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Sourdough Challah from "A Blessing of Bread"

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

Sourdough Challah from "A Blessing of Bread"

 

I'm rather fond of challah, but my wife isn't. Most challah is too rich and too sweet for her taste. The closer to brioche it tastes, the less she likes it. So, when I made “My Sourdough Challah” from Maggie Glezer's “A Blessing of Bread,” and both my wife and I loved it, I was delighted.

Of course, all challah was made with sourdough before the introduction of commercial yeast. Since then, according to Glezer, challah has tended to be made sweeter and richer. Sourdough challah has a “moister, creamier texture” and stays fresh longer that the yeasted variety. Glezer's version has a delightful sourdough tang which lends it an almost “sweet and sour” flavor. It is wonderful plain, as toast and as French toast.

 

Ingredients

The starter

Amount (gms)

Active firm sourdough starter

35

Warm water

80

Bread flour

135

 

 

The final dough

Warm water

60

Large Eggs

3 eggs + 1 egg for glazing the loaves.

Salt

8

Vegetable oil

55

Mild honey

65

Or Granulated sugar

60

Bread flour

400*

Sourdough starter

All of the above+

    * I added an additional 3 tablespoons or so of flour during mixing, because the dough seemed too wet. This may have been needed due to my using more starter than Glezer specifies. See below.

    + Glezer says to use only 200 gms of starter, but I used all of it (250 gms)

Procedures

  1. The night before baking, mix the starter and ferment it at room temperature for 8-12 hours.

  2. In the morning, in a large bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer, dissolve the starter in the water, then mix in the 3 eggs, salt, honey and oil until completely combined.

  3. Mix in all the bread flour until it forms a shaggy mass.

  4. Knead the dough on the bench or in a stand mixer until it is smooth and there is moderate gluten development. Add small amounts of water or flour to achieve the desired consistency. The dough should be quite firm.
  5. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl and cover it tightly. Ferment for about 2 hours. It may not rise much.

  6. To make two 1 pound loaves, divide the dough into two equal portions, and divide each portion into the number of pieces needed for the type of braiding you plan to do. (I did 3-strand braids.)

  7. Form each piece into a ball and allow them to rest, covered, for 10-20 minutes to relax the gluten.

  8. Form each piece into a strand about 14” long. (I like Glezer's technique for this. On an un-floured board, flatten each piece with the palm of your hand. Using a rolling pin, roll out each piece to about ¼ inch thickness. Then roll up each piece into a tight tube. Using the palms of your hands, lengthen each piece by rolling each tube back and forth on the bench with light pressure. Start with your hands together in the middle of the tube and, as you roll

    it, move your hands gradually outward. Taper the ends of the tube by rotating your wrists slightly so that the thumb side of your hand is slightly elevated, as you near the ends of the tube.)



  9. Braid the loaves.




  10. Place each loaf on parchment paper in half-sheet pans (I used a quarter-sheet pan for each loaf.) Cover well with plasti-crap or place the pans in a food grade plastic bag, and proof at room temperature until the loaves have tripled in volume. (Glezer says this will take “about 5 hours.” My kitchen was rather cool. I proofed for 6 hours.)




  11. Pre-heat the oven to 350ºF with the rack in the upper third of the oven.




  12. Brush each loaf with an egg lightly beaten with a pinch of salt.




  13. Optionally, sprinkle the loaves with sesame seeds and/or poppy seeds.




  14. Bake until done – 25-35 minutes for 1 pound loaves.




  15. Cool completely before slicing.





David


Submitted to YeastSpotting on SusanFNP's Wildyeastblog


 

Comments

LindyD's picture
LindyD

Lovely breads, David.  They literally glow with goodness.   I've never tasted Challah; yours look very inviting!

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

Challah was one of the breads I grew up on ... grew out on, also. Like most breads these days for most of us, the challah you can make at home is better than anything you can buy.

Glezer's book has something like 40 different challah recipes. It's amazing.

David

OldWoodenSpoon's picture
OldWoodenSpoon

get such distinct definition in the creases of your braids.  The rise in the highest parts, and the clean junctions at the crossing points of the braids is exceptionally clear.  I'd wager that the crumb is every bit as tender and moist as it looks too.  I have Challah on my holiday baking list, but I had not thought of trying it as sourdough.  Thanks for the inspiration.

OldWoodenSpoon

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

I'm still learning how to braid and how long to proof challot (the Hebrew plural of "challah") to get the best definition of the braiding in the baked loaf. I was pleased with this result. One definite necessity is braiding somewhat loosely.

