The Fresh Loaf

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golgi70

Officially done with 20 markets out of maybe 24 that have ensued since I started this fiasco.  Next week would be the last week and maybe worth celebration but for the first time ever they've decided to add a Winter Market.  So there is no end to this everlasting spoof.  I'll probably take a short hiatus with the holiday's and miss some markets and get back on the weekly market come the new year.  

So I got some local dried mission figs last week with this weeks bread in mind.  I did  fig n fennel back towards the beginning but I didn't even look at my notes and made up another formula.  Just compared and the previous had way too few figs in it (half of this one at 5%) and this one can use a bit more.  Its also a whiter bread than this one which is only 25% whole grain, the previous was 15%.  And the first thing I thought after finishing was to increase the wheat to 40%.  And of course increase the figs up to 15%.  All in all though this was a nice loaf.  Still not as good as Dave Miller's mission loaf but the same flavor profile.

Also continuing on my Volkornbrot with 100% rye and sunflower seeds.  I cut the chocolate malt to see how the flavor changes.  I have the last batch left so I'll be able to taste side by side.  The color is obviously lighter.  I followed the 3 stage detmolder process again and really hit the times and temps the best yet.  But i still have that compressed section at the bottom of the loaf which I really want to get rid of.  I think I may not be doing a long enough final proof.  I may tinker with adding commercial yeast to the final paste to help boost that final fermentation and see if I get rid of that issue.  Otherwise i think I've taken yet another step forward.  It's really an amazing process which with the help of Andy (ananda) and Hamelman's "Bread" has given me a much better understanding of rye in just a few goes at these typesof bread.   

Without further ado:

Fig n Fennel


20% prefermented flour
300 g Ripe White Starter (100% hydration) @ 75-77 deg F
-----------------------------------------------------
412 Malted Artisan Flour (11.5%)
150 Fresh Milled Wheat
 37 Fresh Milled Rye
404 H20
16 Salt
2.25 g Fennel, toasted
15 Vanilla Sugar
90 Dried Figs rough chop
-----------------------------------------------------------
2 loaves
------------------------------------------------------------
Autolyse Flours, h20 and fennel for 1 hour
Add levain, sugar, and salt.
Mix until well combined on low speed (3 minutes)
Turn to medium speed and develop to medium consistency (3 minutes)
Add figs and stir in on speed 1 until well dispersed (1 minute)
Bulk Ferment 2 1/2 hour
Stretch and Folds (2) @ 40 minutes and 80 minuts
Divide @ 700 preshape and rest
Shape to floured bowls and retard immediately (8-12 hours)
Bake 500 with steam for 12 minutes then vented at 460 for 20-25 more.

 

Really don't like that compressed bottom there.  Its bout 40 hours old now.  Tasting will ensue tommorrow

Josh

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golgi70

Made with 35% fresh milled local Hard Red Winter Wheat (Hollis).  I miscalculated with the olives and after pitting came up short but proceeded.  I will post my formula but I'd double this for sure.  The addition of an herb could also be nice but my olives were a mix of three green varieties brined with garlic and oregano.  Had I used enough maybe I wouldn't need any herbs.  I'll find out next time around. 

Olive Levain:                              Makes two large or three smaller loaves                                                                                                                                         

Total Flour       1120

Total H20           813             72.5%

Olives                 150            13.5 %


Levain: 3-4 hours @ 72.5% hydration DDT 78F (20% prefermented flour)
90 Wheat Starter
180 Wheat, fresh milled
118 H20
-------------------------
421
-------------------------
Dough:
200    Wheat
32      Rye
663    Artisan (malted bread flour @ 11.5% protein)
650.   H20
150    Olives, herbed (a mixed variety of garlic oregano green olives)
16      Salt
---------------------------

1711

Total Dough = 2132   3 loaves at 705 or 2 loaves at 1066  

Drain and dry olives on paper towels when you make the levain. 

