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JoeVa's picture
JoeVa

Eugenio Pol - Micca di Montagna review and comparison

Da un pò di tempo volevo provare il pane di Eugenio Pol di cui ho più volte sentito parlare bene: usa farine biologiche macinate a pietra (Molino Sobrino), acqua di montagna, lievito madre ... chimico di studi, lascia Milano per la montagna.

It's a while I want to try the bread baked by Eugenio Pol, a baker I had some good feedback around: he uses organic stone grounded flour (Molino Sobrino), mountain water, sourdough ... he studied chemistry, he left Milano for the mountain.

Dato che non si trova troppo distante (circa 120km) avevo anche programmato di andare a vedere sul posto, Eugenio vive e lavora a Fobello (Valsesia) ed il suo laboratorio si chiama Vulaiga (http://www.fobello.com/public/vulaiga.htm). Avevo lasciato un messaggio in segreteria ... ma non ho ricevuto risposta. Quindi per non fare un viaggio a vuoto ho cercato qualcuno a Milano che importa il suo pane. L'ho trovato.

Since he is not so far (about 120km) I planned a trip to get a look in place, Eugenio lives and works in Fobello (Valsesia) and his lab is named Vulaiga (http://www.fobello.com/public/vulaiga.htm). I left a message to the answering machine ... but I didn't receive a reply. So, to avoid a trip with no assurance to get the bread, I searched for someone that import Eugenio's bread in Milano. I found him.

Tempo una settimana ed il mio ordine è arrivato. Ho preso la bici e sono andato a ritirare la mia pagnotta. Ho scelto la micca più "semplice" e vicina ai mie gusti, la miglior base da sottoporre ad analisi: la Micca di Montagna. Caricata la pagnotta (da 2 kg) nel mio zaino questo è quanto ho portato a casa:

In a week my order arrived. I ride my bike and I went to take my miche. I chose the "simplest" miche close to my taste, a good base for a tasting test: Mountain Miche. With the miche in my bag (2kg) this is what I brought back home:

Mountain Miche - Ingredients: type"2" wheat flour, type"2" farro flour, type"2" monococcum wheat flour (all stone grounded), extra vergin olive oil, pure water, sea salt, no added yeast, fermented only with mother dough.

Ecco le mie (strettamente personali) osservazioni, i gusti sono soggettivi. La micca aveva almeno un giorno, la crosta aveva perso la croccantezza, ma ciò non importa. La mollica morbida, ma poco umida e troppo "panosa", senza elasticità residua  setosità e lucentezza, alveoli piccoli ben distribuiti, colore tipico con una leggera tonalità grigia. L'aroma in linea con la media dei pani a lievitazione naturale ... purtroppo ho ancora memoria dell'aroma provato in un panificio a Lione. Al gusto emerge la "dolcezza" del farro, nessuna acidità sufficientemente esplicita, la crosta ben caramellizzata. Prezzo (2011 a Milano): 12 €/kg.

Here my (strictly personal) observations, each one has its taste preferences. The miche was at least one day old, so the crust lost its crispiness, but that's not so important. The crumb is soft, but too dry, not yielding silky and translucent, well distributed small alveolage, typic color with a light tone of gray. The Aroma is aligned with the average of other sourdough bread ... unfortunately still the memories of the bread I taste in Lyon. The taste, I feel the "sweetness" from farro, no explicit acidity, the crust is well caramelized. Price (2011 in Milano): 12 €/kg.

Il tutto a confronto con il mio ultimo Paesano (il sacco è finito) su cui ho sperimentato un differente processo, una criptica sintesi: farina 100% buratto, idratazione finale 73%, lievito naturale al 70% di idratazione (salato allo 0.5%), puntata 3h a 27-28°C (circa sino al raddoppio), impastamento durante la prima ora in 4 fasi con maggior sviluppo del glutine, formatura più strutturata, appretto a 4°C per 20h, cottura con vapore come al solito.

And this compared with my last Paesano (the bag is empty) with a different process, a criptical synthesis: 100% buratto flour, 73% final hydration, 70% hydration sourdough (salted at 0.5%), 3h bulk rise at 27-28°C (almost double), mixed in the first hour in 4 phases with more gluten development, more structured shaping, proof 20h at 4°C, baked as usual with steam.