I bet some of the real challah experts like Janknitz could add some tips based on their greater experience.

I do recommend this version. It's delicious.

David

Janknitz's picture
Janknitz

I haven't tried Maggie Glezer's version (just got the book for my birthday), but I've been making RLB's version from her website, for which she credits Maggie as the inspiration.  

It is delicious challah, not too sweet (my kids complain, but eat it just the same), and with a lovely texture.  I'll have to try this one to compare, though I really don't want any of the sourdough flavor to come through.  

Anyway, beautiful job, David!

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

You are one of my challah baking inspirations!

Is the RLB version to which you refer sourdough?

This one is sweet enough to my taste. If it were sweeter, my wife wouldn't like it. In fact, one of her comments when we tasted it just cooled was "It's almost like cake." BTW, the sourdough flavor does come through, but it doesn't dominate. Try it. You might like it.

David

SylviaH's picture
SylviaH

I love making and eating challah but I have not tried a sourdough one and yours looks delicious.  Lovely crumb and braiding, David!

Sylvia

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

Soudough challah is definitely different in flavor and, some, in texture, as well as proofing time, compared to yeasted versions. It also stays fresh tasting longer, as you would expect.

It seems to me that yeasted challot depend on the enrichments for their flavor. The sourdough version adds the complexity of flavor we expect from longer fermentations.

Do try it, and let us know how you like it.

David

Floydm's picture
Floydm

Beautiful, David.  Mind if I feature it for a bit?

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

If you want to feature it, I'd be honored.

David

txfarmer's picture
txfarmer

I am loving this book since I like the taste of challah, and LOVE all those fun shapes. Have been wanting to try this recipe, now I definitely will!

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

I've admired the challot you've blogged on. That Pumpkin Challah last month was (literally) stellar!

David

Paddyscake's picture
Paddyscake

What can I say?   They're beautiful!

Betty

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

David

ehanner's picture
ehanner

Beautiful as usual David. I've not made a sourdough version of this bread but the family I usually gift these to is now watching sugar intake due to medical concerns. This might be a welcome change. I'm guessing some of that honey is consumed during the longer ferment.

Eric

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

Glezer points out that, because of the effect of high sugar on yeast action, her sourdough challah has less sugar than the yeasted versions. I'm sure some of the sugar does get fermented, but the bread still has a sweet flavor.

David

RachelJ's picture
RachelJ

I have never heard of any challah or challot bread recipes using sourdough. But I have always wanted to make sourdough bread, as though it seems to be a hard bread to make, I have always been fascinated by it. We have our Shabbat/sabbath meal every Friday evening, and I make the challah for it. I'm trying to find the perfect recipe for making it.

I will be checking out more on this subject, as it intrigues me.

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

Hi, Rachel.

I'm a pretty inexperienced challah baker compared to you, but if you are looking for new recipes, do check out Glezer's "A Blessing of Bread." Actually, you should read it for the historical and cultural content, even if you never bake from it.

I would encourage you to try sourdough baking. It is not "harder" than baking with commercial yeast, once you have understood a few of the differences. Almost all the breads I bake are made with natural leavening. (I'm resisting a "hard sell," but if you have questions about sourdough baking, there is a wealth of information available here on TFL and elsewhere online, as well as in any number of excellent cook books.)

David

RachelJ's picture
RachelJ

I'll have to look about the book. I am finding so much out about bread. I've never really been able to bake my own bread - there's always a hole, or it goes flat, too gooey, burnt... I'm a disaster at bread baking. the only one I can really do is the challah, and sometimes that is a fop too.

I've been wanting to get the Bread Baker's Apprentice, but I've not been able to. I've always been fascinated by rustic breads as you don't see them all too often in the stores, and I've never really been to a bakery. Not to mention I love history and when I think of making rustic breads, I feel as if I've gone back in time. (if you know what I mean.) Its a piece of history right on the table.

The book looks interesting, but I probably won't be able to get it, due to certain circumstances. Unfortunately, as I would love to have it. I love Jewish things, and since learning all about Torah and the Jewish way of life, I'd be very happy to have this book. I'm assuming the author is Jewish? :)

Thanks again for your help. I'll be looking into doing sourdough breads.

RachelJ's picture
RachelJ

I just read that you said "I'm a pretty inexperienced challah baker compared to you," I thought you said you were more experienced! I'm sorry. No really I'm not. I still fop at it sometimes. But I am learning every time I make it, and I enjoy it. :) I hope you will make it more often, as I find braided bread is not only pretty, but rewarding. Glad you wife liked the one you made. :)

mrosen814's picture
mrosen814

looks stellar David!