Autolyse 2 hours

Add levain and mix on speed 1 for 3 minutes 

Add salt and continue mixing on speed 1 until well incorporated. 

Turn to medium speed and devlop dough to medium development.

Add olives and mix until evenly dispersed.

Bulk ferment 2 1/2 hours with stretch and fold at the 30 minute and 1:15 minute mark

Divide, preshape, shape to bowls.  Retard for 8-12 hours

Bake 500 w/steam and turn down to 460 and continue for 20-30 minutes pending size of your loaf. 

 

golgi70's picture
golgi70

As we come upon the last weeks of the market I have now missed a few but next week will be 20. Had all plans set to make an olive bread but the cost of nice olives made me bail on a large batch and simplify.  Maybe had I thought ahead I could get some wholesale prices but I didn't.  So I threw together a formula for a Spelted Sourdough that I'm quite pleased with the results.  The dough is lovely smooth but quite slack and was just super fun to shape.  I also continue on my quest to learn and make 100% ryes which may or may not be going so well.  First batch was simply the worst and its improved since.  I thought I'd make a few pullmans and gift small loaves of this along with the SD.  I should have only made three but I planned on four and accepted that they would be short loaves.  

Last of the tomatoes, beets, cippolini onions, artichokes, daikon radish, goat cheese (pressed ricotta with cumin and fiennel, and queso fresco), new local tuna company, locall olives (which are cut and in my olive bread to bake today), two bags dried figs, cillantro, spinach and brocollli

 

If anyone is interested in the formula I will scale down and post later

Happy Baking

josh

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golgi70

So now that my culture is alive and well I'm starting to play.  Things I've learned.  It's slow, slower than sourdough (I was told this and its true).  It really likes to be warm (78-80)  If much cooler it barely acts at all unlike sour which will just go slower it just won't get going at all.  Second and third builds start to act more like a sweet levain and timings shorten significantly.  As a combo with SD it adds nice structure and oven spring and balances sourness (this is great if desired but if you want sour this will not help).  

Below are both 100% YW breads.  First is a Currant and Fennel which is built off a levain made with the actual yeast water.  The following are baguettes which were a second build from the extra levain.  

fennel and currant crumb.  Maybe coulda used a bit more proofing but the taste and texture were quite nice.

Overall a decent sweet baguette but poor keeping quality and not as good as Sour/IDY.  Next up will be SD YW combo which I have high hopes for.  

Happy Baking All

Josh

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golgi70

Yeast Water is alive and it's time to play.  A big thanks to dabrownman for his simple instructions to get this culture going and maintenance.  I highly suggest a post on this as was explained to me for those who might be interested in making their own culture.  Then it will be an archived easy approach to a natural levain.  My YW is being fed with currants/apples and has a lovely sweet hard cider smell to it.  Since it was so young I decided to do a hybrid with some White Starter as backup and to add a bit of the twang.  So I pre fermented 20% of the flour.  10% was wheat using the YW, the other 10% was my white starter (100% hydration).  I've gotten great feedback on this loaf.  It's quite fantastic actually and would match well with cheese and wine.  Also makes an excellent turkey sandwich and Nut Butter and Jelly. Essentially a classic bread here and I highly suggest this one. 

 

 

YW Levain (if you don't have yeast water this could simply be a wheat sour @ 100% hydration)

These are kept as two seperate levains.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------DDT 78F for 8-12  hours

100 g     Freshly Ground Whole Wheat 

100 g     Yeast Water (again mine is Currant/Apple/Honey)

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

200 g     Mature White Starter (@100% hydation)

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

400 g    Total 

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Dough:  DDT 75F

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

560 g    Central Milling High Country Hi-Protein Flour (13%)

300 g    Freshly Milled Wheat

40 g      Freshly Ground Whole Rye

713.4g  H20

23.6 g    Salt

150  g    Walnuts, toasted

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Total Flour:   1100 g

                              White 660 @ 79%  Hydration  =  521.4

                              Wheat 400 @ 90% Hydration  =  360

                              Rye       40 @ 80% Hydration  =    32

Total H20 913.4 (83% Total Hydration) 

Total Dough 2187 g  (3 loaves at 729 g) 

1)  Autolyse Flour and Water for 1 hour. 

