The Fresh Loaf

A Community of Amateur Bakers and Artisan Bread Enthusiasts.
nicolesue's picture

Open vs. Close Crumb

May 25, 2010 - 9:15pm -- nicolesue

Hi,

I've made the 'lean dough' recipe from PR's ABED a couple of times. Most of the time, dough often comes out with large open crumbs, except for a loaf I made yesterday. Instead of the usual, the crumbs were close, more like regular bread loaf. Taste wise, the bread was thoroughly cook with no gummy texture at all. All in all, still very good to eat.

May I know what causes the crumbs to open and not? I've been using the same recipe each time. I'm just curious, and would like a better understanding, to help me control the outcome of the bread better next time.

Chausiubao's picture
Chausiubao

First of all, I'd like to say this:

 

 

Now that thats out of the way:

I've been taught that thats a textbook example of the improved mix. There's three mixes; the short mix, the improved mix, and the intensive mix. When you pull a window, the short mix tears easily, the improved mix has characteristic "veins" that run through it, and the intensive mix looks very even and opaque. This is how you can judge the crumb of your finished bread before you even divide the dough.

It'd be an understatement to say that I've learned a thing or two while working at the bakery, truth be told, I learned more in my interview with the owner of the bakery (an interview which was 5 hours on the bench of course,) then I did in the few weeks we spent on bread in school.

I wanted to showcase my bakery's breads and the title I wanted to give the blog was, "the soul of the bakery, its in the formulas" but the truth really doesn't reflect that. Formulas are the backbone of any bakery, but its melodies, subtleties, and nuances are what really define a bakery. We make this dough with three different kinds of levain in it. Thats a really unnecessary thing to do, and personally I have a notion that having the three different cultures all together might hinder the growth of the individual cultures since they'll be competing (a fight that the white levain will have an advantage in!). We create formulas, we calculate water temperatures, use our hands to tell us all the things about the dough that we should ever need to know, and we live bread. Or at least thats how it is meant to be. whether we actually reach (or want to reach) this lofty attitude of bread baking is debatable.

I like to think that as an artisan bakery, we bake bread as it has been made in past decades. This involves small ovens, a single mixer, couches, loading boards or peels, and hand shaping. But ultimately, how feasible and how practical is this arrangement? Bread bakers are the eccentrics in an already quite eccentric field. Moving into the culinary field is almost romanticized in our culture, yet many do it for reasons other then the love of the process. The man hours, the physicality, the odd work schedule, all of it pushes away possible bakers. On the other hand, when people need work, all of that diminishes in significance.

If we were to become a chain bakery (either privately owned or corporate) is this a business model that could be passed from store to store to store? Or are we a fad, living a fast, high octane experience that will ultimately and inevitably implode and collapse in on itself?

We definitely make good product, though there's always better; but is artisan baking a relic of the past or an unrealized future?

 

 Despite the high costs of labor and running an establishment based on perishable food stuffs, we continue to expand and put out good product. And the more I work and throw around thoughts about bread with my colleagues, the more ideas for my own bakery spring spontaneously into my mind.

--Chausiubao

hmcinorganic's picture
hmcinorganic

I watched some of the videos linked to from this site.  cool.  I know from my reading and experience that I tend to have bread that is not "wet" enough.  

Watching this video:  http://www.sourdoughhome.com/stretchandfold.html, I am really amazed that this technique gives well kneaded bread.  What is it about this technique that works?  I don't see how the gluten can develop using this method!  Amazing.

I just made a new starter (pate fermente) for a french baguette, and I attempted to use this technique (http://www.gourmet.com/magazine/video/2008/03/bertinet_sweetdough) instead of my stand mixer to develop the dough.  it was difficult, but it really worked.  neat.

Someone asked for a picture on my last post.  Here is my latest effort.  I was very very pleased with how this one turned out!  I think I need to bake them longer for a deeper crust.  The crumb on this one is very even with teeny holes.  

half whole wheat baguette

Anonymous baker's picture

Hello World!

May 25, 2010 - 5:58pm -- Anonymous baker (not verified)

Hey everybody,

I am kind of a noob at bread baking, but like everybody else here I have a passion for baking... and eating bread! Just wanted to say hello to everybody and ask some questions that will help get me off...

Does anybody know where I might find a reliable source for flours in SoFla, my grocery stores only carry small bags of flours and few varieties at that, I can often burn through a bag in a day!

MichaelH's picture

Crust at Last...........

May 25, 2010 - 1:04pm -- MichaelH

Having struggled with my oven, my stone, steam and burned bottoms for some time, I finally got everything to come together today. The recipe is Vermont Sourdough from Jeffrey Hamelman’s Bread. The only change I made was to add 2 Tbs. raw wheat germ, a practice I adopted from Nancy Silverton. The bread was retarded overnight, having undergone a 1 hour final proof the day before in bannetons. I let them warm up for two hours in the morning, which was a little too much, as they deflated some when scored. Next time I will settle for one hour.

EvaB's picture

Welsh cookies and other things

May 25, 2010 - 11:16am -- EvaB
Forums: 

Ok shall try this again, I spent the past weekend without power for most of it. We had a freak snowstorm which took down all the trees the hydro company hasn't been taking off right of ways etc. We spent from about 8 am on the 22nd to 5:40pm on the 23rd without power. Fortunately I have a gas stove which while I couldn't use the oven (one of those electric start things) I could light the burners and cook.

knud's picture
knud

Hej

Being a newbie I hope I am in the right forum.

When my bread comes out off the oven it has  a nice crispy crust,  after the bread has cooled down the crust goes soft

Any help will be appreciated

take care

Knud

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