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Submitted by arlo on November 20, 2009 - 3:13pm My most recent 'Vermont Sourdough' attempt; With a success!
This mornings attempt at Jeffery Hamelman's 'Vermont Sourdough'. The dough was ever so sticky when kneading by hand, and since I didn't add any extra flour, it took all over 10 minutes by hand to get it to the right consistency. Something I always did before was add extra flour until I learned that was a 'no-no'. I must admit, after having taken the Bake with Zing! class, I found out I am a hands on learner type of guy. My breads are starting to come together nicer since I figured out the stretch and fold method, kneading and baking skills through first hand experience from some great bakers. I guess reading the text could never get through to me well enough. When the bread is cooled, I'll have pictures of the crumb.
Submitted by SumisuYoshi on November 19, 2009 - 3:10am Royal Grains BreadThis bread is heavily inspired by the Multi-grain Extraordinaire recipe from Bread Baker's Apprentice and really, it came out of my desire to stuff even more grains and grain flavor into that bread. I first made the Multi-grain Extraordinaire back in late September, and while I liked it quite a bit I was really looking for a bit more graininess, so to speak. I hadn't thought about that again until this weekend, as I knew I needed some lunch bread but I wasn't sure what to make. When I was digging in the cupboard for the pasta I needed for a pumpkin stew (more on that in a later post!) I saw the forbidden rice and purple barley I got a while back. Suddenly I had it, time to rework the recipe in search of more 'graininess'! In light of the supposed royal nature of the forbidden rice (although that is probably mostly marketing) and the similarity in color of the cooked rice to the ancient Royal Purple, I decided to name this Royal Grains Bread. Royal Grain Bread Recipe Makes: One 2 lb loaf or 6-12 rolls Time: 2 days. First day: soaker and starter. Second day: mix final dough, ferment, degas, shape, final rise, bake. Ingredients: (baker's percentages at the end of hte post) Grain Soaker:
Stiff Sourdough Starter:
Final Dough:
Directions:
Note: If you wish to make this loaf without levain, skip the levain step and in the final dough use: 10.5 oz. bread flour, 5.5-6.5 oz. water and add in 2¼ tsp. instant or active dry yeast (add the instant to the dry ingredients and the active dry to the water and stir well). The rise times will of course be very different, probably around 1.5 to 2 hours for the first rise, and 1-1.5 hours for the second rise.
Some more photos: Forbidden Rice and Purple Barley: Shaped and Panned Loaf: Risen Loaf: Baker's Percentage: Soaker:
Starter
Dough
Straight Dough Version:
Submitted by arlo on November 13, 2009 - 4:49pm My "Zingermans Farm Loaf' Boule
After having successfully fed my starter from Zingermans last week, turned it into a chef and then a levain, I was finally able to start crafting my own Farm Loaf using Zingerman's Bakehouse recipe last night! I started the bread last night by prepping the levain and letting it set for 12 hours. In the morning I started the mixing and crafting, mixing in bowl till combined...kneading for 12 minutes and so on. After letting it set for 3 hours with two stretch and folds...I proceeded to let it ferment again for 3 and a half hours more. One thing I've learned so far from Zingermans it all their recipes seem to take time...lots. I preshaped the loaf around 2 o'clock, placed it in my banneton and by five o'clock, it was ready to bake! 18 hours of overall time it took for this bread, but from all the farm loaves I've tasted, it is worth it. If this bread wasn't still so freshly baked, I would have pictures of the crumb, but I've learned to wait before slicing bread : ) Next week I will be attempting the Vermont Sourdough by Hamelman one more time since my last few attempts haven't been that great. Hopefully with my newly acquired knowledge I will be able to craft a nicer loaf though.
Also baked for the first time ever, Palmiers today!Turned out to be a bit 'overdone', but they still tasted yummy!
Submitted by arlo on October 23, 2009 - 6:49am Whole wheat levain with an ounce of rye
Yeah! My Whole Wheat Pain au Levain turned out to be ever so delightful! I achieved some nice oven spring, a good color, and a decent scoring pattern! I do believe my patience is starting to pay off. Here is the crumb 11 hours after baking, the next morning.