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

David

Bixmeister's picture
Bixmeister

Beautiful loaves David.  You have the touch!

 

Bix

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

David

SylviaH's picture
SylviaH

David in step 4.  Step 2 and 3 the starter has already been added to the flour mixture?

Sylvia

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

Hmmm ... Step 4. is redundant, isn't it? I'll have to check the book, but I know I added the starter as described in Step 2.

David

SylviaH's picture
SylviaH

Thank you so very much for the inspiration and write-up, David!

Sylvia

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

Yours are so beautiful!

David

calliekoch's picture
calliekoch

I used Reinhart's recipe for transitional whole wheat Challah, which I found on one of my favorite cooking blogs: 101 Cookbooks

I had never made Challah before and this one came out nicely, making two good sized loaves. I also have not done a whole lot of braiding, but tried both a three-strand and a six-strand braid. They come out not too shabby in my humble opinion.

I would love to give this type of bread another try, but using sourdough someday.

Challah

Callie

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

Very impressive for your first time braiding!

David

CaptainBatard's picture
CaptainBatard

I also grew up on challah...your looks amazing....

I wanted to make a challah for a dinner x-mas day...perfect timing cause i have a stiff starter ready to go...I was going to make a celebration loaf...ala BBA...have you added raisins to this loaf? what do you think would be the max i could add...?I guess i have to start it tonight...thanks

Judd

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

I've not added raisins to challah, but I know there are those who like it that way. I would guess you could add somewhere around 20% of the flour weight in raisins, but maybe some one who makes it with raisins has personal experience to contribute.

David

Smita's picture
Smita

Many thanks for sharing! I started with an almost 100% hydration starter and used about 120 gms of white whole wheat flour (KAF). I made a loaf and four snails. Its a hot, humid day in NYC, and I only let it rise 3 hours. Not a fan of the egg glaze so I skipped it.

I am super pleased with the results - many thanks for sharing! The instructions were very helpful.

Challah

dickeytt's picture
dickeytt

Hi dmsnyder, I just wanted to thank you for this recipe, as my family loves Challah and I love sourdough baking, I decided to give this recipe a try.  I used a mixer to do my kneading and platted it in a 3 strand single loaf.  I let it prove for over 6 hours and baked in the oven for 50 mins with a turn and put upside down for the last 10 min.

This is a fantastic challah loaf and i will defiantly make this again, my only problem is with the plat definition, after the prove, it had merged into a long loaf with only a slight sign that it was platted, have you any suggestion on how to make the plates stand out more?

Again, thanks for the posting the recipe.

Richard

 

 

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

Hi, Richard.

I haven't made challah in quite some time and am certainly no expert. I believe a couple things that help to keep the braids well-defined is to braid loosely and to avoid over-proofing. 

I hope others with more expertise add their advice.

David

PetraR's picture
PetraR

Could I use my Rye Starter?

The Rye Starter is a 100% hydration but firm.

Or should I get my wheat starter out of the fridge and take some out to make a firm starter from it?

LOVE the look of your bread.

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

Hi, Petra.

I don't see why you couldn't use your rye starter  for the challah starter. The total percentage of rye would be small in the final dough. Let us know how it turns out.

David

PetraR's picture
PetraR

Oh wonderful David:)

I shall go on a quest.

Ramiro's picture
Ramiro

Hello! 
I was wondering how warm should be the water when you make the main dough? I've made this recipe once already but came out with a stiff dry Challah, so I was thinking maybe my room temperature was too low and the water that I put into the main dough was too cool... Could you please provide mor info on this subjects? TIA!!!

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

I don't recall the exact water temperature. When I say "warm water," I usually mean 85-90ºF. 

Within limits, a warmer or cooler ambient environment just means your bulk fermentation needs to be shorter or longer. Watch the dough, not the clock. These days, I use a proofing box with a thermostat to control fermentation temperature. I usually set it to 76-80ºF.

Challah dough is  a stiff, dry dough compared to most. Without handling your dough, I can't say whether the consistency was appropriate.

I hope this helps.

David

Ramiro's picture
Ramiro

Thank you very much, David!! 


your reply has been really helpful! i will give this a new try as soon as I get a strong starter! i did liked the recipe very much, only I watched the colock and not the dough, conctrary to what you advise!! I don't have a proofing box or any of the sort, but I believe I can make it either way!


Thanks again and will update if I succeed!!! otherwise, I'll keep practising!!