Ad anche qui ecco le mie (strettamente personali) osservazioni. La mollica è umida, morbida ma elastica e setosa, alveoli medi ben distribuiti, color crema. Aroma tipico. Al gusto dolce nella mollica con finale leggermente acidulo (lattico), crosta caramellosa e liquorosa. Difetto di formatura! Prezzo (2011): 2.5-3 €/kg.

And also here my (strictly personal) observations. The crumb is moistly, soft but yielding and silk, medium sized well distributed aleolage, cream color. Typical aroma. The taste, sweet crumb with final aftertaste lightly sour (lactic), crust caramelized and liqueurs. Shaping defect! Price (2011): 2.5-3 €/kg.

Qui un tentativo (mal riuscito) di confronto tra due mezze fette.

A (not so good) tentative of comparison between two half slices.

Mebake's picture
Mebake

66% Sourdough Rye (More like the recipe)

I Have blogged about my first 66% Sourdough Rye before Here, but this time, its more like what it should be: close textured, more sour, More Rye-ish. This time i used Medium Rye (I mixed sifted Rye Flour with Whole Rye Flour in 50/50 ratio).

The fermentation happens faster when whole rye is added, and my bulk fermentation was 45 minutes only. As expected, the dough never came together as it would with lower Rye breads, but the falvor of sour rye was very pronounced.

I guess that this is how Hamelman's 66% sourdough Rye may really look like.

Khalid

JoeVa's picture
JoeVa

Maggio (May)

Dopo un mese pieno di impegni ho finalmente il tempo e la tranquillità per aggiornare il blog. Il mese di maggio è stato un mese frenetico: Corsi di Panificazione, Gite Sociali, Festa del Pane e Festa del Punto Parco hanno scandito i nostri fine settimana.

After a very busy month I finally got some time and tranquility to update the blog. The month of May was full of work: Bread Baking Courses, ItaliaNostra Social Trip, Feast of Bread and the Feast of PuntoParco marked our weekends.

Fortunatamente quasi tutto è andato per il meglio, non senza imprevisti, come il brutto tempo delle ultime settimane che ha "rovinato" la Festa del Punto Parco impedendo lo svolgimento di molte attività previste (animali da cortile, giochi dimenticati, figuranti, risottata nella "pentolaccia" ...).

Fortunately, almost everything has gone well except a very bad weather in recent weeks that has "ruined" the Feast of PuntoParco preventing the conduct of many planned activities.

Ecco un riepilogo degli eventi svolti.

Here a summary of the events of this month.
 

Corsi Panificazione (Bread Baking Courses)

Per il primo anno abbiamo svolto i nostri corsi nel nuovo laboratorio/cucina. Immersi nella bellissima ambientazione tra le due barchesse accanto al nuovo (ma ormai ben collaudato) forno a legna, il tutto incorniciato dal verde della natura e degli orti didattici.

For the first year we did our courses in the new lab / kitchen. Immersed in the beautiful area between the two "barchesse" next to the new (but now well-established) wood fired oven, all surrounded by the natures and our didactic gardens.

Ecco qualche foto che sono riuscito a scattare in quei brevi istanti senza le mani in pasta! Non è stato possibile documentare tutto, ma questo piccolo "assaggio" può darne un'idea.

Here some photos I had the chance to take in those few free moments without my hand full of dough. It wasn't possible to document everything, but I think those images can give you the sense.

Chef: Pane Francese (Chef: French Bread)

Qualche micca a lievitazione naturale cotta nel forno elettrico: farina biologica macinata a pietra, acqua, sale (senza lieviti aggiunti).

Sourdough miches baked in the electric oven: organic stone grounded flour, water, salt (without added yeast).

 

Fuoco e Fiamme: la Pizza (Fire and Flames: Pizza)

Una delle tante, cotta nel forno a legna ... per me la prima volta, che bello! Qui la più semplice, pizza bianca ad alta idratazione e lenta lievitazione: farina bianca, acqua, olio, sale, lievito di birra per l'impasto, solo olio e sale sopra.

One of the many, baked in the wood fired oven ... for me the first time, very nice! Here the simplest, white pizza with slow rising high hydration dough: white flour, water, oil, salt, fresh yeast for the dough, just oil and salt for the topping.

