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Poolish Calzones and Yeast Water Italian Bread

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dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

Poolish Calzones and Yeast Water Italian Bread

It seems ever since Sylvia posted her fine calzones we haven’t had pizza night but have calzone night instead.  We like both my daughter loves seasoned ricotta and that is a calzone ingredient if there ever was one.  You could say that our calzones are a cross between lasagna and pizza.

 

We made a simple poolish white dough sized for 4 calzones loosely based on our favorite pizza dough that is really a less hydrated Focaccia Romana, at 72% hydration, that has fresh rosemary and sun dried tomato in it.  Then I thought some friends of my daughter might show up as they can when something like home made pizza or calzones are on tap.

 

So we quickly whipped up another version of pizza dough, this time a yeast water one since we haven’t used the poor thing in weeks and it was pretty useless just sitting in the fridge doing nothing.  We used whole; rye, spelt and wheat in the YW levain to give it some extra flavor at 17% whole grains, upped the hydration 4% to account for the whole grains and subbed basil for the fresh herb instead of using the rosemary.

 

Then we found out that the other girls wouldn’t be coming after all and we had double the calzone dough needed for the 3 of us.  So I shaped the 2nd yeast water version into a boule, put it in a rice floured basket and chucked it into the fridge for a 15 hour retard even though it was nearly fully proofed for calzones.

 

We are starting a test on doing less slap and folds (1) set at 5 minutes instead of our usual (3) sets totaling 10 minutes and increasing from 3 to 4 sets of stretch and folds and increasing the time between them from 20 minutes to 30 minutes to see if we could tell a difference in the crumb. 

 

The poolish was a 12 hour counter affair before it was incorporated into the rest of the mix, the dough developed, the herbs and sun dried tomato added on the first S&F and then  fermented for 30 minutes before being bulk retarded in the fridge for 24 hours.

 

When the poolish dough went into the fridge we started the YW levain which also took 12 hours on the counter, overnight this time.  The next morning we developed the dough with slap and folds and incorporated the herbs and sun dried tomato the same as before but, instead of bulk retarding this time, we let the dough bulk ferment on the counter to hopefully let it catch up to the poolish dough in the fridge now going on 18 hours.

 

We took the fully risen poolish dough out of the fridge 3 hours before we wanted to use it to let it get to room temperature.   In 3 hours both batches if dough were ready to go and fully proofed.  This is when we shaped the YW one, put it in a a basket and retarded it.

 

The calzone filling included the seasoned ricotta with an egg mixed into it and the other 4 cheeses included; Monterrey jack, mozzarella, pecorino and parmesan.  Hot Italian sausage and pepperoni were the meats.  The veggies included caramelized crimini and button mushrooms, caramelized red onions, red bell pepper and green onion.

 

The calzones were baked at 425 F for 10 minutes with steam and then at 425 F convection for 15 minutes until browned and bubbly.   There were even some small blisters on the folded edges.

 

Last night’s calzone dinner was delicious and the huge house salad was hardly touched as each of us went for maximum calzone intake.  We checked the YW bread in eh fridge before going to bed last night after it had been in he fridge for 6 hours and it looked like it was 100% proofed – not a good sign for dough that had another 8 hours to go.

 

The calzone even looks good frozen!

Sure enough this morning the dough had given up 15% of its fridge proof the night before and was back to the 85% mark.   I figured the worse case it would continue to fall in the oven and bake up like a Frisbee.   So we got Big Old Betsy fired up to 525 F as fast as possible and put (2) of Sylvia’s steaming pans on the bottom rack at the 475 F mark.

 

We got the cold dough out of the fridge, dumped it out of the basket onto parchment on a peel.  Lucy was heartened that when we scored it with a single edge razor the dough didn’t deflate further.  We slid it onto the bottom stone, threw 1/2 C of water onto the bottom of the oven for instant steam, closed the door and turned the oven down to 475 F for 12 minutes of steam.

 

When we pulled Sylvia’s steaming pans out we switched to convection at 425 F and noticed that the bread had surprisingly sprung and bloomed well.   But the huge blisters were also a welcome sign that this bread had resurrected itself from near collapse and death.  It hit 210 F before we could catch it at the 26 minute mark and by then the bread was a pleasant brown.

 

Let's not forget breakfast.

After cooling we sliced it t find the crust was still a little crisp and the crumb very open, soft and still moist.  It tasted like a really good poolish baguette that had been retarded - possibly a little sweeter?  My daughter loved it and the girls who prefer a non sour bread will eat this up in no time.  I wish it was a SD!  Can’t taste the basil at all but every once and while you get a taste of sun dried tomato.

 

A hamburger slider dinner.

This is a very nice bread if you like white non sourdough bread and makes due as fine sandwich bread that the kids will love for their lunches.  I have to say I really liked today’s lunch sandwich of Monterrey jack cheese, some mayo and peppered Italian salami.

 

Donlt overlook a great salad even if you don't eat it with calzones like you shouls!

The sides included a salad with cherry tomatoes, a knob of grilled salmon and a slice of brie. A half a pear and Minneola, half an avocado, red pepper, carrot elongated coins, a slice f fresh jalapeno, a couple of strawberries and small pile of tortilla chips with Dabrownman’s chili, tomatillo, salsa verde and killer habanero hot sauce.  All of it was just delicious.  

