The Fresh Loaf

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100 % Whole Multi Grain, Yeast Water & Sourdough Bagels

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

100 % Whole Multi Grain, Yeast Water & Sourdough Bagels

These aren’t your normal whole grain bagels - not that whole grain ones are at all normal much less made with SD and YW.  What we did was take the 25% of the sifted out portion of home milled grains and used that to feed the SD starter where the liquid for it was yeast water.

 

We love using the sifted out bran and endosperm portion to feed the levain.  This gets all the hard bits in the wet for the longest period of time to soften them especially if you retard the levain after the 2nd and 3rd feeding for 24 hours each time like we did.

 

When mixed back into white dough flour at a 25% portion this turns the dough into a 100% whole grain one and makes the bagels very tasty indeed.   In this case the whole grains were rye, wheat, farro, kamut and spelt.   So we got a nice mix grains which also makes for great flavor.

 

The YW has a tendency to mute the sour flavor somewhat, so the retarding of the levain twice and the dough for 20 hours was an attempt to get the sour back.   It was somewhat successful but the YW also makes the crumb moist and soft too.

 

The initial hydration was 58% but we kept adding more water to the mix just to get it to the point where we could knead it for 20 minutes .  If we were making bread with this flour mix, we would be at 85% -90% hydration using fresh milled flour.  So the 63% hydration of this dough is misleading.  In reality it was the hardest bagel dough to knead of all time and we have baked plenty of bagels over the years to know.  It felt like 50% hydration

 

We shaped the bagels two ways; the over the knuckle and roll to seal and the poke a hole in the center of the ball and enlarge methods.  We also boiled the 3 batches of 3 bagels each for different times, 30 seconds, 60 seconds and 90 seconds to see if there was a difference.  The (9) bagels weighed in at 108 each and we made a dough ball for the float test with the left over.

 

We also had several toppings, white sesame, black sesame, W&B sesame, white poppy, black poppy, white and black poppy and then made 3 all in that included the sesame and poppy varieties as well as oregano, basil, caraway and kosher salt.

 

Normally the mini oven would put some nice large blisters in the bagels using (2) of Sylvia’s steaming cups but this time they were very small ones instead - probably due to the 100% whole grains and lower relative hydration than our usual 58% hydration of the 30% whole grain bagels.  Einstein was right - its all relative and probably why he is famous for cake like non NY Style bagels today.

 

The dough ball floated to the top of water glass in a split second so the cold proof worked well indeed.  The boiling liquid was a dark tea color of barley malt syrup and a teaspoon of baking soda.  The bagels were briefly put flat side down on the towel to remove excess liquid from that side before being overturned into the seeds. They were then placed flat side down onto parchment that lined the vented top cover of the mini’s broiler pan.

 

The steaming cups were added and the assembly was placed into the mini at 500 F with a ¼ C splash of water into the bottom of the oven as the door was closed.  After 2 minutes, the temperature was turned down to 475 F for an additional 6 minutes of steam.  After 8 minutes of steam the cups were removed and the temperature turned down to 425 F, convection this time. After 8 more minutes, 16 total, that bagels were done and they were removed to the cooling rack.

 

Tzitzel grilled cheese sandwich with all the normal fixings on bagel shaping day.

These bagels browned up nicely and no difference could be detected between those that took a longer bath than others.  Small holes but they were very crispy with glass like crust  - just what we want.  The crumb was more open than we expected and it was also very soft, moist and chewy too – another plus.

 

How did those truffles get in there?

These are such awful nice bagels you forget they are 100% whole grain and healthy too.   They are our new favorite bagel and by far and away everything we are looking for in that elusive NY bagel.

 

We had them toasted with a schmear of CC and the dough ball was buttered and red raspberry jammed – delicious.  Can’t wait for Saturday’s smoked salmon dressing the top of these fine bagels – a topping we got for last Saturday and our 26th anniversary – but forgot it when I realized there wasn’t a decent bagel in the house.

Who took a bite out of that smoked salmon and cream cheese bagel?  Thank goodness the bacon, brie, butter, minneola marmalade and egg half is still untouched!  Had to wait for Saturday brunch to taste these bagels properly:-)

Formula

 

Build 1

Build 2

 Build 3

Total

%

Multi-grain SD Starter

16

0

0

16

2.85%

AP

 

 

50

50

8.90%

 25% Sifted Rye Spelt & Wheat Bran

80

50

0

130

23.13%

Total

96

50

50

196

34.88%

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rye & WW Levain

 

%

 

 

 

Flour

138

24.56%

 

 

 

Water

138

24.56%

 

 

 

Hydration

100.00%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Levain % of Total

33.27%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dough Flour

 

%

 

 

 

AP

424

75.44%

 

 

 

Dough Flour

424

75.44%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salt

10

1.78%

 

 

 

Water

220

39.15%

 

 

 

Dough Hydration

51.89%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Total Flour

562

100.00%

 

 

 

Water

358

63.70%

 

 

 

T. Dough Hydration

63.70%

 

 

 

 

% Whole Grain Flour

100.00%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hydration w/ Adds

63.12%

 

 

 

 

Total Weight

980

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Add - Ins

 

%

 

 

 

VW Gluten

15

2.67%

 

 

 

Red Malt

5

0.89%

 

 

 

White Malt

5

0.89%

 

 

 

Barley Malt Syrup                            25  

Total

50

8.90%

 

 

 

Comments

pmccool's picture
pmccool

Those are some fine looking bagels!  And with that flour blend, they have to taste wonderful, too.  I like the look of the mini-blisters.