2)  Add Levains and mix to combine well.

3)  Add salt to combine well.

4)  Turn up and devlop to medium (should just start really pullin from bowl but not completely)

5)  Add Walnuts and stir in on low speed until incorporated.

6)  Bulk Ferment for me was 4 1/2 hours with 4 stretch and folds at 40 minutes

7)  Divide, preshape, rest 20-30 minutes

8)  Shape to floured bowls and retard immediately.  

9)  Bake 500 with steam for 13 minutes and then 460 for 20-25 longer rotating as needed.

 

 

golgi70's picture
golgi70

Well we've missed a few markets but I'm back.  And the great news.  The farmer's market will continue through the winter for the first time.  It will obviously be toned down by 75% as there are much fewer folks with product during the winter but a victory for humanity none the less.  I've built of a rye starter over the past couple of weeks and have been feeding it bi-daily and then retarding after letting it sit out for a couple of hours.  it's doing quite well and I opted to put it to use.  Breads made of mostly white flour really get a boost from small amounts of rye so I opted to use a Rye Sour and use 25% rye in the total formula, (all of which is in the pre ferment)  I added .25% cinnamon to the dough to give it a nice hint but not to be the front runner.  I also soaked the raisins in hot water so I can pull some of the sugar into the dough without adding any additional sugar, and added a vanilla bean while they soaked to give the raisins a nice flavor.  I'm pretty happy with the results.  Next time I might up the raisin soak by 50% and puree 1/3 of the raisins into the dough.

 

For 2 loaves

Rye Sour: 6-8 hours

----------------------------------------------------

195 g  Rye Flour, coarse ground

195g  H20

60 g   Mature Rye Starter

---------------------------------------------------

Raisin Soak:

----------------------------------------------------

120 g  Raisins

120g  H20, hot

1/2   Vanilla bean split and scraped

-----------------------------------------------------

Dough:

-------------------------------------------------------

400 g  Bread Flour

200 g  Strong Flour

75  g  Whole Wheat

3 g     Cinnamon

311g  H20

20 g   Salt

-------------------------------------------------------------

1)  Make Rye Sour and let ferment for 6-8 hours

    Soak raisins with hot water and toss in vanilla bean caviar and all and stir up.  Cover and let sit.

2)  1 hour before the Sour is ready drain raisins.  

3)  Autolyse 1 hour:  Rye Sour, water, raisin water, final dough flour, and cinnamon

4)  Add salt and begin mix on speed one to combine well (3 minutes0
     Turn to speed 2 and continue mixing until medium devlopment.

     Add raisins and mix on low until well dispersed.  

5)  Bulk Ferment:  4 hours with 2 stretch and folds at 45 minutes and 1:30

6)  Divide and preshape.  Rest 20 minutes.  

   Shape to bowls and retard overnight. (my dough was a bit cool and would have benefited from 30-60 minutes                                                                  at room temp before retarding)

   Bake straight from retarder at 500 with steam for 13 minutes, then lowered to 480 vented for about 25 more.

   Cool on rack. 

 

Josh

 

golgi70's picture
golgi70

Well got sick this weekend and missed the market bake but I had to feed the starter and decided to take the extra and make 2 builds, 1 wheat and 1 white.  I intended on a whole wheat bread but after looking at my inventory of flour I opted to make a loaf I do at my current job with some improvements.  Since I had both builds I just used them in combo for the one bread.  I wasn't quite sure how well this would turn out as it was only the first build off my starter which hadn't been fed in a few days but I proceeded anyway and with great success.  