 

Gita in Valchiavenna: tra Crotti, Bresaole e Palazzi

Una gita intensa: l’antica Abbazia cistercense di Piona, Piuro ed il Crotto Belvedere, le cascate dell’Acqua Fraggia ed il Palazzo Vertemate. Questa volta Arturo non ha risparmiato su nulla! Il LINK alla locandina con il programma dettagliato.

A very intense trip: the cistercian Abbey in Piona, Piuro and Crotto Belvedere, Acqua Fraggia waterterfalls and Palazzo Vertemate. This time Arturo planned a very rich trip! Here the LINK to the playbill with the detailed program.

Un collage riassuntivo (clicca sulla foto per visualizzare la versione ad alta risoluzione).

A collage summary (click on the photo to see the high resolution version).

 

Festa del Pane (Feast of Bread)

La prima Festa del Pane a Cascina Favaglie, perfetta occasione per inaugurare ufficialmente il nuovo forno in presenza della giunta comunale. Il nostro progettista Giuseppe, preciso e pignolo, ha fatto un ottimo lavoro, come dice lui scherzando, è già pronto per il prossimo forno.

The first Feast of Bread at Cascina Favaglie, a perfect moment for the official inauguration in presence of the city councile of our new wood fired oven. Our designer Giuseppe, precise and meticulous, done a great job and, as he used to joke, he's still ready for the next one.

Tre giorni di panificazione: sabato, domenica e lunedì. Domenica abbiamo veramente esagerato, tre infornate la mattina ed una, non programmata, il pomeriggio per un totale di 4*30 kg = 120 kg di impasto (l'impasto lo fa il panettiere, ma infornare non è da meno). Poi nel tardo pomeriggio anche 16 pizze con poolish preparate il giorno prima da Arturo e 4 pizze bianche (quelle sopra) impastate a mano durante il corso della pizza di sabato.

Three days of baking: saturday, sunday and monday. Sunday we really exaggerated, three batch in the morning and one, not planned, in the afternoon with a total of 4*30 kg = 120 kg of dough (the dough is mixed by a bakery for us, but baking that stuff is not less). Then in the evening we did also 16 pizze with poolish mixed the day before by Arturo and 4 white pizze (the one showed above) mixed by hand in the pizza baking course of saturday.

(clicca sulla foto per visualizzare la versione ad alta risoluzione)

(click on the photo to see the high resolution version)

 

Festa del Punto Parco (Feast of Punto Parco)

Purtroppo il maltempo ha impedito la realizzazione di gran parte del programma... Nonostante ciò, attorno all'aia (e al forno a legna acceso per l'occasione per riscaldarci...), ci siamo trovati in parecchi e abbiamo tirato sera tra musica, balli, risottate cucinate dalle cuoche di Italia Nostra e l'esibizione canora del Gruppo Corale "Il Melograno". Presente la Giunta Comunale quasi al gran completo. Grazie a tutti per la partecipazione e arrivederci alla prossima manifestazione (che per leggi statistiche dovrà godere per forza del bel tempo...)!

Unfortunately the bad weather has prevented the realization of much of the program ... Nevertheless, around the barnyard (and the oven turned on for the chance to warm up ...), we were a lot of us and we got night with music, dancing, risotto cooked by our chefs of ItaliaNostra and the singing performance of "Il Melograno" Choral Group. Present the City Council almost in full force. Thanks to everyone for participating and we hope to see you the next time (which for statistical laws must necessarily enjoy the goodweather ...)!

codruta's picture
codruta

baguettes, weight, length

hello, I need an advise regarding the right proportion between the length of the baguette and the weight of the dough. My oven (in fact, the stone inside it) is 39cm wide. If I want to make baguettes of 35 cm length, how much dough should I use for one, to obtain a proper ratio of crumb and crust? I guess I'm not the only person out here with a small oven, maybe some of you had the same problem before and can provide a good advise. I made baguettes before, but usualy they were too thin, and once they were too fat (large in diameter)... so, I would appreciate any advise I can get.

codruta

Nickisafoodie's picture
Nickisafoodie

Pizza lovers: Easy to recalibrate home oven up to 35° hotter

Like many I don't have room for a brick oven (condo) and have tried various ways to try to emulate same.  The 550° max setting on my oven makes very good pies, but not nearly as well as my dream 2 minute brick oven pie, nor as good as my 4 minute 650° but "not for everyone" method posted below.  I'm happy with the variables re dough, sauce, and toppings, thus the oven temp being the issue.