Ramiro

Ramiro's picture
Ramiro

This is the Challa i did the other day with your recipe!!! 
awesome bread indeed!! I wanted to bake it with yeast water but it failed, so I used sourdough instead! I don't love the tangyness of SD in this particular bread but it had a LOT of acceptance between my friends!! First big success with Challah!! Thank you!!!!!

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

I am glad you achieved success.

Your crumb looks like you used whole grain flour. Is it just the lighting, or did you make a sourdough whole wheat challah?

The flavor of this bread is very different from non-sourdough challot - sweet and sour. I rather liked it. My wife didn't. That's probably why it has been so long since I made it.

David

Ramiro's picture
Ramiro

It was a big satisfaction indeed! Thank you <3 

I have an issue with whether to call my flour whole wheat or not! It's a flour from a friend's mill and it says "harina 000 entera" Whole bread flour I think would be the translation to English...  but it's supposed to be white flour. It has little bran in it but the color of the flour is a bit greyish... So... Could say it's a kinda-whole-wheat Challah!

I never tried non-sourdough challah! I remember in my first attempt i did it with yeast water and the flavor was a lot nicer to my palate! I am looking forwards to having a good YW so I can repeat this recipe! <3 

Ramiro

IgorL's picture
IgorL

I don't know if you read these messages often enough, but in case you do:

I always wanted to make a challah, but didn't like all those commercial yeast recipes.  This year I was determined to find a good sourdough recipe, and browsing through the TFL site I found this recipe TWICE - from you, and from Zolablue, so I decided to give it a try.  I was going to make it tomorrow, but I just realized that even if I start at 8am, it won't be ready to be cut until around 7pm, which is a bit too late for Rosh Hashanah dinner (1 hr min mixing/resting/braiding, 2 hrs bulk proof, 5 hrs final proof, 30+ min baking, 2 hrs cooling = ~11 hrs).

Have you attempted a variation of this recipe when it can be started the evening before and then finished the following day?  I wonder if, for instance, instead of warm water for the initial mix I could use regular cool water, and then let it bulk-proof in a fridge overnight, instead of for 2 hrs on the counter.  I have no idea how to "translate" 2 hrs on the counter @ 70F into X hrs @ 40F.

Anyway, if you have any thoughts on this, I'd love to hear them, and L'Shanah Tovah!

 

IgorL's picture
IgorL

This recipe calls for a pretty low hydration starter (looks like around 60% vs "regular" 100% hydration starter).  What is the reason for this?  Anyone knows why can't 100% hydration starter be used, with appropriate decrease in the amount of water in the recipe? 

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

L'shanah tovah!

I will address the questions in both of your replies here. First, I often ferment my levain the day before mixing the final dough and refrigerate it overnight, or even for 2 days. The main effect is that your bread may be a little more sour.

There is not an immense difference in the final outcome using a liquid versus a firm levain - a bit more extensibility with the liquid levain. Slight differences in flavor profile. 

I have never retarded a braided challah. My gut feeling is that it wouldn't be a great idea.

Happy baking! Happy New Year!

David

 

IgorL's picture
IgorL

Not sure why I missed your response earlier; perhaps the notification e-mail never came... Anyway - yes, you are right, overnight cold-retarding was not a good idea. :)  The challah was edible, but not very fluffy, and tasted just like some sweet white bread, not a challah.

I made this recipe once again a week ago, following the process as designed, but this time around my dough was too tacky, even though I added some extra flour during kneading, trying to compensate.  It rose better during final ferment, but the braids almost joined together - probably once again because the dough was too wet.  The baked challah also had a bit strange taste, which I could not put my finger on, until it hit me - honey!  I used honey instead of sugar, and I thought it would make it better, but it appears that all that extra wetness and stickiness affects the dough consistency, as well as taste.  Well, hopefully lesson learned, and the next one will be with sugar.  Too bad my wife and I enjoy the bread I usually bake with various white and whole grain flours and various seeds etc. too much, so there isn't often a chance for me to bake something else as well.

Thanks again for taking the time to respond!

RuthTalksFood's picture
RuthTalksFood

I've tried making sourdough challah before with little success. This recipe worked for me. It was more dense and the braids weren't as well defined as the loaves made with commercial yeast, but the flavor was more complex. We ate it warm and couldn't stop slicing off chunks. I tried to attach pictures, but couldn't quite figure out how. Anyway, will be blogging about it soon and will definitely make it again. 

IgorL's picture
IgorL

Not sure if it's due to a different type of yeast, or something else in the overall process.  They do make wonderful French toasts though, as they don't fall apart as easily as fluffy store-bought challas!

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