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Submitted by dmsnyder on February 4, 2012 - 11:09pm My San Francisco Sourdough Quest, Take 2A couple weeks ago, I blogged on my attempt to make a San Francisco-style sourdough bread that had a crunchy crust, moderate sourness and a nice, complex flavor. (See My San Francisco Sourdough Quest). My quest continued this weekend. The formula and method were amended in these ways: 1. Rather than activating my starter at 100% hydration and building my 50% hydration levain from that, I activated my stored 50% hydration starter at 50% hydration. In other words, I did two firm starter elaborations. These were fed at 12 hour intervals. 2. The levain was then fermented at room temperature for 16 hours and was not retarded. 3. The final dough was mixed substituting 10% whole wheat flour for some of the AP flour. Otherwise, my formula and method were as described previously. I should point out that, with these changes, the only differences from the formula and method for San Francisco Sourdough found in Advanced Bread & Pastry were: 1. The substitution of some WW for AP flour, 2. The longer fermentation of the firm levain, and 3. The higher fermentation and proofing temperatures or the final dough and formed loaves.
The results were very similar, but the bread was substantially more sour. I'd rate it as moderately to very sour. The crumb was a little less open, presumably because the WW flour absorbed a little more water. I loved it. My wife loved it. I recommend it. David
Submitted by dmsnyder on January 22, 2012 - 10:22pm My San Francisco Sourdough Quest
Progress is being made! After my disappointment with the Kline, et al San Francisco Sourdough method, I re-read and re-digested what I know about time, temperature, ingredients and the care and feeding of sourdough flora. I suppose the principal new concept to sink in was that the fermentation temperature matters a whole lot, and what's best for yeast growth is not best for lactobacillus growth, and what's best for lactobacillus multiplication is not what's best for acid production. In a way, I rediscovered something I found out several years ago but neglected to pursue. (Reading old blogs was interesting.) Those very smart fellows at Detmolder were on to something: You can have it all, if you do it in stages. I'm pretty sure that what I did was not the only way to achieve pretty much the same result. It may not be the best way, but it worked for me. Note that I achieved the necessary temperature control with a Brød & Taylor Folding Proofer, but you can achieve this with a home-made proofing box as well. My goal has been to make a moderately sour, mostly white “San Francisco style” sourdough bread that has a crunchy crust, an open crumb and a nice, sweet, complex flavor, not just sourness. Today's bake achieved all of these characteristics, and I'm a very happy baker (and bread eater)! I started with the “San Francisco Sourdough” formula in Michel Suas' Advanced Bread and Pastry, but modified the method, as described below: My stock starter is 50% hydration. My sourdough starter is fed with a mix of 70% AP, 20% WW and 10% whole rye. I started by refreshing my stock starter with 40 g starter, 100 g water and 100 g flour mix and fermenting it at room temperature for 12 hours. I used this to build the stiff levain. (Note: This is a liquid starter - 100% hydration.)
Method
San Francisco Sourdough (and New York Bagel from ITJB. This weekend's "Coast to Coast" baking.)
San Francisco Sourdough Crumb These loaves had a rather flat profile but did have fair oven spring and bloom. When sliced after cooling for 4 hours, the crust was crunchy. The crumb was open. The aroma was decidedly sour. The crumb was tender-chewy and cool in the mouth. The flavor of the crumb was a bit sweet and wheaty with a moderately sour after taste. The crust was nutty, but I would have personally enjoyed it more had it been darker, even though that would not have been strictly in the the “San Francisco Style” of old. This method is spread over 3 days, so it requires some advance planning. Since it requires little time, except on the second day, it should be easy to fit into almost anyone's schedule. It this is the kind of bread you're after, it's definitely worth the effort. Future plans
David Submitted to YeastSpotting Addendum added 2/4/2012: Please see My San Francisco Sourdough Quest, Take 2 for my next bake. The modifications resulted in improvements in the crumb and a more assertively sour bread. Submitted by dmsnyder on January 15, 2012 - 7:15pm San Francisco Sourdough Bread: Was the secret worth revealing?San Francisco Sour Dough French Bread according to Kline, Sugihara and McCready (The Bakers Digest, April, 1970) In their 1970 Bakers Digest articles, Kline, Sugihara and McCready first deliniated the microbiology of San Francisco Sourdough bread. Their discovery of the special relationship between the dominant yeast – S. exeguna – and a unique species of Lactobacillus provided understanding of the special flavor of San Francisco sourdough and the stability of the sourdough cultures over time. In the first of their articles, they also described the process San Francisco bakeries used to maintain their starters and make their breads. They describe the process as if all of the bakeries used the same process without actually stating this was the case. Regardless, the process they describe is significantly different in several respects from those found in any of the currently popular baking books in my collection. Because of that, and because I'm curious about whether the process they described can be successfully replicated in my own kitchen and produce bread like that of the traditional San Francisco sourdough breads with which I'm familial, I made a couple of loaves following their procedures. The formulas and procedures described by Kline, et al. in the articles cited are as follows:
To make 2 kg of dough, I proceeded as follows:
1. I built the firm starter for the sponge with two elaborations, starting with my firm stored starter. 2. The sponge was mixed and fermented at 80º F for 10 hours.
