Double Pains de Campagne, Olive Levain and a “Hardcore Borodinsky”
One large Boule, proved in a banneton, of just over 1300g, and one of 700g, proved in a brotform.
Olive Levain takes its inspiration from the Hamelman (2004) version on pp. 178 – 179, but with changes sufficient for me to feel happy publishing the formula and method I have devised.
As if Borodinsky isn’t hardcore with an 80:20 Rye: Wheat mix, this is all Dark Rye Flour!
Here’s the detail of the leaven refreshment used for the stiff levain used in the Pain de Campagne and Olive Levain. Bonus of being able to make a couple of Naan breads with the leaven after first build to accompany yesterday’s evening meal of saag dal and aloo gobhi and brinjal curry.
Material | Recipe [grams] |
1. Leaven Build One [Friday; 19:00] | |
Leaven from Stock | 80 [50 flour: 30 water] |
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour | 100 |
Water | 60 |
TOTAL | 240 |
Reserved to make Naan Breads | 210 |
2. Leaven Build Two [Saturday; 14:00] | |
Leaven [from above] | 30 [19 flour: 11 water] |
Organic White Flour | 300 |
Water | 180 |
TOTAL | 510 |
| |
3. Leaven Build Three [Saturday; 20:00] | |
Leaven from above | 510 [319 flour: 191 water] |
Organic White Flour | 300 |
Water | 180 |
TOTAL | 990 |
4. Retarded overnight for use Sunday morning | 110 back to stock |
Leaven in Pain de Campagne | 720 [450 flour: 270 water] |
Leaven in Olive Levain | 160 [100 flour: 60 water] |
- 1. Pain de Campagne
High percentage of pre-fermented flour in a really strong, stiff wheat leaven. Dark Rye added at just over 9% of total flour. Two loaves, scaled as mentioned above.
Material | Formula [% of flour] | Recipe [grams] |
Leaven [see above] | | |
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour | 37.5 | 450 |
Water | 22.5 | 270 |
TOTAL | 60 | 720 |
| | |
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour | 53.33 | 640 |
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour | 9.17 | 110 |
Salt | 1.75 | 21 |
Water | 45.5 | 546 |
TOTAL | 169.75 | 2037 |
% pre-fermented flour | 37.5 | - |
Overall % hydration | 68 | - |
Method:
- Autolyse the 2 flours with the water for half an hour.
- Mix the dough by adding the leaven to the autolyse and developing for 10 minutes. Rest for 10 minutes; add the salt and develop a further 10 minutes.
- Bulk Ferment for 2¼ hours.
- Scale and divide for 2 boules as described above. Shape and place upside down in the banneton and brotform. Retard for 2 hours in the chiller.
- Final proof for 1½ hours.
- Tip the largest loaf out, cut the top and bake with steam in a pre-heated oven [250*C] for 55 minutes. Drop the oven temperature as needed through the bake, ending up around 200*C, depending on your oven. Cool on wires and bake the smaller loaf for 25 minutes again, cut the loaf and utilise steam. Cool on wires.
- 2. Olive Levain
Material | Formula [% of flour] | Recipe [grams] |
Leaven [see above] | | |
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour | 20 | 100 |
Water | 12 | 60 |
TOTAL | 32 | 160 |
| | |
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour | 72 | 360 |
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour | 8 | 40 |
Salt | 1.2 | 6 |
Water | 51 | 255 |
Pitted Black Olives | 25 | 125 |
TOTAL | 189.2 | 946 |
% pre-fermented flour | 20 | - |
Overall % Hydration | 63 | - |
Method:
- Dry the Pitted Olives with paper towel.
- Mix the leaven with all the other ingredients except the olives. Develop for 10 minutes, then rest 10 minutes, develop a further 10 minutes and rest 10 more minutes.
- Chop the olives into the dough with a metal cutter.
- Bulk Proof for 3 hours.
- Shape and prove in a banneton for 2½ hours.
- Tip out the dough piece, cut the top and bake in a pre-heated oven [250°C] using steam, for 45 minutes, dropping the oven temperature to 200°C as the bake progresses.
- Cool on wires.
- 3. “Hardcore Borodinsky”
I have been out of stock of the Bacheldre Dark Rye, so my rye sour was in need of some “tlc” before I could bake with it. I used a 2 stage refreshment process, and incorporated some “altus” as part of the second refreshment. I used some old Borodinsky as the “altus”. This was left overnight for a full 15 hours to ripen.
Material | Recipe [grams] |
1. Rye Sour First Build; Friday 19:00 | |
Rye Sourdough stock | 16 |
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour | 50.25 |
Water | 83.75 |
TOTAL | 150 |
| |
2. Rye Sour Second Build; Saturday 14:30 | |
Rye Sourdough from above | 150 |
“Altus” – Old Bread | 50 |
Soaking Water | 100 |
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour | 200 |
Water | 300 |
TOTAL | 800 |
As usual, I made a “scald” for this loaf the evening before, as follows:
Material | Formula [% of flour] | Recipe [grams] |
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour | 20 | 192 |
Organic Barley Malt Syrup | 4.5 | 43 |
Organic Black Strap Molasses | 6 | 58 |
Coriander freshly ground | 1 | 9.6 |
Salt | 1 | 9.6 |
Boiling Water | 35 | 336 |
TOTAL | 67.5 | 648 |
Method:
- Dissolve the syrups in the boiling water and bring to a rolling boil in a pan
- Crush the Coriander Seeds using a Mortar and Pestle
- Combine spice with salt and flour and pour on the boiling wort.
- Mix to a stiff paste, cover, and cool overnight.
Material | Formula [% of flour] | Recipe [grams] |
1. Rye Sour [as above[ | | |
Dark Rye [plus a little “altus”] | 30 | 288 |
Water | 50 | 480 |
TOTAL | 80 | 768 |
| | |
2. “Scald” [as above] | 67.5 | 648 |
3. Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour | 50 | 480 |
TOTAL | 197.5 | 1896 |
% pre-fermented flour | 30 | - |
Overall % Hydration | 85 | - |
Method:
- Blend the scald into the sourdough.
- Combine this with the remaining flour.
- Bulk ferment for 1 hour
- Prepare a Pullman Pan and drop the shaped paste into the pan.
- Prove for 3 hours until the dough is near the top of the pan.
- Close the lid of the pan and bake in an oven pre-heated to 160°C with generous steam, very gently for 2½ hours.
- Cool on wires.
The production schedule worked well for these loaves, with some retarding for the 2 Pains de Campagne. I woke early, so I did make the Borodinsky at 05:30. It’s a stressful time just now!
Lots of photographs are attached. I apologise that they are indoor shots. The weather here is very poor, with lots of heavy showers, and black skies leaving all our rooms very dark indeed. Just no chance to get outside, despite very occasional glimpses of sunshine!
Very best wishes to all
Andy