golgi70's picture
golgi70

Hello All.  Gettin ready for a storm here in the Pacific Northwest.  Fortunately it was a beautiful morning and bread traded swiftly.  I'm still unsure how I feel about this loaf.  I couldn't really decide what to make this week so Thursday night I figured I'd build a rye starter to work a second build off of and until the last minute I was just gonna make a 40% rye sour.  Couldn't do it.  Had to see what I could add for fun.  Cardamom is where it all started, then the almonds came into play and then the candied citrus (maybe a bad idea????).  Someone mentioned using cinnamon in dough at 1% which I thought would be quite intense.  I used .3% for the cardamom which was quite nice.  I knew to bring this crunchy lean dough together a small amount of sugar would meld flavors.  I used maple syrup cause it was on hand. (honey would be a better choice I think).  Once again the jury is still out on this one.  On its own its certainly not bad but maybe a little odd.  With a smear of butter its very good and with almond butter and honey its a delight.  I'd like to get some cured meats to see how that goes.  I guess I'll start thinkin bout next week now so I don't do another kitchen sink loaf next week. 

Cardamom Toasted Almond Rye

Rye      (37.5%)
White   (58.3%)
Barley  ( 3.3%)
Wheat  ( .9%)

total flour 1200
total h20    924  (77%)

Build 1 (12 hours)

20 Starter
80 Rye
80 H20
-------------------
180

Build 2 (37.5% preferemnted flour)
180 Rye Starter
360 Rye
360 H20
---------------------
900   (4-6 hours)


Final Dough
700 Central mill hi protein
40 Barley Flour
10 Wheat
 4 Cardamom
472 H20
24 Maple Syrup
------------------------
25 Salt
------------------------
120 toasted sliced almonds
15 Candied Orange Peel
15 Candied Lemon Peel.
------------------------
1426

Total Dough: 2326 
3 @ 775 

1)  Mix Levain, H20 (hold back 10%), maple syrup, flours and cardmamom to shaggy dough.  Let rest 30 minutes

2)  Add h20 and salt and mix on speed 1 for 5-8 minutes (until dough is starting to show some signs of gluten development)

3)  turn to speed 2 and mix until dough starts to gather and pull from bowl slightly.  

4)  Add fruit and nuts and mix briefly on speed one just to incorporate. 

5)  Bulk Ferment 3 hours:  Two gentle folds at 1 hour and 2 hour mark.   *** if I were to do this loaf again I think I'd bulk      ferment the dough  and maybe give one fold after an hour.  This will improve the crumb and make shaping much          easier

6)  Divide, rest, shape, and retard.  

7)  Bake 500 with steam for 11 minutes and vented for 25 more rotating as necessary.  

I took less as the lady is out of town and I wouldn't want to waste any food.  Its the tail end of summer veggies into some winter veggies.  Up front are what they call ground cherries.  in the tomatillo family.  sweet and a familiar taste that I just can't place but its reminiscent of something.  Asian pears, walla wallas, butternut squash, some greens, fennel, Butternut squash soup here i come.  

 

Happy Baking

Josh

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golgi70

Spelt Squares
----------------------------------
total flour: 924 (86% spelt, 14% white) with an extra build this can be 100% spelt if desired
total h20: 715 (77% hydration)

Levain: 6-8 hours
60 White Starter (100%)
100 Bread Flour
38 Spelt
138 H20
------------------------------
336 (168 prefermented flour

Dough:
756 g Spelt
547 g h20 (hold back 100 g)
20 g Salt
------------------------------
1323
------------------------------

135 g       toasted cashews
-------------------------------
Total dough = 1794
Divide a @ 445 (this was what I did but too small I think I'd divide to 3 parts @ just shy of 600 next time.) 