Note: Accounting for the flour and water in the sponge, the actual final dough hydration was 58.9%. Procedures
This is a low-hydration dough. After mixing, it was very smooth and barely tacky in consistency. It was still very dry and firm before the final shaping. After the six hours final proofing, the dough was very soft and puffy. I was afraid it was over-proofed and would deflate when scored or, at least, have poor oven spring and bloom. However, It took the scoring well and had good oven spring and bloom. The baking temperature was lower than I usually employ for lean dough hearth loaves, and the crust color was thus lighter than most of my bakes. The crust color was quite characteristic of the San Francisco Sourdough breads I remember from the 1960's and 1970's. The loaf profile also was typical – a rather flat loaf.
The aroma of the vented oven air was remarkably sour during the final 10-15 minutes of the bake. The bread, once baked, cooled and sliced, revealed a very even crumb. The crust was somewhat crunchy but more chewy. The flavor was minimally sour and had little complexity or sweetness to it. All in all, a handsome loaf with undistinguished eating quality. I expect I could tweak more sourness out of this dough by retarding the loaves overnight, but I don't particularly feel inclined to experiment further when there are so many other breads that are so much better. Comments regarding the process described would be very welcome. I am curious regarding the disparity between the San Francisco Sourdough's I have had, supposedly produced by this method, and what I baked at home. Any thoughts? David
Submitted by dmsnyder on January 2, 2012 - 10:15pm Larraburu two - variations on a classic San Francisco SourdoughA couple days ago, I blogged on my bake of a San Francisco sourdough bread based on Larraburu Bros. recipe as described in the 1978 Cereal Chemistry article by Galal, et al., as cited by Doc.Dough. (See San Francisco Sourdough Bread using Larraburu Bros. formula.) It was a delicious bread, but it lacked the sourdough tang usually associated with San Francisco sourdough. This blob describes some modifications of the recipe. I hoped to retain the good qualities of this bread while increasing the sourness somewhat. In summary, the modifications were:
For three 667 g loaves:
Mix thoroughly and ferment for 12 hours at room temperature.
Procedure (Note: I actually mixed the dough in a Bosch Universal Plus, using the dough hook. I have left the instructions as if I had used a KitchenAid mixer. This amount of stiff dough would have challenged my KitchenAid. Also, I retarded one of the 3 loaves I made overnight in the refrigerator.)
This bread came out very dark for reasons that are not clear to me. Again, the “poke test” failed me. The loaves seemed ready to bake after 30 minutes in the proofer, but their oven spring and bloom seemed to indicate under-proofing. The crust was nice and crisp. The flavor was different from the first bake, partly because of the rye and whole wheat flours, but it was also very slightly sour – more so the day after baking. I would still categorize it as “very slightly sour.”
Larraburu SFSD, modified formula
Larraburu SFSD, modified formula crust ![]() Larraburu SFSD, modified formula Crumb I cold retarded one loaf from this batch for about 24 hours en couche, inside a plastic bag. Because of the apparent under-proofing problem described above, it then was warmed up at room temperature for about 90 minutes and proofed at 105º F for another 75 minutes. The smooth surface of the loaf which had been face down on the couche was significantly dried out. The couche had absorbed a lot of its moisture. Because of my experience with the previous bake, described above, I baked this loaf at 440º F for a total of 30 minutes, leaving it in the turned off oven with the door ajar for 20 minutes. The oven spring and bloom were moderated by these changes. The color was pretty much perfect, to my taste.