I just found a link (see bottom of post) that shows how you can calibrate your oven for up (or down) by 35° in 5° increments.  This feature is common as it is not unusual to find that ovens are off by up to this amount from the factory, thus the manufactuers provide an easy way to calibrate to the correct temp assuming you tested oven with an accurate themometer.  Once that is done, the fun begins:

I have a better use for this feature since my oven is accurate - increase by the max 35° adjustment and hope that my 550° max turns into 585°.  That should result in a 5-6 minute pie vs. 9-12 minutes at 500-550°.  Given my GE oven has a self cleaning function with insulation designed to withstand 900+ degrees for hours on end, there is no danger with a mere 35° increment- nor would the manufactuers provide for this feature if the insulation could not handle it.

For the adventurous- The above approach will be a departure as I usually run my oven at 650°-675° with a 90 minute preheat resulting in a 3 1/2 to 4 minute pizza as explained in this post: http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/18417/pizza-baked-home-650-degrees  Those pizza's rock and gets me as close as I can absent the real deal.  This method works very well for me when the stone is near the bottom of the oven, and after the pre-heat I turn on the broiler (which is on the ceiling of the oven, about 12 inches above stone/pizza.  The retained heat of the stone combined with the broiler flame is the closest I've come to emulating a 2-3 minute brick oven bake.  Also at these hotter temps the hydration percentage needs to be in the 70-75% range (I use natural leavan and 3 day fridge per the above link) to ensure a moist geletinized inner crust and slightly chared outer crust. 

But 90 minutes is a long time to get my stone to 650° thus my interest in trying out what will hopefully be a 585° oven and likely a 45-60 minute preheat.  And at 585° I will just let the oven bake rather than trying the broiler after the preheat (but may have to revisit that and try!).  Hopefully this weekend...

The following link talks about GE ovens, likely that most manufactuers have this feature either in the owner's manual or on Google.  Easy to reset back for traditional baking...

http://www.appliance411.com/faq/temperature-calibration.shtml

Damp Patch's picture
Damp Patch

Drying a starter. Is it possible?

Hi,

I've recently discovered this website and think it looks fantastic.

I've just been wondering recently if it is possible to dry, and therefore keep indefinitely, a soughdough starter.

If you were to spread some starter out on a baking tray, let it completely dry out for a few days and then flake it into an airtight bag, would you then be able to bring it back to life at a much later date?

Has anybody tried this as I'm tempted to give it a go in case I ever kill my starter.

Thanks, and I look forward to learning a lot more from this site in future.

Tom

Devon, UK.

MadAboutB8's picture
MadAboutB8

Krantz (yeast) Cake with peanut praline and chocolate filling

  

I found this recipe in Dan Lepard’s Exceptional Cake cookbook. Given that it was book about cake, I didn’t expect to see baked goods with yeast in there, especially not for the dish called Krantz Cake.

Apparently (quoting Dan Lepard) yeast cake is a feature of German baking. I was curious to find out how yeast leavened cake would be     different from baking powder or soda.

I expected the cake to have texture of soft bread, like brioche, something soft but still feel like bread. It actually turned out to be quite cakey soft, which I think resulted from the mixture of butter, egg yolks, cream cheese and sour cream in the dough. However, it wasn't as crumbly and fluffy as the typical cake. It still got some chewy texture in it which was rather nice. 

The recipe called for walnut, sugar and chocolate for bread filling. I replaced ground walnut and sugar with crushed peanut praline I made some weeks ago. The crushed peanut praline went well with the recipe. It gave caramelised crust and lovly flavour. The cake shape is similar to babka (cut-side-up plaited bread). 

Full post, more photos and recipe can be found here

Sue

http://youcandoitathome.blogspot.com





breadbakingbassplayer's picture
breadbakingbass...

