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Big open crumb structure problems

csimmo64's picture
csimmo64

Big open crumb structure problems

I've been practicing baguettes, and I can only achieve a "medium" crumb structure in my ciabattas and baguettes. 

I believe the technique for me to learn may lie in the shaping department. I found myself shaping too gently on my previous attempts, and the baguettes came out uneven and flat. I did a little bit of different shaping today and got a rather closed crumb structure. I was a little more rough, but I was trying to be careful not to deflate the dough too much. However, they came out with a great look!

I've been using a recipe such as this:
33% pre-fermented flour

High Gluten Flour 100% 
Water                  66% 
salt                       2%
Yeast                  1.1% [I use instant, so I do 1/3rd of this number]

Mixer: 20qt Spiral Mixer
Mixing: 3 minutes on speed 1, 3 minutes on speed 2
Bulk Fermentation: 2 hours with 1 fold
Pre-shape followed by 30 minute rest
Shape gently into baguettes
Final Proof: 1 to 1.5 hours at 75 degrees
Bake: Steam, open vents at 8 minute mark, 460 degree oven

 

The way I've been shaping is that i roll the squares of dough into a hot-dog shaped log. Rest 30 minutes, re-shape by folding from top to bottom gently and seal the seam, then stretch gently. 

 

Whats going wrong? Where can I learn what I'm doing wrong? I think that I just need to work under someone who makes superior bread. Thanks for any advice!

 

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

Hi, csimmo64.

I assume the pre-ferment you are using is a poolish and that the hydration of 66% is for the total dough.

I see you are using "high gluten flour." Generally, you will get a more "classic," i.e., Parisian-type baguette with flour of 10-12% protein. High-gluten flour will make your dough stiffer (keeping hydration constant). The crust will be thicker and more crunchy, as opposed to thin and crackly. The loaves will tend to be higher, but I think the crumb will be less open. Try this formula with AP flour.

I don't know what to call your mixing. It's in between a "short mix" and an "improved mix." If you keep the mixing as it is, I would think you would want to do at least 2 and maybe 3 folds during bulk fermentation to strengthen the dough.

I'm not sure about your fermentation and proofing times. They are going to be influenced by your dough temperature at the end of mixing, which is influenced by ingredient and ambient temperatures. I assume you are judging the dough's readiness by feel, not by the clock. Just looking at the times, proofing looks a bit long. Are you getting good oven spring and blooming of your cuts?

I do more folds than you when doing the final shaping (FWIW).

* De-gas gently.

* Fold top to middle and seal. Rotate dough 180º.

* Fold top to middle and seal.

* Fold top all the way over the loaf and seal.

Roll out to desired length.

For me, the key lesson was how to be gentle in stretching the dough during shaping but firm in sealing the seams. I didn't really "get it" until I had done it many times under a master's critical eye. (Actually, a mistress, as it happens.)

I hope some of this helps.

David

csimmo64's picture
csimmo64

Thanks for you advice! As for the recipe and procedure, I am directly following Jeffery Hamelman's Poolish Baguette recipe from his Breads book. 

I use his mixing times as a guideline and I haven't been able to achieve what I was looking for in my bread. 

Last night I read his book over again looking for hints for an open, creamy crumb and stumbled upon a few noteworthy tips. 

Just this morning I mixed a straight dough baguette recipe, 66% hydration, .3% instant yeast utilizing the autolyse method. I let it rest 30 minutes and then continued to give it folds every 30 minutes until now. It was started at 7am and its now 10am and the pre-shaped baguettes already look much better than yesterday. I allowed for 2 and a half hours fermentation. 

Is there any key to knowing which flours are good for what types of bread and what favors the right results? Along with that information, is there any type of knowledge about how much bulk fermentation is needed with 1% yeast? I aim for 75 degrees on dough temperature and I am still adjusting my proof box to hit and maintain 75-78 degrees.

No, I wasn't getting good open cuts before, but I was getting a decent oven spring. I believe my steamer in my deck oven isn't getting the proper steam into the oven, so I've also been throwing some ice cubes in with it. I also don't have a lame at the moment, but we are working at getting a new one to replace the one I lost. 

 

By the way what is an "improved mix"? Thanks for all of your advice, I'll let you know how the ones today turn out!

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

In general, I use AP flour (11.7% protein) for baguettes and other lean doughs. I use bread flour (12.7% protein) for breads with significant amounts of whole grains or rye or seeds. High-gluten flour is reserved for highly enriched doughs and bagels. 

"Improved mix" refers to a mixing method intermediate between "short mix" (3-5 minutes on Speed 1 with further gluten development via 3-4 stretch and folds during bulk fermentation, which is longer) and "intensive mix" (3 minutes on Speed 1 and >12 minutes on Speed 2) with shorter bulk fermentation and no folds).

Hamelman does not use this terminology. The most extensive discussion I've seen is in Michel Suas' "Advanced Bread and Pastry," which I highly recommend, since you appear to be a professional baker (by the equipment you use, at least).

As you say, good steaming is very important for baguette baking, and steaming problems may account for your crumb problem significantly.

David

csimmo64's picture
csimmo64

Thank you! I am a professional baker although I feel as more of a novice! Any recommendations for flour books? I feel that our bakery may turn back into what we used to be, a bread company that mills their own flours in house. I need to do massive research before undertaking that!

 

I wonder what protein our Patent / Bread flour is at.. hmm. I find it difficult to find this information because our purveyors arent knowledgeable with that and our brands change rapidly. I don't want that to happen in the future though.

 

Problem is: we are in north east indiana and can't find much in the way of bulk quantity and high quality flour at affordable prices for retail.

csimmo64's picture
csimmo64

Got great volume this time! I don't think that my oven steamer is working correctly as I thought. After a full steam it ran out of juice and it looked as though the baguettes had halted rising nearly 2 minutes into the bake. I threw about 2 cups of ice into the opposite side of the oven, came back 6 minutes later and they had truly gotten their spring on. Narrowing down the problems, 1 step at a time. Thanks for the help. Maybe I'll post pictures later if I can find a way to get them off of my phone and onto the computer