Larraburu SFSD, modified formula and procedure
Larraburu SFSD, modified formula and procedure: Crumb The aroma of the sliced bread was whole-wheaty and ... slightly sour. The crust was crunchy and the flavor of the crumb was decidedly sour ... very sour. It was a very different bread from the ones that had 1) not been cold retarded and 2) had been proofed for a very much shorter time at a warmer temperature. I'm a very happy sourdough baker! The next step will be to return to the original formula but use the present modified procedure. David Submittted to YeastSpotting
Submitted by dmsnyder on December 30, 2011 - 5:53pm San Francisco Sourdough Bread using Larraburu Bros. formula
Back in May, 2010, bnom posted a reminiscence of the San Francisco Sourdough bread baked by Larraburu Brothers Bakery, which went out of business about 30 years ago after a fire in their plant. (See Divine inspiration--for me it way Larraburu Brother's SF SD. What was it for you?) For many who grew up eating it, the Larraburu bread was the quintessential San Francisco Sourdough. Although the bakery is long-gone (and much lamented), Doc.Dough found a journal article from 1978 describing their formula and process, so we might attempt to reproduce this famous bread. Doc.Dough's citation is quoted below, as follows:
Specific instructions for mixing are not provided, but I would surmise that, because of the very short bulk fermentation and long proofing times, Larraburu Brothers used an intensive mix. This would result in a bread with high volume but a relatively dense, even crumb. I altered the procedure to use an autolyse, a less intensive mix, a longer bulk fermentation with a stretch and fold and a shorter proof. My intention was to bake a bread with a more open crumb structure and better flavor. The autolyse allows the flour to absorb the water and for gluten to start developing. This head start on gluten development allows for a shorter mixing time to get to the desired stage of gluten development. Less mixing has two principal effects: 1) The gluten strands are less organized, resulting in a more open crumb with a random distribution of holes of varying size. 2) Less oxidation of the carotenoid pigments in the flour, resulting in a more yellow crumb color and better bread flavor. Note that the fermentation and proofing temperature control was made possible by using a Brod & Taylor Proofing Box. To make one 1 kg loaf:
Mix thoroughly and ferment for 9-10 hours at 80º F in a lightly oiled bowl, covered tightly.
Procedure
Proofed, slashed and ready to bake The bread had exuberant oven spring and bloom. In hindsight, it could have proofed for another 15 minutes or so without harm. I baked it for a total of 40 minutes. The crust was very firm, and the loaf sang nicely while cooling. The aroma was that of fresh-baked bread without any yeasty overtones.
Crackley Crust
Classic SF SD crumb I sliced and tasted the bread about 3 hours after it came out of the oven. The aroma of the bread was sweet and wheaty. The crust was very crunchy with a wonderful flavor I have had from the crusts of excellent bakery loaves but not before from my oven. The crumb was quite tender and cool-feeling. The flavor was sweet with only a hint of lactic acid, creamy-type sourness. I could discern no acetic acid presence at all, much to my surprise. Now, that's not "bad!" I'd say this may be the best flavored French-style pain au levain I've ever made. But it does certainly not have the assertive, vinegary tang usually associated with San Francisco Sourdough. In fact, my wife, who is not at all fond of super-sour sourdoughs, said, "This is better than San Francisco Sourdough!" I try not to argue with her, but it's clearly a matter of taste. I'm going to give this recipe some thought and may tweak it to get more sourness, but, you know, I may make it just like this again too. It's really outstanding! David Submitted to YeastSpotting Submitted by freerk on November 14, 2010 - 6:27am San Francisco ZuurdesemBecause there are hardly any bread baking videos out there in Dutch, I decided to do it myself; this loaf is way too good to be only made in English!
Submitted by freerk on November 11, 2010 - 4:26am san francisco sourdough (now with how to video's)Okay, there must be at least a dozen or so, pictures of this specific bread lurking around the site since it is such a famous loaf, but hey; I'm new and it is my first SFSD, so.... I need to show off my results a little, so here they are, whether you like it or not
Upon searching Youtube and various other video sites for a comprehensive "how to" for artisan breadbaking in Dutch, i realized there is very little to be found in my (more or less) native language. So I decided to pull out the DV-camrecorder and made a (hopefully) comprehensive step by step video in Dutch. I will be posting it here once it is edited. The San Francisco Style Sourdough is too nice NOT te be made in other languages than English :-) Okay, let's move in a little closer on the loafs I produced this morning:
I find photographing bread, at least in indoor conditions (and after all, that IS where most of us bake our breads) to be very tricky. I am just a poor amateur trying to improve, so if you guys and gals have any tips for me to make my breads stand out a little more; let me know, I would really appreciate it!
