One batch of dough makes 8 (or 6, if you want larger ones.) Peter Reinhart says one at a time, but, of course, being a semi-professional I wanted to do it a little less time consuming.

After some trials, I found that I can put two at the same time in the oven. That's the maximum, with more it becomes very difficult to load and unload them without damage, and to keep control over their baking process.

2 pitas can be baked at the same time. Once out of the oven, they deflate quickly.

Of course, it takes a little bit of experience to slide the pitas into the oven without them folding over in one place, and to extricate them without nicking them with the peel.

But it's not rocket science, a smart child can do it:

  Josh, our carpenter's son, thought it was much more fun to help with my baking than reading his book!

Though Peter Reinhart's original 100% whole wheat pita is very good, I made a few changes to it. I substitute a 7-grain mix for some of the whole wheat flour, and add an overnight bulk rise in the fridge, this is more practical for my baking schedule, and, in my opinion, improves the taste even more. It also has the advantage that I can reduce the yeast amount by 2 grams.

Though I usually cut down on the sweetener in Peter Reinhart's recipes, this whole grain bread needs the full dose.

We like our pita filled with grilled Halloumi cheese, tomato and lettuce - the way we had it in Girne/Kyrenia on Cyprus. And how do my customers at A&B Naturals like them? They fly off the shelf so that I have to bake them every week!

Here is a link to the recipe in my blog "Brot & Bread".

isand66's picture
isand66

Mocha Multi-Grain Sourdough

Chocolate flavored coffee.....what could be wrong with using some in a bread you ask?  Nothing of course, so why not use it in a soaker as well ?  That is exactly what I ended up doing.  I normally leave the grains soaking for about 30 minutes to an hour, but in this case I left it over night for around 24 hours and the soaker grains sucked up all the coffee.  When I mixed the final dough I decided to make this a very moist, high hydration dough so I didn't cut back on the additional coffee used and the end result as you will see was the most moist bread I've made to date that almost melts in your mouth.

I used some rolled oats, cracked wheat and malted rye berries for the soaker and for the final dough I used durum, dark rye, white rye, European style flours and some roasted wheat germ.  I added some barbecued potatoes and pistachio oil as well.

In order to make the soaker I used 285 grams of hot water and mixed it with the ingredients and let sit at room temperature for 24 hours.

For the starter, I refreshed my standard AP 65% hydration white starter the night before and used most of it in this bake.

Soaker

100 grams Rolled Oats

100 grams Cracked Wheat

50 grams Malted Rye Berries

285 grams Hot Mocha Coffee

Mix coffee in a bowl with other ingredients and let sit covered at room temperature for 24 hours.

Starter

71 grams Seed (Mine is 65% AP Flour Starter)

227 grams AP Flour

151 grams Water (85 - 90 degrees F.)

Mix seed with water to break up for a few seconds and then mix in flour until the starter form a smooth dough consistency.  Put it in a lightly oiled bowl and loosely cover and leave at room temperature for at least 10 hours.  The starter should double in volume.  Put the starter in the refrigerator for up to 1-2 days or use it immediately.

Main Dough

Ingredients

425 grams Starter from above (all of the starter)

100 grams Durum Semolina Flour (KAF)

100 grams White Rye Flour

100 grams Pumpernickel Flour or Dark Rye Flour

150 grams European Style Flour (KAF)  (Sub Bread Flour if you don't have this)

50 grams Roasted Wheat Germ

370 grams Mocha Coffee (90 degrees F.)

14 grams Sea Salt (or table salt)

209 grams Mashed Roasted Potatoes

10 grams Pistachio Oil (substitute any oil desired)

Procedure

I mixed  the flours together with all the coffee except for 50 grams and let them autolyes for 30 minutes.    I then added the levain, potatoes, oil and the soaker and the rest of the coffee with the salt and mixed on speed #1 for 1 minute and #2 for 4 minutes.  I then did a stretch and fold, rested the dough uncovered for 10 minutes.  I then did another stretch and fold, covered the dough and let it rest for 10 minutes.  I did one more stretch and fold and put it in a lightly oiled bowl for 2 hours.  I then put it in the fridge overnight.

The next day I let the dough sit out at room temperature for 1.5 hours.  After 1.5 hours I formed it into loaves and put them in floured bannetons and let them rise covered for 2 hours.

Score the loaves as desired and prepare your oven for baking with steam.

I then baked on my oven stone with steam at 450 degrees until both loaves were golden brown and reached an internal temperature of 200 - 210 degrees F.

I had to bake this bread for almost 50 minutes since it was so moist and the final dough came out with an excellent crust and moist crumb.

Please visit my other blog for my older posts at www.mookielovesbread.wordpress.com.

Crumb Close-up
Janetcook's picture
Janetcook

Baking Stone Alternatives???

I am currently baking in my garage using a counter top oven that is too small to hold a 'conventional' store bought baking stone.

I have read many threads here where people recommend using un-glazed quarry tiles for baking stones due to the affordability of them and that they can be used in just about any size of oven.

I have gone to both Home Depot and Lowes in search of them and the only things that come close are marble and travertine.  Everything else is either ceramic or glazed tile.

Can travertine be used as a baking stone? Does it fall under the category of a quarry tile?  (I am not sure what the exact definition of quarry tile is other than material that is excavated out of a quarry......)  It is used extensively in building large objects :-) but I can't find anything that states that it will hold up to baking at high temps. without breaking.  

Any suggestions are appreciated!

Janet

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