6/4/11 - Latest Bakes - Invisible Pizza, Baguettes, and Olive Oil Brioche with Dried Pears and Toasted Walnuts

Hi All,
Just wanted to let you all know I'm still baking even if I'm not posting as often...  Here's the latest from my kitchen:
1.  Invisible Pizzas (We forgot to take pictures)
2.  Baguettes
3.  Olive Oil Brioche with Dried Pears and Toasted Walnuts

This recipe makes 2 pizzas, 2 baguettes, and 2 olive oil brioches...  Bear with me through all the madness:
Recipe: (Makes approx 3000g of base dough)
Stiff Levain:
400g @ 50% hydration

Sponge:
200g AP
200g Water
1/2 tsp instant yeast
402g Total

Final Dough (approx 65% hydration):
1196g AP
52g WW
36g Rye
808g Water
38g Kosher Salt
1 1/2 tsp Instant Yeast
402g Sponge
400g Stiff Levain

For Olive Oil Brioche with Dried Pears and Toasted Walnuts
180g Extra Virgin Olive Oil
175g Dried Pears
175g Toasted Walnuts

Tools:
Digital Scale
Large Stainless Steel Mixing Bowl
Measuring Spoons
2 - 4L Plastic Tubs with Covers
Rubber Spatula
Plastic Scraper
Bowl with Water
Large Plastic Bag
Baking Stone
Steam Pan with Lava Rocks
Oven Thermometer
Instant Read Thermometer
Peel
2 Loaf Pans
Baker's Linen

Method:
1.  Prepare stiff levain, mix, let ferment for up to 1 hour, and refrigerate for 24-48 hours.

2.  4:45pm - Mix sponge, cover and let rest for up to 1 hour.

3.  5:30pm - Mix base dough by hand in large mixing bowl. Add wet ingredients, and then dry ingredients on top.  Mix from bottom up with rubber spatula.  When shaggy dough forms, mix dough with wet hands for a few seconds to work out all lumps.  Place in bag and let rest for 1 hour.

4.  Roughly cut up dried pears, and toast walnuts in pan and let cool.  Lightly oil 2 tubs with olive oil.  6:30pm - Stretch and fold dough and divide into 1600g and 1200g portions.  Place 1600g gram portion into oiled tub, cover and let rest.  7:00pm - Turn baguette dough, and in the mixing bowl with the 1200g portion, add 180g of olive oil and slowly mix by hand until olive oil is combined completely into the dough.  This takes about 10-15 minutes.  Then add the toasted walnuts and dried pears.  Mix until combined evenly, place into plastic tub, rest for 45 minutes.

5.  7:45pm - Turn baguette dough, and brioche dough, rest for 1 hr 15 minutes.

6.  9:00pm - Arrange baking stone in oven on 2nd rack from bottom.  Preheat with convection until oven thermometer on baking stone reaches 600F.  Divide baguette dough into 4 pieces at 400g.  Preshape 2 baguettes.

7.  9:15pm - Final shape baguettes, place on bakers linen couch, cover and let proof for 60-90 minutes.  Oil 2 loaf pans with olive oil, divide dough into 2 equal portions (900g approx), shape brioche, brush tops with olive oil, cover with plastic wrap and leave to proof until dough reaches top of pan, then refrigerate.

8.  9:45pm -  Prepare pizza as you like, turn off convection and oven temp down to 550F, and bake for 6-7 minutes directly on stone.  Boil some water in a pot for steam pan.

9.  10:30pm - Turn oven down to 475F, Pour boiling water into steam pan, and place on top rack of oven.  Turn baguettes out on to flipping board, slash and place in oven.  Bake 10 minutes at 475F with steam, then 15 minutes at 450F without steam.  Cool completely before cutting.  Take brioche out of refrigerator.

10.  Turn oven down to 400F, remove plastic wrap from brioche, place in oven in pan directly on baking stone.  Bake for 45 minutes until internal temp reaches 190F to 200F.  Turn oven off.  Remove from pan, return loaves to oven directly on baking stone for 10 minutes.  Cool completely before cutting.

Whew!

Enjoy…

Tim

Grandma Dawn's picture
Grandma Dawn

Fun Buns Tools and Techniques

Several years ago I embarked on research and development of fun shaped buns.   The doughs I use are:  whole wheat, sweet roll, cheese, oatmeal, and caraway rye.  For the eyes I use currants, raisins, olive slices, a date slice filled with a craisin.   For fins and feet I sometimes roll out and cut pieces, other times I make a ball and cut toes in.  I use an egg white for the glaze and for some designs sprinkle with sesame seeds. 

