hi all... i'm about to purchase a hobart HL600 60 quart mixer for a small pizza/bakery business. the mixer i'm looking at is listed as 200-240/50/60/3/1.  i called the hobart dealer for advice and they told me that this is a dual phase mixer, and it can be used on either single or three phase power with just some simple re-wiring.  i want to make sure this is possible (the guy that told me has not seen the mixer).  he just said based on the numbers i gave him it "sounds like i could use it anywhere".  can anyone assure me that a 200-240V will work in any area of town?  i'm in the USA.  i thought everything was 120v here, but maybe not?  the spec sheet from the hobart website lists the mixer as  200-240/50/60/3/1.  i just want to be sure that i am able to use the mixer at any location.  currently it's being used at a school and i think it is wired for three phase power.   can anyone verify that this is, in fact, dual phase and that i can use it on single or 3 phase power?  i just want to be sure before i spend the money, and i've had a hard time finding helpful info on the internet searches.  thanks for any help you can provide!  any and all insights welcome!

hi all... i'm about to purchase a hobart HL600 60 quart mixer for a small pizza/bakery business. the mixer i'm looking at is listed as 200-240/50/60/3/1.  i called the hobart dealer for advice and they told me that this is a dual phase mixer, and it can be used on either single or three phase power with just some simple re-wiring.  i want to make sure this is possible (the guy that told me has not seen the mixer).  he just said based on the numbers i gave him it "sounds like i could use it anywhere".  can anyone assure me that a 200-240V will work in any area of town?  i'm in the USA.  i thought everything was 120v here, but maybe not?  the spec sheet from the hobart website lists the mixer as  200-240/50/60/3/1.  i just want to be sure that i am able to use the mixer at any location.  currently it's being used at a school and i think it is wired for three phase power.   can anyone verify that this is, in fact, dual phase and that i can use it on single or 3 phase power?  i just want to be sure before i spend the money, and i've had a hard time finding helpful info on the internet searches.  thanks for any help you can provide!  any and all insights welcome!

Hello all. I have a Hobart c100 and am trying know more about it. First, some background. I bought it from ebay two years ago. It was in a bit rough shape, but came with the latest service records where it was disassembled and regreased. Since it was already repainted in a two-tone color, I completed stripped it down to metal, cleaned, and repainted it. I also replaced the original plug...wow I can't believe they made it with that originally.

Here it is:

I am trying to correctly age this mixer. The best guess I have is 1960's due to the rounded feet. It didn't come with a serial number :( so that's tough, but I did get an extremely good deal and it came with a splash guard, bowl, and authentic c100 dough hook.

Also, I am concerned with some movement when mixing, I think it may be from some looseness with the dough arm connecting to the drive, creating an unbalanced situation, but not sure.

Hoping other c100 owners can help with these questions, and maybe I can be helpful, too, with other questions about the mixer.

Thanks for taking a look!

I am looking for a mildly used Hobart 5qt or 10qt mixer - please let me know if you have one for sale or if you know a good place to find one.

Thanks in advance.

So as someone who has been recently looking through all the stand mixers out there, I am entirely unhappy with everything I've seen. It seems apparent that there are no reasonably priced mixers that can reliably do the job anymore for even a home breadmaker. I have been talking to people in the baking business who have all raved about how their kitchenaids have lasted for 20+ years!!! But then ofcourse I realise that these are really Hobart kitchenaids and not the cheap foreign piece of.... current ones. I'm wondering if its even in the realm of possibility to acquire one of these old hobarts? That would be awesome.... and unlikely. Hopefully someone has some insight.

As  a followup to my original N50 thread: http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/23049/n50-arrivednow-refurb

I'm reporting my experiences stripping down and refurshing my recently-acquired second-hand Hobart N50 mixer (which now will sit alongside my DLX2000). Hopefully it will be useful to anyone else taking this (not too difficult) project on. Unfortunately I didn't take any before pictures (lazy me!), but it was in somewhat beaten-up shape with well-worn paint over most of the base. A nice collection of photos of another person's strip and rebuild can be found here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/zug/sets/72157622051782719/

Parts were missing - the rubber feet, attachment cap and thumbscrew, no dough hook or beater attachment. The Hobart logo sticker was worn. The gear cover plate was warped. The bowl latch spring was broken. She did run, and run smoothly in all gears, but I had always bought it with the goal of a full tear down, repaint and rebuild.

The N50 service manual helped a little, but it is definitely doable without the service manual, which doesn't have any really useful information (such as how to properly set up most of the shims and washers to obtain best operation). Still, it's worthwhile having in additon to the parts diagrams freely available from Hobart.

Firstly, I ordered all of the missing / worn / broken parts. So far so good. As discussed in the thread above, I ordered some Morey synthetic 'blue' food grade grease (expensive - and incorrect - see below). During the strip down, which is mostly a methodical and logical process assuming you have the usual basic tools, patience and a modicum of mechanical knowledge, all went well. You will need some pin punches to drive out the various shaft pins. Other than that, no special equipment needed. The technique in the service manual of hitting the accessory hub attachment with a hammer in order to separate the motor housing from the gear housing is very worthwhile.

