Sam Fromartz's Baguettes
Larry (Wally) posted his version of Sam Fromartz's award winning Baguette's last week and after reading the post, I thought I would try it again. First I copied Larry's recipe and method and then I went to look at the original write up by the author/baker. There were a few small things that separate the two methods but the formula I think was right on. When you look at Sam's images of his breads, well they are stunning. The crust has just the right amount of color and spring. They look crisp and well, just perfect.
I'm not new to baguettes but I am always willing to bow to a master when it comes to improving the art form. Baguettes are 90% technique and 10% formula, I'm certain. So my intention here is to read closely the instructions Sam has left for us to understand. No detail is too small.
I made 2 batches yesterday, a 500g and a 1000 g mix. I thought I would bake the first 2 pairs of 250g baguettes, followed by the next 4, 2 at a time. This gives me a chance to evaluate the process and make some changes along the way. I was taken at how hard it was for me to keep from what I normally do and make a change no matter how small. Proofing in the couche cloth seam side down for example was a challenge for me. I had to re think my handling process and make a change.
In the end I only have one item that I didn't remember to change over to Sam's method and I think it will make a big difference in a positive way. That would be moving my stone up from the second shelf to the middle shelf. A seemingly small thing but the breads will get a more intense heat and brown up there I'm certain.
We taste tested this afternoon and the verdict is the bread is exceptionally tasty and has a nice mouth feel and after taste. The aroma is very original to me from my long ago memory of a wonderful baguette in Paris.
What I have learned from this exercise so far is that with a baguette, everything matters. There are many ways to make a good loaf, but, far fewer ways to make a really great loaf. I need to raise the bar and focus on the smallest details to make them as good as I possably can. Soon enough.
Eric
Comments
Lovely, translucent crumb. nice scoring.
David
I'm still struggling with the cuts. I think I'm going backwards.
Eric
Nice photos and what a crumb shot.
Greg R
Thanks Greg.
Eric
I'm pleased that your reaction to Sam's recipe was the same as mine. And you are so right - when dealing with a bread composed of just a few basic ingredients, the small things are really the large things in determining the outcome.
I daily bake about 100 poolish baguettes, and I love the nutty flavor they have that you just don't find in a straight dough baguette. But everytime I bake Fromartz's recipe at home I find myself torn in my affections.
The crumb shot is mouth-watering!
Larry
The little things have such a large effect in the end. These are nice but compared to Sam's, they pale. I have another batch that has been sitting in the fridge for 3 days now. I am going to continue to tune my procedure until I get it right.
Eric
The crumb does look absolutely delicious. I copied the recipe and have it on my list!!
Sylvia
Thanks for your kind words. I really like the crispy crust.
Eric
Beautiful.
Thanks Floyd!
How does one get that nice shine on crusty bread? Mine is always so dull.
The crust gets that shine from a good steaming and I think is helped by the fact that they proofed seam side down. The crust didn't get as dry and skinned as usual when proofing against the couche. I'm still learning myself on this.
Eric
Oh - those are beautful loaves, wish mine can be half as good. You have absolutely taken into account every detail here. They look so good!
I appreciate your kind words. You can do these too.
Eric
Eric - I will get there, definitely, one day......when I get myself a baking stone...need a Easter Bunny to send me one in China....:)
great baguettes! I need to try this recipe out - had such a hard time with such a wet dough. Love your crust!
Happy baking!
Wow! I'm flattered that my recipe has been tried by so many able bakers.
But I notice a correction I need to make on rising in a couche.
The loaves only go seam side DOWN when you are rising with parchment, with rolled up towels underneath. That way you pull out the towels and the parchment can be slid into oven without disturbing the loaves.
However, I use a linen couche and I always put seam side UP. When I'm ready to bake, I flatten out the couche by pulling each end. Then, holding each side of the cloth, I lift it up to gently roll the baguette onto parchment. In the past, I used to lift the loaf with my hands but fingers always indent the loaf that way, so I went to the rolling method.
The real way of course is to use a flipper board, you roll the baguette onto a thin narrow board (4x25 inch or so) and from there onto the parchment or loader in a professional bakery. You can buy a flipper, but I just didn't want to buy anything else, so just do this roll right onto the parchment instead. The loaves come out fine.
Once on the parchment, use a plastic bench scraper to even them out if they are bit bent (avoid using your fingers). You can also gently stretch them if you like, but be careful not to depress the loaf while doing so. A gentle pull works.
I dust them with flour if necessary. Sometimes, if they are seam side up on the couche, the underside gets enough flour which stays on when you roll it over so more flour is unnecessary.
Then I slash it and move it to the oven. Slashing is difficult -- as many have mentioned. I didn't get it right until I did about 200 loaves one day at a bakery. By the end of the session, I was comfortable with the technique. You must hold the blade at an angle and slash quickly but with control. Don't hestitate, don't do it slowly. Firm and quick and sure.
One more note: I made baguettes with a poolish today. They had a very nice taste and open crumb, but they didn't have the chewniess or depth or color of my other recipe. But they are a keeper and I will make them again.
Thanks Sam. I was hoping you would chime in here. The explanation of the seam side up makes sense and I was curious about the change from what has been normal. I think if I move the stone up one shelf level to the middle I'll get a better color. Yours looks fantastic. These are good breads.
I like the Poolish variety also but the flexibility of being able to keep the dough a few days at the ready is nice.
Thanks for your comments.
Eric