Here are the tools I use: 

Dough cutter to divide the loaf, rolling pin, two scissors, bamboo skewer, chopstick, exacto knife, miscellaneous cookie cutters, and individual cue cards.

After the dough has risen the first time, I cut it into the number of wedges according to the number of buns I am making that day.  I found that working with wedges helped immensely to get the proportions correct for each bun.  I made a cue card for each design to show me how many pieces each design required and how to best cut the wedge to get the pieces.  I also added helpful notes from previous attempts. 

I like to make several different designs in one session.  That's where the cue cards come in handy.  Since you are working with a living organism working quickly is necessary.  I found it best to make a mix of easy and difficult designs so as to fit within the time frame I had.  I kept all pieces covered with lightly oiled clear wrap so as to prevent a crust from forming.  I found that making the bodies first then adding the smaller pieces worked the best.  I would shape the body, press it down to secure it on the pan then move on to the next body.  I would then start adding the smaller pieces, then the eyes and slash in details.  The bamboo skewer blunt end is used to make indents in the dough for the eyes and noses.  The chopstick is good for larger designs and also for cupping the ears of the bear.  The scissors are for the hedgehog and cat. 

 The cookie cutters are for the fish, grape cluster, and rose. 

Right up until the time they go in the oven I continue to check on them and push the dried fruit in, etc. if they start to fall out of the rising dough. 

At first I thought I had to pinch the pieces together but found that simply tucking them under slightly held them together just fine.

Just before baking I continue to make small adjustments, redefine slashes if necessary, then brush on the egg white.  If any egg white pools in the eyes I dab off the excess with a corner of a paper towel.

My failure rate is very small.  It seems that with a little diligence the eyes stay put and the pieces stick together.

 

 

RonRay's picture
RonRay

Apricot Yeast Water Pullman Loaf

Apricot Yeast Water Pullman Loaf

Previously, I posted a short Pullman loaf leavened with Potato Yeast Water (PYW). Link:

http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/23793/potato-yeast-water-pullman-loaf-shorty

In that post, I concluded that “Although, I found PYW worked well, and made a good loaf, I decided that the making of the levain, and creating another YW seems unjustified just to introduce potato flakes and sugar into a loaf.” In this post, I simplified the process by introducing the sugar and potato flakes in the Final Dough, and used a strong Apricot Yeast Water (AYW) culture as very nearly the total water used in the loaf. The only other water was the approximate 3.8g contained in the unsalted butter used.


The formula above provides the Baker's Percentages of the ingredients, as well as the weight of ingredients actually used for the reduced sized Pullman pan, which only required 482g of dough. The percent hydration level was about 62.2%HL.



A fuller account of the formula, Apricot YW (AYW) 2-stage levain builds, method, and observations can also be found in a PDF of my baking log at this link:

D-b_110529_Apricot YW Pullman 482g_[Photos]_110602-1635 .pdf - https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=explorer&chrome=true&srcid=0B_MScoZfDZkwMWFjMWNiMzktYjNjMy00MzU1LTkxNjQtOTAyZjM5ODQzMThm&hl=en_US



Actually, a 3-Build Levain had been planned, but in a hectic kitchen moment, I started the Final Dough with only the first two levain builds. Fortunately, I caught my error in time to simply add the remaining 100g of AYW and 100g of AP flour into the Final Dough mix and all worked well.


The short Pullman loaf measured (5-5/8” x 4” x 4”)/(14.3 cm x 10.2 cm) and the 482g batch size managed to fill the pan with a 9 hour rise at 82ºF ( 27.8º C) . For additional details, see the notes in the above mentioned PDF.



The crumb texture was soft, but firm, moist and quite flavorful, with a very pleasant fragrance, however, there was no discernible taste of apricot that I could detect.



It worked very well as both a sandwich bread and for excellent toast.



It has survived three and one half days, as of this writing (I had a loaf in front of it to eat, too). I just had another sandwich made from it and it seems as moist and fresh as it did when first cut. The flavor enhancement resulting from the Apricot YW, rather than just the Potato YW used in some previous loaves, is a fine improvement of the formula. I do think, however, that I will do the Build-#3 as a levain build on the next loaf, rather than mixing the 100g of AYW and AP flour in the final dough. On the other hand, this accident demonstrated that a great loaf can be made this way, as well.

Ron

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