The most major problem in the rebuild occurred at this stage.... having removed the motor from the housing, I subsequently dropped the housing on the concrete floor! It was immediately obviously dented - ouch! I completed the tear down, removed all of the old (brown, discoloured) grease from the gear housing and took all of the paintable parts to the powder coaters. There, we discovered that the motor housing wouldn't mate properly to the gear housing due to the dent. Poppping across to the engineering shop, I thought all was a relief, as they managed to gently tap the housing back into (what I thought) was the correct shape, as it aligned and fitted once more to the gear housing. Whew (or so I thought). Got the bits back from the powder coaters, and the bowl lift handle back from the metal re-platers (it's nickle, in case you're interested). Also got some new decals printed using a Hobart logo online: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Hobart_logo.svg

I then reassembled the gears and transmission and packed it with the Morey synthetic blue... some disgustingly sticky, tacky stuff. Now the real pain - the stator wouldn't fit into the still-distorted motor housing - arrrrgh! It's such a tight fit with no tolerance for variance. I tried filing the fins off the inside of the motor housing - and did get it to fit - but of course the rotor then wouldn't line up within it, while still rotating freely with the starter housing on. Realising that I would need a new stator housing was painful in the extreme - but that's what you get for dropping the most expensive piece of the mixer! Determined to see the project through I bit the large bullet and ordered a new housing which arrived in due course. I finally refitted the the motor and connected it all up. Hit the start switch to test... A loud "hummmmmm", but no rotation!! It turns out two problems were occurring:

1) The blue synthetic morey grease was just too tacky. Although it's a NLGI grade 2 viscocity (the correct one), it is extremely tacky stuff. Changing to a different synthtic but soapy-type grease (similar to the original stuff, but synthetic) - hooray!

2) The contacts on the start switch (not the on-off switch, but the switch at the rear of the housing) were not being adequately compressed. I'm not sure why this is, but I have managed to shim between the rotor and switch so that it turns on and off. It's a fine balance between the mixer turning on properly and having the contacts too close so they're shorting. One day I might take it to the local mixer service agent for a quick look, but for now it's working just fine.

I made the first batch of pizza dough and a sourdough bread with it yesterday - and it is a fantastic mixer. It's less work than my DLX2000 - in fact it's no work at all, in that I don't have to babysit the initial process to ensure ingredients are properly incorporating, or ensure the dough is still rotating around the bowl properly. I look forward to trying it out with drier pasta and bagel dough later this week.

As you can see from the photos below - it's a custom two-tone colour, since I couldn't be bothered getting the new motor housing poweder coated in the same colour as the other bits I'd gotten done. I like the effect, I've decided! The new motor housing also came with the warning plate attached, and has a larger bolt at the front corner - visible in the first picture - holding it onto the column (which necessitated tapping a larger 3/8th" hole into the column).

Overall, it's been a fun project (dropped housing notwithstanding). I've learnt a lot - and can now pull the mixer to bits in about 5-10 minutes.

The Summer Camp I'm working at has a Hobart mixer S-601, really old, the regional office says it's been obsolete for about 40 years, it still works, but I don't know the routine maintenance I should perform- oil change and such...
So what kind of maintenance should I do and how?

thanks a lot, CJ.

OK - so Ihave the option of picking up a used Hobart N50 G (older model) or a used 12 quart A120. I currently own and enjoy a DLX2000, but want to try planetary, and have a bit of a collector's mentality - can't help it!

After searching for "N50" and pretty much reading every post on TFL, I'm curious as to your real world experiences with an N50 in terms of capacity. I'd rather have "more than I need now" so I can expand operations if need be. I usually do 1-2kg batches of bread doughs including 100% wholemeal (but not wholegrain or rye - yet).

I also do 1-2 kg of 60% hydration pizza dough and around 1-1.5kg batches of stiff bagel dough, using high gluten flour.

According to Hobart themselves (https://my.hobartcorp.com/resourcecenter/ProductDocumentation/F-40180.pdf), the N50 can't do bread doughs at all! While I suspect they are being a little modest in this respect, I am wondering whether the larger, 1/2 hp motor of the A120 might not be the better bet.

Your thoughts / experiences ?

Just joined the site.  I have recently killed my kitchen aid mixer.  Walked away from it with too much dough in it.  Well when I came back, the kitchen was full of smoke and the mixer was d-e-a-d.  So I have been looking around for new ones.  Almost bought a Bosch after borrowing a friend's then read about the Globe 5qt and thought that sounded good.   So in true American overkill I came across a deal I couldn't pass up.  I happened upon an old Hobart a200t, 20 qt mixer- for FREE.  So I took it. It works.  Have to get a bread hook but figure I will use this space as a diary of sorts and see how it goes.  Really just writing to myself since I came across this space but if anyone has suggestions, I welcome them.  I've been a 5qt baker for a while and have many questions but will dive into this new situation with my usual ignorance.  I seem to like learning the hard way.  

10 qt Hobert mixer, with attachments.  late model $500. + $90. shipping. looks to be in great condition.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Hobart-C100T-10qt-mixer-with-stand-used-great-shape_W0QQitemZ220543971224QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item335971ef98