1) Mix all but salt and nuts squeezing through fingers to get a nice even dough.
Rest 15 minutes
Add 100 g water and squeeze through until its a smooth soft dough. Add nuts and lightly knead/fold in.
Rest 15 minutes
Slap and fold until resilient rest 5 minutes repeat 2 times (time elapsed 35 minutes)
Rest 30 minutes
Stretch and fold (once from each direction
Rest 30 minutes
Stretch and fold
Rest 30 minutes

Preshape to a rough square by stretching into a rectangle and then give a letter fold.
relax 15 minutes
Now carefully stretch to a rectangle and give a 3 fold and lightly shape to a square. Pinch together seams. Place smooth side down on spelt floured couche and proof 45-60 minutes
turn out to floured peel and dock/score/or leave plain
Bake 500 with steam for 7 minutes and vented for 15-20 more

*  These have a seriously crunchy crust.  I think the loaf would be greatly improved with a bit more size.  

Also I think the presheape should be a tight ball.  Then relax. then stretch and give fold.  This should give some more tension and a better spring in the oven.  All in all its salty and crunchy.  Delish with butter and i bet cheese or even jam.  

I toasted the cashews but maybe not quite enough.  Next time I'll be sure to roast a bit deeper and I think they will permeate the dough with there lovely flavor a bit more.  

I made the levain not exactly sure of my plan besides some spelt.  Had I known I'd add all spelt I think I'd have made the levain with all spelt and maybe done two builds to make this 100% spelt.  

 sorry bad photos 

golgi70's picture
golgi70

 

Always see figs, cherries, cranberries, raisins, currants.  Why not apples.  Hell, why not fresh apples.  I'm from a Jewish family so why not walnuts with apples.  And since we're being so, Why not be it Rye.  And hence Sour Apple.  Pretty delish for a first run.  Only thing I'd do different off the bat would be to lay apples out on a towel for a bit before adding to dough so they don't create a layer of water between the stretch and folds.  It all work itself out in the end but i think the dough would have come together better had I done this.  Oh and I think I'd like to add some cinnamon, not much, but just enough to hint the dough of it.  I'm not sure what ratio this would be but I'll be looking into it. Without further ado.

 

Sour Apple


build 1 (skip if rye starter is already available) (this is enough for a touch extra to build as a rye seed if desired)
-------------------------------------
50 g White Starter
100 g Rye (local stone ground whole rye)
75 g h20

-----------------------------------------

Build 2 (Final Levain @ 78degF 2-4 hours)

------------------------------------------
200 Ripe Rye Starter
200 Rye (local stone ground whole rye)
140 H20
---------------------------------------
540
----------------------------------------
Dough:
----------------------------------------
1000 g Strong White Flour (Giustos Ultimate Perfomrer)
166 g Rye (local stone ground whole rye)
44 g Wheat (local stone ground hard red winter wheat)
770 g H20 (hold back 10%)
75 g honey (mine was raw and infused with cinnamon but as you saw in post not enough cinnamon)
32 g Salt (pink himilayan sea salt)
100 g Walnuts, toasted
125 g Apples, diced 1/2" (the other problem I had was the apples turned out to not be great baking apples and are                                                mushier than I'd like, so get a good crisp baking apple)
----------------------------------------
2297 (final dough)
540   (levain)
----------------------------------------
total dough 2837
makes 4 @ 705 g (25 oz)

1) Fauxtolyse*** all but salt, walnuts, and apples 30 minutes. Bulk starts now (4 hours)                                                     #fauxtolyse***my new word for the act of an autolyse but with more ingredients than just flour and water. 

2) Add salt and squeeze through fingers until well combined. Rsst 15 minutes 

3) slap and fold, rest 15 minutes, repeat
4) add remaining h20 and squeeze through fingers until dough comes back together
5) Add fruit and nuts and fold/knead in lightly. Rest 30 minutes. 
6) 2 s + f @ 30 minutes (rest 1 hour)
7) divide, preshape into a tight ball and relax for 30 minutes. Shape to unlined bowls dusted with rice flour
Proof 2-3 hours and bake or 1 hour and retard overnight.
8) Bake at 500 with steam for 12 mintues. lower to 480 and continue baking vented for 22 minutes until deep
dark color. cool

Happy Sunday

Josh

Trying to score on an apple.  Only had 4 loaves to try with.  Got it good once.  But I think I got the idea now. 

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