 

My wife's triple birthday cake.  One a raspberry and white chocolate cream delight, a traditional carrot cake and the last a triple death by chocolate chunk.  Delicious!

If you or yours want fine tasting 80% white sandwich bread that isn’t sour, you can’t go wrong with this one.

Formulas

Poolish White Calzone - Makes 4 Large Calzones

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Poolish with a Pinch of ADY

Build 1

Total

%

AP

75

75

16.67%

Water

75

75

16.67%

Total

150

150

33.33%

 

 

 

 

Poolish Totals

 

%

 

Whole Multigrain Flour

75

16.67%

 

Water

75

16.67%

 

Hydration

100.00%

 

 

Levain % of Total Flour & Water

19.35%

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dough Flour

 

%

 

AP

375

83.33%

 

Salt

9

2.00%

 

Olive Oil

10

2.22%

 

Dough Hydration

66.67%

 

 

 

 

 

 

Total Flour

450

 

 

Water

325

 

 

Hydration with Levain

72.22%

 

 

Total Weight

794

 

 

2 tsp of sun dried tomato

 

 

 

1 tsp of fresh rosemary

 

 

 

 

 

Yeast Water Italian Bread

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yeast Water levain

Build 1

Total

%

Whole Rye

25

25

5.88%

Whole Wheat

25

25

5.88%

Whole Spelt

25

25

5.88%

Yeast Water

75

75

17.65%

Total

150

150

35.29%

 

 

 

 

Levain Totals

 

%

 

Whole; Rye, Spelt and Wheat

75

17.65%

 

Water

75

17.65%

 

Hydration

100.00%

 

 

Levain % of Total Flour & Water

20.00%

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dough Flour

 

%

 

AP

350

82.35%

 

Dough Flour

350

82.35%

 

Salt

8

1.88%

 

Olive Oil

10

2.35%

 

Dough Hydration

71.43%

 

 

 

 

 

 

Total Flour

425

 

 

Water

325

 

 

Hydration with Levain

76.47%

 

 

Whole Grain  %

17.65%

 

 

Total Weight

768

 

 

2 tsp of sun dried tomato

 

 

 

1 tsp of fresh basil

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

Comments

isand66's picture
isand66

Another ridiculously evil looking display of food from the master!  Those calzones look fantastic and must have tasted as good as they look.

That simple by your standards YW bread looks great too.

Happy Birthday to your wife.  I'm sure she must have enjoyed her triple threat cake.

I've got another version of my date SD bread I'm working on.  Hopefully this version will be even better than the last.

Happy Baking DA.

Ian

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

even the hamburgers with the Aunt Hattie's buns ( didn't have time to make any SD or YW ones so store bought yeast ones are hard to beat.

The YW bread is a big hit with the girls.  They have died and gone to heaven without a sour puss:-)  YW bread springs like no other - even after it has collapsed under proof - amazing!  A great addition to any high percent whole grain bread where you want to open the crumb too.

For my birthday my wife made a 12" diameter Toll House Cookie in a pizza pan for my 'cake'.  It was delicious and I nearly ate the whole thing.

Look forward to you next post Ian - Lucy says Hi to Max and Lexi ....and the other 5 feline apprentices too!

Happy Baking

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

That's an extraordinary display, dvm! And everything looks wonderful! 

David

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

Liked the YW bread so much Lucy whipped up a similar SD recipe for this Friday's bake - just to see if we could get the th same holes with better flavor.  Don't know If I can get the sourdough to collapse in the fridge or have it recover as well either :-)

Happy baking David - hope your retirement goes well and you have more time in your hands to bake and experiment with recipes.

Happy Baking David

Mebake's picture
Mebake

This looks really delicious, DA! Nice save! I've had the same thing happen to me when i baked my overproofed rye -pain au levain; the steam within the dough helped push the bread. 

Happy birthday to you wife. Watch that triple chocolate :)

Calzones look great too, and so is everything shown above.

Khalid

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

YW recovery under steam.  Usually, if it were SD, it would have crashed or just not done anything at all and ended up like a Frisbee which is the usual over proof shape.  YW is different.  Sometimes it can have explosive spring is baked at 85% proof like a SD.  Better t bake it at 100% proof from my experience.

Glad you liked the post.  I think I am getting my arms around what causes blisters too - it's all due to the BOBF - The Big Old Blister Fairy!

Happy baking Khalid - we look forward to your next post.

Mebake's picture
Mebake

I ,too, had significant blisters on my over proofed 24 hr refrigerated shaped loaves. What i know for sure is that extended cold fermentation does cause crust blistering. However, is this limited to sd? Apparently not from your post above. Under what other environments is it induced? High moisture content of dough? Steam amount in oven, baking temperatures? % of prefermented flour? Or all. 

Khalid

 

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

but with SD instead of YW, a couple points more hydration up to 78%.  There is a combination of factors that cause blistering and I have been working on it for a while and was becoming frustrated at not being able to pinpoint the cause as easy as I thought it would be.  Then, I discovered the BOBF which might turn out to be the missing link:-)