Paul

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

These are the best bagels I have ever made.  Crystal brown crust, chewy center,  blisters and a taste that is by far the best yet.   I want to do a a home milled multi-rain where the 25% is sifted out and fed to the levain and then back into the 75% instead of the AP in this bake.  This should take the cake but it might need to be 72 hydration just to knead it      :-)

Happy baking Paul

evonlim's picture
evonlim

are those for sale?? i like to get some ! have not seen such attractive bagels. you can say it again brown crust chewy center runs in my mind as i was staring at those bagels.. it's a winner, congratulation. thank you for sharing. this i must try, indeed :)

cheers,

evon

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

Evon.  We are proud of them.  My apprentice has been wanting to do a whole grain bagelnfo some time and she fimnally got her way - just like always.  If you like NY style bagels you will like these adn they taste very food too,

Happy baking Evon

Isand66's picture
Isand66

Oye Vey!  What fabulous looking bagels!  These look perfect and must taste fantastic!  Wish I had one or two about now.  Nice job DA.

Regards

Ian

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

this week end.  We make bagels often and these are some fine ones.  No big blisters like normal but the crust is just like glass anyway.  You being a New York / Long Islander would appreciate them.

Happy baking Ian

Mebake's picture
Mebake

You have some talent with bagels.. and those exotic bagels are fantastic.

-Khalid

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

happened to the post  but I was saying that  the hard part about bagels is kneading them since my KA is totally useless and would blow up.  The other keys are long cold retard, a not too long hot bath and then mega steam.  These are even healthy too!  Thanks for the compliment Khalid and

Happy baking

hanseata's picture
hanseata

Indeed, how did those truffles get there? Just to taunt your poor readers!

Great looking bagels, and I'm sure they tasted very good. I prefer them with a crispier crust, too.

Happy Baking,

Karin

 

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

pecan and Grand Marnier variety and some plain cocoa and brandy ones,  We keep getting closer to the bagels we like the best - starting with Stan Ginsber's SD Bagel recipe.  I'm back to his hydration or less but up to 20 hours on the retard.  Lucy loves the dough ball test.  Nothing like getting up in the morning to see if hope floats :-)

Glad you like the bagels Karin.  We are doing a bread tomorrow that you will like as we were smitten with more seeds again in a whole multigrain bread of course.

Happy Baking. 

bakingbadly's picture
bakingbadly

Awesome post, Dab! I was wondering how different boiling durations affected bagel dough and I found your results fascinating. Haven't attempted whole grain bagels either but after reading your post I'm very tempted.

Bookmarked for future reference!

Zita

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

the difference in the outcome with different boil times but, as you can see, they were all pretty much the same.  These are very tasty and I'm looking forward t tomorrow's breakfast with smoked salmon and all the fixings.   I was surprised how well the whole grain bagels came out  so will make then this way until my apprentice gets a better idea.

Glad you liked them and happy baking Zita!

Song Of The Baker's picture
Song Of The Baker

I envy anyone who can make homemade bagels...I envy even more someone who can make healthy ones!  These look so good...all kinds of spreads and toppings come to mind.  I honestly don't know how you find the time to bake up so much amazing-ness!  Retired or not, this is a full time endeavor and it sure does surprise me.  I don't know you but I can picture a very hard working man in his past work life.

Happy baking and thanks for tempting me with these beauts!

John

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

about baking bread is that there is 15 minutes of work followed by hours of doing something else.  It can take 3 days to make a loaf of bread but you might only have 2 hours of actually dong something besides waiting to do something.  This is a lot more fun than working for a living,  I used to leave home on Monday morning early to go to the airport and then in wouldn't come home for a couple of weeks.  This went on for a couple three decades plus some.

While,my wife and daughter lived in Gilbert I had houses in Chicago, LA, Denver, Albuquerque, Miami, Baltimore, Portland, Richmond depending on what couple of years it happened to be.   I loved it though and wouldn't change a thing.  When I got married i promised my wife that I wouldn't work overseas anymore but I didn't say I would be home either.  Bread baking comparatively is a lot of doing nothing:-)

We like these bagels and I can't wait for tomorrow morning, putting all the toppings on them and some smoked fish.  Been looking forward to it all week.

Glad you like the bagels John and happy baking this weekend.

Song Of The Baker's picture
Song Of The Baker

I thought you said one time that you used to work in a warehouse or something?  Sounds like an interesting career there with all the travel!

No baking for me this weekend.  Visiting the birthplace of my bread baking revelation.  The Okanagan region of B.C.  My fave place in summer time.  Vineyards, lakes, food, sun, etc.  AZ I think is either tied, or a close second for sure.

John

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

weekend John.