And if your wondering, this is just a slightly modified version of The Whole wheat hearth bread from WGB, I just tweaked it to use 1 oz of medium dark rye in the soaker. Thanks TFL'ers for helping me out with this wonderful (some times painful) experience known as bread baking!
...more to come soon of course! Submitted by SumisuYoshi on October 22, 2009 - 9:03pm Méteils au BleuThis recipe comes from Pierre Nury via Daniel Leader's Local Breads, this is the second recipe I've made from the book (and it went a lot better than the first, which I still need to write up). I picked this recipe because it looked like it would make cute little loaves, and one of my friends is a fan of blue cheese. It had also been a while since I made a bread with a significant amount of rye flour, and that one turned out a bit brick like. I had some trepidation starting this recipe because I had heard of many errors in the book (and experienced some of them in the first bread I made), but I didn't notice any glaring errors in this recipe. This recipe is built on a stiff levain, which I definitely prefer, seem to get better results from it, and I already keep a stiff levain so no conversion needed. Once you have the starter build for the recipe you mix the bread flour (55%) and fine ground rye flour (45%) with the water and let the mixture autolyse for 20 minutes. After the autolyse the small portion of starter is incorporated into the dough and the salt sprinkled on top and kneaded in. This was a dense and very sticky dough to knead, thanks mostly to the rye flour I would imagine. The new (large) cutting board I got to handle dough on seems to help make the sticky doughs easier to handle than the plastic mat I used previously though, I was able to get this dough kneaded well enough with minimal flour use. I wasn't expecting a huge rise with the dough, both from comments seen online and experience with how my starter likes to rise, and it was good I wasn't expecting much! I couldn't find the cheese called for in the recipe locally so I picked out an interesting looking selection at my local Whole Foods, Hook's Cheese Company Blue Paradise: It was a little tricky getting the 4 separate pieces of dough evenly sized because the dough was so sticky! A little dusting of flour to control that stickyness for weighing and I got my 4 roughly equal pieces, and preshaped them into little rectangles (it called for squares, but the dough didn't want to go that way). Each of the 4 got stuffed with cheese, rolled up into little loaves, and put in the loaf pans. I was initially surprised that this recipe calls for scoring before proofing, but I guess that helps it to open up a bit more to make a cavity for the cheese you place on top. When it came time to bake, I changed up the instructions a bit. I preheated the oven to 500, used nearly boiling water instead of ice cubes, and then turned the heat down to the suggested temperature as soon as the loaves were in the oven (the ice cubes just don't work so well for me). These loaves smelled really great as they were baking! After they had cooled a little bit, I brought one out to show the person I had baked them for more intending just that he could see and smell it, but it must've smelled really good because he took a big bite out of it! It was really good warm out of the oven like that, I also made a few slices into crostini the other day, topped them with pesto and chicken! Submitted by BreadJazz on August 23, 2009 - 2:23pm The levain mysteryHi after having made several straight dough bread, I would like to try a levain based recipe. I am looking for a method (recipe) on how to prepare levain. I am also looking for some readings on the subject.