Here a close up after cutting the loaf: I probably should have cleaned the crust off after cutting the bread, 'cause now it looks a little "dirty"...
It was a lot of work, that San Francisco Style Sourdough, but the result is phenomenal; even though I had expected the loaf to be a little darker on the inside with the whole wheat and the rye, the taste and texture worked really nice. Usually I take my loafs out of the oven just a tad before it is time, because I think they look prettier on a picture when the crust is more golden than caramelized, but I managed to keep these loafs in until they had a rich dark chewy crust. Not so good for the picture, great for eating though :-) The crumb is decent, but nothing to write home about I think; I used Reinhart's shaping technique for boules, and although I tried to work as swift and elegant as the master himself, I fear that some of my airpockets left me there and didn't come back. But my SD-starter made up for a it; a medium sour, tangy flavor! Hoping you photo-buffs out there will provide me with some good tips, thanks for taking the time to react! Update: Here are the "how to video's" (part I has english captions, I'm working on doiing the same for Part II, gimme some time :-)
Freerk
Submitted by dmsnyder on April 25, 2010 - 5:36pm Packing for a visit to familyMaybe this belongs in the "You know you're a bread baker when ..." topic. I'm going to visit my younger son and his family next week. I haven't started packing, but I have the breads baked.
This is basically my San Joaquin Sourdough but made with the Gérard Rubaud flour mix. I tasted this loaf's mate yesterday (as in 4 slices). The truth is, Rubaud's flour mix is better when baked using Rubaud's formula and methods, and the San Joaquin Sourdough is better using my usual AP with 10% dark rye. Live and learn. Not that this is bad bread. It's just not astonishingly wonderful. (My grand daughters deserve astonishingly wonderful bread.)
These boules are the San Francisco Sourdough from Michel Suas' "Advanced Bread & Pastry." It's a wonderful bread. I spiked my starter flour mix which already has 10% rye with extra rye and made a very firm starter which was allowed to ferment for about 16 hours at room temperature. I got a bit more sour tang than previous bakes, which was what I was shooting for. The crust is nice and crisp, and the crumb is quite open for moderate hydration (67%?) bread.
And, mostly because of how my wife's face lights up when she walks into the house while it's baking ...
The Cinnamon-Raisin-Walnut Bread from Reinhart's "The Bread Baker's Apprentice." I feel better, knowing we won't starve in Las Vegas. David Submitted by dmsnyder on March 7, 2010 - 5:41pm Gérard Rubaud Miche and an inadvertent experimentThis weekend I made a miche with Gérard Rubaud's flour mix for the first time. It's nowhere near as beautiful as the ones with which Shiao-Ping introduced Rubaud's formula to TFL, but it is delicious. The miche does seem to have a more mellow flavor than the other breads I've made with this flour mix, but then I didn't slice and taste it for a good 15 hours after it was baked. The flour mix and formula I used was ...
I also made a couple 1 lb boules of the San Francisco Sourdough from "Advanced Bread & Pastry" by Michel Suas. It was an extremely extensible dough, made this time with WFM AP Flour (non-organic. They were out of the organic). I retarded the loaves overnight but wanted to give them an early start, so I took them out of the fridge and turned on my oven when I first got to the kitchen this morning.
I trust you correctly inferred this was done before my first cup of coffee. Always risky.
Well, I did have my baking stone in the oven when I turned it on but not my steaming setup. I discovered this when the loaves were ready to load, of course. I did give the oven a series of spritzes with a spray bottle, but my result was a nice illustration of why we bake with steam. So, for your interest ...
Note the dull crust and the modest bloom and spring.
I haven't cut it yet. I'm sure it's fine eating, but beautiful it ain't.
David
Submitted by dmsnyder on January 23, 2010 - 10:39pm Crackly Crust & Shiny Crumb: San Francisco Sourdough from AB&PToday's bake: I was asked by a TFL member who had already packed his copy of Advanced Bread & Pastry in preparation for a move for the formula for this bread. I have added it, below. Happy baking!
Boules
Method
Crackly Crust
Crumb David |
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