Thank you, Submitted by smasty on August 18, 2009 - 9:33am Newbie question on levain...refrigerationI've just finished reading "Bread" from cover to cover, and am ready to begin my very first Levain culture. The question I have is is it ever refrigerated? From what I understand from the book, it's just fed every day and left out on the counter? Even when it matures? Page 358 gives great instructions for building a culture, I guess it sounds funny to me that it is never put in the fridge. Thanks! Sue Submitted by PMcCool on July 18, 2009 - 3:39pm Leader's Classic Auvergne Dark RyeDaniel Leader's book, Local Breads, is simultaneously one of the most intriguing and most frustrating bread books. His breads are rooted in the baking traditions of several European countries, but rendered in ingredients and techniques that are generally accessible to home bakers in the United States. Many are utterly delicious and lovely to behold. But ... one has to recognize going in that a number of the formulae are riddled with errors, often in the quantity or proportion of the dough ingredients. Such is the case with his Classic Auvergne Dark Rye, which begins on page 158 of the book. My descent from home baker to mad scientist began innocently enough. When asked "What kind of bread would you like?", my wife responded "How about something with oatmeal? Or rye?" Since I was at that moment looking at the Auvergne Dark Rye, it seemed auspicious. So much for superstition. The levain is built with 45 grams of stiff levain (50% hydration), 50 grams of water, and 50 grams of fine or medium whole rye flour. So far, so good. This was my first week home from a 3-week trip to South Africa and I had refreshed my starter, which I keep at 50% hydration, early in the week. Having mixed the levain, and put it in a covered container, I retired for the night. This morning, I mixed the first stage of the dough, which called for all of the levain, plus 350 grams of hot tap water, plus 500 grams of medium to fine whole rye flour. The rye flour I have on hand is a medium-to-coarse stone-ground flour, so no big change. (I had mis-read the formula the first time through and thought it called for medium to light rye, which is another thing entirely.) The resulting dough was a thick paste, nearly, but not quite, as stiff as modeling clay. In looking at the notes, I read that Leader describes the dough at this stage as a "thick, smooth batter." Uh oh. I did a quick search of TFL, found a few questions about the bread, but no answers. I searched the Web; same result. I posted here with questions and received mostly condolences (which were appreciated). Deciding that I was already past the point of no return, I decided to forge ahead. So I added water and stirred. And added more water and stirred. And added yet more water, until I had a thick, smooth batter. It only took an additional 325 grams of water. Keep in mind that my "thick, smooth batter" may have an entirely different consistency than Mr. Leader's "thick, smooth batter". Chasing a description is not unlike chasing the wind - even if you do catch it, how do you know for sure? For those of you keeping tally, the dough currently stands at 45 grams of levain, 50+500 grams of flour, and 350+325 grams of water. That's really, really high hydration! And it isn't soupy, which is another adjective that Mr. Leader uses to describe the dough! I let it rest for the prescribed time, then mixed in the salt (20 grams) and bread flour (200 grams). The dough formed a big ball on the KitchenAid's paddle attachment and allowed itself to be pushed around by the dough hook. I eventually did a few stretch and folds in the bowl and called it good, then set it aside for its second fermentation. Mr. Leader recommends that, at the end of the second ferment, the dough be scraped out onto a "lightly floured" counter, where it can be gently shaped into a "loose boule, without overhandling it." I eye the dough, then flour the countertop heavily. Not surprisingly, the dough sticks to everything that contacts it; hands, scraper, counter top. After a few brief tussles, it is in an almost round shape which lasts until I try to move it onto the waiting parchment paper and peel. Eventually, the less-than-round dough is on the peel, where it is patted into a somewhat misshapen, um, miche. In the French sense of the word. I allow it to ferment at the prescribed temperature for the prescribed time. The surface doesn't appear to have the promised cracks, but then, is it realistic to expect that it could with that much water in it? Into the preheated 500 dF (!) oven it goes, with steam. Baking time is estimated at 35-45 minutes, so at 35 minutes the thermometer is inserted and easily reaches 205 dF. I declare it done. The surface still isn't fissured, although there may be a network of smaller cracks lurking beneath the flour on the surface. The color is a deep mahogany. As it cools, the crust softens and the bread feels slightly spongy. It will be tomorrow evening, at the earliest, before I cut into this bread. The thermometer's stem had gummy bits clinging to it when I pulled it out of the loaf, so it will require some time for all that moisture to distribute itself evenly throughout the loaf. I really don't know what to expect. It could be so moist as to be almost cake-like. It could be a gummy mess. Time will tell. Here's a picture of the exterior:
I would estimate that the loaf increased 50-75% in height, due to ovenspring, from its unbaked height. It didn't appear to spread any further while in the oven. It looks pretty (albeit rough) on the outside. I'll post again after cutting into it tomorrow. Paul Postscript - the crumb:
I have to say that I am very pleasantly surprised by this bread; especially considering the amount of improvising that went into it. It has a straight-up, hearty rye flavor; no seeds or spices are included. For me, that's a good thing. There's no particular sourness as of this first tasting. The crumb, while close-textured, is not heavy or stiff. Instead, it is very moist, with a pleasing yielding firmness. The crust is fairly soft and relatively thin; not so surprising when you consider how much water is in this dough, even given the high baking temperature. I'm looking forward to some great sandwiches this week. For anyone who is thinking of giving this a first, or second, try, you may want to note that I took the bread out of the oven at shortly before noon and left it on a cooling rack, covered with a tea towel, until about 9:30 p.m. Then I wrapped it in plastic film (it's bigger than any of the plastic bags I have on hand) and left it until nearly 7:00 p.m. today before slicing it. The purists among you may prefer to leave the bread completely unwrapped. My concern was that the air conditioning might pull moisture out of the bread faster than I wanted. There was no gumminess, probably thanks to the long cooldown with plenty of time for some of the moisture to evaporate while the rest of the moisture redistributed itself. The other tip that I would suggest is to do the shaping directly on the parchment paper. Why wrestle something this sticky into shape, only to have it be distorted during the transfer onto the paper? Now that I've lived through the experience, I think I could make this again and have it turn out reasonably well. But probably not in the next few weeks. Someday. Maybe. Paul
Submitted by PMcCool on July 18, 2009 - 7:00am Question about Leader's Auvergne Dark RyeI've started Leader's Auvergne Dark Rye and run into some confusion. Leader describes the first stage of the dough as a "thick, smooth batter". That's using the starter, 350 grams of water and 500 grams of medium or light rye flour. Right off the bat, a dough at 70% hydration is not going to be a batter. In my case, the matter is compounded by the fact that I'm using a stone-ground whole rye flour, which is even more absorptive. Batter? No. Play-Doh? Yes. After scrounging around TFL and the Web, I find that people have questions about this bread but no one is supplying answers. The final dough hydration of 53% is more in the bagel range and nowhere near Dan's description of "soupy" So, here's what I've done thus far. Chasing a description is like chasing a will-o-the-wisp, I know, but if I'm going down in flames, I may as well shoot for the biggest fireball I can make. To achieve said "thick, smooth batter", I've added water. And more water. And still more water. Another 325 grams of water, in total. That will put the final dough (assuming that I use every bit of the 200 grams of bread flour the formula calls for) at a 136% hydration. My guess is that it will be more sludgy than soupy, since it isn't soupy right now. We'll see how it turns out. Meanwhile, do any of you have any prior experience with this bread? Or suggestions to offer? Thanks, Paul Submitted by davidg618 on July 7, 2009 - 12:33pm Building a Formula-ready levain (starter)I think one of the biggest differences between commercial artisan bakeries, that bake every day, and the amateur that bakes once or even twice a week is how each handles levain day-to-day. From my reading I've gleaned the commercial baker keeps his or her levain (starter) at room temperature, and feeds it on a periodic schedule every 8 or 12 hours. (I'm an amateur, so, experts, please correct me if I'm terribly wrong). on the other hand, most amateurs keep thier starters at refrigerator temperature (~40°F), and feed them once weekly, or less often. I am less certain how commercial bakers maintain their starters' hydration, I assume, however, that perhaps as little as one day earlier they prepare a chosen amount of their maintained starter by feeding it an amount of flour and water that adjusts its hydration to the target for a days baking. Amateurs keep their maintained starters at a fixed hydration, and, although some amateurs maintain their starters very dry (50%-60%), or very wet (~200%), the usual maintenance hydration is ~100% to ~125%. The challenge for us amteurs is, "How do I convert an alive, but nearly dormant, relatively cold starter to a formula ready starter, i.e., the correct formula specified starter weight and hydration?"; one might also add, in a reasonably short time. Some recipes intruct a single feeding, without changing the starter's hydration, followed by a fermentation period--usually 12 hours--and adjusts the dough's flour and water weights to achieve the desired dough hydration. Some amateur bakers convert their maintained starter in one feeding to the target starter weight and hydration, and then feed it an additional one to nine times over a period of one or more days. Both these approaches work, and each have subtle secondary consequences, usually effecting the final bread's flavor. It's not my intent judge the merit of those consequences, merely note they occur. What I want to do is describe the process I use, explain why I use it, and show some results. First of all, I have two primary goals for creating formula-ready starters the way I do. One is related to the final dough. I want to achieve a very active starter, strong enough to produce two strong proofs, in moderately short time, i.e., 2-3 hours each; and with sufficient reserve to provide strong oven spring. And, I want to build this formula-ready starter in no more than 24 hours. The second goal: I want to maintain only a barely necessary amount of starter, e.g., around 200g, 100% hyddration, and fed every two or three weeks. I've succeeded in reaching both goals using a 3-build approach that triples the amount of starter with each build, and adjusts the hydration by one-third of the difference between the maintained starter's hydration and the formula specified starter hydration. A couple of definitions, and a little math: seed starter: the weight of maintained starter that when tripled 3 times yields the formula-specified starter weight. Intermediate starter: the building starter, i.e. the starter at any time between the beginning of Build 1 and the end of Build 3. formula-ready starter weight = seed starter weight x (3x3x3) = seed starter weight x 27; therefore: seed starter weight = formula-ready starter weight/27. But, I always lose some--it sticks to the stirrer, and the its container's walls, so I add a little more, e.g. 20g. intermediate starter hydration = seed starter hydration +(formula-ready starter hydration - seed starter ready hydration)/3 x # of last build. An example: Formula specified starter: 480g, 60% Hydration Seed starter hydration: 100% Added to make up loss: 20g Hence: Seed starter weight = (480 + 20)/27 = 19g (rounded to nearest whole number) Intermediate starter's hydration = 100 +(60 - 100)/3 x 1 or 2 or 3 = 100 + (-40)/3 therefore: during Build 1 the Intermediate starters hydration = 86.7; during build 2 73.3%, and during build 3 60%. Intermediate starter weights are: Build 1, 55g, Build 2, 167g, and Build 3, 500. (all are rounded to nearest whole gram.) Now, I'm not going to do the Baker's math to calculate the flour and water weights added each build. I built a spreadsheet to do that for me, but it is possible by hand using Baker's math, and the intermediate starter weights and hydrations. The results: Below are a series of five photographs that visually document the example above. Why do it this way? I reasoned that adding more than twice the weight of the seed starter (or the intermediate starter weights) would dilute the density of the yeast critters beyond a "strong" density, i.e. each build should peak within eight hours or less, Yeast have little or no motility, so after a time, they are surrounded by their waste products: carbon dioxide and alcohol, not food, so production slows down or stops. Stirring , kneading dough, etc. all redistribute yeast, by-products, and food, but I don't want to be burdened with stirring. Furthermore, my goals focus on yeast production, not bacterial growth. (There are other things one can do to develop flavor contributing starters.) 1. Seed Starter: 19g of my refrigerator maintained starter.
2. Build 2. at its peak 16 hours after starting. I didn't photograph build 1, even at its peak it didn't cover the bottom of the container.
3. Build 3 at zero hour, I'd just added its flour and water additions and spread it out in its container.
4. Build three after only 3 hours (19 hours from the beginning); I consider its growth a good subjective indicator of its strength.
5. Build 3 after 7 hours (23 hours from beginning). You can see evidence it's peaked by the slight deflation around the edges. Immediately after taking this photo I made the dough...
...for this bread. This is D. DiMuzio's San Francisco Sourdough au Levain (firm starter) formula, but I used it for a Thyme-Feta Cheese-Toasted Chestnut vehicle, so it probably doesn't exhibit all the oven spring it might have in an uncluttered dough. Nonetheless, I think it stands a good example of my goal.
Crumb
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